Does anyone still carry the kits to either lit up the saucer with more lights or make them rotate? Those are pretty cool looking.
Does anyone still carry the kits to either lit up the saucer with more lights or make them rotate? Those are pretty cool looking.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:Does anyone still carry the kits to either lit up the saucer with more lights or make them rotate? Those are pretty cool looking.
I DIY'd mine, because I preferred the version that the saucers LEDs are in sync with how many saucer light completions you have on the main ship. I just can't remember where the instructions were.
Quoted from wayout440:I DIY'd mine, because I preferred the version that the saucers LEDs are in sync with how many sucer light completions you have on the main ship. I just can't remember where the instructions were.
This would be cool to know
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:This would be cool to know
Found them...here ya' go. It's a great looking mod, because when the LEDs stop rotating you can clearly see how many saucer lights you obtained, and the more saucer lights you earn, the better the mod looks. I didn't assemble the mod exactly as shown with ethernet cable, I happened to have some 15 conductor PVC jacketed wire with a lot of colors, so I just wired discreetly.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=15KTvfMyrrocIQlTCzodlsjBkkz90yzhu
Quoted from wayout440:Found them...here ya' go. It's a great looking mod, because when the LEDs stop rotating you can clearly see how many saucer lights you obtained, and the more saucer lights you earn, the better the mod looks. I didn't assemble the mod exactly as shown with ethernet cable, I happened to have some 15 conductor PVC jacketed wire with a lot of colors, so I just wired discreetly.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=15KTvfMyrrocIQlTCzodlsjBkkz90yzhu
Wow that's a lot of work. Good job.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Wow that's a lot of work. Good job.
Thanks. The painstaking part is building the LEDs into the saucers. I did those one day, then the wiring another day. It is a great mod.
Quoted from wayout440:Thanks. The painstaking part is building the LEDs into the saucers. I did those one day, then the wiring another day. It is a great mod.
I'll bet it's a pain. You should have done it to the chrome saucers that the German company sells. I have them on my game and lit them up but not like you did and the chrome really makes them look great. There are pictures of them up in the picture gallery.
The rfm I'm looking to buy needs a little love. Mostly just a good cleaning. It will need new side art when I can afford it.
The center launch ramp is all bent to hell though. Does someone know where I can order a replacement piece and if it is a hassle to take that area apart? Thanks
Figured posting here was as good as any - do any of the SWEP1 kits exist out there any more and if so what can someone expect to pay for one?
Would like to get this combo back in the house as we enjoyed it quite a bit before but finding kits seems nearly impossible.
Quoted from GCS2000:Figured posting here was as good as any - do any of the SWEP1 kits exist out there any more and if so what can someone expect to pay for one?
Would like to get this combo back in the house as we enjoyed it quite a bit before but finding kits seems nearly impossible.
I saw a kit out there recently, just can't remember where. I think the asking price was something like $1700.
Quoted from GCS2000:Figured posting here was as good as any - do any of the SWEP1 kits exist out there any more and if so what can someone expect to pay for one?
Would like to get this combo back in the house as we enjoyed it quite a bit before but finding kits seems nearly impossible.
I usually see one or two a year go up for sale in the $1000-$1500 range.
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:The rfm I'm looking to buy needs a little love. Mostly just a good cleaning. It will need new side art when I can afford it.
The center launch ramp is all bent to hell though. Does someone know where I can order a replacement piece and if it is a hassle to take that area apart? Thanks
My ramp was cracked when I acquired my RFM. The assembly is very easy to get to and remove. You'll need to drill out the existing rivets and then use a rivet press or a hand rivet clincher (which is what I used) to install the 1/8" tubular rivets.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7RBSZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
Quoted from GCS2000:Thanks everyone guess I have to keep my eyes open and then ultimately decide if SWEP1 is worth 15-1700 to go along with acquiring an RFM.
pssst...
if you ask most people, it's not. unfortunately SWEP1 was developed in a box with no interaction with the rest of the bally/williams team and jpop missed the mark with the shots. (it's mostly a shoot the middle, shoot the middle, shoot the middle... type game)
additionally, when performing the swap from RFM to SWEP1 or back, if you don't have a 2nd rom board and prism board, you have to remove the 2 boards from the computer, separate them carefully and then remove, swap the 10 mask roms and then reassemble everything.
and maybe because jpop was a huge d*+cheb@g, SWEP1 didn't use the same launch button mechanism that RFM did, making it one more item that you need to swap out. why? rumor has it that he received a royalty for the use of his patented silver ball shooter rod plunger from cirqus voltaire
Well we had both games before (RFM and SWEP1 kit) and we liked both games albeit RFM a lot more. Fortunately we had all the items for a straight swap no moving roms etc so it was easier but not a 10 min process of course. We do like the idea of 2 games for the space of 1 though which is partly why we had it in the first place. I'll have to keep my eyes open and decide what its all worth for our small collection (4 pin room)
My lower lane playfield plastic A-23137 is broken and I've searched high and low for it (this part https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-23137).
All pinball stores that even list the part has it as "out of stock" since forever. I know it can be found in the complete plastic reproduction kits, but paying lots of cash for ~25 plastics when I need only one obviously sucks.
I've also checked Ebay/Amazon lots of times and no luck there either.
So, is there someone that have that plastic lying around, either used or new or even a bit scratched, doesn't matter as long as the plastic isn't broken. If so please PM me and I'm sure we can work something out. I have the black spacers that sits below it so it's really only the plastic itself that's needed.
Thanks
Quoted from GCS2000:Thanks everyone guess I have to keep my eyes open and then ultimately decide if SWEP1 is worth 15-1700 to go along with acquiring an RFM.
GCS2000 come play our RFM at The Richmond Pinball Collective in the meantime
Quoted from Clytor:gcs2000 come play our RFM at The Richmond Pinball Collective in the meantime
I have been meaning to get there for I don't know how long. I really need to stop by some time.
Can someone tell me the height of this machine? The flyer says 73" but that seems awfully low compared to pics Ive seen of it next to other machines. Searched the thread and cant seem to find anything. Thanks.
Having some issues with my WG monitor.
After installing the Ultimarc video amp. The red was gone. If I wiggle the molex connector on the chassis, red comes back to life. I did either break the molex connector or just have a cold solder connection. The connector has probably never been removed. It was really tight to get off.
I will have to pull out the chassis anyway in order to reflow solder on this molex connector. So I am going to install a cap kit wich is probably a good idea. The monitor was working fine. But I don’t want to mess around with it to often. So I just need to pull out the chassis once. I want to keep the CRT as long as possible. I don’t like TFT panels.
My question. Is it possible to get the chassis out. Without having to remove the entire monitor from the game? I don’t want to break anything...
I did already discharge the tube. I don’t want to kill myself
I bought a little NOS item recently!
focUrTIBTkGGCg9zXtRhZQ (resized).jpg
I have some NOS items to sell that i won't need. Contact me via pm for info
I have the following to sell:
1 x NOS SWEP1 cabinet decal set
1 x NOS SWEP1 rom card
1 x NOS SWEP1 manual
1 x NOS SWEP1 translite
IMG_3446 (resized).JPGIMG_3445 (resized).JPGfullsizeoutput_d20 (resized).jpegIMG_3442 (resized).JPGfullsizeoutput_d1e (resized).jpegfullsizeoutput_d1c (resized).jpegfullsizeoutput_d1a (resized).jpegfullsizeoutput_d14 (resized).jpegfullsizeoutput_d18 (resized).jpegfullsizeoutput_d16 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Midway-Man:Having some issues with my WG monitor.
After installing the Ultimarc video amp. The red was gone. If I wiggle the molex connector on the chassis, red comes back to life. I did either break the molex connector or just have a cold solder connection. The connector has probably never been removed. It was really tight to get off.
I will have to pull out the chassis anyway in order to reflow solder on this molex connector. So I am going to install a cap kit wich is probably a good idea. The monitor was working fine. But I don’t want to mess around with it to often. So I just need to pull out the chassis once. I want to keep the CRT as long as possible. I don’t like TFT panels.
My question. Is it possible to get the chassis out. Without having to remove the entire monitor from the game? I don’t want to break anything...
I did already discharge the tube. I don’t want to kill myself
I'm sorry I don't know the answer for but it did remind me of the tube and chassis swap I did on mine. PSA- A Happ Vision Pro 19" tube and chassis will bolt right on to the original WG frame.
Quoted from applejuice:I bought a little NOS item recently!
[quoted image]
I have some NOS items to sell that i won't need. Contact me via pm for info
I have the following to sell:
1 x NOS SWEP1 cabinet decal set
1 x NOS SWEP1 rom card
1 x NOS SWEP1 manual
1 x NOS SWEP1 translite
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow that's quite the find.
Quoted from robotron911:Good luck. I posted the same thing six months ago and haven't heard a peep. The manufacturer was going to see if they could do another run, but haven't been able to locate some of the materials.
No longer in the hunt. I found a new, in-the-box topper! Yeah!!!!
Quoted from robotron911:No longer in the hunt. I found a new, in-the-box topper! Yeah!!!!
Nice score! I'm starting to look myself.
SWEP1 is repetitive but in my opinion maybe that is what it was supposed to be ? Still have fun with it either way.
Quoted from applejuice:I bought a little NOS item recently!
[quoted image]
I have some NOS items to sell that i won't need. Contact me via pm for info
I have the following to sell:
1 x NOS SWEP1 cabinet decal set
1 x NOS SWEP1 rom card
1 x NOS SWEP1 manual
1 x NOS SWEP1 translite
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Does your recent purchase mean that we can look forward to some new code for this title applejuice ?
Quoted from Midway-Man:My question. Is it possible to get the chassis out. Without having to remove the entire monitor from the game? I don’t want to break anything...
I did already discharge the tube. I don’t want to kill myself
Yes you can remove the chassis while keeping the CRT tube in the machine. There will be a couple of plugs to remove (they should all have connector plugs unless it has been previously fiddled with), being the chassis 110V power, the RGBSyncGND plug and the neck board from the CRT itself. Removing the neck board has to be done carefully so you don't damage the pins on the end of the CRT neck so if you're unsure of the method i would recommend googling how this is done. And i always discharge again before removing the anode cap, even if you have already discharged previously, always better to be sure when dealing with those high voltages. I can't give you a major run down on the chassis removal cause it's been a long time since i have done this on my RFM and i no longer have this machine in my collection. I still say CRT is the way to go with this machine when and wherever it is possible
EDIT : There may also be a ground plug with 1 pin that goes to the neck board, other side attaches to the degauss wire section of the CRT. (Again, i can't recall if there was one on my machine's CRT tube but a lot of CRT tubes do have this)
Quoted from Mancave:Yes you can remove the chassis while keeping the CRT tube in the machine. There will be a couple of plugs to remove (they should all have connector plugs unless it has been previously fiddled with), being the chassis 110V power, the RGBSyncGND plug and the neck board from the CRT itself. Removing the neck board has to be done carefully so you don't damage the pins on the end of the CRT neck so if you're unsure of the method i would recommend googling how this is done. And i always discharge again before removing the anode cap, even if you have already discharged previously, always better to be sure when dealing with those high voltages. I can't give you a major run down on the chassis removal cause it's been a long time since i have done this on my RFM and i no longer have this machine in my collection. I still say CRT is the way to go with this machine when and wherever it is possible
EDIT : There may also be a ground plug with 1 pin that goes to the neck board, other side attaches to the degauss wire section of the CRT. (Again, i can't recall if there was one on my machine's CRT tube but a lot of CRT tubes do have this)
THX, the new caps have arrived today. So I am going to remove the chassis today. I did discharge multiple times yesterday. It’s incredible how the tube does recharge slightly even after unplugging the anode. I have watched JohnsArcade many times, so removing the neck board shouldn’t be to hard.
yep, those large capacitors do their job very well at storing large amounts of energy (which is why you need to be very careful. electricity is very unforgiving
I've discharged the bigger capacitors on an arcade power chassis before by [carefully] grounding both terminals using a screwdriver. the bang it created was huge (think M80 firecracker loudness). additionally, the arc of electricity actually put a small pit mark in the metal shaft of the screwdriver
Quoted from applejuice:What do we have here then
[quoted image]
mmhh, can't wait.
any estimated release?
I'm currently redoing my rfm.
Hi all. I own a swep1 now and was wondering if it’s still possible to buy swappble rfm playfields and Roms? It would be cool to have both games.
Quoted from paynemic:Hi all. I own a swep1 now and was wondering if it’s still possible to buy swappble rfm playfields and Roms? It would be cool to have both games.
they never made a swap kit for rfm as it was the first game and assumed that owners of rfm would buy the swep1 kits
Quoted from BENETNATH:just pull gently and firmly, a bit left to right swing and it will go
The switch part he's talking about then you can remove the nut. You feel like you're going to break it but then it just comes off
applejuice : i'm done with the cleaning part, ready for shaking this beauty !
IMG_20190310_205719 (resized).jpgQuoted from BENETNATH:applejuice : i'm done with the cleaning part, ready for shaking this beauty ![quoted image]
That's a beauty..
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:I picked up some PUB cards and will be updating them to 2.0 soon.
Would you mind sharing the process for updating PUB cards? I can't seem to track down the info for it.
Quoted from robotron911:Where did you find PUB cards? I've had no luck and I'd like to update my RFM.
Overseas
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