Would someone be willing to share v1.9? Thanks

Would love to have a copy too.

Revenge From Mars - Revision History

Version: 1.9 - 21 November, 2017
XINA Version: 1.22
(Changes From 1.80)

This version doesn't need 8MB of system memory anymore!
Language translations.
Tributes to Joe Dillon reactivated.
Maybe some other stuff like unused animations, sounds,...
Changed blinking attractmode lightshow with some prettier choreography.

Version: 1.8 - 23 April, 2006
XINA Version: 1.21
(Changes From 1.70)

This version requires 8MB of system memory.

Version: 1.7 - 16 April, 2006
XINA Version: 1.20
(Changes From 1.60)

This version includes JTS.

...

Can anyone show images or better a vid of 1.9 added/changed graphics and attract mode? Any way to add them to existing nucore, just the updated 1.9 roms? Thanks.

Does nucore check the checksum of the update files? if not then you should be able to just copy in the 1.9 update files.

Hey guys, I've just posted a thread about an issue I have.
Any idea anyone??
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revenge-from-mars-won-t-boot-after-little-mistake

I am finishing up cleaning a decent players RFM, getting ready to reassemble. I was thinking about swapping out a lot of the red plastic posts for clear, and switch to glow Titan rubber, maybe lighten it up a bit.

I'm not terribly familiar with this form factor... are the flippers aligned with the hole above the flips on this game rather than the bottom? Have any of you all switched to lightning flippers on this one? Seems like they might fit the shots better, or maybe I just need a different alignment on my flippers.

Needs new T-molding, but the original red looks so nice I will probably stick with that for the next color.

I never use the holes for flipper alignment. I always line up the flipper top edges with the inlane rails with a straight edge, for a perfect flow from rail to flipper with no bounce.

Hey guys

Any advice on mounting a LCD inside of a RFM? I bought the Great Lakes kit, but the brackets are not tall enough to reach from the back of the monitor to the wood due to the thickness of my 2007 FPb 20" Dell 4:3 monitor.

Thanks!
MacJedi

Hey everyone,

I have issues with optos : the one in the Stroke of Luck, and the one right behind it, in the ejector.
I usually use my phone camera to check if there's actually a beam, but I can't see anything on this pin (even on those who seem to be working).

Is there anything special with them optos??

Standard infra red optos, I believe. Compare them to the ones in the trough.

Ok. So, one was down. Changed it, and now it's working.

But the thing is :

the opto for the Right Popper is recognized in the Switches Test (strangely, in the chart BUT not on the playfield plan (?) )
but during the game, when a ball is on it, it just doesn't recognize anything and doesn't launch the ball.

Also, when closing the door, the coil keeps knocking, as if there was a ball it wants to eject...

Any idea?

Alright. I'm stuck, and it's killing me.
Could someone give me a glimpse of that Switch Test for a machine that works fine, pretty pleaaaaase ?!

LED translite upgrade. I bought a bunch of these LED strips that are mounted in a metal track from eBay many moons ago for my arcade games. Keeping the UV away from my artwork on my games is always a must. So I tapped of the 12V supply from the PC with a little molex connector and mounted it above the PC. I can slide the PC out with no issues. Pictures are a little blown out just due to LED's not being camera friendly but in person looks amazing. I've got a little splash around the monitor from them but I'm just going to get some thick black cardboard from a craft store and line the front of it. These LED's strips were like $3 bucks each shipped on eBay. Slight reflection on the PF but does not effect game play.

30507758377_6b3df474d3_k (resized).jpg

44533419215_0178e58ea3_k (resized).jpg

45396377972_1ff74f967f_k (resized).jpg

Tech Question: If I power up my RFM the PC kicks on, I get the menu on the monitor, and about 2 seconds after it boots the table, boom goes dead. I turn the power supply switch off on the PC, wait a few seconds and turn it on and I get the same thing again. It will do this maybe 4 or 5 times and then it will boot and stay booted. I took the PC out and powered it on it's own and it will come on and run no issues. I replaced the monitor and reseated all connectors. Anyone run into this issue? Next up I'm going to cap the main board in the bottom of the machine as it sure seems like a cap issue. I'm not sure on the date for the PC power supply but it literally looks brand new. Thanks!

I have seen PC MB's do odd stuff with weak bios battery and poor PSU's can also do odd stuff as well.

I keep thinking this is something with the PC but running it on the bench with no issues seemed odd. Non of the caps on the MB look bulged. The game itself looks so clean inside it don't look like it had much use. Seems like someone before me replaced the PC power supply thinking that was the issue. I ordered a new fan for the CPU as it's somewhat loud like they typically were but I'll keep poking around.

40902031820_db13baa3b1_k (resized).jpg

I don't really want to rain on your parade... but White LEDs can actually be UV emitters.
*some* White LEDs work by producing UV light which is then converted to white by Phosphors in the LED... Just like it's done on CFL tubes.
I'm not sure most White LED vendors actually show the UV present in the spectrum; so it's difficult to prove that converting from CFL to WhiteLEDs is better or worse on the art.

Here's an article from a quick Google Search:
http://www.premierltg.com/do-led-lights-produce-uv-led-tanning-beds/

So, I guess not...

I just got a rfm and everything was working fine on it. I changed out some bulbs on it and I fired it back up and I just get a white screen. Any help would be appreciated.

I booted it up again a couple of hour later and no problems. I wonder why it did that though

It is 18 years old.

Is it updated ?
What's the version running on it?

Go through the basics. Make sure both CPU fan and power supply fans are running flawlessly. Check voltages on the power supply. If it is the original, chances are it needs replaced. I've done all of that and more, and once in a blue moon, rarely, if the game has not been played in a long time it will require a second boot up. I've got basically all original and CRT, so chalk it up to age. I also have a pinbox sitting in storage.

1.5 is that the latest?

1.5 or 1.6 was the latest official release. I believe there is a 1.8 or 1.9 version that supports an online high score submission

I got one of the high scores in the top five a few days ago and Martian champion. It showed my name in the top five for a couple of days. Today when I went to play a game I was no longer in the high scores or Martian champion. Any ideas why it only saved my score for a few days?

That’s pretty close to what I did. Instead of clear posts, I used the “fluorescent green” posts. It does lighten it up a bit more. The glow in the dark rubbers from Titan look nice, but don’t expect a lot of “glow”

C656A85E-75EE-4F68-A7B7-DB3CA6AC01B2 (resized).jpeg

D2C2EF62-9AC6-4FA9-A508-EE0689B05379 (resized).jpeg

That looks very good!

I made a bit more progress on assembling today, I may finish tomorrow.

2 (resized).jpg
1 (resized).jpg

Do you have a black light over the game and play in the dark?

Not sure if this is a dumb question or not, but should I be able to plug headphones into Out on the audio board on my RFM?

I’ve plugged headphones in previously to the board when trying to isolate a speaker him and received no sound.

I'd try updating to 1.6 if I were you. It couldn't do no harm, and probably the opposite.
But I'm no expert at all...

What are you plugging into? Since the game is setup to run the program off the Prism, I would assume that any "standard" jacks may not be working, they would need to be controlled with a standard operating system and drivers. If you went to attach your headphones directly to the amplifier output to the speakers, your headphones may have a different impedence, perhaps.

Plugging standard headphones into the Out jack on the audio board.

I don't think Pin2K uses the computer sound card. There is an audio amplifier board in the computer case, to the right if I recall correctly and I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a headphone jack.

Not likely used in P2K.

DC2 is on the PCI card on board SB16 not in use.

Welcome !
Have fun !

If they haven't been unscrewed in years, they will be very tight.

You need to use a pair of Allen keys to loosen them--one on the bolt inside the cab, one on the bolt on the outside.

I like to use a set with handle grips instead of L-shaped metal ones. There's less of a chance of hitting something if the key or bolt slips.

Welcome to the club, sounds like you have some work ahead of you. Have fun.

This in itself seems a bit suspicious. It isn't necessary to cut the fly back wire to remove the chassis from the machine. I'm just wondering if the fly back wire was cut because the fly back itself was toast? I've seen this done before as a preventive measure so other people don't fire them up and potentially set stuff alight. I could be wrong about this, but once cut it's not a simple matter of re-soldering the wire back together due to the high voltages.

I'm one of those owners that are missing the PF spotlights on the two slingshots and as the actual games is rather dark I want to add them myself. The problem is that I haven't found any really good topics on where to solder the lamp wires.

I've done lots of searches and googling and the closest thing I found was this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revenge-from-mars-spotlights-adding-to-german-machine
Unfortunately the thread end without the posting of accurate pics on where to solder those wires. I know the actual thread above "kind of" describes where to solder but in fear of doing something wrong I much rather want a pic or two showing the spots rather than guessing from a text description.

I already own the needed extra hex-posts and the spotlights, the only thing I'm missing is the knowledge where to connect them.

So, can someone here that actually have these two spotlights mounted please take a few good pics below their PF so I (and others) can see where the cables should go?

Thanks.

These lights have actual plugs on them. Do you should have two spare plugs dangling under your playfield of which your spot lights would plug into

The early RFM pins didn't have those spotlights at all, so no, my wire-harness doesn't have any unused plugs or cables with "loose ends" dangling anywhere. If it was that simple I wouldn't have asked in the first place. I bought the spotlights that I want to add a few weeks ago, completely separate from the rest of the game and they are not something that was mounted on it in the first place.

So, anyone care to trace their spotlight cables to where they are attached and take a few pics below their playfields?

Didn't know some didn't have spotlights. I thought maybe you were new to this game sorry

Early run games don’t have spots or the loom plugs to connect them.

Can someone get me a closeup photo of the Audio connector from the original amp? I'd like to create an adapter to hook it up to a new amp without cutting the harness.

I believe it's a standard PCI-E connector, butI want to be sure. Thanks!

41lETeSCT9L (resized).jpg