(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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#2101 1 year ago

I recently sold my RFM but have a few extra parts for sale.

I have a brand new sheet of pin2k glass. I paid $150 for it from Rob Anthony at MGC a few years back and it still has the protective coating on it. Sold the game and the new buyer didn't want to buy it with the game. Pickup only in Black Earth, WI which is just outside Madison. $150 firm.

I also have a Dell 20" 2007fpb 4:3 LCD screen that is the perfect size for a CRT to LCD conversion on an RFM or SWE1. Preferable to widescreen as it doesn't stretch the image. $50. Pickup only.

Added 18 months ago:

Glass is sold pending pickup

#2102 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Cheers Paul, yeah i'll still be around mate and quite likely i will regret the decision to sell this particular pin, i've had a lot of fun with it over the years. I've always wanted to experience buying a NIB machine, only ever had 2nd hand B/W and Sterns and the timing seems about right to achieve this. I guess part of my reasoning is that if i decide i'm not keen on IMDN further down the track then i will be able to trade back for possibly 2 good B/W's, having already at least played the Pro i kinda doubt that but hey, the future is the future I will definitely still hover around the club and if i feel i can add anything relevant i may still pipe up but most likely it's just a back seat role. As you know there is a wealth of knowledge in most club threads and a sense of community spirit to help out your fellow machine owners that is sometimes lacking in other threads.

Your gonna really dig the NIB experience, I had one, Mustang Pro. Had to come in the front door, through the kitchen, disconnect the gas stove and move it out of the way to make the turn to go down the basement and unbox it.

#2103 1 year ago

Anyone have a extra set of the posts that bolt through the head and sit on the cabinet rails? One I picked up was missing both and the bolts.

Or anyone know where to get these?

#2104 1 year ago
Quoted from brmorr:

Anyone have a extra set of the posts that bolt through the head and sit on the cabinet rails? One I picked up was missing both and the bolts.
Or anyone know where to get these?

it took me a while to find these, since they are not shown in the manual, but are listed on page 2-4
02-4352-2 - pivot bushing

4700-00111-00 - fw .390 x .875 .062 washer

also, they are not associated with RFM or SWEP1 on marco's website

pivot bushing - cabinet t-nut
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352

they show that it matches up with this bolt
3/8-16 x 3/4" bolt
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4322-01139-12B

however, if I remember correctly, I thought that both RFM and SWEP1 used another pivot bushing that was male threaded with a slightly smaller allen head (but it's been awhile since I looked at mine

I remember having to use 2 different sized allen wrenches to cinch them up and that the way they were manufactured, you couldn't over tighten each pair (the inner bottomed out with just enough space for the nylon washer

the nylon washer (4700-00111-00)
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/washer-flat-390-x-875-x-062-black/

#2105 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

however, if I remember correctly, I thought that both RFM and SWEP1 used another pivot bushing that was male threaded with a slightly smaller allen head (but it's been awhile since I looked at mine

That's correct. Both the pivot bushing and the bolt have allen key heads.

#2106 1 year ago

Now that I look at mine, the pivot busing you linked too looks too short.

20180702184358546 (resized).jpg20180702184404895 (resized).jpg
#2107 1 year ago

Not those, the little post that sits on the rail, see attached. Its the one little thing on each side sitting on the rail..

pasted_image (resized).png
#2108 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

it took me a while to find these, since they are not shown in the manual, but are listed on page 2-4
02-4352-2 - pivot bushing
4700-00111-00 - fw .390 x .875 .062 washer
also, they are not associated with RFM or SWEP1 on marco's website
pivot bushing - cabinet t-nut
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352
they show that it matches up with this bolt
3/8-16 x 3/4" bolt
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4322-01139-12B
however, if I remember correctly, I thought that both RFM and SWEP1 used another pivot bushing that was male threaded with a slightly smaller allen head (but it's been awhile since I looked at mine
I remember having to use 2 different sized allen wrenches to cinch them up and that the way they were manufactured, you couldn't over tighten each pair (the inner bottomed out with just enough space for the nylon washer
the nylon washer (4700-00111-00)
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/washer-flat-390-x-875-x-062-black/

Reason they don'tdo up or shouldn't do up was from a sited pinball perspective. If they were tight anyone could bring an allen key and in theory remove the headbox. Being loose, the bolt would spin freely

#2109 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Now that I look at mine, the pivot busing you linked too looks too short.

they definitely call out the -2 part in the manual, but based on your photo its more like the -3 part
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352-3

#2110 1 year ago

I will be cleaning up a RFM. If anyone has extra laying around I'd be interested to buy head decals or playfield plastics. I've also got some plastics to trade from games in my history.

#2111 1 year ago

I’m in the club! My first two pins were an EM (OXO) and a Gottlieb Sys1 (Sinbad, yearlong resto/rehab project) but I’ve been keen for a more modern machine.

I also tend to be very particular about the kind of theme I would want in a modern Pin, and price was always going to be an issue, so I didn’t realistically expect to get a modern pin for a few years.

Well, an RFM went up on CL two weeks ago, and I could hardly resist, especially at $2500, which seems more than reasonable.

Other than an issue with the coin door interlock switch requiring replacement, overall the machine is running and is a blast!

Seriously, this is a LOT of fun. And funny as anything! Wow!

Here’s some maintenance or replacement checks I’ll be working on (and maybe posting questions about over the next few weeks):

Left flipper gets stuck in “up” position. Need to investigate the issue some more, but I’ve already decided that the flippers will need to be rebuilt and I’ll also add new as this appears to be all original and probably well overdue!

Replace all the PF rubbers. They are all dirty and dry. I’m going to go with the flow in the darks from Titan Pinball. I used these on my OXO and I think they will look even better on RFM

Wax playfield (which appears to be in excellent shape)

Replace all balls with new.

Replace lockdown bar. It appears as if someone was doing handstands on the current one as the right side of this one is really bent to hell, although works fine. If anyone wants a used/bent lockdown for price of shipping, PM me and it’s yours once I get my new one.

Replace ramp flap. Mine is really ragged and worn.

Replace CPU fan. Maybe need to replace my power supply, but I think this RFM might already have a new one. Need to check the model numbers on original power supply to confirm (the reason I suspect this is that PS case screws all have stripped heads, which seems like a clue that it’s been removed at least a couple times, and I don’t know if many reasons anyone would do that except to replace it, right?)

Eventually I need to replace the drop target cushions. Nearly all of mine are fairly worn out.

The plastic up on the scoop is broken. While there seem to be a lot places to get complete plastic sets, most of the single piece options I found are out of stock.

Okay, a couple of questions came up during my overall inspection here at home:

Motherboard capacitors: I breathed a huge sigh of relief once I saw that mine appear to be in good shape. They’re a different manufacturer than the TAYEH brand that are noted as being bad over on Pinwiki. Mine appear to be HERMEI caps. Any thoughts on this manufacturer?

I’m not sure if the flipper coils need replacement. There appears to be masking tape on the end of one. That’s interesting to me! Any ideas on why that would be done? They also have blue wrappers with different marks. The right flipper has the WMS logo while the left is another brand (CMS Torino Italy, also with the tape). They both have correct 50v and coil numbers.

That’s where I’m at today. Let me know if you think I’m missing anything! I’m only about halfway through this looong thread, so apologies if I have questions already answers. Thanks I’m advance for any tips!

35073F73-2872-481D-9817-104C2B8DA561 (resized).jpeg7D4ED6B9-458E-4693-AA6B-681BA0F55D3E (resized).jpeg
#2112 1 year ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

I’m in the club! My first two pins were an EM (OXO) and a Gottlieb Sys1 (Sinbad, yearlong resto/rehab project) but I’ve been keen for a more modern machine.
I also tend to be very particular about the kind of theme I would want in a modern Pin, and price was always going to be an issue, so I didn’t realistically expect to get a modern pin for a few years.
Well, an RFM went up on CL two weeks ago, and I could hardly resist, especially at $2500, which seems more than reasonable.
Other than an issue with the coin door interlock switch requiring replacement, overall the machine is running and is a blast!
Seriously, this is a LOT of fun. And funny as anything! Wow!
Here’s some maintenance or replacement checks I’ll be working on (and maybe posting questions about over the next few weeks):
Left flipper gets stuck in “up” position. Need to investigate the issue some more, but I’ve already decided that the flippers will need to be rebuilt and I’ll also add new as this appears to be all original and probably well overdue!
Replace all the PF rubbers. They are all dirty and dry. I’m going to go with the flow in the darks from Titan Pinball. I used these on my OXO and I think they will look even better on RFM
Wax playfield (which appears to be in excellent shape)
Replace all balls with new.
Replace lockdown bar. It appears as if someone was doing handstands on the current one as the right side of this one is really bent to hell, although works fine. If anyone wants a used/bent lockdown for price of shipping, PM me and it’s yours once I get my new one.
Replace ramp flap. Mine is really ragged and worn.
Replace CPU fan. Maybe need to replace my power supply, but I think this RFM might already have a new one. Need to check the model numbers on original power supply to confirm (the reason I suspect this is that PS case screws all have stripped heads, which seems like a clue that it’s been removed at least a couple times, and I don’t know if many reasons anyone would do that except to replace it, right?)
Eventually I need to replace the drop target cushions. Nearly all of mine are fairly worn out.
The plastic up on the scoop is broken. While there seem to be a lot places to get complete plastic sets, most of the single piece options I found are out of stock.
Okay, a couple of questions came up during my overall inspection here at home:
Motherboard capacitors: I breathed a huge sigh of relief once I saw that mine appear to be in good shape. They’re a different manufacturer than the TAYEH brand that are noted as being bad over on Pinwiki. Mine appear to be HERMEI caps. Any thoughts on this manufacturer?
I’m not sure if the flipper coils need replacement. There appears to be masking tape on the end of one. That’s interesting to me! Any ideas on why that would be done? They also have blue wrappers with different marks. The right flipper has the WMS logo while the left is another brand (CMS Torino Italy, also with the tape). They both have correct 50v and coil numbers.
That’s where I’m at today. Let me know if you think I’m missing anything! I’m only about halfway through this looong thread, so apologies if I have questions already answers. Thanks I’m advance for any tips!

Welcome to the club, sounds like you got a good deal. How are the cab and bb decals?

#2113 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Welcome to the club, sounds like you got a good deal. How are the cab and bb decals?

From a distance, they are fine, but when you look closely, it looks like someone took a broadsword to it as there are a few long 'cuts', which some helpful fellow filled in with black paint! Paint under the legs is really rough (I need to get those leg protectors), but the decals all look good and it presents really well. Next to my other machines, you don't see any of the damage.

Funny thing i noticed as I went through bookkeeping is that the credits are all numerated in Deutschmarks. LOL.

#2114 1 year ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

Paint under the legs is really rough (I need to get those leg protectors),

Get the small metal ones then put my red Leg Lights on.

IMG_0507 (resized).JPG
#2115 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Get the small metal ones then put my red Leg Lights on.

Whoa! That looks cool!

#2116 1 year ago

My cat really likes the extra space this form factor provides.
20180701_173111 (resized).jpg

#2118 1 year ago
Quoted from MMP:

My cat really likes the extra space this form factor provides.

Funny, today I noticed my cat gave up my Dragons Lair cabinet for RFM.

Wish she would perch on her cat tree instead of my games.

20180707_205919 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#2120 1 year ago

No idea how long the video amp has been sitting in my parts drawer, but I finally installed it today. Seems much Ultimarc 3000 video card and choice of video cable were lucky as the amp worked without the 5v mod. I had wondered if the Ultimarc video card was producing 5v video signal already, but clearly not.

The difference after I installed the amp is really noticable. The best way to describe it is that the picture with the lights on in the room are as bright as they were when the lights were off prior. With the lights off now, it's crazy.

#2121 1 year ago

I agree, and I think the video amp is the single best mod available for RFM. It's fairly inexpensive and the video looks incredibly more bright and easier to see details you may have never noticed before.

#2122 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I agree, and I think the video amp is the single best mod available for RFM. It's fairly inexpensive and the video looks incredibly more bright and easier to see details you may have never noticed before.

I think replacing the audio amp is a close second (bang for buck). I installed a Lepai 168 in there and, even with the stock speakers, the sound difference is astounding.

#2123 1 year ago
Quoted from Mocean:

The difference after I installed the amp is really noticable. The best way to describe it is that the picture with the lights on in the room are as bright as they were when the lights were off prior. With the lights off now, it's crazy.

Make sure you go back and fine tune the monitors brightness/contrast after installing the video amp. Just in case you didn't. It's one thing to have a bright picture, but it can be a bit too much and you can knock it back a little if you play with the lights off.

Quoted from Mocean:

I think replacing the audio amp is a close second (bang for buck). I installed a Lepai 168 in there and, even with the stock speakers, the sound difference is astounding.

I think the stock sound is incredible and see no need to ever upgrade it. Blows me away every time I play it.

#2124 1 year ago

I now have constant static pulsing through my rfm speakers. If I disconnect from the pc it stops (obviously).
All pc connections seem to be fine and seated correctly.
Sound comes through fine, just a constant speaker static pulse hum that doesn’t change with volume
Could my sound card have an issue?

#2125 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I now have constant static pulsing through my rfm speakers. If I disconnect from the pc it stops (obviously).
All pc connections seem to be fine and seated correctly.
Sound comes through fine, just a constant speaker static pulse hum that doesn’t change with volume
Could my sound card have an issue?

Try unplugging your translight flourescent lamp. Might not be it, but I had some pretty crazy buzzing and distortion as mine began to die.

You could also get a ground loop isolator and see if that helps. amazon.com link »

Could be neither of these and a leaky capacitor on the amp (it's inside the PC case). Give it a look. If you don't want to fix it you could remove it and the Lepai 168H is a bit of an upgrade.

#2126 1 year ago

I replaced the computer power supply due to its fan failing and it has occurred since doing that today.

#2127 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I replaced the computer power supply due to its fan failing and it has occurred since doing that today.

Okay. Double check the capacitors on the sound board amp, and if they look okay I think you should try the ground loop isolator. They have made a word of difference for me in a number of applications.

#2128 1 year ago
Quoted from Mocean:

Try unplugging your translight flourescent lamp. Might not be it, but I had some pretty crazy buzzing and distortion as mine began to die.
You could also get a ground loop isolator and see if that helps. amazon.com link »
Could be neither of these and a leaky capacitor on the amp (it's inside the PC case). Give it a look. If you don't want to fix it you could remove it and the Lepai 168H is a bit of an upgrade.

Disconnected the fluro. Took the pc out again, reseated all cables. Checked sound board caps, look fine. Same issue. Can gently place the audio connector back into the sound card outside the of and the distortion is less evident. Only comes through front speakers not cabinet.

Static starts once the game goes through boot and starts attract
Mode

#2129 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I replaced the computer power supply due to its fan failing and it has occurred since doing that today.

You could have installed a defective or inferior quality supply.

#2130 1 year ago

Highly doubt that as it’s a standard power supply for a pc

#2131 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Highly doubt that as it’s a standard power supply for a pc

Inferior with dirty ground is very possible. More to the point, it worked before you replaced it, so it's a good place to start. You might also ensure that the audio cable is not running along/across the high voltage power wires (green and white).

If you don't want to try a different power supply, try the ground loop isolator. It's the cheapest thing to buy to try.

#2132 1 year ago

Where would I connect the ground loop isolator for the audio? They are built with headphone jacks and the audio amp doesn’t use that

#2133 1 year ago
Quoted from Mocean:

More to the point, it worked before you replaced it, so it's a good place to start.

Definitely suspect, as it was the last thing touched...at least check the DC power rails and measure the AC ripple, to help rule out a problem there. It's always a good idea to check a PSU before installing it in a game.
Since it's never worked with the new supply, it can't be completely ruled out at this stage.

Check your cables thoroughly as well, you've had to unplug stuff and might have a poor connection in the cabling. Otherwise, it could be purely coincidental.

1 week later
#2134 1 year ago

“Revengers Assemble!”

I have a simple but perplexing question.

I’m about ready to install my cliffy’s protector, but I’m not sure if I need to remove a metal hole protector that’s already there?

In fact, is that original? Or someone’s home job? Could be a metal bracket from Home Depot? The fit is not good!

Thanks! I want to get this back together and play with my new Mantis scoop as soon as possible!

9D660287-B043-428D-84D8-240F2E01AE1E (resized).jpeg
#2135 1 year ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

In fact, is that original?

Yes, RFM came with a protector for two sides of the hole. Mantis amusements created one that protects it from 3 sides. And of course, there's also the cliffy that can hide the hole damage.

#2136 1 year ago

In the club. Still trying to get this thing up and running. Good to be here. And thanks to ForceFlow for answering my rudimentary questions in the other thread.

#2137 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Yes, RFM came with a protector for two sides of the hole. Mantis amusements created one that protects it from 3 sides. And of course, there's also the cliffy that can hide the hole damage.

So if I’m putting in a Cliffy (and replacing the worn scope with a Mantis) should I remove that metal protector that’s in there now?

I don’t want to start forcing (bending) the Cliffy to get it to fit if it’s not made too.

#2138 1 year ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

So if I’m putting in a Cliffy (and replacing the worn scope with a Mantis) should I remove that metal protector that’s in there now?

Cliff would know for sure--try emailing him about it and post back here.

Although in the example photos, it looks like it isn't present.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/rfm_pro.htm

#2139 1 year ago

I have both a cliffy and a mantis in my RFM for ultimate protection. it's tight, but they both do fit. NOTE: install the cliffy first!! otherwise you'll just end up bending the tabs and ruining the cliffy (in the words of bryan kelly, don't ask me how I know
8BA5DDB4-F641-4775-94BF-8E82A6721B45 (resized).jpeg

#2140 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I have both a cliffy and a mantis in my RFM

Same here.
Mantis was on it when I picked it up, and I added the Cliffy. I did have to take the Mantis off temporarily to put the Cliffy on.

#2141 1 year ago

who gave my image an "unsafe" tag? was it too close a shot of the stroke of luck hole for general consumption??

#2142 1 year ago

It must be pinball porn.

#2143 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

who gave my image an "unsafe" tag? was it too close a shot of the stroke of luck hole for general consumption??

You posted a picture of a tight hole what did you expect?

#2144 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

who gave my image an "unsafe" tag? was it too close a shot of the stroke of luck hole for general consumption??

Probably just a mis-tap on a mobile device. It happens occasionally, presumably when someone is trying to hit the enlarge button for the image. I removed the tag.

1 week later
#2145 1 year ago

I know...this is a lame question. But how much do you think a routed RFM is worth? Unfortunately the Pinside machine list says the RFM price range is only $2680 - $3120. But the Boston Pinball Ebay summery from 2013 to 2018 says averages for 2013 3,299, 2014 3,235, 2015 3,802, 2016 3,266, 2017 4,123, 2018 3,500, and overall 3,567

It's routed with some wear on the side of the cab from a strap during shipping and in front where the door lock bar padlock was. Playfield has some chipped paint where the balls drain (can't be seen normally and spot is now coated with varathane) also wear in front of the left most square target in front of the ball catcher (reinforced targets installed and varathane put on wear spot)

Other than that it's pretty much very good with a great condition tube monitor and original PC, cliffy, plastics protectors, painted Martians, extra plastics set, 3D- translite as well as original, target decals, new ball catcher plastic, new flap, extra flap, extra "modern" PC with pinbox disc, LCD monitor when needed, and LCD mount...and some other stuff odds and ends.

Location is California if that matters.

Thanks!

BobC

#2146 1 year ago

Oh! It has an extra playfield glass too

#2147 1 year ago

Anywhere between 2500 for a routed, but working example up to 3200 or so for a very nice example. If anyone asks more than that, it doesn't seem to move.

#2148 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Anywhere between 2500 for a routed, but working example up to 3200 or so for a very nice example. If anyone asks more than that, it doesn't seem to move.

This sounds about right. $3K seems to be the "sweet spot". Much more than $32, and it's gotta be all original with something special going on.

#2149 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

I know...this is a lame question. But how much do you think a routed RFM is worth? Unfortunately the Pinside machine list says the RFM price range is only $2680 - $3120. But the Boston Pinball Ebay summery from 2013 to 2018 says averages for 2013 3,299, 2014 3,235, 2015 3,802, 2016 3,266, 2017 4,123, 2018 3,500, and overall 3,567
It's routed with some wear on the side of the cab from a strap during shipping and in front where the door lock bar padlock was. Playfield has some chipped paint where the balls drain (can't be seen normally and spot is now coated with varathane) also wear in front of the left most square target in front of the ball catcher (reinforced targets installed and varathane put on wear spot)
Other than that it's pretty much very good with a great condition tube monitor and original PC, cliffy, plastics protectors, painted Martians, extra plastics set, 3D- translite as well as original, target decals, new ball catcher plastic, new flap, extra flap, extra "modern" PC with pinbox disc, LCD monitor when needed, and LCD mount...and some other stuff odds and ends.
Location is California if that matters.
Thanks!
BobC

Those extras are nice but I’m not seeing anything that is truly unobtainium- maybe the flaps? So not much value there IMO.

I “think” these PFs were fairly robust as I don’t see many pop up with obvious wear. Maybe 1 in the last year of the pinside adds. So it’s lived a hard life IMO. mid-high 2s? No way I go over 3 with the PF wear and even then it’s a hard sell. If it’s been well maintained and going into a home environment that box of parts is just an expensive insurance policy for some day that may never come. Could maybe flip the plastics and translite? Or just let him keep the parts and buy the game as is?

#2150 1 year ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I “think” these PFs were fairly robust as I don’t see many pop up with obvious wear.

My pf shows zero wear because it has an aftermarket clear coat job. I think I have the only one.

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