(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

6 years ago



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There are 4353 posts in this topic. You are on page 41 of 88.
#2001 2 years ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

Ok, another question: The black inside walls of the cabinet are a little lacking in excitement. I see that Pingraffix has these PinBlades, and that's all I've been able to find. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I think I saw that there was a set of mirror blades available a few years back, but they don't seem to be available anymore. What have other people done?
Thanks!

I got them and they look absolutely fantastic. I had mirrors before but after I scratched them pretty badly I did purchase the Pingraffix decals. They really add depth to the playfield, and are really easy to set up, removable and best think ever is they do not scratch, so no worries lifting up and down the playfield. Absolutely recommended, just my opinion.

#2002 2 years ago

And P2000 has it's #2000 post thanks to ForceFlow.

#2003 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Does anyone know what the correct microswitch is for the lane rollovers?
It looks like one I have was replaced with a different one at some point.

[edit]: nevermind, I think I found it:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=829

Clean that while you're in there!

#2004 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Clean that while you're in there!

It's fresh off route--just picked it up a few days ago.

Quoted from arakissun:

And P2000 has it's #2000 post thanks to ForceFlow.

#2005 2 years ago
Quoted from arakissun:

And P2000 has it's #2000 post thanks to ForceFlow.

Correction. This is the RFM club. For P2000 club you need to add the 12 posts of the SWEP1 club. hehe
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swep1-loyal-order-of-the-gungans-club

#2006 2 years ago

But it's Pinball2000 after all.

#2007 2 years ago

What's the deal with LEDs in a P2K again?

I know they error out in test mode, but do they ghost or strobe or something?

Thanks!

BobC

#2008 2 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

What's the deal with LEDs in a P2K again?
I know they error out in test mode, but do they ghost or strobe or something?
Thanks!
BobC

I just did put them in the lower part of playfield and that’s ok. Use no ghost no flicker ones. By the way there are downsides with led as usual, but the mix sounds really good to me. Cheers.

#2009 2 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

What's the deal with LEDs in a P2K again?
I know they error out in test mode, but do they ghost or strobe or something?
Thanks!
BobC

The games also use some fading lights at times. With LEDs they are either on or off, no fading. So you lose that with LEDs.

#2010 2 years ago
Quoted from Giulio:

I got them and they look absolutely fantastic. I had mirrors before but after I scratched them pretty badly I did purchase the Pingraffix decals. They really add depth to the playfield, and are really easy to set up, removable and best think ever is they do not scratch, so no worries lifting up and down the playfield. Absolutely recommended, just my opinion.

Fantastic, thanks for the input! I did find that the mirrors are indeed available, but with shipping they look to be about twice the cost of the Pingraffix. The scratching had me really concerned as well, I think I'll be going for the Pingraffix,and I'll keep everyone posted.

Thanks again!

#2011 2 years ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

The scratching had me really concerned as well, I think I'll be going for the Pingraffix,and I'll keep everyone posted.

You can buy adhesive backed thin felt strip to go on the edge of the playfield which helps to prevent scratching on mirror blades. You can still get scratching on the Pingraffix style also i might add. I had a set on my STTNG ages ago and then changed to mirror blades...... both ended up getting scratch marks

#2012 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

The games also use some fading lights at times. With LEDs they are either on or off, no fading. So you lose that with LEDs.

That's true in fact. I think RFM was conceived as a "dark" pinball machine, and I got a friend that kept his all incandescent and the difference with the light fading on is obvious. You loose this cool feature. That's why I decided to go 50/50 and enlight only the lower part of pf.

#2013 2 years ago
Quoted from Giulio:

That's true in fact. I think RFM was conceived as a "dark" pinball machine, and I got a friend that kept his all incandescent and the difference with the light fading on is obvious. You loose this cool feature. That's why I decided to go 50/50 and enlight only the lower part of pf.

I wonder if herg could make an LED OCD board for this game.

#2014 2 years ago

Hmm, things just got a bit interesting.

The image on my RFM was a bit too wide, and shifted a bit to the left. I removed the translite, and discovered that the remote pots that were supposed to be there weren't. I investigated a bit further, and discovered that, despite the big "Ducksan" on the label on the monitor frame, the chassis was, in fact, a Kortec KT-2001SF.

This actually helped explain another issue I've been having: on power-up, when the boot sequence gets to the white background, the display appears to collapse into a single horizontal line, then gradually starts to sync. It's still flickering when the sequence returns to a black background, and then settles down. It's not too big an issue, and it goes away after the game has been on for a few minutes.

That's the bad news.

The good news: On the way back from picking up my RFM, I stopped by another collector's workplace, and picked up a WG K7302 that he said hadn't worked since he got his game a few weeks earlier. He didn't have the frame, though, so I got the chassis and the tube, minus a couple of connectors that were snipped. I also got the daughterboard with the remote pots. The chassis doesn't appear to be damaged, and I half expect that a cap kit and a new flyback may be all that is needed (assuming the tube is ok).

What I don't have, though, and am hoping someone here might have a line on, is a spare frame on which to assemble the WG. I've posted an ad in the classifieds, but just in case, I was wondering if anyone who has done an LCD swap might still have their old monitor frame around and might be willing to part with it?

Thanks everyone!

#2015 2 years ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

Hmm, things just got a bit interesting.
The image on my RFM was a bit too wide, and shifted a bit to the left. I removed the translite, and discovered that the remote pots that were supposed to be there weren't. I investigated a bit further, and discovered that, despite the big "Ducksan" on the label on the monitor frame, the chassis was, in fact, a Kortec KT-2001SF.
This actually helped explain another issue I've been having: on power-up, when the boot sequence gets to the white background, the display appears to collapse into a single horizontal line, then gradually starts to sync. It's still flickering when the sequence returns to a black background, and then settles down. It's not too big an issue, and it goes away after the game has been on for a few minutes.
That's the bad news.

That's actually the good news. That Kortek is a far better monitor. Sounds like whoever hooked it up may have made a mistake with the sync wiring though. I would start by going over that work.

#2016 2 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

More
That's actually the good news. That Kortek is a far better monitor. Sounds like whoever hooked it up may have made a mistake with the sync wiring though. I would start by going over that work.

I suspect a re-flow is probably the first step, as almost every monitor I've ever worked on has some cold solder joints somewhere. I'm just stoked that once I get the frames, I'll be able to build up a working, swappable monitor, probably just needing some adapter cables.

#2017 2 years ago

New to the club! A pin I always wanted to add to the collection just never found the right deal. Well I finally got that great deal on one! Sat for many many years in a operators warehouse burred away but it is very clean with very minimal wear. Complete all original and untouched. Looks like someone may have shopped it out at one point. Was also working at one point. I got it home plugged it in and it booted up and just as it was about to come on it went dark and dead. Looks like all my LED's are on the main board in the bottom of the cabinet but it seems the PC is not even firing up. I can hear HV on the monitor. I'm guessing the PC will need a new power supply and caps. Just to confirm if nothing happens on power up that's the PC? Can't wait to bring it back to life and play it!

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#2018 2 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

New to the club! A pin I always wanted to add to the collection just never found the right deal. Well I finally got that great deal on one! Sat for many many years in a operators warehouse burred away but it is very clean with very minimal wear. Complete all original and untouched. Looks like someone may have shopped it out at one point. Was also working at one point. I got it home plugged it in and it booted up and just as it was about to come on it went dark and dead. Looks like all my LED's are on the main board in the bottom of the cabinet but it seems the PC is not even firing up. I can hear HV on the monitor. I'm guessing the PC will need a new power supply and caps. Just to confirm if nothing happens on power up that's the PC? Can't wait to bring it back to life and play it!

Welcome to the club, I hope you got it at a non working price. Wish I could help with your problem.

#2019 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

More
Welcome to the club, I hope you got it at a non working price. Wish I could help with your problem.

I got a steal of a non working price! It seems to be working fine now that I've plugged it in a few times. It will boot and just as the playfield lights up it will shut down. Does that about 3 or 4 times then it will boot and work without issue for good. Monitor need some caps and I'll pull the main board out and reflow it. Not sure if the boot issue is the PC or main board. Seems like bad caps cold solder joints the way it's acting. While it was alive I loaded it up with LED's I had in my spare kit. LED's make these games really pop! Played the hell out of it last night and love it. Plays like new there is no wear at all on this thing at all. The more I look at it the more I can't believe the condition. Menu says it's only got 77 plays on it! Looks like it was waxed from time to time over the years and taken care of. The flap is cracked slightly but I have a new one on order already. Other then that, she is cherry! I'm hooked!

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#2020 2 years ago

I recently fixed an issue on my skip ramp, which might be useful to others. The skip ramp would get stuck in the up position. The plunger (item 3 in the diagram, below) that slides through the coil/sleeve to raise the skip ramp is actuslly two parts --the bottom is connected to a metal rod using a roll pin (the meral rod is the one drilled with two holes to connect it to the lift bracket). The roll pin somehow managed to work its way almost halfway out and so the plunger could no longer travel smoothly through the coil sleeve.

Pinball 2000 was such an amazing modular design: pull three spade terminal connections off the coil, pull the molex that is connected to the switch, unscrew four screws and then you have the whole skip ramp assembly on your desk to work on. So civilized.

My repair was to push the roll pin back into the center of the plunger. Hopefully that lasts another 18 years.

ade4dd1e8bcc683d9d584689081dcbce8199eceb (resized).jpg
#2021 2 years ago

I have a colour cast on my monitor since moving the machine. I don’t think the monitor has a degaus circuit in it. I’ve depowered the machine for multiple days but it hasn’t removed it. Looks like magnetic interference (top left of monitor has blue cast)

#2022 2 years ago

Can someone direct me to where the battery is by chance? I'd like to replace them but can't see where they are hiding?

#2023 2 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

battery is by chance?

On the computer motherboard is the only one I know of

#2024 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I have a colour cast on my monitor since moving the machine. I don’t think the monitor has a degaus circuit in it. I’ve depowered the machine for multiple days but it hasn’t removed it. Looks like magnetic interference (top left of monitor has blue cast)

I have that as well. I'm trying to figure out how to degauss the monitor with an external degaussing coil. The position makes the usual method awkward at best.

#2025 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

On the computer motherboard is the only one I know of

I read there is one on the motherboard and one on the prism card. What is the best way to access these??? I don't know how to get at them???

I've never worked on my RFM at all and I'm trying to understand where everything is and how to get at it.

#2026 2 years ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

I have that as well. I'm trying to figure out how to degauss the monitor with an external degaussing coil. The position makes the usual method awkward at best.

You can buy degaussing wands, about $25 over here. They work fine on any arcade monitors, sometimes takes a couple of passes to get it right.

#2027 2 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

I read there is one on the motherboard and one on the prism card. What is the best way to access these??? I don't know how to get at them???
I've never worked on my RFM at all and I'm trying to understand where everything is and how to get at it.

I don't recall if there is one on the Prism Card.
Both are in the computer cabinet in the head above the monitor.
To get to the computer; remove the Backglass. Then the computer can be slid "out" while the back part of the computer case remains in the channel. From there you can remove the computer case's cover and then access the battery(ies).

#2028 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I don't recall if there is one on the Prism Card.

There is. it's between the sandwiched PCBs.

#2029 2 years ago

Hi everyone,
There's a guy who sells a Revenge From Mars in my area.
I'll go see it in two days.
Could you tell me what to look at in particular, please?

#2030 2 years ago
Quoted from wylcot:

Could you tell me what to look at in particular, please?

The main thing is probably that it boots and plays.

Then, that the playfield glass is in good shape (it's expensive to replace), the apron is in good shape (hard to find), the ramp flap in good shape (currently unavailable) and works, and that the plastic that the ball impacts after launching from the ramp in the middle of the playfield is in good shape.

After that, it's just typical pin stuff for the most part.

#2031 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

You can buy degaussing wands, about $25 over here. They work fine on any arcade monitors, sometimes takes a couple of passes to get it right.

Oh, I've got one, I'm just trying to work out how to make the big, circular sweeping motion that you're supposed to do in front of the screen with the monitor in the position where it sits in the game.

#2032 2 years ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

Oh, I've got one, I'm just trying to work out how to make the big, circular sweeping motion that you're supposed to do in front of the screen with the monitor in the position where it sits in the game.

Hmm true, good point!! Supposed to work in a circular motion from the center to the outside and sweep away so to speak..... With the amount of room either side that could be difficult.

#2033 2 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

I read there is one on the motherboard and one on the prism card. What is the best way to access these??? I don't know how to get at them???
I've never worked on my RFM at all and I'm trying to understand where everything is and how to get at it.

Quoted from ForceFlow:

There is. it's between the sandwiched PCBs.

Yes, sandwiched between the Prism PCI card and its daughterboard. Word of caution, be extremely gently when prying these cards apart! Seen many with the connectors ripped off.

#2034 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

The main thing is probably that it boots and plays.
Then, that the playfield glass is in good shape (it's expensive to replace), the apron is in good shape (hard to find), the ramp flap in good shape (currently unavailable) and works, and that the plastic that the ball impacts after launching from the ramp in the middle of the playfield is in good shape.
After that, it's just typical pin stuff for the most part.

Awesome !
I'm making a list of all that for Thursday.
If I may, what is this ramp "flap"??

#2035 2 years ago
Quoted from wylcot:

If I may, what is this ramp "flap"??

It's the flap in the middle of the playfield. The mechanism underneath rises up so that it then forms a jump ramp.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4446&picno=14736

#2036 2 years ago

I had problem with stucked ramp at up position.Just put a regular spring from slingshot at the plunger of the skip ramp mechanism.Played a lot without problems.

#2037 2 years ago

Alright !
Thanks a bunch !
Really helpful !
I'll let you know if I'm part of the club !

#2038 2 years ago
Quoted from arakissun:

I had problem with stucked ramp at up position.Just put a regular spring from slingshot at the plunger of the skip ramp mechanism.Played a lot without problems.

It's probably the problem I described above, where the roll pin is working itself loose and binding in the could sleeve. I also found it odd that there was no spring, but the ramp bracket is heavy, so gravity alone should be enough to drop it.

#2039 2 years ago
Quoted from wylcot: Could you tell me what to look at in particular, please?

The playfield glass has a special coating on the bottom side. Make sure the coating and glass are not badly scratched. I’m not sure how easy it would be to source a new playfield glass.

#2040 2 years ago
Quoted from sawbill:

The playfield glass has a special coating on the bottom side. Make sure the coating and glass are not badly scratched. I’m not sure how easy it would be to source a new playfield glass.

The coating is actually on the top side. Good advice though... replacing that glass is expensive.

#2041 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Yes, sandwiched between the Prism PCI card and its daughterboard. Word of caution, be extremely gently when prying these cards apart! Seen many with the connectors ripped off.


I have never replaced mine only the coincell on the mobo.
Please tell me the Prism battery isn't NiCAD or Rechargeable... because I really don't want to feel like I have a time bomb waiting for me.

Edit:
"Lithium Battery BR2335 on the PRISM Sandwich Board. Not easy to swap, to only if you must. So far I am not sure, what problems exactly happen, when this battery gets empty. So far I have seen that they have still > 3,3 Volts! " -- http://www.pinball2000.de/troubleshooting.htm#BATTERY_PROBLEMS

so; whew... no time bomb.

#2042 2 years ago

Ok, so the guy sent me pictures of the machine he's selling.
The quality's really poor, but anything that strikes you straight away?
I mean apart from the worn hole which is pretty obvious...
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1528749591592_flyme (resized).jpg
1528749815152_flyme (resized).jpg
1528749641961_flyme (resized).jpg
1528749618590_flyme (resized).jpg

#2044 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

It's the flap in the middle of the playfield. The mechanism underneath rises up so that it then forms a jump ramp.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=4446&picno=14736

Planetary Pinball has the flaps in stock. Just bought one last night and it shipped today. Mine had a small crack in it.

#2045 2 years ago
Quoted from wylcot:

I mean apart from the worn hole which is pretty obvious

That's fairly common for this machine to be worn/broken around the stroke of luck hole. A Cliffy protector "should" cover most of that damage'

#2046 2 years ago

Typical monitor in these? I'm buying a cap kit for it to freshen it up.

28870078038_839714c52e_z (resized).jpg
#2047 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

That's fairly common for this machine to be worn/broken around the stroke of luck hole. A Cliffy protector "should" cover most of that damage'

But without fixing it and making it flat again the Cliffy will cave in and the edges will start to curl up.

#2048 2 years ago
Quoted from wylcot:

Ok, so the guy sent me pictures of the machine he's selling.
The quality's really poor, but anything that strikes you straight away?
I mean apart from the worn hole which is pretty obvious...

The pictures are to small so I really can't tell.

#2049 2 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Planetary Pinball has the flaps in stock. Just bought one last night and it shipped today. Mine had a small crack in it.

Good to know--last I checked, I think it was out.

#2050 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

That's fairly common for this machine to be worn/broken around the stroke of luck hole. A Cliffy protector "should" cover most of that damage'

Quoted from MustangPaul:

But without fixing it and making it flat again the Cliffy will cave in and the edges will start to curl up.

That's what I thought.
Both.
Fixing and then Cliffy.

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