Thanks Pinfidel, any idea where i can get a chassis cap kit from to suit these monitors?

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/

He is the best by far. Only thing that stinks is that you place and order and then you have to send him a check or money order. Out dated way of doing things, but that's the only way he does orders. The site is confusing too. But just find the EXACT model number on your chassis and then look it up and order. If you have any questions, you can ask via e-mail. They are usually quick to respond. Good luck.

Thought I'd post a few pics of mine, cab decals are a bit used up, but the playfield is nice with a bit of SOL wear.DSC00284.JPG
DSC00289.JPG
DSC00299.JPG
DSC00298.JPG
Needs a clean though

Mancave - What monitor do you have in your machine? I may be able to help you out

Chris

"We will bake you cookies!"

Just checking in - great thread!

Get a cliffy for your SOL. I had one on mine when I purchased RFM. Sometimes, some Cliffys make shots much harder (Creature Feature on TFTC comes to mind), but the SOL on RFM is just as easy to hit with a Cliffy as it is without one.

Hi Silverunicorn, it's a Wells Gardner 19K7302, i have tracked down a cap kit for it and ordered, just gotta wait to get it and then do the discharge bit !!

I saw a place online that sells them the other day and thought I'd get one next parts order.

"Missed me, ha-ha"...classic. Line appears in both AFM & RFM.

I'd love to see some pic of the decal procedure and the finished product with painted legs. I have a Nucore SWE1 with both playfields. RFM is such an awesome game I want to permanently convert the cabinet with new decals. There are also a few dents and dings that will make a full strip/bondo job worth the effort. Replacing the decals just scares the bejeezus out of me. That's a serious chunk of change you can ruin very quickly.

Can anyone advise me on how to adjust the sol hole kickout? I'm getting several kickouts that go sdtm. not every time, but seems like more than it should happen. Just looking for a little guidance before I tear into it.

Finally replaced the switch that activates ball capture for multiball. It stopped working about a month after I got the pin and scores are just not the same without that feature.

Anyone know how to reset the high scores? I did a man scan of the menus recently with no success.

Can anyone tell me the best rivet to place a new ramp flap on the bracket with? Old one had a split, new one ready to go, but not sure what size to use.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-18-rivet-help

I had this problem as well...usually means the scoop is damaged.

I installed a Mantis scoop that works great (and is adjustable to dial in the sweet spot).

http://www.mantisamusements.com/rfm1.htm

So much better than AFM, how so?

^^^^ Not overpriced for one.

I'm not saying I agree or disagree, but how about this: RFM has basically the same shot layout but with more humor, better graphics, more modes, better wizard, more player controls, and better sound. Whether that adds up to a superior package is up to the player to decide.

I had the same problem. I managed to fix things mostly after a good cleaning out and tightening of all the screws. I also installed a Cliffy SOL protector while everything was apart which could possibly have helped. Previously the scoop was shooting SDTM at least 50% of the time. Now it's reliably hitting the tip of the left flipper. Hopefully I can avoid replacing the scoop, but it's great to know Mantis makes a replacement.

Secret Weapon! AFM doesn't have Robo-Lincoln.

I put a 40 watt car stereo amp in mine and the audio is mind blowing. Since this title pioneered hitting virtual images, the sounds are critical (and totally make the game). I own both games, and think they are both great. No doubt that RFM is the better value, but it's unfortunately built on a platform that never took off. Hopefully Nucore will be resurrected...

I always look forward to the crazy "Mystery modes"...Martian autopsy, aerobics, bowling, etc.
IMG_8512.JPG

nosro pretty much summed it up but IMO EVERY aspect of the game is better than AFM.

I have actually been watching lots of AFM strategy/play videos since it will be used in PAPA C bank next month and all that studying has just reitterated how it pales in comparison to RFM.

AFM is still a fun game to play but just can't hold a candle to the shots, modes, art, humor, sounds, graphic, and fun factor of RFM.

Funny part is that people say RFM is too linear, but I think AFM is the more linear game. With RFM I get to pick my starting mode. With AFM I alwats play it the same way if I am going for big scores and want to RTU.

Is your Dell breathing fire out it's Butt?!

LOL

Chris

Hi guys.

So, I finally got my RFM all up and running. I'm just waiting on that decal set. But I had to put it back together to play it. I mean, those decals are supposed to be here next week, what if they get delayed? I can't wait that long. LOL

Anyway, I installed the tube light and I tell you, it's a MUST have. Not only does it burn a lot cooler but it shines perfectly across the entire translite without reflecting off the PF glass. Additionally, it hooks right into the existing ballast. No modifications or connections are needed. AND, once it's in, you can actually turn the whole light and point it where you want. I actually have mine pointing about 60 degrees upward. It's perfect. Doesn't blind you either. You will love this light.

Here's the link...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00852A8SO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Now a trouble shooting question for you guys. My right martian is not moving at all. I put a tiny bit of oil on my finger and spread it all around the linkage arm to see if that would free it up more and get it working. No dice. Any ideas what I can do to get it working? I'm thinking maybe it's just a weak coil. I could feel the coil working when I was touching it in the martian mode. It moved up and down a tiny bit, but that was all. What do you guys think? Thanks.

Can you move it manually? Sounds like the coil may be seized.

Chris

Thanks. I ordered one after seeing how my original trans was so brittle from years of the flourescent heat.

Thank you much! Bought one!

Here's my RFM:

Mods Include:
Ultimarc Video Amplifier
Almost Fully LED'd - including Flashers and Purple Spotlights
Purple Scoop LED
JJP Glitter Transparent Red Flipper Bats
Hand Painted Martians
Dimmed Florescent Tube

My favorite LED's are the Green LED Flashers under the martians and the Purple Spotlights

I enjoy my RFM, and my wife/kids LOVE it. Thus, I love it -- because it has my family playing pinball with me. And was the gateway for garnering my oldest son's interest in pinball, who, at 8, is now entering local tourneys with me.

From a gameplay/strategy perspective, the main thing I wish that RFM had is the ability to stack features. But given the awesome integration of the monitor with the active mode/multiball, I don't know how they would have pulled off a mode/multiball stack. I suppose they could have given the monitor's visual priority to the multiball, and then had audio cues (at a minimum) and quick points display over the shot for successful shots associated with the mode during multiball play. Something along the lines of what LOTR does during its multiballs when a mode is running "behind" a multiball.

If someone has the ability and access to the code to pull off a new custom/home ROM that does this, RFM would go from great to outstanding.

I completely agree. For those with the means a full amplifier and speaker replacement is the way to go. For those with more limited budgets, at least replace the speakers for $35. I found the improvement to be substantial over the stock speakers that were clearly past their prime, which were never that good even in their prime.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-2000-speaker-upgrade

^^^ Highly recommended.

The new speakers really sound nice. I never heard the old ones in my machine because I tore it apart the second I walked in the door. But these sound great.

Installing the new ones (as recommended in the thread) required some work. For starters, the speakers are yellow. So, I took them and sprayed them with the metallic black fleck paint that I painted the rest of the hardware with. Anyone can spray paint them with a spray can. I recommend using a flat black spray paint as it will help to conceal the speakers. Flat means no sheen/shine in the paint.

Also, the speaker grill no longer fits on the machine. You won't be able to screw the 3 lower torx security screws into the magnet shield. The inside top lip of the grill was hitting the curve of the speaker. I took out my Dremmel with a cutter blade and I notched out the grill some more. After I did that, it fit right in.

Lastly, do NOT use the supplied speaker screws. They are too long and will go through the speaker panel. You don't want that. I used some small stainless steel screws and painted them as well. You can do the same with the spray paint. Just get a piece of cardboard and pop the screws into it. That will hold the screws up for you. Then you can give them a couple of nice coats of paint. If you should scratch them after you screw them in, take a cheap paint brush. Even a kids paint set brush is fine. No brushes? Use a tooth pick. Take the brush or t-pick and spray paint the end of it. Then dab the head of the screw with it and it will look perfect again.

Yes. It manually moves no problem. I thought maybe the coil sleeve just needed to be replaced at first, but because it moved easily, I don't think that's the issue. I also lubricated the coil shaft with just a tiny drop (spread around) of 3 in 1 oil. Now it moves even easier.

I put it in test mode and it popped up and down so the coil fires. Also, it moves here in there for like a second when activated with the game play.

Even though it shows green in test mode, do you think it's just a weak coil and needs to get changed out? There's no loose wires or anything under there.

Thanks.

You guys who are buying the LED tube lights. I PROMISE you, you will be 1000% glad you did. It burns nice and cool and takes more pressure off the light board. The entire translite is beautifully lit now with NO eye blinding or PF glass glare whatsoever. Be sure to come back in here and recommend it so others will know for certain that's it's a must have. I may try to get these for my Stern machines now that I think of it.

One mod that everyone forgot to mention is a Glare guard. Its probably the most cost effective (CHEAP) mod that will enhance the gameplay dramatically because it really allows you to see the ball.

Glare Far shot.jpg

Glare Gone far shot.jpg

Glare Guard.jpg

Glare guard Front .jpg

Glare on RFM.jpg

I use glare guards on my Sterns, but there is no glare that I've noticed with the new LED tube light installed. Not only that, it doesn't blind you to look at the screen either.

In fact, I'm going to take a measurement and I'm ordering a few more now.

Edit: This one is too small, a 24" tube is needed.

I tried ordering one of those led tubes, the site said it couldnt be posted to Aus

That stinks. But hey, that's just one seller. Maybe there are other seller around that are near you? You may even be able to get one at your local big box hardware store. I'd start checking there first. GL.

Pinfidel - the lamp in the translite is 18" right ???

sure hope so. I did not even measure and just ordered based on his link for 18"

I was just about to order it blindly as well but will wait to hear back.

Right on, thanks for all that replied to my query, and it was even civilized, that's fresh here!

563 days since I posted this, and I'm still lovin' my RFM...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/afm-vs-rfm-ultimate-alien-smackdown

AFM vs RFM is like pinball's equivalent of Camaro vs. Mustang.

Sorry guys, haven't been on since this morning.

Yes, the tube is 18" in the game. The Amazon link I posted is the exact one I bought and it fits perfect.

thanks for confirming! looking forward to the quick upgrade

Quickest and easiest upgrade ever. Wish everything was that easy.

I also took my tube and turned it to face straight out to see how it looked, and it's even better straight ahead facing the translite. That's definitely the way to go.

So, the UPS guy comes this afternoon around 3. I'm psyched cause I know he's here to deliver my 2 new sub-woofers. Out comes one, then the other. He goes back inside and pulls out a 3rd box. Hmmm, what's in there? Well, I open it up and low and behold...my new RFM decals are here! A week early no less. So, I spent 3 hours working and got the back box completed along with new T-Molding. Let me know what you guys honestly think.

IMAG1289.jpgIMAG1296.jpgIMAG1294.jpgIMAG1348.jpgIMAG1350.jpgIMAG1355.jpg
From decent (when I got it), to perfect!

I like the red T-Molding, but there's a lot of red outlining the decals. So, I wanted to change it up to green.

Now this green is called "Alien Green". I got this cause the one I really wanted was called "Galaxian Green". It's a lighter green and although I like this green, I think the lighter green would've looked even better.

What do you guys think?

Thanks.

Edit: Oh, if you guys look, you can see the black metallic fleck paint on the speaker grill ad the top lock plate. You can see a little sparkle, but it really looks awesome in person.

What I also love is that when you are playing it and the pop ramp lifts, it catches the sparkle off the speaker grill and looks just like I painted the ramp as well. Looks spacey and very cool. I'll post a bunch more pics after I get it completed, hopefully tomorrow.

ooooooooooooo . Pretty Pinfidel!!!! Where'd you get the T-molding?? I won't copy your green, but I would like to change mine out somewhere down the road.

Weak Coil
I had the same problem with mine, it would work intermittently during Martian Multi-ball and work during the tests.

I replaced it with a new coil and it's working perfectly.