look in the upper left corner of the secondary (solder) side of the board. He burnt a trace off... an fixed it with a wire jump.

Yes sorry, no ''after picture'' i solder a wire to repair this burnt trace.
By the way, the fuse near the power switch is 2amp max, a previous owner installed a 6.3amp
That's why i had all those trouble when i short the switch ....

Check all the fuses in your games, maybe 50% of them are overfused. Many of my games
come overfused that way.

Nice job. That's crazy, none of my games are overfused.

You should feel bad. I hope you feel bad every time you play that game.

Huh huh, that's mean.. Hmm i like that

how hard is it to find a drop in RFM playfield? Have a very nice SWE1 and tempted to just add RFM to it....What else is needed besides the pf?

From what I understand you'd need the prism card with the game ROMs for the computer, or you need to be running a nucore/pinbox system with both game roms.

I have a SWEP1 as well, seems like finding just the RFM playfield/card is rare. From what I've read they never sold that as a stand alone kit, just the SWEP1, and RFM seems to be the more popular game as well.

thx!

Looking at an RFM with a bad monitor. Comes with an LCD conversion kit. Has someone documented the process from mounting the bracket, lcd and installing adapters? Would love to find someone ho documented or made a video.

I'm still a big fan of keeping the machine CRT if at all possible, some will agree, some won't. Is the monitor itself bad? or the chassis needs repair? If you look back through this thread i'm pretty sure people have mentioned the process involved in changing the machine over to LCD/LED, and from what i remember reading it's not a majorly difficult job to do. Whatever you decide on it's an awesome, fun game

Ill try and fix monitor....just need to find a troubleshooting guide. suspecting a board issue.

There is always individual method for mounting LCD.It's not hard work,but you must know that may need to do some cut at the corners of the wood to fit it,because usually LCD monitors even 19"(square 4:3) are little bit more big than original CRT.

True, mine sat perfectly in the little nooks in each corner of the original opening. I just closed the gaps on the top/bottom/sides with some wood which I painted black which also acts to hold the monitor in its place securely too!

I'm using a Dell 19" 4:3 monitor which replicates the original size quite well.

I use 19" square LCD and I'm happy with the result,but I think 21" LCD square will fit perfect.
Mine have little mismatch at the ramps animation,but you must look at very close,with 21"will be perfect.

Tonight I fired up my RFM monitor after swapping boards to the non-cracked CRT.
Fired right up. Did a little convergence adjustment and looks pretty good. I'm going to try and reassemble my RFM head tomorrow; but it's forecasted to rain here... so that my limit my ability to move games around to work on the RFM.
We'll see.

Saw on a TNT video an rfm with spinning saucers with LEDs. They look awesome. But they are $400 in Germany. Anyone find these cheaper ?

Rain was spotty; so I became an active member of this club again:
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Original CRT swapped out. No LCD here.

Second rfm at home, came with an additional playfield and decals. I'll try to have a beauty at the end. My 1st is running pinbox with a dell lcd, this second one has a working original computer but crt displays a ultra blurry picture with faded colors.
Focus doesn't fix that. What guru's are suggesting ?
Thanks

Ever since moving house, my RFM seems to go into a ball search mode if I don't plunge the ball for awhile. Do not know what could be causing this. Previously I could leave a ball in the shooter lane, have dinner and come back to complete the game. Now ball searches and I think the ball will be automatically plunged if I delay plunging myself. Any ideas guys

Enter switch test and make sure the shooter lane switch is being activated by the ball when the ball is at rest in the shooter lane.
Check the settings for ball search or timed plunger (depends on software installed) in the adjustments menu.

The CRT probably needs recapped, or if the focus adjustment pot isn't doing anything at all it could be the pot itself. Fiddling with the focusing controls will almost certainly upset the convergence and make the image even worse. Any improvement that you do manage to make will not last long, since the failing components will continue to degrade. Personally I don't care for spending the money and time on old CRTs, as well as how scary and dangerous they are to work on. If it were me, I would try adding in the amplifier mod, it's cheap (ultimarc - $23) I know that improved my color dramatically, I'm just not certain about the focus part. Then I'd opt for replacement/LCD if that didn't do it.

The focus adjustment is on the flyback transformer itself and generally speaking, if the screen doesn't become clear using this then the flyback is going/gone bad. I agree, CRT's can be scary but once you know the do's and dont's they aren't that bad to work on. I'm not sure if there is a replacement flyback for either the Wells Gardner or the Ducksan chassis so sounds like swapping to LCD may be the option if you can't find a chassis replacement.

Focus pot is working, but does not help, still blurry

is there a guide or tutorial on doing the LCD swap?

Look that it's even worse in real..

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Does anyone have a cga/vga converter to recommand in chinese stores (alixpress or gearbest..) that works directly out if the box, without a need of additional synchro stuff ?

Mine is still CRT so i'm not the best person to guide you on that, but others in this thread have changed over so hopefully they can give you some tips.

If you have tried adjusting the focus pot on the flyback (one of the 2 on there, the other is for brightness) and it doesn't make any improvement to the screen quality at all then i can only assume the flyback is bad. I had a Super Off Road machine that had a bad flyback, did exactly the same thing.

Yep, what's the next step in your opinion ?
Repairing the board might be tricky

The monitor chassis could be repaired but i'm not sure if you can get a replacement flyback for that model, and from memory i can't recall the model number. Not too long after i bought my RFM the Wells Gardner chassis flyback died but i was extremely lucky in tracking down a NOS chassis of the same model. I know that quite a few WG flyback's have been reproduced just not sure about this one, and also not sure about the Ducksan chassis flyback, RFM's used both brands of monitor chassis.
As i stated in a previous post i'm a fan of keeping the CRT...IF at all possible, if that's not feasible then your only option is to go flat screen, either LCD or LED.

I dont want to speak for Borygard but I pm'd him about a monitor issue and he said that he is now suggesting the LCD conversion for most CRT issues to bulletproof game.

That's fair enough and that suggests to me that replacement Fly's aren't available, Borygard is far more knowledgeable than myself. Put it this way, everything else on a chassis board is pretty much either repairable or replaceable but some Flyback's just don't exist anymore that i'm aware of, and that part is a major one. I'm only commenting using my preference as a guide, in the future it's most likely i will have to go down the LCD pathway too

If it's a WG 19k series you can get flybacks for those all day from various sources.

You can make any standard resolution 19" monitor work in the game. You just need to transplant it into the funky frame.

I think my friends is DIY'd in with a wood frame (pain in the ass, but cheap)

Manufactured frame you can buy
http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm

lcDmount (resized).jpg

It's a ducksan.. That' a shame not to be able to fix that..

Has someone a cga converter to recommand ?

I was talking about the CRT frame. I would never put an LCD in an RFM.

I really dig the CRT. I was never one to put LCD screens in my arcade games either. I need me some scan lines.

Anyone add some RAM to the motherboard? It’s a bit choppy at times and I’m wondering if that would help.

I've read in the club here it makes no difference.

I added RAM to mine and it didn't help at all. All it does is make the self test longer. Pinbox isn't choppy....but I can't bring myself to replace the original computer or CRT

Good to know. I won’t bother then. Thanks!

Some people don't have a choice. The difference between a useless P2K and a working P2K can just be a LCD monitor, who's going to sit there with a broken pin just because it isn't running a CRT?

I went new computer, lock when lit frame and 22” lcd. Boots and works every time. And looks great. I contemplated adding something to reproduce scanlines and may still do so.

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I'm telling you: Get the Ultimarc VGA card.
You get to go nucore/pinbox and keep the original monitor. All that lagging in the pops is a thing of the past.

Guys using nucore, do you manage to have a perfectly smooth sound? Not choppy at all?
If so, which cpu and config ? And which nucore/pinbox ?
Mine is working but not as smooth as i would expect..

It's different for each PC configuration.There is no solution like-take this and this and this.It depend from BIOS,chipset,drivers and etc.
If you find HP DC7800 you will have perfect working machine.

thanks, using the pinbox iso available on torrent? D7800 is available in different CPU config, which one are you running ? E8400? E4600? E6750 ??

Every CPU will work.
I'm with E8400.

Hi all, new to the club... picked up an RFM about a week and a half ago... she no worky Rob has my computer hopefully he can work his magic

I have a video converter on the way but not sure if I'm even going to need that... don't know yet if my monitor is good or not lol

anyway here are a few pics, I have taken it down and cleaned, waxed, rubbers, and replaced a few broken bulbs...

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