Just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and found a fix before I go down the NuCore2.0 route..

Machine turns on fine and plays fine for a game or 2 then the screen image goes all messed up and then the flippers stop working. The music keeps playing fine though.

I tried all the usual things like reseating the PRISM card and such.. The power supply seems fine and the CPU fan works fine.

My machine has always kinda had this issue but it'd typically crop up every few weeks and I'd just reseat the PRISM card and it'd be good again.. Now it happens about 2-3 games in everytime.

I've tried both PCI slots too.

Cheers

If it was just the image playing up on the CRT i'd suggest that the chassis board may need some work but that sure wouldn't effect the flippers

I got it "working" again. One of the caps near the CPU had some black stuff on the top. Probably the culprit eh.. Is that pretty typical?

Based on? Did you measure it with a DMM/Voltmeter?

Sounds like it could be the card itself based on this. On mine, the connectors developed small cracks in the traces between the card sandwich. The card becomes fragile with age, the constant vibration and moving the card around has probably damaged it in some fashion. If you don't find any obvious damage, perhaps reflowing the pins may help. Just be very careful, especially if you pry the sandwich apart. You could try replacing the Prism card with a known good one.

OK, I was typing that reply when this popped up. Chances are, if you had one bad cap that probably more are faulty. They don't have to visually obvious. Others are probably bad as well that look perfectly fine. But that said, if it is working well and stable - I'd probably leave well enough alone...and start working on a backup plan should it crap out again. I have a Pinbox ready to go in storage, myself.

Yea reading some stuff past few days while trying to figure this out.. I think it is just delaying the inevitable I've got Pinbox, might throw it on an old PC..

I just finished restoring everything and getting it looking really nice too...

Electrolytic caps go bad all the time from this era.
It's a lot cheaper to order replacements than it is to fool with it.
If you don't have the skills to replace them... send them to some one like Rob Anthony for repair.

It's not a matter of if, but when. You could probably keep it running by replacing the caps (and hopefully not damaging the board), or by sending to Rob Anthony. However, my suggestion would be to go the Pinbox route, and not have to worry about it again. Make a backup and you are golden.

If it's just the caps on the motherboard that are a common failure, replace them and you are good. No need to change to Pinbox for that, as it also requires a PC (which has capacitors).

Just because the mobo is old... doesn't mean it's "destine" for the garbage.
It take skill to keep these machines running... don't ruin it by just tossing what you think is a lost cause.
Just saying; I'd rather keep mine running with original/repaired parts than by tossing the system in favor of a Nucore/Pinbox.

I am also with the camp that original is good. Not just the mobo, but also I like the CRT that is working well, the incandescent bulbs. But, there are also a lot of benefits to replacing with a Nucore/Pinbox. The only thing that is keeping me from that upgrade is that my original is stable. When it flakes out, I am not spending an evening replacing caps - in goes the Pinbox. That's just my preference.

I have a handful of compatible Mobos for these units.... unused, NIB. They're NOT OE, but DO have the correct CPU in them. What this means is that they will not display the boot screen until the PRISM card loads, as they come up in VGA and the monitor can't deal with that until the PRISM code takes over and switches the display mode.

Replacing caps is also an option; if one filter cap is bad, the others probably are too.....

100% agree that if everything is working fine, no need to replace the original computer. My comment was to say that if you are having issues, Pinbox/Nucore are wonderful options that keep you from having to search for parts that are unobtainium. If it's a simple capacitor fix, and you are capable of handling it (note that this mobo has micro traces sandwiched in the board that are very easy to damage), then of course, keep chugging with the original. That said, when the time comes, and it likely will, my suggestion is to install Pinbox/Nucore and not have to worry again.

Thats why i said consult a professional if you need a mobo repaired. Rob is more than capable. For me, id cut off the bad cap and use my Pace desolderer. But i have the equipment...

Are you hoarding those mobos... Or offering them?

I am working on my RFM restore and it's coming along nicely.

IMG_1071 (resized).JPGIMG_1051 (resized).JPG

How much sanding do you think you'll have to do?

I'm getting someone to replace the caps on my board, it is exhibiting what looks like the usual signs of bad caps. It won't boot at all anymore with or without the PRISM card, one of the caps looks to have burst.

I'll let you know how it goes, I really like my RFM..

Hello Guys
Does anyone have issue with a week or interminent Ball Trough, the coil looks good mesure and looks fine, did a coil tubing replacment as well, cleaned the parts seems everything ok, except for a waboling Bell Armature, anyone has a hint to make less waboling.
I tough to increase the tip too, that makes contact with the ball to try to enlarge the contac area and improving the hit.
Any ideias ?

Thanks
Marcos

Hello Guys
I did a "homebrew" fix for the ball through issue, on my case the coil was good, as well the coil tubing, i realize the tip sometimes slept on the ball doing a fault launch, so what i did was enlarge the hit area on the tip, till now working fine!

Photos of the mod:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZlpE8dOkSWOGVtLs2

If anyone have another suggestions, i´m all ears !

Thanks Marcos

That looks like a nice fix but I have no other ideas.

Looks like a cool and easy solution!

So i had my caps all replaced but same issue. The game won't boot with the prism card and give the following blurry image which scans over the screen without the prism card..

Anyone have any other diagnosis tips to see what the problem might be?

Cheers!

File 24-10-17, 6 42 36 pm (resized).jpeg

I used Goof-Off to get the rest of the glue off and a light sanding with 220 on a power sander. Now I’m onto making the sides smoother than factory with Bondo.

55FD5E8A-E4D6-41B2-A9F8-F52AC82C7711 (resized).jpeg
B0BAAF97-2AA6-41D2-9DA3-FE82B81D0BD0 (resized).jpeg
7696BD1D-303E-49A5-8EF0-7D7D25BDCEBD (resized).jpeg

So you’ve tried adjusting the monitor while you have the prism card out? It looks like you have boot text at least. The cap replacement is difficult to get right. Did you get Rob Anthony or someone else with that level of experience to do it?

Have you tested or substituted the monitor to make sure it is not the problem?

Try hooking up a VGA monitor. I think the PRISM card its what tells it to output CGA. I've booted my machine to a regular VGA monitor without the PRISM card and you'll get an info text screen (which is what I think your monitor is trying to display)

Looks like the problem is from the monitor not PC motherboard.Like don't have sync.

Would a bad monitor stop the game from booting though?

Is the light supposed to stay solid orange on the prism card, i can't remember?

Yes I had someone who repairs boards for a profession replace the caps, so i'm pretty confident it was done correctly.

If you boot the CPU without a PRISM card, you need a regular computer monitor (VGA) and you should see a screen like the image below. The PRISM card is the "hard drive" of the system, and also tells the video card to output CGA, which is only compatible with specific CRT monitors, like the one in the cabinet.

IMG_8296 (resized).JPG

I agree with this. That said, if you're running pinbox/Nicore you can still keep your CRT. I have an older version of this card and it works perfectly:
https://www.ultimarc.com/avgainf.html

Hello, you just put this card in nucore/pinbox pci free slot and works? No need to setup parameters on nucore/pinbox ubuntu, right? That’s interesting..

Correct, except it's PCIe x16.

No drivers required and it lets me keep my CRT. On the older version of the card I have, I still "needed" to add the optional video signal amp mod --basically it's just like people would add to the stock PC. I'm not sure if the newer version of the card is producing higher voltage or not (my guess is not).

Edit:Checked the FAQ. It's 1v so you'd still want the amp even on the new version. https://www.ultimarc.com/avgafaq.html

My version is the 3000 iirc the latest is the 5000.

Thanks ! Nice info, bought an old 3000iirc one used, few mins ago

I got to my wits end trying to get that POS PC to work.. Pinbox it is. It was fairly painless to get working, just need a new monitor and a way to output the sound.

Good job.

Guys, where is the light starter located on Pinball 2K ? I thought it would be next to the light tube but I can't see it.

Thanks
Matt

Use your old monitor with the Ultimarc VGA board (see my post above https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/34#post-4039263) and use a Lepai amp to connect the 1/8" out of the PC to your existing speakers.

Hello,

i want to ask if i can be a member of this club

And i think, my question is better here placed than in my other thread, so...

One question to the experts here:

How can i reset the Highscores?
I don´t find it in the menu.
Thank you.

Greetings

Nice to see you here, sure you can join. Welcome. Wish I could help with your question.

Is there a pin 2k club? May try and get the combo RFM and SWE1. The SWE1 has the light sabre not working. Wondering that a hard fix or just replacing a few parts.

Not that I've seen.

I purchased the the amp, thanks.

My monitor colours are pretty screwed, looks like a strong magnet hit it at some point I think I'd prefer a new LCD screen.

I can't wait to get it completely back up and running.

I plugged in my headphones while waiting for the amp and the stereo sound is so awesome!

Where did they come from?

If it WAS a magnet, it's a very easy fix. Get a degausser and degauss the monitor.
If that doesn't correct it, then you'll need to have a tech look at it.

But if it just needs a degaussing, it's not a reason to ditch the whole thing.

First check the Neon using an alligator test clip, ground the black transformer lead to the metal side rails on the game (or any other ground point). If the neon tube glows, the driver board circuit is the problem. Could be the 12 volts (Fuse 108) Mine system I had to replace 74HCT574 at U34 and ULN2803 at U35 to resolve the issue. Data came from https://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-184838.html

Thx!

Can someone help with my issue. I reflow Ed solder on the board and my screen is snow. The game boots, but only snow on the monitor.

I was curious if the connector is wired right as I has to reconnect two pins and all pins have wires when the board shows one should be missing.

20171101_185222 (resized).jpg

Hello.
What is the best size for a LCD monitor?
Is there any brand/model thats better to use?

I use 19" with TN,no problems,but the best fit is 20" LCD standart 4:3,not widescreen.
I have now offer for DELL with IPS 20" for just 30 US$,but already put 19".