Just a quick update. The skirts are broken an worn, so when I press on them they work. Looks like I'll get new skirts on the next parts order. And does anyone know which style of trim is used for pin2k? Can I use WPC and cut to fit? Talking about the back glass trim and lift channel.

Hahah i actually pulled some parts from the top shelves to make sure... and drove like a grandma

I know right. It is perfect for it. I need a new one anyways, so I am just going to hold out and see what happens.

I'm pretty sure.

Well that can be dangerous too. Glad you made it home safe with your new game though.

New to the game here.... when exactly are the controlled gates above the pops suppose to work for a full orbit shot? Both gates work fine in test.

If anyone is going to pinfest..... Marcos had a piece of new pin2k glass for $150!!!!

I almost bought it to keep in case i ever find another RFM.

Also not disabled in settings

Not positive for RFM but for AFM it is after you have completed the shot three times. Guessing it is probably the same.

Thanks didnt seem to work, i can hold left flipper before launching and open left gate. Just curious which modes give an orbit shot.... anyone?

Check this site out and go to the "Highly recommended game settings" section. There are two settings to adjust and it gives the game a lot better flow (specifically that gate) on the lock shot. Hope this helps!

http://www.aaarpinball.com/RFM/RFM.htm

It did thanks a bunch.

No kidding??? I could use a piece. Damn

yesterday i noticed that in secret weapon mode i heard :
everybody was kunt fu fighting, again but havnt heard it in at least 50 plays
if not more!
is there a randomizer in the software or does it only say this at a certain combo of hits???
tried to replicate but doesnt come

is this game magic????

here you can see the ending SPOILERALLERT

Give them a call, I bet they still have it.

Doubt they would ship, but worth a phone call.

Money is to tight right now.

Asking for assistance from the RFM membership regarding my RFM that was recently purchased from CJ a new Pinsider.
CJ purchased my RFM in order to place it at his Church (in the rec room) for the purpose of giving the inner city children an outlet.

During the transport, the CPU must have gotten jostled and is now intermittently working, including freezing up in mid-game play. It's probably a daughter/prism card, motherboard, or RAM issue. We're trying to isolate it now, but it's proving difficult to get it back to working for long periods of time. The current system is running version 1.4 of the software, and the CPU has been taken out multiple, multiple times with everything possible in the CPU reseated, reslotted and cleaned. A post was placed in the tech section this weekend addressing the issues and some good suggestions were gotten, but still no absolute solutions.

I believe we either need to upgrade to 1.5/1.6 software, but that may prove challenging onto itself and may not ultimately solve the current issues. Or, we may need to move on to a Pinbox/Nucore system, in lieu of Nucore coming back. What other options do we have at this point???

Please help CJ and I with the RFM computer issues. Thanks!

In my experience, this is a RAM issue. If you have multiple RAM DIMMS installed remove one of them then start the game and see what happens. If it still freezes, swap the RAM for the one you removed. If you only have one DIMM installed, i would look at getting a new stick.

One of these should work: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-256MB-PC100-168-Pin-16-Chip/dp/B000YQUB8Q/ref=sr_1_2

Also, i would NOT attempt to update the firmware until you have this resolved. If it freezes when updating you could create a whole new problem

I had similar intermittent lock-ups and freezing. Tried all kinds of reseating, then replacing the RAM and did that not solve. On mine the headers for the Prism card needed to be reflowed. Have not have had a problem since.

Hey all... I think i've finally (reluctantly) decided to go to an lcd monitor for my RFM. The tube in mine is weak and just getting weaker, even after an amp and a re-cap i'm not getting anywhere near the color or contrast I should.

So quick question.. When running to a cga to vga adaptor do you keep the amp in line or does the adaptor bring up the signal enough on its own? Thanks!

Could be the issue. But if i were him, id start with the cheap/easy solution first. The RAM is like $20, and 2 minutes to swap out. If no dice there, then he can move on to the prism card. As an afterthought have you looked at the caps on the motherboard? If any of them are swollen or popped, it could explain it. Normally the system wont even boot with bad caps, but each case is slightly different.

Picture here of where the caps are: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Mediagxboard.jpg

Yes I agree...try easy solutions first. I just wanted to point out there are other possibilities

Hey guys thanks for the suggestions for Joe (BestShot), he's a great Pinsider. I wish I could helped him but I'm a dummy when it comes to these things.

Do you think rfm would go up in price if Hillary becomes President?

Have you tried Rob Anthony at Lock When Lit yet? The guy knows his stuff about all things Pin2K...

I don't see why it would.

You won't need the amp anymore. The adapter will fix all of that. What size LCD are you planning to use? I did one before with a 4X3 20", but I plan to do my next one with a 21" 16X9. I have both so I plan to see which works best.

I'm thinking about 4:3 19" since they ar a dime a dozen and that was aproximately the original monitors size and aspect ratio. I actually probably have a few around here but if not there is a government surplus store that sells them, and without the stand which isn't needed anyway, they are even less

My other thought was to use an actual Wells Gardner flat scren monitor designed for replacing arcade monitors but that seems like spending over double just for the convienence of having a built in cga adaptor.

Yeah, I thought that 19" would work as well, but it's a little too small. The 20" wasn't bad but they are a little hard to find. I bought an extra Dell Factory refurbished 20" a couple of years ago. The black levels were decent but not as good as some of the newer ones so I was going to try the 21" 16X9 as well. I made my own mounting with Angle Iron and it worked pretty well.

Well I tried a HP 1951 19" I picked up today for 15 bucks. I like these for old arcades with dead monitors since their case come apart easily so you can get to the panel itself more like an open frame mount monitor. For RFM you're right t's too small but even worse also the viewing angle is way too narrow.

The viewing angle thing actually has me concerned about any monitor I find. I know they have made vast improvements in viewing angles horizontally but I'm not sure about vertically.

Maybe I will go hunting for a newish tube.

The ones I bought are: Dell UltraSharp 2007FP 20-inch Flat Panel Monitor. I bought them refurbished from Dell in 2014. They were $125.00. There seems to be quite a few used ones on eBay.

Those Dell monitors look pretty good, and on eBay right now looks like they are down to about 80ish shipped.

Too bad I already ordered this monitor (21.5") on Amazon for 99 bucks: http://amzn.com/B015WCV70W

I liked that there were no buttons on the face and has a very thin frame.

So far I think I can be satisfied with it. There is no fading to black and the picture is nice and clear at any angle so from that perspective it's pretty similar to a tube. The CGA to VGA card has geometry controls so it wasn't hard to get the aspect ratio of the image pretty close with a full fit across the playfield. I only wish it were about 1" taller to completely cover the tube opening which that dell might do but I think with a custom bezel it will be fine.

The black level isn't bad but I think I will try putting in a piece of glass with a sheet of very light auto tint to try to get that black level down to tube-like black, hopefully without fading the image.

Looking for the exact size of the back glass. Had a little mishap and will have to have another made. Thanks in advance.

I can take measurements tonight if someone doesn't get it to you before then

Pinball 2000 22 X 14 1/4

Thickness should be 1/8.

Thank you sir.

Correction, thickness is 3/16. Sorry about that.

SteveBigHead - How are you going to make one ? I lay awake at nights i fear that mine will beak and as far as I can determine there are no replacements on the west coast.

DorothyMacaw: ordering a replacement translite and trim, and having a piece of glass made.

Thanks Steve - I misread. I thought you were talking about the play field glass.

My center target (the main one in the middle of the semi circle) doesn't register hard shots. Replaced it with new targets twice, makes no difference. Any suggestions? Works fine in switch test.

Check the switch gap... if still an issue; I'll look for a bad/defective cap and/or diode.

Figured it out. The center target in my machine is the 3D type, with a big deep plastic cover on it. Its too much depth for that spot, the metal machinery behind the target stops it from moving. The prior owner must not have had the right replacement type, and I never checked pictures online to see what type it was... just assumed he knew what he was doing...

Anyway, swapping it out for the proper one.

Good detective work.

Just picked up a RFM directly from Bally here in Las Vegas that was onsite for employees at Bally in Chicago and am running into some issues with a couple of switches that differ from what I am seeing in the manual. I should state also the code on this game is 0.1 so maybe an update to 1.6 could fix a couple things.

Switch 47 should be the Jet Exit per the manual, but it is showing as Not Used in the switch test and instead Switch 48 is labeled as Jet Exit and showing as constantly closed. When testing the actual Jet Exit optos, they open/close as normal but on Switch 47 instead of Switch 48. Has anyone else seen those two switches swapped around and have any idea what might be registering as closed for Switch 48?

The other weird one is Switch 54 is labeled Left Ramp Entrance when it should be Switch 52 per the manual, but when I physically test those optos it trips Switch 52 as expected but that switch is labeled as Right Lockup 2 in the test and isn't even in the manual. I also have Switch 53 (Right Lockup 3) showing as closed in the switch test but it also isn't in the manual. Are either of these extra lockups are actually used for anything and what switch could the game be seeing as closed for Switch 53 & 54?

Lastly, Right Lockup 1 optos are registering normally and the coil is firing but when balls are actually captured it isn't kicking out to the right ramp until the game goes into ball search mode. All the fuses and board connections look good, is this possibly related to more crossed up switches? Thanks for any help anyone can provide!

switch_(resized).PNG
IMG_6560_(resized).JPG
IMG_6556_(resized).JPG
IMG_6557_(resized).JPG
IMG_6564_(resized).JPG
IMG_6558_(resized).JPG
IMG_6559_(resized).JPG

rob anthony is one of the few guys in the country that work on these, give him a holler.

Wow ... yes... that looks like EARLY alpha code.
I'd serious consider updating to a later version before chasing any bugs.

What's the serial number on the game (if the sticker is still on the front)? I wonder if you have an early prototype.