(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

10 years ago


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#6751 38 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

When I powered on my RFM the other day (CRT monitor) and noticed I lost all red colors. Probably something with the CRT itself? It's probably never been re-capped or anything.

With the game off you can try reseating connectors and neck socket. Cap kit is a good idea if it's never been done.

#6752 38 days ago

Bad solder joint on the main board.
Try other things first... Because redoing the connector is a high risk scenario... Ask me how I know

#6753 37 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Bad solder joint on the main board.
Try other things first... Because redoing the connector is a high risk scenario... Ask me how I know

How do you know?
Nothing to do with me but I'm curious.

#6754 37 days ago

Personal experience. Had exact issue and it was the main video connector's red connection on main monitor board.

Best to reflow everything when you're in there for recapping. Just don't snap the neck while removing the monitor from game.

#6755 37 days ago

Please be patient with me, I'm not at all a technician in any way, by, "main monitor board", do you mean the chassis?
Plus, why did you have to remove the monitor if you were working on the board? What red connectors? I checked on mine and I can't seem to find those connectors.
Did you snap the neck?

#6756 37 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

Please be patient with me, I'm not at all a technician in any way, by, "main monitor board", do you mean the chassis?
Plus, why did you have to remove the monitor if you were working on the board? What red connectors? I checked on mine and I can't seem to find those connectors.
Did you snap the neck?

You can't work on the monitor with it in the game... outside of adjustments which are usually on the front above the monitor.
If you look in your game; you'll see there is a the monitor tube... and at least two boards bolted to the chassis of that monitor.
My DuckScan monitor had three boards IIRC. A "main" big board on the "floor" of the monitor Chassis. A small squareish neck board which attaches to the tube. And a rectangular small which mounts at the top of the monitor and provides ~6 variable resistors for adjusting colors / etc.

To do any repair on the main board; including a cap kit... you have to remove it from the game.

Red connection; meaning the Red signal from the computer to the monitor. Red as in RGB. On my game the red pin of the main video connector on the main monitor board had a bad connection due to age. It had to be reflowed as it typical for monitors of this era.
I'm referencing ducksan02.pdf on the left bottom connector labeled CN101 on the schematics. The Red signal is pin 1 and it's ground is pin 2.

When in doubt; consult the monitor schematics which are likely NOT covered in the game manual.
http://www.pinball2000.de/pin2000_monitor.htm has both monitor schematics at the bottom of the page ( bullet 8 )

If you aren't technical; I'd avoid all of this.
Best you can do it check the main monitor cable is "good" by physically, visually checking it. Be sure to check the male pins to make sure it had good/unbent RGB signal pins. https://superuser.com/questions/424693/how-can-i-connect-the-vga-15-pin

It might be a good idea to delegate this to a more knowledgeable person.

Yes; I snaped the glass neck on my original monitor. I had to do a tube swap to get it operational. It's still not quiet right.

#6757 37 days ago

johnstewart I'd bet good money that you simply have a bad transistor (or bad connection to that transistor due to a cold solder joint) on the neck board. If all you are missing is red, that what the problem is 70% of the time (the remaining 25% would be a cold solder joint on the main board at the connector to the computer and 5% for just something oddball). I've repaired monitors as a side hustle for some time now. Basically, there are 3 transistors on the neck board: one for red, one for green, one for blue. Simply pull off the neck board, use your multimeter on the transistors (https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/news/library-articles/page/44797/a-quick-tutorial-on-how-to-test-a-transistor/), find the bad one and replace it.

Good luck!

#6758 36 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

You can't work on the monitor with it in the game... outside of adjustments which are usually on the front above the monitor.
If you look in your game; you'll see there is a the monitor tube... and at least two boards bolted to the chassis of that monitor.
My DuckScan monitor had three boards IIRC. A "main" big board on the "floor" of the monitor Chassis. A small squareish neck board which attaches to the tube. And a rectangular small which mounts at the top of the monitor and provides ~6 variable resistors for adjusting colors / etc.
To do any repair on the main board; including a cap kit... you have to remove it from the game.
Red connection; meaning the Red signal from the computer to the monitor. Red as in RGB. On my game the red pin of the main video connector on the main monitor board had a bad connection due to age. It had to be reflowed as it typical for monitors of this era.
I'm referencing ducksan02.pdf on the left bottom connector labeled CN101 on the schematics. The Red signal is pin 1 and it's ground is pin 2.
When in doubt; consult the monitor schematics which are likely NOT covered in the game manual.
http://www.pinball2000.de/pin2000_monitor.htm has both monitor schematics at the bottom of the page ( bullet 8 )
If you aren't technical; I'd avoid all of this.
Best you can do it check the main monitor cable is "good" by physically, visually checking it. Be sure to check the male pins to make sure it had good/unbent RGB signal pins. https://superuser.com/questions/424693/how-can-i-connect-the-vga-15-pin
It might be a good idea to delegate this to a more knowledgeable person.
Yes; I snaped the glass neck on my original monitor. I had to do a tube swap to get it operational. It's still not quiet right.

Thanks, I appreciate the explanations, and the good advice. My game says on the frame that it's a Ducksan but clearly is'nt a ducksan monitor. I recapped the main board and neck board last year but I managed to remove only the main board and neck board without removing the monitor, but, like I said, it's not a Ducksan, so I guess that's why I had no problem doing so. See picture of my monitor.

IMG_0462 (resized).JPGIMG_0462 (resized).JPGIMG_0463 (resized).JPGIMG_0463 (resized).JPG
#6759 36 days ago

It is a ducksan unless you confirmed the main board is not duckscan be verification against schematics

The monitor tube can be any brand. Duckscan coils have sourced form vendor

#6760 36 days ago

second picture says Ducksan on frame, first picture says Wells Gardener on board.
Unless I'm mistaken about the abbreviation?
Let me know.

IMG_0465 (resized).JPGIMG_0465 (resized).JPGIMG_0466 (resized).JPGIMG_0466 (resized).JPG
#6761 36 days ago

Ok. I stand corrected. Bastard configuration it is

#6762 36 days ago

Yeah, you can say that again,Why did they do that, was it a Willams hack?

#6763 36 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

Yeah, you can say that again,Why did they do that, was it a Willams hack?

The Ducksan monitors were pretty crappy. No surprise that someone replaced it.

#6764 36 days ago

Just listed my SWE1 kit. Complete the Pinball 2000 collection
Mods/Extras/New Stuff

* Coin taker LEDs and Flashers
* Titan Silicone Rings and Posts
* Extra daughter card with the SWE1 ROMs populated. Saves you a step when
swapping games.

#6765 36 days ago

I have a Ducksan frame with a different model monitor (not a Wells). Bastard configurations do happen. I really with I had a Wells.

#6766 36 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

The Ducksan monitors were pretty crappy. No surprise that someone replaced it.

I'm pretty sure this is the answer. An owner prior to you (assuming) had a bad or suspect duckscan monitor and replaced it with something they had on hand. Even during the hey-day; Duckscans were like Deer power supplies... no one really wanted one.

#6767 34 days ago

Hi, recently having a problem blowing fuse f111 (lamp matrix A) as soon as the game is turned on. Not sure what to check. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated. Thanks

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#6768 34 days ago

The manual says that F111 controls Lamp Matrix A , so something you see in the picture I posted is going wrong or has a short circuit, good luck in your search.

IMG_0475 (resized).JPGIMG_0475 (resized).JPG

#6769 33 days ago

it could be your driver board that has a bad component. Assuming you havent changed any lamps recently.
If you have enough fuses pull out the connector(s) for lamp matrix A and see what happens when you start the game.
Or you need to start doing some measurements and see if something is grounded on the circuit which drives the lamp circuit.
D29 - D32 are the 4 big diodes and check C55 C56 the 2 big capacitors on the right top side of your driver board. Next to that there is a big 2Watt resistor (r296)

#6770 33 days ago

Start with recent changes to the game (if any).
I don't see anything right with that open lamp matrix... Has the game been converted to LEDs?

#6771 33 days ago

I am trying to find my, CRT black out problem.
I noticed that after many hours, at least 10 to 12 hours, when the game is turned on, I have a black out on the screen after 4min 30 seconds, it's pretty much the same time each time.... but after turning on the game once, I have a black out, turn it off and on again, no black out afterwards even after a long period.
I have a question: can a cracked solder joint on a cap I soldered last year on the Chassis cause the CRT to black out like this?
I removed the chassis and reflowed a few solder joints that were'nt very well done at all and while I was at it, reflowed the connector pins. up to now, the problem has'nt reappaered.
Thanks.

#6772 33 days ago

Thanks for the info and suggestions! I looked over all the associated lamps yesterday. Just a visual inspection. I didn’t see any problems or anything out of the ordinary.

One thing I should mention is right before this problem started my “nucore/pinbox”computer actually stopped turning on. Power button was flashing orange, wouldn’t turn on. I reseated the memory card in the computer and that fixed that. But on the next start up f111 was blown. Other than removing the computer and plugging everything back in, there were no recent changes.

I did try to turn it on with a new fuse with lamp matrix A connector unplugged (j105). The red leds never turned on. The entire machine is dark besides the backglass and the Monitor.

I’m going to try and take some measurements next. Never really had to in the 2 years I’ve been in the hobby, so I definitely have some learning to do.
EDIT: I accidentally marked F112 as F111 in the picture. F111 is to the left of it.
688A4DEC-A093-4CA0-ACA3-CE4A269D2D16 (resized).jpeg688A4DEC-A093-4CA0-ACA3-CE4A269D2D16 (resized).jpeg

#6773 33 days ago

J105 is the power plug to the board so that is mandatory to leave in.
However take a multi meter and check for shorts first on the components I mentioned. Find the schematic manual for the driver board it is available online

The lamp matrix connectors are at the bottom right side of the board. You see one of them (a matrix) on your photo

#6774 33 days ago

Lots of lamps have very close connections to grounds so look it over thoroughly. Also, is your fuse slow blow or fast blow? I had a fast blow fuse where a slow blow was supposed to be and it drove me nuts for a few days until I realized.

#6775 32 days ago

I

Quoted from GILV:

I have been encountering a problem on my game for a few weeks now and I have no idea what could be wrong.
I turn on the game, start playing and sometimes, only sometimes, the screen goes blank, the game is still playing, I can here the sounds and voice calls, but no more image, I turn the game off and on again and the screen works great.
Sometimes I turn the game on and everything is OK for all of the time I play, other times the screen turns blank (no more image) after a a few games.
Does anyone know what could be the problem? Has anyone had this problem before?
Thanks in advance for the help.

Problem is persistent, I've checked every connector, reflowed every connector pin on Chassis and neck socket, I've checked for cracked or bad solder joints, did a few but I still have the same black out problem, I've noticed that it happens each and every time, after at least 12 hours of not being turned on, each and every time it take 4 minutes 30 seconds exactly to black out, once I turn the game off and on again, I never have another black out.
Anyone have other suggestions/ideas on what could possibly be wrong?
Thanks.

#6776 32 days ago

Just a shot in the dark but perhaps its a ram issue? I had an arcade game that was freezing up on me and that wound up being the issue. The music would keep playing but the screen would freeze. The predictable timing is what is making me think it's a possibility.

#6777 32 days ago
Quoted from insight75:

Lots of lamps have very close connections to grounds so look it over thoroughly. Also, is your fuse slow blow or fast blow? I had a fast blow fuse where a slow blow was supposed to be and it drove me nuts for a few days until I realized.

Quoted from erikie:

J105 is the power plug to the board so that is mandatory to leave in.
However take a multi meter and check for shorts first on the components I mentioned. Find the schematic manual for the driver board it is available online
The lamp matrix connectors are at the bottom right side of the board. You see one of them (a matrix) on your photo

The fuse is a 5A 250v SB. The fuse blew right away with the lamp matrix connectors unplugged. Would this mean the problem is on the board?

#6778 32 days ago
Quoted from Nickz4860:

The fuse is a 5A 250v SB. The fuse blew right away with the lamp matrix connectors unplugged. Would this mean the problem is on the board?

For sure it is. Do you have a multi meter with diode check mode? Use such a tool for checking for shorts. If you PM me your email address I can send the schematic pdf if you do not have it (yet) for the power driver board

#6779 32 days ago

Problems with exact numbers do not scream electrical issue. It screams software issue.

#6780 32 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

I am trying to find my, CRT black out problem.
I noticed that after many hours, at least 10 to 12 hours, when the game is turned on, I have a black out on the screen after 4min 30 seconds, it's pretty much the same time each time.... but after turning on the game once, I have a black out, turn it off and on again, no black out afterwards even after a long period.
I have a question: can a cracked solder joint on a cap I soldered last year on the Chassis cause the CRT to black out like this?
I removed the chassis and reflowed a few solder joints that were'nt very well done at all and while I was at it, reflowed the connector pins. up to now, the problem has'nt reappaered.
Thanks.

maybe a stupid question, have you tried hooking up your system using a serial cable to a terminal? The game spits out a lof of info on the serial port.
You get a black screen if the software falls back to monitor mode in XINA / XINU. You will see that in your terminal. Maybe nothing is wrong with your CRT at all ...

#6781 32 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Problems with exact numbers do not scream electrical issue. It screams software issue.

Yeah! That's what I was thinking as well, but I also have a SWEP1 kit with complete computer so I'll do some testing with it....

#6782 32 days ago
Quoted from themotherbrain:

Just a shot in the dark but perhaps its a ram issue? I had an arcade game that was freezing up on me and that wound up being the issue. The music would keep playing but the screen would freeze. The predictable timing is what is making me think it's a possibility.

I would think that as well but the game does exactly the same on atract mode, screen blacks out at 4min 30 seconds after turning game on (even if I have'nt even started a single game).

#6783 32 days ago
Quoted from erikie:

maybe a stupid question, have you tried hooking up your system using a serial cable to a terminal? The game spits out a lof of info on the serial port.
You get a black screen if the software falls back to monitor mode in XINA / XINU. You will see that in your terminal. Maybe nothing is wrong with your CRT at all ...

Not a stupid question at all, it's such a clever question that I don't quite understand, which one of the cables is the serial cable exactly?
You mean hook up the computer to the CRT with this cable?

#6784 32 days ago

Tested my SWEP1 computer on my game and I have the exact same problem, screen blacks out at 4 minutes 30 seconds as well, could it be my flyback that shouts down the screen like that?
I found this guy who had a similar problem : https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/screen-works-fine-and-then-goes-black.313606/

He says this at the end, Quote: Everything is working fine now.

I was reading through this page about how to ask the right question

http://antelopearcade.com/forum/yaf_...his-first.aspx

When I came across this paragraph;

"If your monitor has an adjustable B+, dial it in using the control. It's important that the B+ be set correctly. Running it too high will result in a picture that's too large, and could cause the monitor to go into shutdown to prevent the HV from going high enough to generate X-rays through the picture tube."

This explains my situation exactly. When I got the unit I adjusted the brightness, focus and THE SIZE OF THE IMAGE.

So my problem was an over voltage issue and also an easy fix. All I had to do was turn down the pot that controlled the screen size slightly.

#6785 31 days ago

I tried reducing screen size with the pot and I still have the same issue.
I'm starting to be quite discouraged, I just might leave this way, it still plays well after turning it on and off twice.

#6786 31 days ago

Did you use the same prism card from rfm or with the star wars card?

#6787 31 days ago

Yes, I switched prism cards from one computer to the other and tried with both computers and still the same.
I've got a weird question, that I'll explain explains afterwards: Can a magnetic field cause this kind of issue?
Can a magnetized cable or wire cause this kind of issue?
I'll remove the chassis again and this time I'll reflow every single solder joint, maybe there's something I did'nt/could'nt see when I checked last time.
Thanks for all of the help, I appreciate it.

#6788 31 days ago

Try booting with your star wars prism card. I seem to remember you taking that rfm one apart?

#6789 31 days ago

I did boot with my Star Wars prisme card but one thing I did'nt do yet was boot the game with another RFM prisme card (spare I have) which has the original Williams 1.1 game revision.

#6790 31 days ago

Just picked up a RFM!! Been a fan for years and I've finally been able to snag one. I'm in need of a few plastics, does anyone have a source for anything other than the obvious sling/outlane plastics?
Search is not bringing up much around the interwebs...

#6791 31 days ago

Here's why I asked about the magnetic field question: I bought SWEP1 cabinet art that were NOT decals but looked like giant fridge magnets (I don't know why Williams made these, I've never seen these kind of SWEP1 art before, once I got home with them, I realized that they were not magnetic, so, I bought the thinnest sheet of metal I could find, cut it out the exact dimensions of the 5 piece art set, glues it to the back of the art set, then I bought a pack of 10 very strong magnets off Ebay like these ebay.com link: itm
Stuck them with double face tape, 2 each side of the cabinet and 2 each side of the backbox, plus 2 in front to hold the small one under the coind door, each cabinet art is held, to not slip down, either by the cabinet protectors or the backbox bolts (see pictures) but the art itself is held (to not fall down) by the magnets.
The magnets were very carefully/stragicly placed to not harm the CRT or electronics, I've had no problems what so ever for the past year, and now I removed them for test purposes but realize that it does'nt eliminate my problem (yet), I suspected that, maybe, the magnetic field from these magnets might make the game go wacko. I've got more testing to do, we'll see. I've included pictures of the art and thickness of it as well.
Here are 2 videos of how the cabinet art works when I swap my game from RFM to SWEP1.

IMG_0490 (resized).JPGIMG_0490 (resized).JPGIMG_0491 (resized).JPGIMG_0491 (resized).JPGIMG_0495 (resized).JPGIMG_0495 (resized).JPGIMG_0496 (resized).JPGIMG_0496 (resized).JPGIMG_0497 (resized).JPGIMG_0497 (resized).JPGIMG_0498 (resized).JPGIMG_0498 (resized).JPGIMG_0499 (resized).JPGIMG_0499 (resized).JPGIMG_0500 (resized).JPGIMG_0500 (resized).JPG

#6792 30 days ago

Hey guys,
I'm in need of these 2 plastics. Anyone have a few spares in their hoarde?

IMG_2580 (resized).jpegIMG_2580 (resized).jpegIMG_2581 (resized).jpegIMG_2581 (resized).jpeg
#6793 30 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

Here's why I asked about the magnetic field question: I bought SWEP1 cabinet art that were NOT decals but looked like giant fridge magnets (I don't know why Williams made these, I've never seen these kind of SWEP1 art before, once I got home with them, I realized that they were not magnetic, so, I bought the thinnest sheet of metal I could find, cut it out the exact dimensions of the 5 piece art set, glues it to the back of the art set, then I bought a pack of 10 very strong magnets off Ebay like these ebay.com link: itm
Stuck them with double face tape, 2 each side of the cabinet and 2 each side of the backbox, plus 2 in front to hold the small one under the coind door, each cabinet art is held, to not slip down, either by the cabinet protectors or the backbox bolts (see pictures) but the art itself is held (to not fall down) by the magnets.
The magnets were very carefully/stragicly placed to not harm the CRT or electronics, I've had no problems what so ever for the past year, and now I removed them for test purposes but realize that it does'nt eliminate my problem (yet), I suspected that, maybe, the magnetic field from these magnets might make the game go wacko. I've got more testing to do, we'll see. I've included pictures of the art and thickness of it as well.
Here are 2 videos of how the cabinet art works when I swap my game from RFM to SWEP1.

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is very cool. I would like to do something like this. Unfortunately the last guy decided to stick on SWEP1 decals on one side of the RFM cab. He went half and half which I get...but don't really like.

#6794 30 days ago
Quoted from insight75:

This is very cool. I would like to do something like this. Unfortunately the last guy decided to stick on SWEP1 decals on one side of the RFM cab. He went half and half which I get...but don't really like.

You could do it......
All you would need is to get some giant plastics (about 1.5mm thick) laser cut to the size of these Decals:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/175233
Then you apply the decals to the plastics, buy a sheet of very thin metal, cut them to the right size, glue them on th plastics and buy these magnets and stick them in the cabinet, before doing this, be very carefull, those magnets are very strong and you could ruin your monitor or boards with them, I could guide you on that.......

#6795 30 days ago

Just tested without the magnets and nothing changes, screen still blacks out.
I'll call a technicien if I can find one.

Edit: Thanks everyone for the help, I appreciate it.

#6796 30 days ago
Quoted from GILV:

Not a stupid question at all, it's such a clever question that I don't quite understand, which one of the cables is the serial cable exactly?
You mean hook up the computer to the CRT with this cable?

Don’t know if you ever updated game code via a serial cable?
There should be a port when you open your coin door.

#6797 30 days ago
Quoted from qbass187:

I'm in need of these 2 plastics. Anyone have a few spares in their hoarde?

I'm pretty sure I've ordered both of these from pinball.center as single units.

#6798 30 days ago

I had someone help me with the update last year but I have'nt done any update lately, if that was your question.
I just might leave it this way.

#6799 30 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'm pretty sure I've ordered both of these from pinball.center as single units.

Yeah, they’re the only ones that seem to have them. Are they shipping to the US finally?

#6800 30 days ago

No. Doubt that will ever change. At least while someone continues to have the license rights

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