Thank you for the quick reply

I just finished the mod I wanted to do wirh the SWEP1 cabinet art I bought. I was thinking about doing this well before I retired from the hobby 7 years ago, when I had a pinball2000 kit as well (so I've been thinking about this for a very long time before I finally found a solution), but back then I had cabinet "decals" , now , what I bought looks a lot like decals but they are comparable to magnetic art work, they are of the same aspect, I even thought they were magnetic in the begining but they are not, I tested them on a fridge, I don't know why Williams made these, they are not decals and not magnetic, what's the use? anyway, I used them in another way, I bought very strong magnats, these: ebay.com link: itm on Ebay and put them in stratigic places in the cabinet and head (see pictures) I rivetted some polycarbonate plastics on the cabinet protectors and on the head bolts that hold the head to the cabinet, I bought a sheet of metal 0.29 mm thick,, this one: https://www.canac.ca/fr/tole-unie-galvanisee-3-pi-x-8-pi-3696 ,cut it out slightly smaller than the cabinet artwork, epoxy glued the art to the metal sheets and the results are what you see in the videos.

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You might end up distorting your CRT image with those magnets.

No, I checked, if I keep the magnets 4 inches or further of CRT or electronic boards, there is no magnetic field, thus, no danger what so ever....., Like I said, "I stratigcly placed those magnets" so that they don't break anything on the game.

Wow!!! That’s very cool!!!

Thanks Richard. Now, all I need to do is clearcoat these next summer so that they are up to my CC'ed RFM cabinet.

Hey all, I went to update my Nucore game to applejuice 2.5. I followed the video instructions exactly. There was one point where I had to delete the .nvram files. That was a little unclear. Some of mine were nvram1, nvram2 etc. in total, 7 files. That’s one more than the guy on the video had. I deleted them all (I screwed up, I knew better and that I should have just moved them to a different directory). Well, now I’m in an endless boot loop with Nucore. It gets to a little menu that looks like it’s updating, then crashes and reboots. Infinitely.

Any ideas? I have a friend that’s Linus savvy coming to help Saturday but if there’s a quicker fix, that would be good. I did see something about needing more than 4gb ram and I only had 4. But I happened to have an 8gb stick of the same type. I installed it and it is still looping.

Would a whole new Nucore install be the nuclear option? Anyone point me to that installer package?

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Use pinbox..

Sounds good. Is it still in development? A quick search didn’t bring up much. Anyone know a good link to the installation files or a downloadable package for the latest version of pinbox?

Anything to adjust from preventing the ball from going SDTM when the ball leaves the pop bumper area? This happens about 33% of the time. My guess is the side rails, but not much room for adjustments.

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I’m looking for documentation on how the prism card works, particularly how the flash and the ROM daughtercard are related.

My SWE1 is running 1.0, and I’m looking for the easiest path to 1.4. If I had my friend burn 10 new ROM chips, would that work? Or does the Prism Update Board (PUB card) have to be present? Really confused right now.

I believe the proms are static and the flash takes the update, so new proms won't do anything.

I found this info:

https://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/pin2000/notes/update.html

…and you’re right, the ROMs are OTPs and they’re just meant for a fallback.

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Looks like my best bet is to find (or build) a really old laptop with COM ports and install Windows XP on it. Or, I could try to get it working on VirtualBox.

Get a usb-serial port cable

Just use our new update software for windows 10 or Mac osx and our tested leads. Easy 2 minute job!!

Forget windows xp and shitty old laptops

Oh awesome - this will work with the original P2K hardware? I have a USB-to-DB9 adapter, and I’ve ordered the null modem adapter. I got as far as running fupdate on my Windows 10 laptop and realized I needed the null modem bit.

EDIT: never mind - I see the Original/PinBox selector.

Thanks,
John

Just installed these mirror blades on my game.

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Really like that idea. Might have to change the way I have mine.

Nice! Where did you get them!?
Never seen any for sale for a long time.

I bought them from this guy:
https://www.maaca.org/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=28078

I had never seen any for sale either.....
They only cost 80$ CAD, plus shipping.

Yep, the trick was to throw away the one I bought 10 years ago, and get the new Sabrent one. Worked great with Windows 11 and fupdate.

I got my rfm updated with a standard usb stick and applejuice excellent manual update instructions and roms. I swear I’m hearing new callouts. Definitely got the drop target hurry up (I think that’s new?).

Now planning on putting in the extended trough and his other cool add-ons. And maybe modding the auto plunger to allow permanent plunger attachment for swep1. Is it worth it?

applejuice any plans to update code on swep1? Do you have a playfield?

You can try putting washers under one side of the scoop. This worked for me on Rush.

6 ball trough is awesome. Highly recommend adding it.

Yes there are new sound calls ( unused and rare speech from the original wms sound roms) added and speech expanded in many places.
Yes the drop target hurry up was one of the first new features I added

Swep1 I would love to do something similar. I have a nos populated playfield but I don’t have a complete source dump, only partial so it’s not possible until it get a full one. Asked many times to various people but no success.

.

I just installed a shaker motor. When the power is set to anything below 75%, the motor does not activate all the time. When the power is set to 100% it activates when it should but it’s too strong. Any idea what could be causing this?

I realized I ordered the stern “spike” system motor. I’m guessing that’s my problem. Going to order the SAM system and hopefully good to go.

I was so excited to have SWE1 and RFM together, I signed up to bring them both to Southern Fried Gaming in July. I’m having hernia surgery in mid-June, so it’ll be…interesting. I think it’ll be fine since I’ll have help from friends.

So the backglass lift channel on my RFM broke. Looking to replace all of the trim on the translite but I believe the size is non-standard? It's onsite currently so I can't measure it - can someone please let me know if a standard WPC95 kit will fit (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-942X) or if there is something else I should be ordering? I haven't seen anything for sale specific to Pin2000.... Thanks!

<EDIT> For reference, the bottom lift channel trim for the translite is 22" long, the sides are 12.5" each, and the top is slightly shorter than the bottom (~19.5"). I'm buying WPC95 trim and cutting to size as I don't see anything for Pin2000 anywhere.

I got to check could be that I got a SWE1 rom set somewhere at home, is there a unique identifier of this rom set?

Any thoughts on why this is happening? The shaker motor seems too powerful so I lowered the intensity to 50% in the menu. It feels just right. But some of the stronger vibrations that are supposed to be triggered during certain mode endings are VERY weak compared to the rest. During those weak vibrations, there is a high pitched buzzing from the motor. Other than that it feels fine. When set to 100% intensity there is no buzzing sounds but it’s too powerful. Thanks for any help figuring this out.

Just installed the ultimarc video amp in a Ducksan Monitor and am having issues.

First let me point out that I have installed many Video amps in Wells Gardner Monitors without issue.

The amp appears to be working as the images are all bright as the amp is intended to do.

However I now have jumping images, the convergence is off, the screen is not really in focus and I can now see that the entire image is tilted.

Are these cap issues or neck adjustment issues? Is there something in the Amp connection that could cause this?

In game play the images are bright but a little out of focus not much and the screen is horizontally stretched sometimes at top sometimes in the middle.

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I have installed the amp without any issue.
Where have you installed the amp?
Not too close to the monitor ?
Perhaps a magnetic issue.

I also have a ducksan monitor and I've made my research and read a lot about them having issues and problems with the altimarc video amplifier, that's why, after more searching, I bought a cap kit for the chassis, I've read that only that can really brighten the monitor, so I opted for this solution to avoid problems.

I have a duckscan and used applejuice 's video amplifier. No issues.
It looks to me that you need to adjust the contrast and maybe brightness after putting the amplifier in place.
I had to do this with mine.

Definitely looks like brightness/contrast other adjustments to the monitor and possibly the flyback. I had to do this after I installed mine: https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=67477

Have you adjusted the actual monitor's pots like the flyback focus and remote board horizontal hold? You often have to adjust these after making changes or just over time as things age.

Yes I have tried that as well as the Brightness and Contrast to no avail.

I will make a video to show the screen jumping in areas and the horizontal deflection in areas.

What is odd is that the jumping happens only in certain screens.

The slight blurryness can be minimalized by turning down the brightness but only to a point. In doing so the screen becomes so dark that it cancels out the installation of the video amp.

If you can't get it to focus no matter what, then the flyback transformer may need to be replaced. Do a cap kit as well while you're in there.

It looks like a monitor sync issue. Check both the white wire, and all of the ground wires that you have bundled together and make sure everything is making good contact on the video amp. I would back off the screw, check them/ twist the wires together, and then retighten.

Does look like a ground issue. Check this thread/post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-video-amp-install-advise-ducksan/page/2#post-1398573

Rechecked all of the connections and they are solid!

Reworked the Control PCB and installed the jumper to replace R4 as per the Ducksan info on the topic.

Now by using the Control PCB H-Posi the Menu windows are clear.

Note however that the digits in the time and the PM are crooked.

Entering any test in the diagnostics menu Brings up the crazy crooked images.

The jumping remains in the game.

I did manage to get the flyback to focus just a hair better but not much.

So the take is, rechecking and tightening the wires at the video amp did nothing.

Reworking and cleaning the Control PCB allowed the Diagnostics window to be stable and readable thats about it.

Cap kit is on the way.

I did try flexing all video cables and connections to see if the screen would be altered but it had no effect so the connections do appear to be very good.

I banged on the head to see if maybe something on a video board was loose and or shorting and nothing on the screen changed.

This is a first having working on a monitor and it figures its a ducsan LOL

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Examine every solder connections everywhere in that monitor. This screams cold solder joint.
If youre 100% sure the monitor worked without the video amp, remove it and re-verify.

Unless there is a mfg defect with the video amp... I cant explain the behavior. The amp shouldn't cause the problem you're indicating by itself

Yes once I get the caps I will completely Clean and rework the boards

I wanted to remove the amp to see if it has an issue but like a dope I cut the original cable to install the amp. Looking for a stock cable.

That tracks. So excited to get that mod installed that we don't take precautions to ensure it's reversible. Good Luck.
I'm pretty sure that's why I went with the applejuice amp... simple; reversible and I got to support his RFM work.

Thanks for letting me know about this Amp, I did'nt even know he made these, I'll surely buy one after recapping my monitor chassis, the monitor will be so bright we won't see anything else on the playfield.....

Edit: I can't find it on his site, where did you buy it?