Did you have to modify it at all or was it plug and play with the loom?

I looked into it when I purchased the 6 ball but got confused on which motors needed a diode installed and which didn't, etc. so I didn't do it.

Thank you for quick answer
I will order these 2 parts.
Will let you know when done

Anyone can recommend on lcd monitor I replace it with Dell 19 I don't like the results

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The only thing I can't remember is if the inline fuse came with the loom or not. I think I ordered one separately. Other than that, the wiring is simple. Wire the loom to the toys as pictured. The shaker and knocker will require a diode to be soldered in. I crimped mine in the molex connectors. Plug one connection at the front of the board one at the back. They are connected to unused ports on the pcb. Really simple install. I had it working in a few minutes. It makes a world of difference in gameplay too.

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https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/103#post-6787842

Just my 2 cent: there is also the Dell 2007FP solution, quite cheap on ebay (it's an almost 21 inches monitor, if you find 2007FPB is the same). Drops in perfectly, bigger, 4:3, very good contrast and blacks (IPS) and you could also add a scanline generator like I did, and looks really "crt like" scanlines. Crt is the real thing (I know..) but I fixed like this some friends RFM's (my Crt died two times and I decided for the Lcd dark side route) and they were super happy like me.

RFM_scan_1 (2) (resized).jpg

RFM_scan_2 (2) (resized).jpg

RFM_scan_3 (2) (resized).jpg

All the mods are reversible, but this game is never leaving my collection. The subwoofer assembly is attached to the game because I take it to conventions/expos like California Extreme (caextreme.org).

Dang so from what I can tell its always pulsing even at max power, so I would need a capacitor or something in line? Otherwise i'm pulling power from elsewhere.. Which sort of defeats the purpose for me trying to use OEM bulb connections.

daveyvandy-

As far as that broken standup target, I have these "guard" stickers that have a little foam behind the print, like those old school poofy stickers, its really held up well and just dampens the initial hit so those standups last longer, I also like the feel they give for the game, barely noticeable but not such a violent smack when you hit a target.. I cant find them anymore but anyone else use them? I've had RFM for ~7 years and never broke any and they are still stuck good..

PXL_20220321_192707606 (resized).jpg

Hello,
I was trying to see of 23 inch monitor fit in the machines
It's looks good any opinions?

20220321_204934 (resized).jpg

How do the projections line up during gameplay??

Perfect lineup

After a few days of testing and adjustments, it was able to use acer 23.8, and its looks perfect

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Aren't the tractor beams meant to line up with the ramps?
Looks squished horizontally.

I would think the easiest to show alignment is Martian position during Paris.

Got a shipping notice today, so these are finally shipping.

Hi, I totally ordered one too

When updating has anyone had the update start, then stop. Trying to figure it out with applejuice buy thought I'd see if it is a set up issue or something I'm doing wrong.

All original hardware (and 1.1 software).
In the box the leads were not connected to the proper pins so I rectified that.

Any ideas?

You probably have issue with the leads PM me I will try help you I updated 2 machines with no issues

I did, the very first time. I did the following:
- reseated the connectors
- turned screen saver and power management off (standby and such)
- lowered the baudrate for the updating process

After that I haven't had a problem since with multiple updates, but I'm not sure if one of the above helped or that it was just coincidence.

Ok. I will try those things (some I have tried already)

Hi Pinballers,
shaker and knocker installed.
Ordered in Smallcab.net in France, was really low price and extra fast delivery.
Tested, all is working fine.
I added fuseholder from a Gottlieb, 2.5 A for the shaker, 3 A for the knocker.
Thanks to you for the advices.
Just waiting for the loom and 6 balls kit from My Pinball, and the setting will be perfect.
Shipped today, should have soon.
IMG_20220329_102156 (resized).jpg
IMG_20220329_102427 (resized).jpg

My thought on this is maybe the internal pin2k serial cable is worn and only works at 9600 baud. Updates are done at higher speeds than this. So maybe I’ll have to reintroduce the lower speeds on the update app as options again

Ok. Perhaps we can try that.

Edit: would the internal serial cable wear if it's never been updated??

If it's a poor-quality cable it can have transmission errors. Bad or missing shielding, etc. Remember it's in proximity to a high RF/EMI interference source - the CRT monitor, if you still have one in the machine.

Good point. Plus the heat factor if the fan ever failed.

Trying to find replacements but coming up empty thus far.

As I have not got any answer, I ask again :
I want to add a blue spotlight on the right side of the playfield (mirroring the spotlight on the left side).
Where would you connect the wires, as there is no GI on RFM, only controlled bulbs ??

Thx a lot

Perhaps tap into the spotlight that you wish to mirror. That way, they will turn on at the same time, if that is your desired effect.

Step 1: buy the lamp
Step 2: figure out how to make it the topper

Gotta level it out up top I guess right? And a bit nervous that the clear beam part doesn’t fasten down, just rests up top. I guess no more nudging

image (resized).jpg

Try alien tape maybe?
I can't remember, is there a spare USB port on the PC inside of RFM? Wondering how you can power sync the topper.

I got mine in but it'll be some time before I get to my project.
How do you mean? The clear "glass" tractor beam doesn't secure to anything on the lamp?

I just bought this lamp - the clear glass is acrylic - it locks into the saucer (insert and twist lock), but it just rests on the green grass pad, no attachment, lift on and off. The cow has a hoof shaped to insert into a hole in the grass pad, also not "locked" in.

Mine just sits on top and has been fine for years. I'm not a big pinball nudger so its not been a problem. Sometimes the cow gets tipped over (no pun) but that's it.

What did you do to set it on top? I imagine I need to create a platform for it to sit on that’s level.

My RFM won't boot...

I have reseated the Prism card a 10 times by now.. This was a previous problem and it did the trick getting the game to boot when the prism got reseated.

I have replaced the std 3v accessible battery. No help.

What is the best way to separate the Prism cards in order to access the 2nd sandwiched battery ? It was kind of hard to source but I finally got a new 3v battery for that slot as well.

1. If this battery is dead, could it be the culprit ?

2. Someone wrote the sandwiched battery is purely a back up and won't play a difference... True or not ?

3. My main version of the board does not have the capacitors that are prone to leaking according to PinWiki.

4. There is another slot where the Prism card could go in to.. Should I try that slot also ? Same functionality ?`

Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Matt

Hi Pinballers,
everything inside, 6 balls kit and loom for shaker and knocker.
Working fine, the Clac of the special is so nice, and the ground is shaking under the pinball
Just had to swap the ballthrough cards emitter and receiver.
Took them from my Worldcup Soccer 94.

I have soldered the opto delivered with the kit, 2 emitters and 2 receivers, I think I put these in the right place short legs checked, but it never worked.
Now the optos are broken, they didn't liked soldering and unsoldering.

I will order new opto pieces from pinball center in Germany , and also complete boards to be secured.
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Most common problem installing trough parts is putting the black receivers in backwards. The williams silkscreening confuses the install often. Remember, receiver short leg/flat side is emitter and is not tied to common on the PCB. Represented on williams PCB by lug/nodule

Hi applejuice,
I have soldered the 2 receivers, dark, flat side up.
Same for the 2 emitters, white.
All the other receivers were flat side up on the board, as on the manual.
A pic of manuals, RFM and Worldcup Soccer.
And the boards with my soldering.
I have tested the circuits, contacts are all OK from the opto legs to the plugs.
IMG_20220403_104145 (resized).jpgIMG_20220403_104119 (resized).jpgIMG_20220403_085653 (resized).jpg

please reread what I said , the receivers don’t always match the silkscreen as it’s 25-30 years later! And Williams opto boards silkscreen changed a few times to. So you need to check the schematic and the PCB traces first! Don’t just assume they are the same as the silkscreen

Flat side /short leg of receiver is emitter which is not connected to common on the PCB. It’s individual to each input.

Hi,
I have checked traces, I don't understand why it didn't worked.
Please confirm :
dark and clear leds have both short legs on the flat side.
This short leg have to be connected to which place?
Sorry about that, I am a bit lost.

I think I have burned the Leds when soldering.
I have ordered new pieces, will try.
Another question :
anyone has this message when testing the checksum roms?
Another French owner and I have this message after setting 2.24.
But otherwise the pinball is working totally fine.

20220404_180345 (resized).jpg

Yes, I got the same error message. Game is working without issue despite this error message, so I decided just to ignore it after few reinstall to ensure this wasn't coming from a bad update

Nothing really. The top of the machine has enough of a ledge. I guess you could get some “museum” paste or adhesive. Its used to secure items on a shelf. It’s not permanent and is sold in Amazon or Michael’s.

Can anybody point me in the right direction ?

This worked for me when my pc stopped turning on. Not sure if this is what you mean when you say it won’t boot, but my pc would not power on at all when I turned on the switch. I removed the pc from the game and plugged it into a power outlet. I opened the top, removed the power switch jumper from the prism card to the mother board and turned the power switch to the pc on. Then I jumped the power switch pins with a small screwdriver and the pc started up. I shut down the pc and put everything back together and started the machine up and it worked.

Hi,
I received the parts.
I begun with the small opto boards on my World cup soccer.
One was not working.
After testing all combination,
I had to solder the wires on the blue board, with black DEL, E and C letters printed, reversed compared to the originals.
Other side, green board with K and A, same soldering as the originals.
I think It is the same problem with the ball through board.
Will have to test.

Thanks for the input here. My computer powers on, the red light on the computer case lights up.. Fans are running. This looks to be another solution.

1. I want to start by changing the battery that is sandwiched inbetween.

2. It measures 3v on the outside battery holder when game is turned off and battery is not under load.

Has anyone split the Prism cards ever ? Any special approach doing this, looks delicate ? Is the Prism battery a show stopper if not supplying the 3v ?

Thanks
Matt

do you have a serial cable to be able to read the console logs during boot? then you have a lot more information about what goes wrong.

I'm sure there is a special tool for splitting the prism card... I'm also pretty sure it has been discussed here in this thread.
I'm also pretty sure a low /dead battery wouldn't kill the motherboard from booting. At worst it would lead to a checksum error and halt the boot prior to handing off to the prism card roms.

I'm also pretty sure somewhere there is a discussion on how to troubleshoot the PC on a bench with a VGA monitor.
That'd be my first stop to determine if the motherboard is at least booting the bios and hanging for an error message.