I'd try a white fine tip Sharpie on one of the numbers.
Up close you maybe would see a difference in shade, but when the
Score Reel is in position behind the backglass, I wouldn't be surprised
if it wouldn't be noticeable. Works good with black..

You're looking for Score Reel coils? I can send you 3 or 4 for a buck a piece plus shipping..

Pindel, From that angle, I couldn't see the armature's tail, but that tail should spring out maybe about
5/16" When sticking out, the cam should turn freely. When the armature is inward (which it does when
energized) is when the armature should turn the cam (gear motor), and also the cam would have
quite a bit of resistance when turning by hand from the armature being in.
If the cam turns hard while the motor is in a resting position, then the armature must not be springing
out. The reason would be that the small spring at the other end inside of of the gear box must be out of
position..

Back in the 90s, I found that quite a few times on Ball Bowler motor wipers. That's why I always
heavily recommend to lube the steppers and especially the Score Motor's wiper boards.
Usually I was able to file off the worn rivet, and replace with a new. But when worn that bad,
I would solder on another blade underneath the worn one. Last month, I had a wiper from a
1956 Shuffle and all 4 blades' rivets were heavily worn, so I experimented and cut off maybe an
1/2" off each end, and epoxied blades with good rivets underneath the originals. I didn't clamp it,
just formed it and let it sit. I did one at a time so I wouldn't disturb it while working on another.
After all were epoxied, I spot soldered each one so that it would have true electrical connection.
Soldering the blades on worked, but the epoxy seems to look a little cleaner. The wiper works fine..

Bill, as you requested, here's a couple pics of the wiper I last epoxied.
Note: When the roll of solder came in it turned out to be like 1/32" diameter
if that. Terrible stuff for what I do with it, so the solder joints don't look to
clean, but it's the epoxy that gave it its strength. The spot solder is only so
the added blade had true conductivity.
Since the camera was out, I took a couple pics of the bowler (that a long
time Buddy that owns a 7 bay garage) will be receiving in trade for work to be
done on my Cuda and 1946 Plymouth. The Shuffle is a 1954 United Eastern
League Team Bowler that I had stached for maybe 25 years. I already stained the
hardwood on the head so once on, I won't have to take it off until it goes to its next
destination.
Also note the bowler I did before this one's nice original coin door that someone jig
sawed the lock out of..

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Yes Bill. Applying numbers is like night and day. Without them they're too bland.
Back in the 90s, I put out ball bowlers, and still have 6 out and put the numbers
on them all. Makes a big difference on their appearance..

On Shuffles, now and then I sweep and vacuum off the wax (powder), then Lemon Pledge it
before putting on fresh wax..
On the Ball Bowlers, now and then I'll use a cleaner and scotch brite to erase the ball marks which eventually
will accure, but never wax. Actually, on the MBA (and 20 footers I had out), some like to hook the ball which
wax would make difficult. So since the ball rolls and not slides like the pucks, no wax is needed, and probably
all around best not to have it waxed..

No problem Bill..
A couple missing links should be arriving before long..

Repairing the wiper yourself will 100% work as long as the new blade is epoxied in the proper
position so that its rivet rides directly on its row of wiper board's rivets.
I think it slipped my mind to answer your question. I've used Gorrila Glue epoxy but any 2
part epoxy will be strong and I use it for multiple purposes. At Walmart, Locktite epoxy is like
$4.00. I've made complete wipers by placing the blades and insulators in their proper positions,
but epoxying that one blade will be much easier.
I just slightly bend the new blade until its curvature matches the wiper's blade curvature that it's going
to be adhered to. Then I epoxy it on the underside of the original blade. You may have to snip
the tip of the end of the original blade so it doesn't interfer with the top of the new blade's rivet..
I posted this already after you asked, but here's the pic once again of the wiper I repaired earlier
this month. All five blades on this wiper were badly worn..
btw: I mix the two part epoxy on a paper with a tooth pick, then after mixed, I spread it on the original
blade with a tooth pick then carefully place the new blade in position, and let it sit. After it's set (I think
12 hours, but I let it sit 24 hours), I spot solder the end of the blade to insure the new and original blades
have good conductivity..
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Well Bill, the way that one is worn on yours, now makes me wonder what the others look like,
but I sent you two blades so you'd have an extra thinking only the one needed to be replace..
I replace all on that one only because all were very worn. I wouldn't mind seeing a pic of the
other side of your wiper to be able to see the rivets. I don't expect they all need replacing, but
I can send you more blades if needed..

The others has wear, but as long as the wiper board is going to be lubed,
there's much life on them. You'll be playing that machine only a fraction
of what it already has been played, and you'll be playing with it lubed.
I'd only replace the one, and then check it after a year, and bet you'll find
no further noticeable wear..

You didn't get that envelope yet? I put it in the Post Office's mail box (I believe) last Sunday.
It had two blades and a couple coil plates and springs for the Bank Relay coil.
Mail must be running slow this week. Did you check your mail box yet today. I just received
someones envelope today that was mailed out early Monday..

It seems the 2nd Shot Relay energizes, or is already in the energized position,
or a 2nd Shot Relay switch is closed when suppose to be open after rolling the first ball.
And then the Relay Bank isn't energizing which like Chris said, that switch runs off the
Score Motor's cam and closes then reopens just before the Score Motor comes back to home.
It could possibly also be a dirty closed switch in the Score Control Relay for why the Relay
Bank's coil is not energizing..

Also, if you manually step up the other players' Strike/Spare Step Up units,
and then start a game, do they also not reset?

It appears the #6 Pin Relay in the Reset Bank is energizing, although the #6 pin's not going up.
I'd check the #6 pin set of switches on the pin deck to make sure that they're making good
contact with each other when the pin is down..
Also, you'll want to check the closed switches in the #6 Pin Relay in the Relay Bank when that
relay is in the energized position that they have good contact (and cleaning)..

You're referring to when the 2 or 3 pins go back up, right?
It's not the switch on the pin reset motor.. I'm sure the rollovers are
free and not sticking. It has to be those Pin Relays in the Relay
Bank isn't latching. Perhaps the plate(s) are magnetized. The next
time it happens, go in back of the machine and see which Pin Relays
(in the Relay Bank) are in the tripped (energized position..
btw: That pin reset switch is on the way..

It's very unlikely all those relay plates would be magnetized.
Perhaps the Relay Bank isn't resetting very strongly. I'm sure you
cleaned the switch off of the score motor's cam that resets the
Bank Relay. You don't really have to take it apart, but I would
clean the Bank Relay's coil plunger by spraying Lemon Pledge
on a paper towel..
Also, this only happened to me once where the slide bar that resets
the pin relays was sticky and actually was giving the coil plates that
it comes in contact with a little twist, and every so often it caused a
couple of pin relays not to latch and reset. What I did was spray Carb
Cleaner (or Paint Thinner, ect.) on a paper towel, and cleaned the slide
bar and plates that the bar comes in contact with, and then lubed the
slide bar..
Perhaps it's contacts too close together in some other pin relays and
at times they make contact from the vibration when resetting, but once
again, I wouldn't think that the case with that many relays not latching..

That's what I did also, but with bowlers in taverns, restaurants, ect., eventually the tape would wear
and then the stickim from the tape held in the plate, so I used a piece of paper, but in time, the paper
would thin out, so I finally went with a piece of a cheap white paper plate, and that was long lasting.
For the first time ever, I recently had a magnetized plunger in a coil and although I could get to the
plunger itself, it would have been a pain to get out, so I filed as much of the circumference of the plunger
that I could, and that did the trick..

You probably were in the 10th Frame and the Frame Reel skipped a beat.
There should be an end of stroke switch on the frame unit that when stepped
up, the switch makes and steps up the frame reel. You might want to check
that switch out..
If it's because the score more is running slow and the pins are resetting before
the Relay Bank is reset, the problem usually goes away as the game is played and
the score motor warms up, but are you certain the Bank Relay is resetting before
the pins are in the down position? If the Bank resets just in time, the pins will lock
and stay down, but the coil plates will make a clicking chatter..

No, I can't see how that switch's timing is off.
It's not uncommon for a score motor to run slow.
Most of the time cleaning and then a couple drops of light weight
oil on the armature's tail will do the trick, but at times I had
to take the motor apart and clean and re-lube.
Yours shouldn't be running slow, I just thought it would be nice
if a slow running score motor could 100% be eliminated to being
the problem.. There are switches in pin relays that activate other pin
relays, and if there adjusted too close together, they can make when the
Bank resets from vibration and energize they're coils, but you have
many pins going up to think that would be the problem.
If the rollover switches are adjusted correctly and the rollovers
aren't sticking, I'm not sure how the pin relays are re-energizing..

Yes, that's what suppose to happen, and although probably not the problem, but the biggest question
is if the Bank resets just before the pins come downward and latch.

It was a free fix. I didn't charge anything for that switch.
I hope the machine continues to play well, but I don't
understand how that switch alone fixed the problem.

I like to say, when putting the formica on the lane, you'll want to first contact cement
1/8" thick cork to the plywood, then contact the formica to the cork. If contacting the
formica directly to the plywood, the rolling of the ball will create an unnatural and an
unpleasant sound..

On the backside of the lock, instead of a flat stock, a gear is bolted on.
When the key is turned, the gear rides in the grooves of both of the rods,
and travels one upward, while the other travels downward.
I'll see about getting a pic tomorrow.

United used this type of coin mech and box in the late 50s and early 60s on their shuffles.
I have a couple machines missing theirs, so I need to hang onto the parts I have, but I'm
sure Chris has extras around. If you'd like it totally complete, the backside has a covering
plate.

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I noticed in your video that it seemed the game reset before the Bank Coil energized, so you wouldn't think
the Start Relay had a worn plate and was caused from vibration, but maybe it wouldn't hurt to inspect the
Start Relay to make sure that the plate has a good grip on the contact's plate.
You can also check the switches in the Coin Relay to make sure the opened ones aren't too close together..

4 ft. makes a big difference. Once all set back up, that 6 ft. will seem like 12 ft. No kidding.
It'll be like night and day and make for a much nicer and challenging game..

Looking good Bill. This might sound strange, but if needed, bondo not only is best
for filling (which we all know), but I found it to take stain the best also. Not perfect,
but not bad..

I have used them for pulling car door panels, but they're actually known as tack pullers.
I had one for years and one of the fork tips broke, and with no luck at Lowes or Home
Depot, I googled Tack Puller and ordered a set of 3 for like 9 bucks. Handy little tool..

After taking a 2nd and closer look at Bill's tool, it is a panel puller.
The V doesn't come to a tight point..

Bill, that 3 prong female plug plugs directly into the rear of the coin tray that
holds the coin mech that slides in and out..

Good job Bill! I'm sue that bowler's like night and day for the good.

I once had a 20 ft. Chicago Coin Ball Bowler out in a Tavern, and in one month it
took in $1,050.00 at 50 cents per play. One of those weeks in that month it took
in $330.00 It seems almost physically impossible, but it happened..

And, "Bowling Shoes Required"

Yea Bill. It was by far the best week and month I've seen..
That same bowler is now in the local VFW, and unless there's a
gathering with Kids, it never gets played. The Adults seem to mostly
just sit at the bar and drink. (A buck a draft. Can't really blame them).
The Aladens Castle gets played, but not that Bowler.
I have a 14' small ball in a Restaurant, and that gets played regularly
by Kids and Adults..