This is an amazing product. I put these on my twilight zone before it was faded and dinged up and now it looks great. I strongly recommend these if your decals are faded, banged up or destroyed. These are simple and are very easy to put on. They also are very quick and take a fraction of the time to put on compared to regular decals.

I did have trouble cutting the hole to the Start button it did not look good. I recommend that people buy a pinball 2000 start button. Pinball 2000 start buttons cover up the cut you make like flipper buttons because they have a lip. I bought two and transferred the extra ball legend from the old button to the new one.

Overall radcals are amazing products. They make installing decals easy and I am very satisfied with how wonderful they look.

53FDA0F8-15AD-41C3-A861-C01DAAD321A1 (resized).jpeg

697B5F47-3CDB-4A7F-AA1C-EA276F20EA16 (resized).jpeg

91854825-1E61-4654-B674-AFCDB5338A1E (resized).jpeg

95799A68-C50D-425F-85D0-196BCEFEF250 (resized).jpeg

E349E097-2BBF-47D5-BA9C-0B1328B5C3AA (resized).jpeg

My opinion only. But I would somehow figure out a way to cut out the start button hole and ditch the system 2000 start button. Here’s my TAF The start button hole is a off-center but it’s a clean cut.

63F30F22-A8C6-43BA-B083-7C7ECBAD595B (resized).jpeg

I used a spade bit to drill flipper holes and start button holes on my Bride of Pinbot. If you shine a light through the hole from the inside, you can measure the hole to find the center point and the perfect sized spade bit. Poke a small guide hole at the center point with a tiny drill bit, and then your spade bit should be able to cut the hole perfectly. If you drill from inside, the hole in the cabinet will be your guide to keep the spade bit centered.

Is that my old TAF??

Yes!

So I’ve completed my Safe Cracker spruce up. The Rad Cals look great. It is definitely a different look to the traditional screen printed cab or decals.

I’ve installed Next Gen decals on my Indiana Jones and the main difference I found was the Rad Cals needed way less sanding, as every little bump will show through the thinner decals, whereas with these you would still want to prepare the cab to a certain extent, but it just doesn’t have to be as smooth.

One point of warning: I recessed the cabinet bolts, which gives a nice clean look. However, doing this meant the very back bolts holding the playfield support rails were poking into the cabinet too far, which meant the playfield couldn’t go all the way into the cabinet. I had to file off the bolts by about half a centimetre which was a bit painful. Next time I’d source slightly shorter bolts.

115F4E7E-36A2-4472-B9F0-A57C3C4140E9 (resized).jpeg

560761D5-1708-4827-82B5-B53B55482533 (resized).jpeg

That slightly too long bolt is nothing a
Dremel can’t take care of.

Got mine today for tz and wh2o. Need to figure the tooling n stuff out but I’m counting on my bro who’s way more capable. Why risk? This with Brian Allen’s new side blades and back glass for wh2o, which have already shipped, will make this a completely new machine - with the freshest look of the lot

8F4B9D8C-DDFF-48C6-88FB-546D2D332F81 (resized).jpegE5A3BAAC-2971-4463-A105-4AF397164C74 (resized).jpeg

Doctor Who Love ?

After purchasing several sets of RADCALS, I needed to develop an easy/quick way to drill the holes (Start Button, Plunger Hole, Flipper Buttons). FWIW, here is what I came up with....

1) Use clamps to hold the RADCAL in place.
2) Use 3D printed plugs for each hole size. The plug is used to pilot the drill bit to create a perfectly centered hole (in preparation for drilling the larger hole with a hole saw). Note, make sure to have a backer board (2x4) so you get a clean hole.

IJ Plugs (resized).jpgIJ plug (resized).jpgIJ pilot hole backing (resized).jpgIJ pilot hole drilled inside the cab (resized).jpgIJ pilot holes (resized).jpg

3) Pre-drill (with hole saw) into scrap piece of wood (2x4).
4) Align the decal (with pilot hole) over the pre-drilled 2x4 hole. SLOWLY drill through the RADCAL from the backside.
5) Use a sharp knife to cleanup any residual plastic left from the drill
6) Align perfectly cut holes and attached.

IJ template 2x4 (resized).jpgIJ hole saw drill (resized).jpgIJ hole saw fully drilled (resized).jpgIJ start buttons drilled (resized).jpg

...I just used a dremel sanding drum and carefully went around the hole till it was flush... then touched up the paint...was pretty straight forward...wish I had known about the elevator bolts earlier...that's a good idea...those carriage bolts sticking out of the side always bothered me...where did you get those btw?

Are Twilight Zone radcals available?

Yep, just a quick search the market place.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1042-mircoplayfields/04038-twilight-zone-rad-cals-cabinet-art

Hope Getaway Radcals get made soon, they really make a game pop Babee!

Dremel and a drum sandpaper works perfect for holes. Just follow the wood with it.

T2 please !!

I used Forstner bits to drill the holes after the decals were affixed. Worked well and very clean holes.

I turned from the inside of the cabinet until the spur poked through, then drilled from the front side.

I’m going to keep asking for Corvette. Make it happen please

another option is to just use a 1/8" drywall router bit with guide point

I like that idea...do they make them for a dremel like that?

Thought I’d share my AFM that I put Rad Cals on a few months ago. The head bolts are exposed but for the main cabinet I used elevator bolts and hid below the Rad Cals.

I’m very happy with the result! Showing a before and after shot.

4E496EAE-9678-45B4-B79E-5BB8C1099C70 (resized).jpeg

86E2A487-26F6-4479-9A34-4E8385487FE6 (resized).jpeg

as long as you have a 1/8" collet should work fine. I use the rotozip brand guide point drywall bit

I used a compact router and small flush trim bit to cut rollover holes in my HS hardtop. I plan to do the same for my radcal button holes. I made a quick video to show how this worked.

I was also asked about the deburring tool I used; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L2XR4P2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Creature From the Black Lagoon radcals, where are they?

Holee crap man, nice work! I have to admit though, there was a slight amount of horror as I watched this video lol.

Nice!

any updates on new game availability?

Ordered Rad Cals for my Fish Tales. Didnt realize that the Rad Cals were cut for Entropy Coin doors only. My game came with a Coin Controls door. So you can see what happens at the corners. Bummer...

482980CF-98D0-45EA-8500-4935893BC360 (resized).jpeg

That would drive me crazy. I would contact him to see about another that would work or change the door.

Plus the start button not centred would annoy me.

Buy a new coin door, sell the old one at a slight discount

So I installed the correct Entropy door and it did cover the border. I can live with start button slightly off center.

5E249C79-E2E5-449F-A3E8-FF30B5FEF9B9 (resized).jpeg

67246343-3256-4F6C-BD53-A51C35D47193 (resized).jpeg

BCD31E24-FF94-4281-8AC5-01680AE77226 (resized).jpeg

FD283EC6-754E-43EF-8CB3-2A5AF3734E4A (resized).jpeg

Considering doing mine, good info about the coin door. I wonder why there isn't color bleed past the coin door cutout? Can’t be more than a few cents in ink.

How’s the print quality?

Those pictures look great.

The colors and quality are excellent. The rounded door frame for the Coin Controls coin door will not completely cover the cutout. The cutout should be reduced in size to the edge of the coin door hole to prevent this from happening. I used a black sharpie on the front edge of back box to eliminate the the white edge of the Rad Cal. That makes the Rad Cal look like it is an integral part of the back box. (blends it in)

How long did it take to ship to you?

Any suggestions on dealing with a bit of "overhang"? They really go right to the edges and I have a few mm of overhang in some spots on the backbox.

Sanding? Planing? Razor blade? Router + flush trim bit? Ignore?

If anyone has done it successfully let me know.

I went down the edges on the back of my backbox with a razor and then sanded. Fortunately it's the back of the backbox, so if you screw up, it's not that visible.

Please add me to the long list of owners asking for the Getaway. Thanks!

following

Picked up some radcals for TOTAN and was greatly disappointed in them. The black was faded on them to the point that it almost looks brown.

It's too bad, because I like the shiny look of radcals. The TOTAN ones are just garbage.

Any pics?

Here are the RadCals I installed.
20210927_140023 (resized).jpg
20210927_140154 (resized).jpg

Here is a picture from someone else's restoration for comparison.
82f25260966a1f2e91b437457d9502dcd4966d4a (resized).jpg

I know they're capable of printing dark black, as the RadCals on my Indy were really nice.
20210927_140051 (resized).jpg

If it makes you feel better, the brownish tone goes nice with your powdercoat (better than black would, IMO). But yeah, certainly not to expectations.

Almost looks like there's a plastic film on them or something? Do RadCals come with a peel-off protective coating like plastics?

Yes this is what his radcals do. They have faded off colours maybe because of the plastic topping.
I bought a set of cactus canyon radcals and the colours was also off. I told him and got the answer this is what I have . It is what it is. And if you complain I will never sell you anymore . I still have that massage....

WTF!

I think the ones I put on MM look amazing.

pasted_image (resized).png