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Quoted from chuckwurt:I think I’m 10 under stock on all flippers and that seems good. I have flipper fans too.
Have you done a test where you turn your fans off and check for fade - now that you have these flippers?
Some have suggested that it might be less necessary to run cooling...
Maybe a strange question for those with the halographics....
Is there any downside visually during play?
The reason I ask is that I find the couple of games I had on a stock Alien really difficult because I couldnt see the flippers. It was harder to time shots or something.
I mean I only discovered the 3rd flipper after my 1st game, and the 4th flipper sometime after that! lol
Quoted from mbeardsley:No, I don't feel that I have gotten an answer to this one basic question yet...
Why was a decision made to move the flipper rubber down from it's "historic" position to a position 1/16" lower? Is there some perceived benefit to this?
I keep being told it's "not about cost", "not about weight", and "not about ease of manufacturing".
If there is no perceived benefit to moving it, and no reason for moving it, why move it?
Perhaps it was just an oversight, and you don't feel the need to re-adjust it?
The only reason I even brought this up was that I looked at the two pictures posted by 1956pinhead, and thought "Wow, there are some significant differences there - I wonder why he chose to make those changes."
Furthermore, I am not trying to pick on his design - I'm trying to understand it.
The only reason I haven't already bought some of these is that I only own 3 machines, and two of them have no way to reduce the flipper strength (and WH20 mountains get broken too easily already). I may buy a set for my MBr, but seeing as how they are still going through some refinements, I will probably wait a while.
That was the other reason I brought this whole issue up, if there are still refinements being made, maybe one of them could be to adjust the rubber position back to the "historically expected position".
I'm not 100% sure but when I read the thread, I had the impression that there was a balance in the design to minimise weight while maintaining rigidity.
Potentially (John can correct me if I'm wrong here), the "missing bit" along most of the bottom is an effort to reduce weight.
I haven't seen any reason why the rubber is at a different height, and can't offer any insight as to whether it would make a difference, sorry.
Although it was something I noticed from the picture comparison before you mentioned it.
Quoted from DiabloRush:I feel your pain. Been there, done that. As I had a chance to playtest John's new keyed linkage, it solves this problem once and for all. Until then, consider this: with a new linkage, it's possible to over tighten them. I've found I just creep up on the proper tension. Tighten a bit and test. Repeat with small increments. If you just crank down on these, it deforms the linkage so badly that they won't clamp the shaft, even when the ends are touching. Terrible design, honestly, but its what we have. It's a stop gap for now.
For whatever reason, only the later-model JJP games seems to have this problem. I recently installed Precision Flip into both a Hobbit and WOZ, and each tightened up nicely on the stock linkages and didn't deform. Not the case on my GnR. Those linkages deformed like cooked pasta. This was then the testbed for the new keyed links using Stern EOS pawls. Works great, I'm glad to say. Solution in coming from John soon.
Does this issue only really effect JJP machines?
Has anyone had this happen on a Stern - specifically GZ?
Delivery is a pita for me so I had the idea I would wait until the new clamps were available and order everything I wanted/needed in one go.
but now I'm wondering if I need the clamp (more importantly, regret getting them)
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