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I like the look and the idea of improving flipper performance. At first glance I thought the top holes were there to key the bat to the shaft but that doesn't appear to be the case. One concern I have is with the spline/bat interface stripping. Is locktite used on the top screw?
Quoted from lemmings418:Wasn't looking forward to peeling off the Bone toppers from Back Alley Creations each time I need to tweak something on my GnR LE flippers.
I guess you could always tweak them from the bottom.
Quoted from Sorokyl:based on the amount of "I installed these and immediately got new high score" I am doing something terribly wrong. I played 800 games on my GZ before the mod, as the only pin I have, so it took me a while to adjust but 50 games later or so I'm right back to where I was... (close enough. I've cracked a billion several times before mod and haven't hit it yet on these)
I could certainly tell the difference at first, but I've gotten used to it now and have pretty much the exact same playing experience I had before! I can't really name one shot that is much different with these flippers. Not that there was any such advertisement - just offering a counter experience to all of the glowing reviews.
Sounds a little like my experience when trying a new tennis racket. I've wondered why it usually seems like magic at first, then it's back to my same old game. Perhaps it has something to do with being more focussed when trying something new.
I've read that some people have had to adjust their lane guides after intalling these flippers to prevent flipper hop. Is this unusual or are they actually wider than standard? If standard size, any thoughts as to what may be causing this?
Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:My solution to the factory flipper shaft link arm clamps. No more having to torque the snott out of those clamping screws. When available these will make it super simple to install the flipper shafts and eliminate the possibility of the shafts turning in the clamp. These will only work with my system since flipper position is set above the playfield. Testing is underway now, hope to have them available as an option in the near future. They will be sold with the flipper shafts of course.
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I like your keyed solution. How do you plan to handle the various return spring and EOS lever configurations from different manufacturers?
Quoted from Vespula:Can we possibly play around with halo wall thickness to start to control amount of bounce/ flex? How did the current thickness get determined?
Like pool cues have have thickness, halo may benefit from accommodating different versions with different levels of flex achieved by wall thickness.
That's an idea, but maybe diminishing returns given there's only 24 hours in a day. 
I'm looking forward to seeing what other mods he has in mind.
Quoted from DeeGor:Yes. I added them to my Twilight Zone, and they are a bit too strong. I'm looking into which coils would make sense for the bottom flippers, but I'm not sure what to go with. I think I'm going to try adjusting the end of stroke switch gap, to see if I can weaken them slightly. I'm not sure if that will work, but it doesn't cost me anything to try.
I wouldn't add them to White Water without getting weaker coils. That game is already prone to breaking plastic with normal flippers. These would just increase the chances of breakage.
Has anyone tried adding an extra return spring to reduce the power?
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:The gap between glass and top of a flipper bat on The Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends is 1.993". With the Halo bats shorter overall thickness that would be 2.243".
Not sure where you're seeing the 1/4" difference in height. Judging from the photo, I see the top of the halo flipper at about 1/16" lower than the top of the plastic flipper, as is the top of the flipper rubber on the halo compared to the plastic.
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