Howell, MI
Can someone explain how to use the included tool to adjust the flippers from the top side?
(Topic ID: 318895)
Jimmyhonda The small flat metal block (tool) with the three holes in it align with the holes in the top of the flipper. This small metal block is used to assit in the removal of the flipper from it's shaft, that is it's sole purpose. In some cases you will need to use this tool to help 'Pop' the flipper off of it's shaft.
The procedure is: Remove the flipper retaining screw first, postion the metal block over the flipper, install the two small 5-40 screws (by hand), then thread the 6-32 x 1-1/2" phillips head screw into the middle hole and run it down until it bottoms out against the flipper shaft. Once the flipper is free from it's shaft, you can then position the flipper (by hand) to any angle you want, then simply retighten the retaining screw.
Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:Ok everyone, just 45 minutes left in the 'Name that flipper Bat' competition. Any last minute suggestions need to come in quickly. I will review and notify the winner (or winners) prior to announcing on this forum a little later today.
Shame I was late for this party, my suggestion would have been
AlphaBat (using the Halo bat image as the A)...still, next version release maybe, lol.
They are cool and something I'll be getting for my AIQ and GZ soon hopefully.
Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:Jimmyhonda The small flat metal block (tool) with the three holes in it align with the holes in the top of the flipper. This small metal block is used to assit in the removal of the flipper from it's shaft, that is it's sole purpose. In some cases you will need to use this tool to help 'Pop' the flipper off of it's shaft.
The procedure is: Remove the flipper retaining screw first, postion the metal block over the flipper, install the two small 5-40 screws (by hand), then thread the 6-32 x 1-1/2" phillips head screw into the middle hole and run it down until it bottoms out against the flipper shaft. Once the flipper is free from it's shaft, you can then position the flipper (by hand) to any angle you want, then simply retighten the retaining screw.
[quoted image]
That was easy! Thanks! Should the flipper screw really be tightened down with a lot of torque?
Yeah, I installed a set of solids on a "Pioneer" - as Jeff said, they look different - more tapered than the originals, but I love the way they play! John advised me on which bushing to use.
Didn't see any noticeable difference in power (which is good since there's really no easy way to adjust that), but I do like the consistency.
Jimmyhonda Yes, you do want the flipper retaining screws tight. Just make sure to insert the hex wrench all the way into the screw. Reach out to me by phone or drop me a PM if you have any specific questions or you just want to chat if needed.
Thanks!
I've bought up quite a few sets of these and in general I think I am liking them!
I have a question for the manufacturer. Have these been put through stress testing? I am curious if metal fatigue will be a thing? The metal is pretty thin and they take a pretty good beating.
ASAC_Schrader Thank you for giving these a try, glad you are liking them.
To answer your question about stress testing, the answer is yes. I used computer modeling programs such as finite element method (FEM), and a mass property analysis to start with, then did some static deflection measurements to validate. I also play tested for several months to optimize and refine the design before bringing the product to market. I took the conservative approach, but nothing beats real world testing, and the shape has evloved to where it is today.
To date there have been zero flipper bat failures and I really don't expect that to change. I might also add that games that are out on route/location with this flipper system installed have racked up thousands of game plays with no failures.
Thanks!
I’m loving this flipper system, it’s so easy to adjust the flippers to get them in the perfect position. I’ve installed on 3 games so far, have 2 more sets here and 4 more on the way. Going to try some Halo’s
Quoted from ASAC_Schrader:I put the longer flipper bats on my ghostbusters. It closed the flipper gap up just perfectly!
[quoted image]
Cheater :p
You'll like the halos. I much prefer them on newer games.
ASAC_Schrader I had the extended flipper bats on my Ghostbusters back when I was play testing them. I love that game, but I gotta say that gap is what drove me to manufacture the extended length flipper bats. I think it also saved my game from ending up on it's side a few times out of pure frustration. Anyone who's played that game knows how it can get your blood pressure up!
I ordered a set of halos and key post clamps for my whirlwind and had them waiting around for the last month, but I finally did the install today 
AB850D0E-B1EA-48D0-9629-DEF1FEE52836 (resized).jpegI went with raw since I thought I might swap them to other games if I trade the WW someday. They look a bit cold though, compared to the oem style, so if my collection expands and I move these to a different game, I’d order a set of gold halos for the WW. Or I might try yellow bands instead of red.
As others have mentioned, the install is a smooth, simple process. I just had to adjust my EOS switches a bit since the trigger on the Precision clamp is about double the width as the one on B/W clamps.
0DDEA345-FA11-4B9A-84B7-3A9F1F41F878 (resized).jpeg
I love how John’s system goes together so cleanly and precisely. Compared to these clamps that you have to wreck to get them to work… 41175527-051D-47DC-BACC-DFF38A70FC25 (resized).jpeg
Early impressions are that the lower flippers feel super snappy, yet have a great touch for catches and little flips when getting the ball back under control, so I’m really happy right off the bat. Sadly, I don’t dare try out the upper flipper yet, because the deciding factor for finally doing the installation was that the support post at the upper edge of the entrance to my left ramp broke, so the game was down anyway. I’m waiting on a replacement from Marco, because I don’t want to bash balls into the unprotected edge of my ramp, but I’m still dyyyyying to try it out!ACF38E6D-0D26-46E4-9F1E-D0A07C321AFC (resized).jpeg
Big weekend for installing Halos.
First up, adding a 3rd Halo to my TNG, and installing the D clamps.
D clamp installation was as easy as could be, and eliminates by far the most PITA part of pinball ownership for me -- the stupid flipper clamps are such a royal pain, so glad to be rid of them (thank you John!)
Lewbowski next, then Walking Dead, then AC/DC (stay tuned for photos)
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngray-dude looking good! Glad you're liking those new keyed shaft and clamp set-up. Looking forward to seeing the Big L with them installed
Lebowski done! Needless to say, the Halos really make the room
I went with silver halos and original color low bounce titans. I was worried the sleek look of the Halos would take away from the vintage 90s look of the pin, but I think they fit right in
Pleasantly easy to install the Halos/bushings/D clamps with Lebowski. Lower flipper assemblies have a nice connector to the lower playfield PCB. Removed both lower flipper assemblies from the machine, which made work easy/fast on a table top to install the metal bushings and the D clamp linkage connector (maybe 15-20 minutes per side start to finish)
I'm not sure Halos will make a play difference with the upper playfield, but I went with them for aesthetics. Even easier to install on the upper playfield since there are no metal bushings to install or D clamp (not needed/available). Remove the old bat install the Halo shaft, and Bob's your uncle.
Note that if you're removing the bat on the upper playfield, that would be a good time to deal with troublesome bushing on the upper playfield. Mine was cracked/broken. Dutch Pinball has an extended plastic bushing that they are working on (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/30#post-7160616 ). I went with RobF 's most excellent replacement: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/31#post-7191024 (thank you Rob, works great!)
I'm going to be removing my upper playfield for some other maintenance (plastic protectors, cleaning, etc) so I'll get some play testing in later today
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngray-dude Wow, What a great install! Thanks for the very detailed description of the install, that will no doubt be useful to others who are considering the swap. Thanks for posting this, Looks Great
Halos in action on Deadpool!
Maybe my quickest defeat of the T-Rex Quest... especially without using any Booms!
Only 28 seconds from start to finish! 
Goalie Can the coil power/strength be adjusted down on that game?
Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:Goalie Can the coil power/strength be adjusted down on that game?
90’s Bally game, I don’t believe you can.
Goalie What others have done with those games is to install lower power coils, not sure if that's an option for you.
Game #4 with Halos, this time AC/DC Back In Black LE with red Halos + black low profile titans + metal bushing + d clamps
Also a very easy install (4th different install for me, this time SAM), but not quite as easy as Lebowski (coils and switches are soldered in).
Fortunately, there are no small nuts behind the flipper plate for the bushing, so no need to remove the flipper assembly from the playfield.
I removed the original bats, disconnected the original clamp from the linkage to the plunger (careful not to lose the spacer in the linkage!), and then after cleaning the area (Always Be Cleaning!), removed and replaced the original plastic bushing with the metal one.
When that was done, I removed the new tightening bolt from the D clamp and attached the new D clamp to the linkage to the plunger (get the orientation right...flat part of the D faces away from the coil), inserted the shaft through the playfield into the D clamp, then detached the EOS switch from the original clamp and used the new bolt to attach it to the D clamp. Tighten down the D clamp on the new shaft (leave a little up and down slack in the shaft) and a quick check/adjustment of the EOS switches and all done.
Need to get a couple more games in to comment on game play, but dang, is it fast but with lot more control. TBD whether I stay with the original flipper coils or dial them down to the next step down.
Next (and last) pin to Halo-fy: The Walking Dead
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngray-dude Another great install and summary! Please keep us updated on results of game play with the stock coils.
Well. I've got these on 8 pins now and I have to say I am addicted.
I have some solids and some halo's and have not decided on a favorite from a play perspective, but from a visual standpoint I like the Halo's better.
When will you have more Halo's in silver in stock? I need more, ha ha.
I just put the Halo's on my tough shooting Alice Cooper Nightmare Castle and dropped the flipper position back a little like a guy on ACNC thread did and it is a different game (much better) easier ramps and orbits for sure. I also did the small upper pf flipper with the largest small Halo which is about 1/4" shorter then the stock flipper. I am only a few games in but so far the shorter flipper seems fine and was able to cradle and make the tough target/ramp shot up there.
Precision has been excellent with customer service as well. Now lets win that TWIPY!
Hey just a general question here is there any reason for my GNR that I should not use the clamping system? Also same question for bushings? Just the halo flippers on the stock system? Or should I go the full Monty clamps + bushings? I'm just confused best setup for gnr with the combinations here and different people's recommendations seems to conflict. I'm going halo btw
Woolgoolga
Quoted from Vespula:Hey just a general question here is there any reason for my GNR that I should not use the clamping system? Also same question for bushings? Just the halo flippers on the stock system? Or should I go the full Monty clamps + bushings? I'm just confused best setup for gnr with the combinations here and different people's recommendations seems to conflict. I'm going halo btw
If you have the JJP GnR, then the clamp system is nearly mandatory. The newer JJP clamps are junk*, and will bend/deflect when you tighten on the hardened shafts. John developed the keyed clamp system mainly to solve this problem with JJP (Williams) linkages.
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*the older JJP clamps on my Hobbit and WOZ were fine. My GnR required new linkages. The metal JJP has been using in their linkages recently is really flimsy.
Quoted from DiabloRush:If you have the JJP GnR, then the clamp system is nearly mandatory. The newer JJP clamps are junk*, and will bend/deflect when you tighten on the hardened shafts. John developed the keyed clamp system mainly to solve this problem with JJP (Williams) linkages.
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*the older JJP clamps on my Hobbit and WOZ were fine. My GnR required new linkages. The metal JJP has been using in their linkages recently is really flimsy.
Basically the only thing I wouldn't bother with the keyed clamps for are newer sterns, with the solid block clamps. They aren't great, but generally fine with a little elbow grease, so probably less hassle than changing out the clamp system. And that's like 50 towards your next set of halos :p
I keep meaning to caution people swapping the D-shaft and clamp system into a Stern machine on a problem you may encounter otherwise: When you remove the factory clamp, be very careful to NOT DROP the washer that is underneath the locknut on the back side of the clamp. Its very hard to see, and easy to drop, so err on the side of caution and go slowly. I dropped two of them even after knowing and trying to be careful when disassembling the old clamp.
Quoted from Markharris2000:I keep meaning to caution people swapping the D-shaft and clamp system into a Stern machine on a problem you may encounter otherwise: When you remove the factory clamp, be very careful to NOT DROP the washer that is underneath the locknut on the back side of the clamp. Its very hard to see, and easy to drop, so err on the side of caution and go slowly. I dropped two of them even after knowing and trying to be careful when disassembling the old clamp.
Hi Mark…. I recently finished up changing all of my machines to Precision flippers /bushings/clamps (not all). I found a stray lock washer on the floor of one. I have not been able to locate where it came from.
Can you point out specifically where the washer you are referring to is. Comparing to my other pins, I am not seeing it. (Probably right in front of my face!)
Thanks in advance for any clarification.
Matt
On my SAM machines, there is a small lock washer behind the bolt that secures the clamp to the link (12 on your figure)
(wow 3 answers in 11 seconds!)
Quoted from chuckwurt:13 in your picture.
Quoted from ray-dude:On my SAM machines, there is a small lock washer behind the bolt that secures the clamp to the link (12 on your figure)
Quoted from ASAC_Schrader:12 has a washer. It’s not labeled
Thanks all…presumed there… it is a hard one to see!
On the right part of the picture above, starting from left to right, I had the 10-32 hex screw, a #10 lock washer, the factory metal clamp with the plastic armature sandwiched in the middle, another #10 washer and finally the #10 nylon lock nut. The washer between the clamp and the lock nut is easy to miss and drop into the cabinet or bottom of playfield mechanics.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Anyone have an install video ?
Logical next step
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Anyone have an install video ?
I was thinking about that the other day. Could do one when I put them on my Zeppelin, whenever the gold are back in stock, if folks want one.
For first timers like me these kinds of videos are invaluable to tackling the job with understanding and confidence. And could increase sales and reduce support time as two benefits to the seller.
I would like to see one for JJP and one for Stern and from start to finish installing the entire system, flippers, bushings, clamps.
Quoted from DiabloRush:If you have the JJP GnR, then the clamp system is nearly mandatory. The newer JJP clamps are junk*, and will bend/deflect when you tighten on the hardened shafts. John developed the keyed clamp system mainly to solve this problem with JJP (Williams) linkages.
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*the older JJP clamps on my Hobbit and WOZ were fine. My GnR required new linkages. The metal JJP has been using in their linkages recently is really flimsy.
The clamps on my GNR CE are fine. Just changing the flipper assemblies has made a world of difference, even without the bushings.
Hey guys, just getting back into checking the forum here. I'm working hard to get inventory back in stock, its been hard getting back up to speed after the holidays so I do apologize for being out of stock on several items. Thanks for helping out with responding to questions and providing some feedback, appreciate it.
@ ASAC_schrader I like the way you think! I finally approved the Purple today, the color saturation looks good now. I was also checking on some colors to go along with the new Bond game, I might have a couple samples anodized in a couple weeks. So Silver, Gold, Black, Red, Blue, Purple, and Green HALO's all at the end of the month. I'll also have Purple in the solid top version as well.
On the install video I know this is something that's been requested a few times, I agree it would be a good thing to have available. I can't promise anything yet but I'll try to coordinate that at some point soon. I do have someone in the EU who is doing a review video next week and I did request he show the installation process as well. So that might be available soon.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this mod will win out for the TWIPYs, I guess we shall see 
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