(Topic ID: 318895)

Review – Precision Pinball Products CNC Flipper System

By DiabloRush

1 year ago


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    There are 2,945 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 59.
    #851 1 year ago
    Quoted from DiabloRush:

    I've been nagging John to do another anodization (color) run on both the miniflippers and the Halographic Pros. It's not cheap, unfortunately. To help, perhaps we should list our 3 preferred colors for this. Here's mine:
    Gold
    Red
    Black
    Come on, John. You know you're going to cave and make this happen...

    Blue and purple!!

    #852 1 year ago

    Green and purple..

    Id love to see Purple in the regular flippers as well…

    #853 1 year ago
    Quoted from matt68061:

    Id love to see Purple in the regular flippers as well…

    You and me both! I really want a nice dark purple for Medieval Madness.

    #854 1 year ago
    Quoted from DiabloRush:

    I've been nagging John to do another anodization (color) run on both the miniflippers and the Halographic Pros. It's not cheap, unfortunately. To help, perhaps we should list our 3 preferred colors for this. Here's mine:
    Gold
    Red
    Black
    Come on, John. You know you're going to cave and make this happen...

    Yes, these are the colors I prefer as well.

    #855 1 year ago

    OK I yield. I've gotten the message about having the HALOGRAPHIC's colorized not just in this forum but by PM as well. I'm currently in the process of machining another production run of standard and mini flipper bats. I've decided to go ahead and include the HALO's and the mini's in the mix for anodizing.

    Color's for the HALO's will be; Gold, Red, and Black. The mini's Red and Black. I Should have them available near the end of the month if not early Oct. Unfortunately Purple will not make it into this run, perhaps it might near the end of the year, and might be a limited run only due to the cost associated with plating this color.

    John

    #856 1 year ago

    Bugger, no blue. I'll keep waiting for Tron.

    #857 1 year ago

    I posted this per request in another thread but thought it fit the bill nicely here as well.

    My GnR LE with the precision flippers installed on the lower playfield flippers (upper is stock)

    The coils are on default power, the center vuk is bumped up a hair...I like the quicker return, but the flippers do also have the Pinmonk fans installed.

    Please excuse the video. I don't have a rig so literally clamped my phone to the backbox and flipped and rotated the image in a video editor so the quality is a little lacking

    Also, excuse the play style, I didn't dare nudge for fear of jostling the clamps free and the entire apparatus crashing down on the playfield glass.

    Hope this give an idea of the flipper action

    #858 1 year ago
    Quoted from PinMonk:

    Alphabetized, for easier perusal:
    AC/DC
    AIQ
    Alien
    Big Lebowski
    Black Knight
    Black Knight 2000
    Bride of Pinbot
    Cactus Canyon
    Deadpool
    Dialed In
    Elvira
    Elvis
    Ghostbusters
    GNR
    Godzilla
    Guardians of the Galexy
    Indiana Jones
    Iron Maiden
    Jurassic Park
    Led Zeplin
    Lord of the Rings
    Mandalorian
    Metallica
    Pirates of the Caribbean
    Rick & Morty
    Rush
    Star Trek
    Star Wars
    Swords of Fury
    TNMT
    Total Nuclear Annihilation
    Tron
    Twilight Zone

    I see a lot of machines where it's not possible to adjust flipper strength. How those who installed it manage the additionnal transmission power in these ? Thinking of Tron in particular specifically for me, since that's where I intend to put one set.

    Cheers

    #859 1 year ago

    Most metal coatings shops can anodize raw aluminum… just saying.

    For those who don’t want to wait on their preferred color.

    #860 1 year ago

    If I was going to install these I think I would stick with original nylon bushings, same low wear/low maintenance as the original flippers. Okay so they can still break once in a while but metal-on-nylon is a great system.

    #861 1 year ago

    Does anyone have any feedback or pics on bat cosmetics after a couple hundred games on something fast like a TNA, GNR(multiball madness) or F-14 Tomcat. I'd like to see how the aluminum is holding up (aesthetically) against a steel ball striking it over time.
    I normally make my own mods for games or figure out fixes or improvements but this can't be made with a home 3d printer.ha.
    Do you offer a Military/Disabled Veteran discount or is anyone sponsoring you like Buffalo Pinball with a promo code?
    Thanks for the info.
    .....and purple.
    r/
    Mike

    #862 1 year ago

    Does the Halographic Pro come with the shaft? It doesn’t show the shaft in the picture. It only shows the shaft on the bushing.

    #863 1 year ago

    pindel The HALOGRAPHIC-PRO flippers are sold individually. I do not have a flipper kit set up with the HALO's just yet. You would need to order the following if you wanted to make up a kit.

    2ea. Standard flipper shafts (two flipper game)
    2ea. Flipper Shaft bushings (specifiy game type)
    2ea. HALOGRAPHIC-PRO flippers

    This is what is needed to make up a two flipper set-up, just change the Qty's to adjust for single or multiple flippers.
    Thanks, John

    #864 1 year ago

    Thanks John, is the bushing optional. It seems some others are sticking with original plastic bushings.

    Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:pindel The HALOGRAPHIC-PRO flippers are sold individually. I do not have a flipper kit set up with the HALO's just yet. You would need to order the following if you wanted to make up a kit.
    2ea. Standard flipper shafts (two flipper game)
    2ea. Flipper Shaft bushings (specifiy game type)
    2ea. HALOGRAPHIC-PRO flippers
    This is what is needed to make up a two flipper set-up, just change the Qty's to adjust for single or multiple flippers.
    Thanks, John

    #865 1 year ago
    Quoted from pindel:

    Thanks John, is the bushing optional? It seems some others are sticking with original plastic bushings.

    #866 1 year ago
    Quoted from mikepmcs:

    Does anyone have any feedback or pics on bat cosmetics after a couple hundred games on something fast like a TNA, GNR(multiball madness) or F-14 Tomcat. I'd like to see how the aluminum is holding up (aesthetically) against a steel ball striking it over time.

    I had an airball at the flippers that resulted in a pop fly off the top of the bat. Put a very minor ding in the bat, and I couldn't find any obvious damage on the balls. I slid the flipper rubbers up on all my Al bats to help protect the upper edge of the bats.

    #867 1 year ago
    Quoted from pindel:

    Thanks John, is the bushing optional. It seems some others are sticking with original plastic bushings.

    That's like buying a ferrari when you only have dirt roads to drive on

    Mechanically possible - but you are devoiding yourself of most of the design's benefits.

    #868 1 year ago
    Quoted from pindel:

    Thanks John, is the bushing optional. It seems some others are sticking with original plastic bushings.

    After the oillite sleeve, I don't know why you would want to outside of a very odd place to choose to save a bit of money.

    #869 1 year ago
    Quoted from ray-dude:

    I had an airball at the flippers that resulted in a pop fly off the top of the bat. Put a very minor ding in the bat, and I couldn't find any obvious damage on the balls. I slid the flipper rubbers up on all my Al bats to help protect the upper edge of the bats.

    Thank you.
    I'll be ordering at some point, was just curious.Maybe I'll 3d print a topper to take the fallout. I'm torn cause I really like the look of them just as they are. Very sharp looking.
    r/
    Mike

    #870 1 year ago

    pindel Yes the bushings are optional, you will gain some benefit from just swaping out the flipper bats, but as others have stated adding the bushings completes the system and provides the most benefits.

    Thanks!

    #871 1 year ago
    Quoted from mikepmcs:

    Does anyone have any feedback or pics on bat cosmetics after a couple hundred games on something fast like a TNA, GNR(multiball madness) or F-14 Tomcat. I'd like to see how the aluminum is holding up (aesthetically) against a steel ball striking it over time.
    I normally make my own mods for games or figure out fixes or improvements but this can't be made with a home 3d printer.ha.
    Do you offer a Military/Disabled Veteran discount or is anyone sponsoring you like Buffalo Pinball with a promo code?
    Thanks for the info.
    .....and purple.
    r/
    Mike

    So far I have a couple hundred games on Godzilla with the "regular" Precision Flip aluminum flippers and maybe a hundred games on Deadpool with the Halographic Pros and I don't show any damage or wear on the flippers.

    #872 1 year ago
    Quoted from awesome1:

    So far I have a couple hundred games on Godzilla with the "regular" Precision Flip aluminum flippers and maybe a hundred games on Deadpool with the Halographic Pros and I don't show any damage or wear on the flippers.

    Awesome! Thank you so much for the feedback. I'm really anxious to get these on some of my games over time. Fantastic looking and awesome addition to pinball. I'm buying them for aesthetic reasons. The play benefit is just a bonus for me.
    r/
    Mike

    #873 1 year ago

    Got mine installed a few minutes ago, still getting used to ‘em. noticeably snappier… lots more power when hitting off the ends of the flippers.

    C86F9310-4A0B-4B4C-BF79-A88C0C001D5C (resized).jpegC86F9310-4A0B-4B4C-BF79-A88C0C001D5C (resized).jpeg
    #874 1 year ago

    Oh yeah, just posted a personal best on jp.. these things are gold. Ugh, now I’ll probably end up doing all my games. Highly recommended for JP helps with the tight shots

    #875 1 year ago

    Just installed them in my Metallica today. They look fantastic

    117CB5B9-BE3C-47CE-BF8F-472F67387696 (resized).jpeg117CB5B9-BE3C-47CE-BF8F-472F67387696 (resized).jpeg8A3E535F-5E26-4C93-917D-4A73B72DFDC8 (resized).jpeg8A3E535F-5E26-4C93-917D-4A73B72DFDC8 (resized).jpeg
    #876 1 year ago
    Quoted from Hangry:

    Just installed them in my Metallica today. They look fantastic
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Just BAD ASS!!

    #877 1 year ago
    Quoted from Hangry:

    Just installed them in my Metallica today. They look fantastic

    WOW! Those may be the best table yet for the Halographic Pros. Stunning.

    #878 1 year ago
    Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:

    I'm starting to consider this. I'll keep watch and see how many others want HALO's in colors. It still might be a while though if and when I do.

    Red halographic and I’m back in for another pair!

    #879 1 year ago

    atg1469 See post #855, red is going to happen. I should have them first week of Oct.

    #880 1 year ago
    Quoted from Hangry:

    Just installed them in my Metallica today. They look fantastic
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Holy crap! That looks real sharp.
    r/
    Mike

    #881 1 year ago

    What type of lube are you guys using on your shaft?

    I was thinking of trying this one:

    https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21010-Synthetic-Blistered/dp/B000BXKZQU/ref=sr_1_10

    #882 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinzzz:

    What type of lube are you guys using on your shaft?

    So many memes … so little time.

    That’s what I used.

    #883 1 year ago
    Quoted from 1956PINHEAD:

    OK I yield. I've gotten the message about having the HALOGRAPHIC's colorized not just in this forum but by PM as well. I'm currently in the process of machining another production run of standard and mini flipper bats. I've decided to go ahead and include the HALO's and the mini's in the mix for anodizing.
    Color's for the HALO's will be; Gold, Red, and Black. The mini's Red and Black. I Should have them available near the end of the month if not early Oct. Unfortunately Purple will not make it into this run, perhaps it might near the end of the year, and might be a limited run only due to the cost associated with plating this color.
    John

    Outstanding! Please consider setting up flipper kit bundles for purchase with the HALO's when the colors are ready for sale. I will wait till early Oct. to purchase these for several games.

    #884 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinzzz:

    What type of lube are you guys using on your shaft?
    I was thinking of trying this one:
    amazon.com link »

    AAFBEFA9-9B27-46B2-84D7-FEBAF75E3462 (resized).jpegAAFBEFA9-9B27-46B2-84D7-FEBAF75E3462 (resized).jpeg
    #885 1 year ago

    probably any lighter oil is good enough. if you're into model trains you might have this stuff around.. seems like it'll do.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #886 1 year ago

    I installed a three flipper set on GnR last night and still need to find tune the angle of the flippers, but my first impression is that the left flipper feels much snappier than the right. I’m wondering if this could be due to the fact that the right flipper also controls both upper flippers? They even sound different with the left having a solid “clack” while the right is slightly deeper and a little more muted (if that makes sense?!). I also had a bitch of a time getting the right flippers tight enough so that they stayed in place and didn’t move position when flipping, so wondering if I possibly over tightened or something? Seems doubtful to me but curious to hear if any other GnR owners had similar experiences/impressions they can share.

    #887 1 year ago
    Quoted from atg1469:

    I installed a three flipper set on GnR last night and still need to find tune the angle of the flippers, but my first impression is that the left flipper feels much snappier than the right. I’m wondering if this could be due to the fact that the right flipper also controls both upper flippers? They even sound different with the left having a solid “clack” while the right is slightly deeper and a little more muted (if that makes sense?!). I also had a bitch of a time getting the right flippers tight enough so that they stayed in place and didn’t move position when flipping, so wondering if I possibly over tightened or something? Seems doubtful to me but curious to hear if any other GnR owners had similar experiences/impressions they can share.

    How does each feel when moving manually? They should be loose with no binding. Is the flipper gap the same? Any binding at all will sap power, and you want the same, slight gap on each mechanism. Another thing to check is the coil stop. Make sure it's screwed down solid. Those can loosen up. It's also possible (especially on Sterns) that the coil stop itself will loosen from the metal bracket. In general, just go over each mech and ensure they're tight with no binding.

    #888 1 year ago
    Quoted from atg1469:

    I’m wondering if this could be due to the fact that the right flipper also controls both upper flippers?

    No - you have a mechanical issue. Either you have binding from installing the shaft/linkage too tight, the coil isn’t square to the bracket, coil plunger/sleeve wear, or you have coil stop issues.

    As thr oo posted. Articulate the flipper mech by hand and find the binding.

    #889 1 year ago
    Quoted from atg1469:

    I installed a three flipper set on GnR last night and still need to find tune the angle of the flippers, but my first impression is that the left flipper feels much snappier than the right. I’m wondering if this could be due to the fact that the right flipper also controls both upper flippers? They even sound different with the left having a solid “clack” while the right is slightly deeper and a little more muted (if that makes sense?!). I also had a bitch of a time getting the right flippers tight enough so that they stayed in place and didn’t move position when flipping, so wondering if I possibly over tightened or something? Seems doubtful to me but curious to hear if any other GnR owners had similar experiences/impressions they can share.

    I had pretty much the same experience. The "clack" from the left flipper only became apparent after changing to the OG Precision's (with precision bushing). My right flipper doesn't make the clack sound but it also doesn't bind in any way (my flipper strengths are stock settings). I don't notice any difference between their performance, just the clack sound.

    Before I changed to the precision flipper, I remember adjusting my flipper angle a few times and my right flipper feeling more bound up afterwards. It appeared my coil shaft was getting bound up, because it wasn't entering the coil cleanly. Check the gap between the bushing and the pawl. On my game, the gap had to be a little bigger than the left flipper in order to eliminate the binding.

    I was also surprised by how hard I had to tighten down the flipper bats. It took me a few tries until I realized I had to really tighten them to the point of not being able to move the allen wrench any more.

    IMG_20220918_100143__01 (resized).jpgIMG_20220918_100143__01 (resized).jpg
    #890 1 year ago
    Quoted from DiabloRush:

    How does each feel when moving manually? They should be loose with no binding. Is the flipper gap the same? Any binding at all will sap power, and you want the same, slight gap on each mechanism. Another thing to check is the coil stop. Make sure it's screwed down solid. Those can loosen up. It's also possible (especially on Sterns) that the coil stop itself will loosen from the metal bracket. In general, just go over each mech and ensure they're tight with no binding.

    Would you be willing to take a picture of your flipper shaft as it sits in the bushing without the flipper installed? I’m curious what size gap you’re referring to. My flipper shaft is sitting flush with the bushing so maybe this is my issue.

    #891 1 year ago
    Quoted from atg1469:

    Would you be willing to take a picture of your flipper shaft as it sits in the bushing without the flipper installed? I’m curious what size gap you’re referring to. My flipper shaft is sitting flush with the bushing so maybe this is my issue.

    The "gap" I'm referring to here is the up/down movement of the shaft in the bushing. You should be able to pull the flipper straight up along the axis of the shaft and have just a bit of play here. The usual rule-of-thumb is the thickness of a credit card. Move it up and down, and if you can't hear it "clunk" and move just a bit, you're too tight.

    #892 1 year ago
    Quoted from DiabloRush:

    The "gap" I'm referring to here is the up/down movement of the shaft in the bushing. You should be able to pull the flipper straight up along the axis of the shaft and have just a bit of play here. The usual rule-of-thumb is the thickness of a credit card. Move it up and down, and if you can't hear it "clunk" and move just a bit, you're too tight.

    Gotcha. I definitely don’t have any movement but the only way I could get the flipper to stay in place was to really crank down on the locking nut. So I’m a little hesitant to loosen that up again!

    #893 1 year ago
    Quoted from atg1469:

    Gotcha. I definitely don’t have any movement but the only way I could get the flipper to stay in place was to really crank down on the locking nut. So I’m a little hesitant to loosen that up again!

    There's a little gapping tool you can use or make your own as DiabloRush mentioned - about the thickness of a credit card. I find it easiest to temporarily place the "spacer" between the bottom of the flipper and top of the bushing when tightening the squeeze bolt. You can tape it to the playfield if you like to keep it from moving.

    You definitely want that tiny bit of play though that the spacer creates when you remove it.

    #894 1 year ago

    With regards to the need to really clamp the shaft, I found out that there seems to be a thin film of oil (?) left from machining I assume (I did not add any oil myself). It's very thin, but noticeable when you slide your finger. What I did was cleaning up the shaft with alcohol after sliding it through the bushing.

    Not sure if it's related, as I really tightened the clamp afterward as well

    #895 1 year ago
    Quoted from killborn:

    I had pretty much the same experience. The "clack" from the left flipper only became apparent after changing to the OG Precision's (with precision bushing). My right flipper doesn't make the clack sound but it also doesn't bind in any way (my flipper strengths are stock settings). I don't notice any difference between their performance, just the clack sound.
    Before I changed to the precision flipper, I remember adjusting my flipper angle a few times and my right flipper feeling more bound up afterwards. It appeared my coil shaft was getting bound up, because it wasn't entering the coil cleanly. Check the gap between the bushing and the pawl. On my game, the gap had to be a little bigger than the left flipper in order to eliminate the binding.
    I was also surprised by how hard I had to tighten down the flipper bats. It took me a few tries until I realized I had to really tighten them to the point of not being able to move the allen wrench any more.[quoted image]

    You really gotta crank on those shafts … wait, yeah pinball.

    #896 1 year ago

    Well it's Sunday evening and I'm just getting caught up in reviewing the posts. I wanted to let everyone know I'm working on addressing the link arm pinch bolt clamps on the Stern configuration. I beleive I have a good solution and will be testing my prototypes in about a week. As a result at some point in the near future I'll have another mod out to address that part of the flipper mechanism too. My solution should remove all the variables from this part of the assembly that's supplied by the game manufacturer.

    On the JJP version of that formed sheet metal link arm/clamp arrangement I'm going to tackle that one next. So while it might be a ways out yet I intend to have a mod to address and update that part as well. In the meantime I appreciate others in this forum who have offered assistance to those who are dealing with this part of the swap out. While it's a small perecentage it's still something that bothers me and I intend to come to the rescue soon.

    Thanks,
    John

    #897 1 year ago

    These flippers.. finally got the elusive MXV skillshot!!!

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #898 1 year ago
    Quoted from awesome1:

    There's a little gapping tool you can use or make your own as DiabloRush mentioned - about the thickness of a credit card. I find it easiest to temporarily place the "spacer" between the bottom of the flipper and top of the bushing when tightening the squeeze bolt. You can tape it to the playfield if you like to keep it from moving.
    You definitely want that tiny bit of play though that the spacer creates when you remove it.

    I assume you could also gap from the bottom of the playfield - maybe stick a feeler gauge in between the bottom of the bushing and the flipper crank bar or whatever it is?

    #899 1 year ago

    blizz81 I set up my vertical gap/float from the bottom as you had also pointed out. Either way works but I do like setting that gap from underneath as I can make sure there are no issues with the mech going on with a visual conformation as well.

    #900 1 year ago

    Here's how I did it and it seemed to work well. That's a flipper spacer that most pinball shops sell.

    65a40976b495b04b45ba3d5cc4a70d19e60a3517 (resized).jpg65a40976b495b04b45ba3d5cc4a70d19e60a3517 (resized).jpg
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