(Topic ID: 80160)

Revenge From Mars (Your Advice Appreciated)


By wongojack

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 59 posts
  • 24 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Giulio
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 23 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

RFMHole.jpg
rfm autofire.jpg
RFM-HVenabled.JPG
RFM-HVdisabled.JPG
RFM_Computer.jpg
photo.JPG
RFM protector.JPG
Fire.jpg
RFMMartian.png
WP_20140406_010.jpg
WP_20140406_009.jpg
WP_20140406_011.jpg
DropSwitchConnex.jpg
DropAssmb.jpg
RFMSaucerRepair.jpg
RFMPCBSide.jpg

There are 59 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 5 years ago
Quoted from wongojack:

All I had to do was play the game with the glass off to discover that this seems to be happening because the plunger doesn't go back down after ejecting the ball.

I doubt this is the cause as the plunger has no switch associated with it. Mine also sticks as well sometimes. I still have sleeves to replace on mine including the plunger sleeve, so I don't know if that will fix the plunger sticking. I'll have to listen for the sounds you mention - guess I haven't paid too close attention to it. If I recall, the plunger mounting bracket itself is prone to problems - don't recall if its binding/twisting or some other problem. On mine the sticking plunger doesn't seem to have any affect on play. But I do think I have to look more closely at the shooter lane switch - and this might be something to check on yours as well.

#52 5 years ago

when you do take a look at it (if you already haven't), make sure that the coil is mounted straight.

rfm autofire.jpg

if the two studs on part no. 6 (coil centering bracket [regardless of what the instruction manual states]), aren't lined up straight, it can cause the plunger to bind and stick instead of retract correctly.

also, make sure that the coil, the sleeve and the centering bracket are as tight as they can be against the end of the auto-fire bracket (there shouldn't be any "play" between the auto-fire bracket, the coil and/or the centering bracket)

#53 5 years ago
Quoted from wizzardz:

I doubt this is the cause as the plunger has no switch associated with it.

The switch associated is the opto. As soon as the plunger falls back down below the optos, the sound effect stops. I can make it happen by lightly tapping on the plunger and making it go down. If I wait, it goes down due to vibration somewhere else on the table and the effect stops.

Quoted from j_m_:

when you do take a look at it (if you already haven't), make sure that the coil is mounted straight. If the two studs on part no. 6 (coil centering bracket [regardless of what the instruction manual states]), aren't lined up straight, it can cause the plunger to bind and stick instead of retract correctly.
also, make sure that the coil, the sleeve and the centering bracket are as tight as they can be against the end of the auto-fire bracket (there shouldn't be any "play" between the auto-fire bracket, the coil and/or the centering bracket)

I plan to replace the plastic sleeve and re-align. Thanks for the tips on how to get that done. This weekend, I'm planning on cleaning and replacing the plastic and spring on every coil. Should be fun. If anyone else has advice for me please fire away.

#54 5 years ago

I just recently finished doing the same on mine (with the exception of the pop bumpers (which I still need to rebuild).

my advice. take it slow and tackle them one at a time.

I'm also looking at designing a solution so that the centering brackets and the cups of the armatures don't get peened based on the current design.

2 weeks later
#55 5 years ago

Ok, over 2 weeks since my last post, and I've been workin. Easter weekend plus other family commitments slowed me down. I did a bunch of stuff to it that has made a big difference.

I put in BOTH hole protectors to really cover up this mess:

RFMHole.jpg

I cleaned every solenoid (replaced the sleeve and spring) except the flippers, kickers, jets, and diverter. Now my stroke of luck hole is behaving and the rod goes down normally. I get better up and down motion on my Martians although one still sticks in the upright position sometimes.

I replaced every target in the center target bank. They were all in the wrong place or the wrong target entirely. This took some time as I had to plan out how I wanted to fit them all in there. The wiring harness is right on top of (er . . . below) the targets on the right side of the playfield. Ultimately, removing them all and soldering them in the center position before moving them to their correct spot made this pretty easy.
The new center target I bought gets caught on a screw on the ball catcher assembly. It would get stuck and not move anymore or function as a switch. After some troubleshooting, I replaced the problematic screw with a flat screw and also stuck some black backing foam behind the target. It doesn't move as much now, but it doesn't get stuck and is nice and sensitive.

I hacked together a connector for the drop target assembly. I used a two prong male molex connector and mounted the switch using some screws that fit tightly into the switch mounting holes. This means that I don't need the actual switch mounting bracket (that apparently is only available in Australia). Admittedly, this is a hack, but it works and the drop target is pretty far out of the way to the point where I don't think it will cause problems. I may re-solder the connection to the molex connector if I get a PCB board that is the right size.

I need some help understanding how to disassemble the kickers and diverter. What is the best way to remove the locking pins? Also, there is one screw that is under the plastic control panel cover that is going to be very tough to get to. How do you guys remove the plastic cover that goes over the ball trough?

#56 5 years ago

wow- sounds like a huge amount of progress.

2 months later
#57 5 years ago

Hey Wongo, it's been awhile since your last post. How's everything going? Hopefully this means everything is fine and you got everything sorted out. Give us an update bro.

8 months later
#58 4 years ago

I haven't been on pinside in a while because my RFM has been working happily since this maintenance I did last year. A friend of retro gaming actually sent me the amp for the monitor which I have yet to install. I want to do that, and I also think I need to recap the monitor because it takes quite a while for the animations to "brighten" up once the game is started. I have a Ducksan (sp?) version of the monitor, so if someone has a cap kit for it that could jump start that improvement.

The flippers work fine, but I know they aren't original and should be replaced. I really also should clean the poppers and diverter, but I'm getting away with them in their current state right now. I keep the Martian solenoids turned off primarily because they are so loud, but they've settled into working well when I turn them on.

I opted not to upgrade the RAM. While I do notice the animation slowdown when someone else is playing, I never notice it when I'm playing, and no one else ever notices it at all.

4 months later
#59 4 years ago
Quoted from ignusfast:

It's attached with rivets - you can buy a tool-less rivet kit like [http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=72] which works, but it was a bit hit-or-miss when I did it. I finally got a good, lasting pair of rivets in there, but I'd never done it before and it took several tries...
Just remove the bolts attaching the ramp assembly to the solenoid assembly that holds it and remove it from the top of the playfield. Drill or use a punch to hammer out the existing rivets and replace the ramp with the new one. Not too bad, though as I mentioned it took me a few tries to rivet it properly.

hello there, does anyone know if do exist rivet that are more flat, with really low profile rivet head ? I did the job and new ramp fits really good, but rivet heads add some random trajectory to the ball....

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
$ 45.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
€ 159.00
Cabinet - Toppers
FlipperLED
$ 99.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Sales
$ 44.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinBoss Mods
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
There are 59 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside