(Topic ID: 241715)

Revenge From Mars - which bulbs? (not LED)


By Boslaw

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 25 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by wayout440
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 months ago

I have a new to me RFM and I'd like to switch to all incandescent bulbs. Does anyone know if there's a store selling a full kit of bulbs for this game (I've seen kits of LED's but I can't find a kit or bulb part numbers for incandescents).

#2 9 months ago

A lot of #555 bulbs in there. Maybe some #44 bulbs too.

Count sockets, wedge ones are #555 , round ones are #44 .

LTG : )

#3 9 months ago

Ok, gotta ask... Why not LED?

#4 9 months ago

Thanks for the part numbers.

Why not LED? There seems to be a mixture of LED and Incan in my current machine. The LED's look too bright. Maybe it's because of the contrast with the Incan. Also, a full set of LED's for this game seems to run around $165. I have to imagine the Incans will be cheaper.

#5 9 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Ok, gotta ask... Why not LED?

On P2K they can all come up in error. Don't draw enough current and game thinks they are all burned out.

LTG : )

#6 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

On P2K they can all come up in error. Don't draw enough current and game thinks they are all burned out.
LTG : )

AH FUN!

#7 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

On P2K they can all come up in error. Don't draw enough current and game thinks they are all burned out.

Unless you do something about it.

Capcom pins do the same thing.

LTG : )

#8 9 months ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Thanks for the part numbers.
Why not LED? There seems to be a mixture of LED and Incan in my current machine. The LED's look too bright. Maybe it's because of the contrast with the Incan. Also, a full set of LED's for this game seems to run around $165. I have to imagine the Incans will be cheaper.

Seems like ltg indicates that they aren't suited for your game. BUT if you do want LEDs in the future you can replicate incandescent look with the many, many options from cometpinball.com. Gregory answers questions quick and gives a ton of detail. They are also great about exchanges and returns and the bulbs will cost a TON less than $165 for a game.

#9 9 months ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Thanks for the part numbers.
Why not LED? There seems to be a mixture of LED and Incan in my current machine. The LED's look too bright. Maybe it's because of the contrast with the Incan. Also, a full set of LED's for this game seems to run around $165. I have to imagine the Incans will be cheaper.

I have a ton of incandescent bulbs I’m never gonna use. If you cover shipping, I’ll gladly send you a bunch!

For the record tho - I LED’d my RFM & it looks awesome.

#10 9 months ago

Thanks for the offer Rarehero. Everyone's got me rethinking the LED's now. I'm gonna get a few LED's and see if I'm making a mistake. I may be back in touch.

#11 9 months ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Thanks for the offer Rarehero. Everyone's got me rethinking the LED's now. I'm gonna get a few LED's and see if I'm making a mistake. I may be back in touch.

My general rule of thumb for LEDs:

-Clear domed 2-LED (like Stern uses) for GI. Only use frosted if it’s in your line of sight & blinds you.

-Flat domed clear LED for GI (or bendable LED if the socket isn’t pointing into the insert). This may be too bright, but if you use a white paint pen on the top it diffuses & looks great. Avoid frosted as it throws off the color temp. Also avoid color matching - inserts are already a color. Use warm white for orange, red, yellow & cool for white, blue and green. Pink actually looks nice under pink/purple inserts.

-4-LED mega bright LEDs for spotlights. Really brightens up the playfield.

#12 9 months ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Thanks for the offer Rarehero. Everyone's got me rethinking the LED's now. I'm gonna get a few LED's and see if I'm making a mistake. I may be back in touch.

I haven't used these, but it sounds like they might be what you are looking for: https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdretro.htm

I can attest, the ones I use (2 SMD https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm) are VERY bright. I am going to tone them down a bit on some of the white GI with my TOM and JP. I bought a few of these (1 SMD https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm) to see if those might give me more what I want in those. However, I also like to play in the dark and so having a lot of bright GI helps. I also have added some spotlights to almost all my pins with some muted light, just to give some overall visibility. It's sort of a purple/blacklight hue but almost turns white after you stare at it for a while.

#13 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Also avoid color matching - inserts are already a color. Use warm white for orange, red, yellow & cool for white, blue and green. Pink actually looks nice under pink/purple inserts

I color matched my JP and it looks great. Really deepens the color.

-1
#14 9 months ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

I color matched my JP and it looks great. Really deepens the color.

I’m not a fan. I like the “emerald green” and “sky blue” of the real insert color vs. the “forest green” and “smurf blue” of color matching.

Here’s my RFM with LEDs...not that photos ever really show it well. Oh, and I used warm white LEDs for the GI.

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#15 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I’m not a fan. I like the “emerald green” and “sky blue” of the real insert color vs. the “forest green” and “smurf blue” of color matching.
Here’s my RFM with LEDs...not that photos ever really show it well. Oh, and I used warm white LEDs for the GI.
[quoted image]

Nice... that looks very "stock" ... you know, not abused by LEDs.

The JP which has all very bright 2 SMD leds, I am going to tone it down just a bit.
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TAF with some spotlights
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TOM, I have lower brightness bulbs to replace the "front" 4 white GI bulbs that are sort of in your line of sight. This has the purple spots.
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You can see how bright TOM is compared to JJP POTC and WOZ.
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#16 9 months ago

The pics all look great. Do the LED's on RFM cut through or wash out the video too much when playing in the dark?

-1
#17 9 months ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

The pics all look great. Do the LED's on RFM cut through or wash out the video too much when playing in the dark?

Not at all. RFM actually turns off the lights in back unless the ball is back there. With LEDs it’s more noticeable when this happens, which is actually good - you can see the ball & it doesn’t mess with the video.

#18 9 months ago

do NOT put LEDs in your RFM, it's just not the same. The only pin that I converted back to incandescent. between the credit dot always glaring at me and losing a lot of the lighting effects, it just isn't worth it.

#19 9 months ago

Color matched frosted ghostbusters look fantastic in RFM... I did mine the way this guy describes things - leds from the apron to the ramps, then incandescents to the back - it looks and plays fantastic.

#20 9 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

do NOT put LEDs in your RFM, it's just not the same. The only pin that I converted back to incandescent. between the credit dot always glaring at me and losing a lot of the lighting effects, it just isn't worth it.

I agree. The game is not meant to be bright. You lose the fade effects with LEDs. The reflection of the monitor is compromised. The lamp diagnostics don't work correctly. I don't think this game looks good with LEDs and the negatives outweigh the positives. You shouldn't be able to easily see the tray behind the video, and you cannot read the text on the monitor with the glare behind it. The game can reduce the power and brightness of incandescent, but it can't reduce LED output because the cutoff is too sharp - they are full on or full off.
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#21 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

For the record tho - I LED’d my RFM & it looks awesome.

I put LEDs in mine too. Yeah, you lose a bit of the fade effects, but I figure it's worth the trade-off.

But, I choose my LEDs very carefully according to brightness and color. Some people just color bomb a game and it looks awful. Or use the brightest LEDs imaginable and completely wash out the artwork and/or make it difficult to look at without sunglasses. It's a bit of an art, which is what I enjoy about it.

Additionally, install the ultimarc monitor mod. It's a big improvement for the CRT's colors and brightness.

#22 9 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I agree. The game is not meant to be bright. You lose the fade effects with LEDs. The reflection of the monitor is compromised. The lamp diagnostics don't work correctly. I don't think this game looks good with LEDs and the negatives outweigh the positives. You shouldn't be able to easily see the tray behind the video, and you cannot read the text on the monitor with the glare behind it. The game can reduce the power and brightness of incandescent, but it can't reduce LED output because the cutoff is too sharp - they are full on or full off.
[quoted image]

That game looks to have an LCD monitor in it. Those reflect dimmer than a CRT. I have a CRT, and everything is bright and text is legible. LEDs don’t detract at all. The only effect I notice that’s different is a slight strobe between levels instead of the fade. I’m ok with that as a trade off, it looks so much better otherwise.

#23 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

That game looks to have an LCD monitor in it. Those reflect dimmer than a CRT. I have a CRT, and everything is bright and text is legible. LEDs don’t detract at all. The only effect I notice that’s different is a slight strobe between levels instead of the fade. I’m ok with that as a trade off, it looks so much better otherwise.

Huh? You got it backwards, an LCD reflects brighter than a CRT. At least mine does. I had to tone mine wayyyy down to make it look closer to a CRT - adjusting brightness and contrast to get the black to disappear. It worked beautifully. I had the original Wells monitor, and added the Ultimarc amp which made the CRT much brighter. When I decided to switch to a modern computer to upgrade the software, I elected to try an LCD monitor rather than convert the signal back to the monitor. It's even better. Bright, crisp, and full of detail - you can see stars in the background, and much more. I'll never go back.

Btw - the game with the CRT needs color adjustment. Portions of the text should be light blue, not purple.
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#24 9 months ago

Maybe I haven’t seen an RFM with a good LCD job, then. I always notice the wrong aspect ratio (16:9 monitors make all the round objects into ovals) and how jagged and flat everything is (CRT’s curve & scanlines give all the objects more smoothness and depth).

#25 9 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

I always notice the wrong aspect ratio (16:9 monitors make all the round objects into ovals) and how jagged and flat everything is (CRT’s curve & scanlines give all the objects more smoothness and depth).

This could be a problem with using the stock game computer with a 16:9 monitor. I have a Pinbox/Nucore running on an aftermarket pc. When set to 4:3 it doesn't look good and does not line up correctly. When set to 16:9 it is perfect, everything lines up good and not stretched.

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