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PHASE 1 COMPLETED 11/26/19 - Cabinet Restoration

- Cabinet stripped, repaired, painted, screen printed, and new decals added
- All new powder coated trim, including coin door and lockdown receiver
- All interior metal work either cleaned or painted and gloss coated
- All wiring cleaned and repaired where necessary
- Returned to factory CRT configuration with rebuilt/re-capped WG CRT monitor
- Returned to factory fluorescent bulb with rebuilt lamp assembly.
- Power entry rebuilt (new varistor and transformer programming plug)
- Power driver board cleaned and repaired where necessary (new fuse holder and power resistors)
- Rebuilt flipper button PCBs with new cherry switches.
- New Williams cabinet identification decals for interior and exterior
- New Pinball 2000 glass
- New corrugated split loom
- New cable clamps
- New power driver board cover
- New speaker system
- New Pinball 2000 flipper button assemblies
- New 9P and 25P computer cables
- New locks for service lock and coin door
- New CPU heat sink and fan assembly, properly installed with high performance heat sink compound.
- New AT power supply with proper power switch.
- New head bolts
- New Upgrade: Shaker motor (for use with 2.10 SW release)
- New Upgrade: Knocker solendoid (for use with 2.10 SW release)
- New Upgrade: Pingraffix art blades

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PHASE 1 BEGINS 08/17/19 - Cabinet Restoration

Finally digging into this ... disassembly was easy because it’s modular. I’ve most everything I need for this ... but I’m sure I’ll find some more bits along the way.

My poor machine has been abused, certainly a routed machine ... lots of filth and body damage ... one side was re-decal’d over the original. It’s just a mess. 7 out of the 8 leg bolts were stripped (bolts and anchor plates), it was literally unsafe to be setup. Inside it was a hack fest and converted to LCD but I’m returning it back to its native CRT configuration. I’ve found a couple of small things that need attention on the driver board. But mainly once I get through the filth and body repair it will be pretty smooth sailing. I’m not tackling a full tear down of the playfield at this time... I’ll give it a good cleaning and fix the things that need to be addressed (pop bumpers, stroke of luck weldment, stroke of luck hole (heavily damaged), rubbers and missing/cracked plastics. This resto will mainly be about the body work. It will be 100% completed when I find a NOS playfield that I can get cleared.

All my photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rAhmGBEYxmqfAD5cA

Handling AbuseLots of deep scuffs covered with paintRight side not too bad...from afar, but far from good
Most corners are just a mess!
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Decals off!

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This is my “warm up” exercise ... I’ve an IJ that I will be doing next. Been years since I’ve done restorations.

About 60% there... with sanding. Did some reinforcing and fixed de-lamination on the corners

First pass ... get rid of all the decal glue residue as well as the grime on the bottom. Spend the time to get to know all of the areas needing attention with bondo.

I removed the floor cleats as I will be making some new ones. I just pushed them back on so I can use them for now.
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Bondo... man if it wasn’t for the asphyxiating fumes ... I could work with this stuff all day! Right before it cures it’s so easily trimmed with a razor... very gratifying.

Little more touch up on the corners .. the one bad corner is working out nicely.

I’m happy with the fixes to the front panel. Unfortunately due to all the damage I’m not going to have a nice exposed plywood edge on the underside ... I will be bringing the paint all the way around. I considered gluing a piece of plywood “veneer” but it’s just not that big of deal to me. It’s not going to be chewed up and will have nice clean line for painting.
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Corners are done ... at least until the final sanding...

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Done with repair !!!! Just some bondo crumbs remain.

Tomorrow the entire cab gets a once over with 220 grit.

It’s been high 90’s-100 since I started this. I may have shortened my life expectancy.

Paint later in the week when the heat breaks.

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Did another “double check” pass at the cabinet ... found a couple of whoopsies ...

Done now... tomorrow final sanding.

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Waited for the weather to break...

Getting prepped for painting. As always ... finding little bits of body work along the way.

Masking is not fun. Using tape for rough surfaces and masking paper that can tolerate lacquer. Blue tape isn’t as robust as it used to be (purposely delicate adhesive) ... so you should use the green crap.

I re-chamfered the bottom edge with the 45 degree chamfer bit.. to give it that "factory" machined look. I could have sanded it but the router cut looks much better.

I’ve decided not to pull all the ground strap out of the head... I’m just going to clean it and mask it off and lightly re-top coat the black.

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Pile of new cable clamps came today while I was in the garage. I’m not wasting my time cleaning the originals. I’ve also ordered new 25 and 9 pin D-Sub cables. The originals were so grimy. For the new ones I got black instead of the basic cream colored cables.

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New cleats... they don't look like they are beveled on the end ... they are 30 degrees.
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First coat of primer... gonna need a little 400 grit before the next. I’m only doing 2 light coats.

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Look at that f***er!!!! Didn’t show up (I missed it) until I painted !!!!

Gonna have to inject it with some glue!!!!

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Sanded primer with 400 grit ... second coat today! Waiting for my paint to arrive.

So far so good!

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First coat !!!

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Got some supplies today !!! T-molding and new parallel and serial cables.

I’m going to experiment with a different shade of red or black t-molding. Got the correct factory bright red color just in case I don’t like the new color options. My trim is powder coated a ruby red so I’m thinking a darker red or black t-molding ... dunno ... we’ll see. I’m thinking it’s gonna end up being black... not factory colors but neither will be the cabinet trim.

For those who wish to know ... 9 feet will do each side of the head. T-molding.com sells common colors in 20’ rolls ... so their standard unit is enough to redo this machine.

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Final exterior coat done !!! I’ll get the inside done this weekend. Looking like next week will be decal week.
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First coat of interior!!! Sorry to keep posting boring pics... but this is real time progress. Getting closer to the more interesting stuff!

For spray equipment I’m using an entry level turbine HVLP sprayer with its 1.0 ultra fine needle/nozzle. Works well enough for this project. I’m also using rustoleum semi gloss enamel, thinned 70/30-ish with acetone. It paints fast and produces zero orange peel.
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Quick coat on the cleats

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Prep for silk screening. I presumed that PB2K would have different patent numbers ... turns out they are the same as WPC! So I can use my WPC silkscreen!!!

Got it aligned... need to make hook bracket so I can squeegee.
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Bracket for the silkscreen...
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Aligned and ready ! This is my first ever screening!!!

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Pretty pleased ! I used the ink straight from the can... didn’t have any Nazdar thinner.

Taped some Funspot tokens for the spacers between the silkscreen and the cabinet.

Also installed the cleats... I’m waiting for the cabinet manufacturer and UL labels when the side art is done... and up on its legs.

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Been scrutinizing the interior paint job... lots of dents and scrapes I didn’t properly tend to... and they came out in the finish. Since this part of the cabinet will be VERY visible ... I wanted it to be perfect.

Now that is done!

Oh and I also forgot about the damned door!!!! That’s been annoying me to...

I’m tired of painting.

If I can get decals on this week then no bother.
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Did the coin door panel tonight. That’s all I have the stomach for. It’s not perfect... I had a slight slip on the left side and had to pull it up a bit... so it looks more crooked (by the registration marks) than it really is due to some stretching on the bottom corner.

Not fond of these “Next Gen2” decals. The black isn’t true black ... under white light it has a purple tint to it.
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Got a few bits from down under today !

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One side done... and a sneak peak of the trim...

This was my first decal job (I’ve done arcade cabs before)... not looking for perfection ... it’s a warm up restoration for when I do my IJ

The weak “blue-black” doesn’t look so bad now that it’s adjacent to another of its kind... up against the black paint ... doesn’t look so black. When all the trim is in place it will look fine-enough.

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Hadn’t even taken the trim out of the box (except lockdown) until this. Great color choice on you’re part ! Think I’m going with the black T-molding on the head so the trim will really stand out.

Got a set of art blades from pingraffix... I’m contemplating using. The right one arrived defective so that needs to be addressed. I’m thinking I kind of like these.
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Ground strap and leg anchor plates in place! I’m putting in a shaker motor so ran the obligatory strap underneath where the motor mount sits.

Rather that have the strap be mounted to each plate with as screw the way the factory ran it... I ran it behind the plates. It just looks better.
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Artwork savers installed ! Almost forgot to remove the decal from under the surface of the spacer (I boogered up the peel on the top of that right leg spacer ... but its not gonna show)!

The direct sunlight on that front panel really shows how "blue-black" these decals look. Under normal "room" lighting... it doesn't look like that.
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Side rails on!!!

3M™ 5952 Double Sided VHB™ Acrylic Foam Tape is the right double sided adhesive foam tape for the job! I got it from pinrestore.com, it’s available everywhere. I initially got some from marcosspeicalties and they sell the standard 3M foam tape and its NOT the right stuff.

Very easy install ... use the trim bolt for alignment and just press fit.
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Cleaning and refinishing the playfield slide mounting bolts. They get a light dusting of primer and 2 light coats of semi-gloss black.
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A little acetone melts the paint off of the cabinet hardware like butta ! Wipe and be done!
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And we are leaving the garage !!! Gonna start stuffing it soon... I forgot to tack the vent grille and the vertical ground strap... whoops.

Next up is the head... I've yet to put the artwork and t-molding on it. Anxious to see if the black t-molding looks good or not. I just ordered a new set of speakers as well.

I like the powder coating... its not a direct match for the red in the artwork but I didn't want that as I felt it would have been too bright. However, in direct light it really does shine.
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Black t-molding color test. I’m sticking with it!

Original red kind of a bit bright for the powder coat (I expected that). The darker red t-molding just added another red in the mix and looked really bad ... too busy.

The black is perfect... it brings the tone of the machine down a bit ... and when that playfield is in I think it will all look even better. Generally I’m not a fan of tweaking factory colors... but wanted to try something different here.
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Fun part... when you have all the doo-dads and your basically just building it!

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Thank you !!! Non standard stuff is tricky ... and very personal. I came real close to just doing the factory colors... Robertstone0407 convinced me with his color suggestions so I figured what the heck... it’s not like I’m massacring a classic here... but I do love the game and am pleased with it so far.

Did a little bit of re-work of the buttons. I got new button assemblies and replaced the actuators. I didn't think it was necessary to spend the 2x $30-$40 on a new PCB assemblies. With a little bit of basic soldering, just replace the $3 button actuators.
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Restoration budgets and schedules... death by a thousand little grimy cuts.

Try as I may... cleaning this cheap zinc coated bracket just isn’t yielding any fruit...

Still looks like shit!

I think I’m just going to paint it gloss gray and be done with it.
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Ran out to home cheapo and picked up some canned "metallic" satin nickel finish. I'll give this a try... but I’ve very little faith in “metallic” finishes in a can of ANY kind.
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You guessed correctly This paint actually is pretty good... I'm shocked! Usually this kind of fake metallic stuff is crapolla. At one point I considered having all the interior metalwork powder coated but I've reached my limit in terms of how much I wanted to dump into this.