(Topic ID: 128353)

Retro Gaming/Audio/Video Discussion

By Crash

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 96 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Crash
  • Topic is favorited by 5 Pinsiders

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#6 8 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Hmm... I've got a 32" Sony CRT sitting in my garage to be thrown out. Never thought of using it for old gaming.
Then again... the thing is sooooo damn heavy.

It's always amazed me how heavey Sony CRT sets were compared to other brands. Had a Sony 25" set that took two people to move. Also had a Panasonic 25" set that I could carry with some effort.

#7 8 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Don't get rid of it, it's a freaking Trinitron. Hook it up to your old NES/SNES/Genesis/N64/PSX and it will look fantastic. People are giving this old stuff away and gamers have kind of built their own retro "shrine" around them complete with surround system, multiple consoles, and switch boxes.

Not a week goes by that I don't see something like that sitting on the curb in front of a house in the neighborhood (or an DLP set!). Shame that they go to waste like that.

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I drove around town for a little while during spring pickup week and saw three sets on the curb. Two were on the same street and were picked up before I got a chance to check them out. Another was a 27" model with component inputs in someone's front yard. Two of them were flat CRT Philips, one was a standard bubble tube. Seems like flat Philips TVs are common recycling material these days. I personally like mid to late 90s curved screen TVs with s-video inputs. To me the flat screen ones have oversized bezels and don't look as sharp (probably because of the upscaling).

Projecting an image on a "Flat" CRT is a lot more complicated than a standard CRT. The beam has to be focuses differently from the edges to the center of the screen because there's less curve, the center is closer than the edges are to the electron emitter, so the set is constantly adjusting the focus as it scans. That's why it probably doesn't look as sharp.

1 week later
#22 8 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

When I first turned it on the picture was terribly burry, squished, and had bad color bleed. Was starting to worry I had a dud. So I took the back off and made some adjustments to the G2 and focus voltages and the picture popped back to perfect. So I dunno... it's probably a power supply warm-up period (it's 12 years old so possibly aging caps, though I didn't spot any bulging or leaking caps on the chassis board). Glad I tweaked it anyway because now it looks awesome. I got it from Pintucky for the low low price of free. Now I gotta hope my games won't start speaking Mexican!
image-15.jpg image.jpg image-30.jpg

This is one reason I'm trying to get my hands on a B&K 470 or 480 CRT tester / Rejuvinator. Maybe some tube sets with dim CRTs can be revived or extended.

1 month later
#41 8 years ago

All I know is I've been playing DooM 64 on a 32" LG LCD, and it's still to damned dark.

3 weeks later
#50 8 years ago
Quoted from playboywillis:

You ever play Brutal Doom?

I had not even heard of it before. It kind of looks like a cross between Playstation Doom, Windows Doom and Doom 64.

2 months later
#60 8 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Has anyone tried using RGB SCART with a computer monitor? I heard some monitors won't accept 15kHz signals.

I only know of a few that do sync at 15Khz like some Commodore Amiga Multisync monitors, or some high end Bosch Monitors.

#61 8 years ago
Quoted from Luckydogg420:

a trip to Best Buy showed me there's no adapter from Coax to Composite (there's vice versa, but it's not backwards compatible).
Sure there is. The easiest way would be to find a VCR. What you need to find a video modulator. NOT an RF modulator. image.jpg
The top one in the pic is just an rf modulator, it will down convert video to coaxial. These are common
The bottom one here is a multi-switcher that can take a coax signal and output it on the rca wires. Might be hard to find now a days. I've had this one for ~15 years.
Any VCR can do this for you too.

Depending on how much work you want to do on a classic console, you can get separate video and audio out from them. you only need to tap the audio and video signals going to the RF modulator that sends out he signal for the antenna output. I did this with a damaged NES top loader that the connector was broken off on. It's pretty much the same for any device that outputs to an antenna connection.
You just tap the audio, video line to the module, and a common (what most people refer to as "Ground") and run hem to a pair of RCA connectors. I'll try to get a photo of the NES I did some time this week and post it.

#63 8 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

... While we're on the subject, it's possible to do the complete opposite with TVs. It's much like adding outputs to consoles, but you're adding extra inputs to your monitor....

I remember in some gaming magazine back in the '80s telling how to do that (Electronic Gaming Monthly I believe)

#66 8 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

I'd like to see that article.

Wish I could find it. Not sure if EMG was the right magazine, but i seems like it.

Edit: I meant Electronic Games. BTW here's a site that has scans of several issues from back in the day:

https://archive.org/details/electronic-games-magazine

1 week later
#68 8 years ago

So I just completed my first SEGA Dreamcast CMOS Battery mod:

Dreamcast CMOS Battery.jpgDreamcast CMOS Battery.jpg

No More resetting the time when the console looses power, And no more soldering to replace the LiR2032 battery when it wont charge.

#71 8 years ago

So I dug out a SEGA Saturn that I've needed to re solder the battery holder back down onto the PC board today. Sure, only three contacts. Should only take a few minutes to do, right? ... until you see what it takes to get to it:
Saturn 1.jpgSaturn 1.jpg

... just to fix this:

Saturn Battery.jpgSaturn Battery.jpg

And it turns out this was a bad job from the factory. The pin on the edge of the board was never soldered on right!

#73 8 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Reminds me of tearing down a whole playfield just to fix a switch. Have you tried memory capacitors?

It probably wouldn't work on the Saturn without some board modifications because there's no way to charge it, but would be great for a Dreamcast since it uses a LiR2032 rechargeable battery.

4 months later
#76 8 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

Posted this on another forum.
I found an old eMachines 17" PC monitor a while back and decided to build a Windows 98 machine around it. The picture is freaking incredible for a consumer product. I have never seen a Sony PVM but judging by the photos compared to my pictures it looks pretty darn close. The convergence is a bit sloppy at the corners but that's to be expected. It's technically a flat viewing surface but I don't think it's a "flat tube" per say. It may be appropriate to call a good PC monitor a poor man's PVM. It even syncs at 1080p 60Hz but with a bit of overscan. I cannot believe I haven't used a CRT PC monitor for these old CD-ROM games since my high school days. They look like utter crap on my 22" 1080p LCD.
The color saturation is really washed out in these photos but in person this display is gorgeous. A mix of 240p and 480p images, I used a hard edge scanline filter for the 240p ones. Since this monitor is 31kHz only inserting a black line mask reproduces the double strike effect with real scanlines. Some games do this too such as the StarCraft character portraits during campaign mission briefings to save vertical resolution in the sprites. Only the 240p photos are a full frame shot since they blur together past that point with 480p. Screen refresh rate is 120Hz.
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Abe Vigoda.

5 months later
#91 7 years ago

So I scored an Emerson 20" Standard definition CRT T.V. with a flat tube for only $6. Best part, it was made in 2008 so it has both analog and digital tuning. Just what I need to test some of my consoles on and test some of my light guns for various systems.

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