(Topic ID: 92499)

Resurrecting TFTC -- A Clearcoat & Powdercoat Adventure

By Mudflaps

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Curbfeeler
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 14 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

photo 2.JPG
photo 1.JPG
photo 1.JPG
photo 2.JPG

#1 6 years ago

I've always liked these threads, so here goes.

I purchased TFTC a few months back in really good shape. No issues, everything worked great. The most annoying aspect was the scoop shot... The game had typical wear covered by a Cliffy. An otherwise perfect shot would be rejected followed by a metallic 'thunk.' I thought, "Hmm, I wonder if I can fix that." This thought was coincided by the release of new CPR plastics. That sealed the deal.... I would breathe new life into my game.

I decided to strip, repair, and clearcoat my game with no prior experience whatsoever. But shit, if I'm going to do that, why not go the extra mile? If I'm already stripping the game and doing new plastics, I guess I'll send the trim out for powdercoat. And if I do that, why not the ramps? And since I'm down there, maybe some new FF speakers to eliminate that nasty hum. And boy, that coin door sure could use an upgrade. And so on...

Taking the advice of some previous threads, I started with tons of pictures. After that, I stripped the playfield into small Ziploc bags while taking copious photos. I labeled each bag for its position on the playfield. At the same time, I pulled the trim and sent it off to Matt at Back Alley. I wrestled with color choice (thoughts of lime green, gray, red, etc), but I ultimately settled for a simple black gloss. Nothing too flashy, but subtle enough to maintain its personality. I pulled the connections from the boards after labeling the wires and I was set.

With the game totally stripped, I prepped the playfield:

- Sanded the surface with 600 grit
- Repaired the scoop with JB Weld... for this, I scuffed up the wear so the weld would 'bite into' the playfield. After it dried, I sanded flat and touched up with acrylics. Paint matching wasn't hard, just a very dark blue with black trim. I color matched the wood as closely as possible.
- For the clearcoat, I decided to use SprayMax 2K (purchased from eBay for around $20 a can). I bought two cans, but ultimately needed more to correct some unevenness.

I followed the guide on pinrepair.com/clear to the letter. Lots of safety equipment -- don't skimp on the mask, goggles, gloves, or body suit. I don't have a rotisserie, so I used plastic sawhorses to keep the game level. One light coat and two heavy coats with sanding afterward. I was unhappy with some minor imperfections, so I re-sprayed too thickly and wound up with big imperfections. Lots of sanding later with two more coats and I was happy. I polished with my buddy's Treasure Cove kit and an orbital polisher.

Meanwhile, pinballlife and marco became my new best friends. I ordered a new coin door and decided to repair the VUK, rebuild the flippers, install new drop targets, replace all of the decals, and otherwise clean and tumble all of the metal. The inner walls of the game were pretty beat up, so I bought mirror blades from pinballsidemirrors.com on their Black Friday special. Any of you with DE games knows the playfield is pretty tight, so I sanded the playfield edges to better allow for the thickness of the mirrors. I also tweaked some LEDs to taste -- mostly cool whites and greens.

My powdercoat arrived from Matt about the same time I finished the clearcoat. As always, he does fantastic work and he is highly recommended. Communication and shipping were top notch. I installed my new trim and proceeded to rebuild the top side after re-installing the playfield in the cabinet. All of my pictures were invaluable... I walked a fine line between keeping everything original or adjusting to taste. For instance, I left some spotlights out (notably the two lights at the drop targets) because I felt they looked out of place. Also, with the brightness of the LEDs, they weren't really needed. I also replaced the factory spotlights with pinballlife spotlights (black wires instead of yellow wires). In my mind, the motif for this game was black & green without a lot of wire or clutter.

So after finishing the top side (huge victory), I reconnected the boards and double checked everything. There were literally hundreds of things that could have gone wrong. I rebuilt the flippers and VUK along with new speakers, wires, new plastics, coils, new solder all over the place, you name it. And of course, I had my little baggie of extra washers and screws that was left over.

Anyone who has ever done this knows what it feels like to turn on the game for the first time after everything is done. Needless to say, I was nervous. I fully expected the game to smoke, catch fire, or do nothing at all. I turned it on and everything lit up. I hit the start button and everything worked perfectly! And yes, I know you're supposed to wait AT LEAST 30 days before you play a ball, but I just couldn't help it. I'll let the game rest now knowing it works... BTW, the FF system on this game sounds phenomenal.

Ultimately, I learned tons about the process. This project was in my mind while I was out of the country for 6 months, so it feels good to see it to fruition. It was a blast and I want to thank several pinside members for their support while I was gone (you know who you are), but especially jsalce for letting me borrow all kinds of shit and answering my panicked texts. From start to finish, it took me just over a month.

Enough yapping... here are the pictures. I'm still waiting to install new apron decals and the mirror blades (don't want to scratch them with constantly lifting the playfield), but it's basically a finished product. More to follow. Enjoy:

photo 2.JPGDSC_0207.JPGDSC_0203.JPGDSC_0204.JPGDSC_0173.JPGphoto 1.JPGDSC_0066.jpg

#2 6 years ago


photo 1.JPGphoto 2.JPG

#3 6 years ago

Looking good!

#4 6 years ago

very nice, I wish I had the space to try that rattle can stuff out.

#5 6 years ago

Can we see the wear before?

#6 6 years ago

Is that pic of the cleared playfield while it's still wet or does it still look that good?
Edit: not trying to pick on your work, trying to figure out how great that SprayMax is...

#7 6 years ago

How exactly did you do the "Welcome To The Crypt" on the glare guard?

Do tell and share.


#8 6 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Can we see the wear before?

Here's a better shot:

Quoted from PhilGreg:

Is that pic of the cleared playfield while it's still wet or does it still look that good?
Edit: not trying to pick on your work, trying to figure out how great that SprayMax is...

That's after coat 2… I had to buff out later to level. SprayMax is awesome.

Quoted from RussMyers:

How exactly did you do the "Welcome To The Crypt" on the glare guard?
Do tell and share.

I'm actually going to start a separate thread on that, but decalfusion.com does them. The font is Creepy Italic, and the color is neon green. Normally they're about $6 or so, but that one was $11 because of the color. Decalfusion.com is awesome and they ship super fast.

#9 6 years ago

Yes yes hh heh he. From the Cryptkeeper.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Here's a better shot:

That's after coat 2… I had to buff out later to level. SprayMax is awesome.
DSC_0162.JPG 453 KB

Can you show a pic that shows what the shine on the finished product looks like?

#11 6 years ago

Taken with my crappy iPhone, but the mirror blades are in:


#12 6 years ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Here's a better shot:

That's after coat 2… I had to buff out later to level. SprayMax is awesome.

Agreed spray max is great stuff!

#13 6 years ago

Dude!! You rock. Looks great....

#14 6 years ago

Thanks Tad! Those FF speakers turned out really good.

#15 6 years ago

Mirror blades really work in this game.....I need an upgrade in that department. Great looking TFTC MFlaps!

#16 6 years ago

Absolutely worth the upgrade, especially because most DE games I've seen have scratched up interior cabs due to the tight fit. I sanded the playfield a bit before installation... good idea. It's tight but it works.

1 week later
#17 6 years ago

I've seen this in person. Fantastic job!

Nicest TFTC I've ever seen.

3 months later
#18 6 years ago

Love it! I'm going to do my second coat of SprayMax on Friday. Hope it looks as good as yours!


PS: Any advice for SprayMax hopefuls?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
$ 64.00

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside