Picked up a Quick Draw today for a good price. Game is complete and has a pretty darn good condition playfield and back-glass. Needs cabinet work but overall I think it's going to turn out nicely.

Since I already have a beautiful Quick Draw in my collection, this one will be a restore-to-sell project. I'll keep this thread going once I begin the project (need to finish up the Cow Poke I'm fixing for a neighbor first), as I know I'll have some cabinet questions. May end up buying some Pinball Pimp stencils and do a full repaint (did this on my Atlantis).

I'll post pics soon, but I'm excited about this find!

Mark

Ok here are a few photos of the game as I was putting it into my climate-controlled storage unit. Hope to start working on it in March. The cabinet -- especially where he tried to "repair" the front will need some serious attention.

I'm thinking complete cabinet repair and repaint (along with fixing the front), new coin door and entry plate (will try evaporust first, but that door is bent), new plastics, and maybe a new back-glass. This is a game I am going to sell (since I already have a Quick Draw).

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Yep. It will be small profit margin and a pretty high sale price at that. As you said, worth saving and there's some intrinsic value in that for me -- just to know another of these gems is looking and working well in a good home to preserve its history and give someone enjoyment.

If I start to look for a donor cabinet (went that route for my Atlantis restoration last year), what specifically should I be asking for? It was easy when I could say "Gottlieb wedgehead cabinet", but in this case if I just ask for a 70s Gottlieb two-player cabinet is that enough? Or is there a specific size/model I should specify when looking/posting ads?

Ok this project is back on. Big thanks to pinhead52 for sourcing a donor cabinet (formerly a Gottlieb Outer Space)!

Now I need paint colors. Can someone please recommend the correct Krylon (or another brand) rattle-can colors for Quick Draw? I'd like the antique white, the blue and the red. I'll also buy some black laquer paint to do the flecking with a toothbrush, as I did on my Atlantis restoration.

Thank you for this information!

Mark

Made some good progress yesterday. The former "Outer Space" cabinet is now without its old paint scheme and is ready for minor putty work and primer this week. I also stripped the Quick Draw pain from the Quick Draw head since it will need to mach the new paint on the donor cabinet.

I'll then add the Rustoleum Heirloom White base coat and hope to be ready to do the flecking by next weekend. Going to swing by the The Paint Yard since they're located here in San Antonio (Thanks pinhead52 for the pro tip!) and pick up a few cans of the Chili and Light Blue colors as suggested above.

As I did on my Atlantis restoration, I used Citrus Strip, which is a fantastic product and very easy to use, and a plastic scraper. I also wiped the excess off with an old microfiber rag.

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The Outer Space cab, which will become a Quick Draw.

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An in-progress shot of paint stripping.

Ha!

More progress yesterday: After getting the primer coat done on Friday, yesterday I got the Heirloom White base paint (2 coats) on the head and cabinet.

Next step is the black flecking.

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Thanks, me too! This is the second Quick Draw I'm restoring. I have one in my permanent collection as well. This one I'll refurbish and sell.

Hi guys, I'm slowly going through the mechanicals (starting with the board in the head of the game) while I wait for my stencils to arrive for the cabinet.

On a couple of score reels, I noticed upon careful inspection that these switches up near the coil are missing the switch contacts. The blade is there, but in a couple of cases there's not the little contact piece. (See where I'm pointing with tip of screwdriver in attached photo).

Is it easier / better for me to try to find and reinstall just the contact point? (No idea how to do that) Or would I cannibalize some extra Decagon reels I've got laying around and just disassemble those switch stacks, remove the right blades (with the contacts intact) that I need, and then put them into the Quick Draw I' restoring by taking those switch stacks apart, unsoldering the blades I need to replace, and then swapping in the blades from the cannibalized Decagons?

Appreciate your expertise.

Mark

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I think I'll go with the first option you suggest and replace the blades/contacts altogether since I don't have a rivet tool. Thanks!

Hoov, when you say "start the rivet out" -- are you referring to the new rivet/switch contact? So I can buy new ones from PBR (or use a punch to remove them from extra switches I have laying around?) and then just tap them into the hole on the existing switch-blade using a ball-peen hammer?

Ok that makes sense. I will include new contacts when I do my big PBR order. Based on the two kinds shown on this page at PBR, which are the right ones to get?

http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm#gtbp

Sounds good. And isn't the one I am pointing to in the photo above an EOS switch?

Ok thanks, guys! In other news, my Pinball Pimp Stencils arrive any day now!

Finally got the new stencils done on Quick Draw #2 (#1 will stay in my collection; #2 will be sold). Turned out pretty good (sorry these pics aren't the sharpest). For some reason my camera made the red look uneven (darker/lighter) in some places, but it doesn't look uneven in reality.

I do love the Pinball Pimp stencils. I didn't do as good a job on the flecking as I did on Atlantis, but overall I'm happy with it. I have a few touch-ups to do but the painting is mostly done now (yay!).

Now to begin going through all the mechanicals and making a parts list for PBR...

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I’ve been doing some touch ups on the playfield (mostly black around the inserts) and it’s time to repaint the two wear spots by the kickout holes.

The wear isn’t terrible but it’s enough that I’d like to touch up.

I will mix Testors paint to get a close match, and because these spots are worn down to the wood I’d like to put down some sort of whit primer on those spots first. I think the light blue will end up looking better.

What do you guys recommend for small spots like this in terms of a primer?

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Completed the touch-ups of the worn spots above the two kickout holes yesterday by mixing Testor paints to color-match as closely as I could. I am pleased with the results. Once waxed, covered with protective mylar (to prevent future damage to these problem kick-out hole spots), and with the playfield all put together, I don't think they'll be noticeable at all.

Regardless, looks WAY better than the two worn spots in the previous post. I will go back and make sure those black key-lines are sharp after I wait a few days for the blue to dry.

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Thanks Dave!