They were cut for an "instant fix", but should have been replaced as soon as possible.

Just like if your car is low on radiator coolant, you will put in water to get the car back on the road; but as soon as possible, you replace the water with proper fluid.

Without the caps properly installed, your switch will not register every time the ball hits it.

Super common electronic part

.047uf 50v

Those pins were used to align the flippers.

You want a straight line down the inlane wire guide and transfer the ball to the flipper with the minimum of "hop".

Chances are the correct alignment with the pins is with the rubber on (although this has been known to vary).

Don't even worry about the pins, just use a small straightedge, and make sure the flipper is at the SAME angle as the inlane wire guide.

nine-ball-flipper-pins.jpg

Ted Mottor, who apparently wanted some big ball hop.........lol.

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1678&picno=31372&zoom=1

Solder Braid or Desoldering Pump is not an either/or situation.

There will be times when either is needed.

I would just replace the diode.

They can be flaky.

It's the same effort to clip one leg and measure it, as it would be to just replace such a commonly failed component.

Post a picture with the glass off.

Looks like your coil stops (most likely) or plungers are worn out.

Obviously, as the Coil Stop and Plungers wear, the range of motion increases.

There have been times that the wrong coil stops are in the kits....

277715-i.jpg

You could bend the stop tab towards the coil with a big wrench to limit the flipper range of motion.

After moving it, realign the flipper bats, of course.

stn_assembly.jpg

Or, **gasp**, put Williams flipper bats in instead.

Don't even cut.

Put your soldering iron on the tab, gently pull on the wire just as the solder becomes shiny.

You need to make some of these in different amperages:

fuse_breaker.jpg

That is a blown fuse, soldered to a circuit breaker.

So instead of constantly replacing fuses, you simply reset the circuit breaker button.

Once you fix the fault, you pull the breaker and install the proper fuse.

-

You can get breakers in different amperages, so I usually carry in my kit:

1 - 1 amp

2 - 3 amp

2 - 5 amp

1 -10 amp

1- 20 amp

If the circuit calls for a 7 amp fuse, I of course use a 5 amp . If it needs a 2.5 amp, I use a 1 amp - always choose the next lowest value if you don't have an exact match.

Cheaper than running through boxes of fuses:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=56

A fuse blows because too much current is flowing through it.

You can have a bad diode, a flaky diode, a shorted coil, a shorted transistor, a short in the wiring, or a shorted driver chip for the transistor.

A lot of reasons.

-

You will find the problem. But there are different way to approach it.

For instance, let's say you use a piece of wire and ground the tab of the driver transistor, and every time you do the knocker, the fuse blows....

Or lets say every time you start a game, one of the pop bumpers locks on....

Or a diverter grounds out during multiball.....

Breakers are usually Slo-Blo.

Where you using fast-blo fuses?

Let's have some interesting fun.

Put your meter in AMPERAGE mode. ( you might have to move the leads to the AMP terminals, if your meter uses them)

Remove one leg of the breaker from the fuse clip.

One meter lead on the breaker, the other lead on the un-used clip of the fuse holder (so the meter is completing the circuit).

Now, read how many Amps the circuit is drawing....

20ma is too small.

Put it on 5 or 10 amps.

Using the circuit breaker, play some games.

Feel if any of the coils are hot.

If not, then use the 2 or 2,5A fuse.

There is 43v at the coils, right?

Sorry about that.

Meter on DC volts, what voltage are you reading with a lead on both coil lugs?

The problem with a 40 year old piece of commercial equipment, is that you don't know what the 100 other techs that have worked on the game have done to it.

"techs" may have swapped coils, diodes, parts, "stolen" power from other sources in the game, bypassed safety features in the game.....

I've seen where the transformer was incorrectly swapped from another game.

I've seen where someone gathered every broken circuit board they had and put them into a single "project" game for sale.

I've seen where someone sprayed WD40 into every coil, gumming up every moving part on a game.

So, since "we can't see it from here", us internet techs have to be pretty careful in doling out the online advice....better safe than sorry.

What is the voltage on TP4 of the rectifier board? (remember to put your meter on AC for this measurment)

One lead to the ground trace along the side of the board, the other to TP4, meter on AC

Meter still on AC, do you have voltage on either side of that 20A fuse clip?

Fuse is bad, or fuse clips are bad.

There should be no resistance on the fuse.

Your meter should read it like if you touched the leads to each other.

Yes:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing/page/2#post-2113931

No shame in buying new.

Save the old one, or give it to your local pin tech.