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(Topic ID: 123214)

Restoring a Nine Ball

By aKa

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 293 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Classic_Stern
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders


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There have been 43 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Right flipper assembly.jpg
Left flipper assembly.jpg
Flipper assemblies placement.jpg
Right slingshot switches.jpg
Left slingshot switches.jpg
Flippers assemblies wiring.jpg

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#12 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

I guess they are not essential for now, but I'll keep that in mind. Funny that they were deliberately cut ...

They were cut for an "instant fix", but should have been replaced as soon as possible.

Just like if your car is low on radiator coolant, you will put in water to get the car back on the road; but as soon as possible, you replace the water with proper fluid.

Without the caps properly installed, your switch will not register every time the ball hits it.

#31 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

Can I find these capacitors in any hardware store, or do they have weird old ss pinball values ?

Super common electronic part

.047uf 50v

2 months later
#155 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

On a totally unrelated subject, I've been wondering about the two pinholes below the flippers. There's no pins on my machine, and I don't know if there's supposed to be ones, or if those holes are just there to help align the flippers (if so, with or without the rubbers ?).

Those pins were used to align the flippers.

You want a straight line down the inlane wire guide and transfer the ball to the flipper with the minimum of "hop".

Chances are the correct alignment with the pins is with the rubber on (although this has been known to vary).

Don't even worry about the pins, just use a small straightedge, and make sure the flipper is at the SAME angle as the inlane wire guide.

#157 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Who put Williams flippers on their classic Stern????

Ted Mottor, who apparently wanted some big ball

#175 5 years ago

Solder Braid or Desoldering Pump is not an either/or situation.

There will be times when either is needed.

1 week later
#195 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

Loop target coil has the correct resistance and the corresponding driver transistor on the solenoid board reads OK. Should I cut one end of the coil diode to test it ? Something else ?

I would just replace the diode.

They can be flaky.

It's the same effort to clip one leg and measure it, as it would be to just replace such a commonly failed component.

#197 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

I have another puzzling issue with the flippers. When they're up (from a starting position aligned with the rails and the pins pressing against the rubbers), their rubbers are pressing hard against the edge of the rails, denting the rubbers and pushing back the flippers when the smaller coils take over at the end-of-stroke, making the flippers jerk between their two coils, which I assume is not good.

Post a picture with the glass off.

#199 5 years ago

Looks like your coil stops (most likely) or plungers are worn out.

#201 5 years ago

Obviously, as the Coil Stop and Plungers wear, the range of motion increases.

There have been times that the wrong coil stops are in the kits....


#203 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

My whole flipper assemblies are brand new, classic stern reproductions from Pinball Life.

You could bend the stop tab towards the coil with a big wrench to limit the flipper range of motion.

After moving it, realign the flipper bats, of course.

#205 5 years ago


#210 5 years ago

Or, **gasp**, put Williams flipper bats in instead.

#213 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

Is there a simple way to disconnect a coil to see if it's the source of my troubles, or does it necessarily involve cutting then resoldering ?

Don't even cut.

Put your soldering iron on the tab, gently pull on the wire just as the solder becomes shiny.

#217 5 years ago

You need to make some of these in different amperages:


#219 5 years ago

That is a blown fuse, soldered to a circuit breaker.

So instead of constantly replacing fuses, you simply reset the circuit breaker button.

Once you fix the fault, you pull the breaker and install the proper fuse.


You can get breakers in different amperages, so I usually carry in my kit:

1 - 1 amp

2 - 3 amp

2 - 5 amp

1 -10 amp

1- 20 amp

If the circuit calls for a 7 amp fuse, I of course use a 5 amp . If it needs a 2.5 amp, I use a 1 amp - always choose the next lowest value if you don't have an exact match.

#220 5 years ago

Cheaper than running through boxes of fuses:

#222 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:


I'm still confused about what makes my fuse blow.

A fuse blows because too much current is flowing through it.

You can have a bad diode, a flaky diode, a shorted coil, a shorted transistor, a short in the wiring, or a shorted driver chip for the transistor.

A lot of reasons.


You will find the problem. But there are different way to approach it.

For instance, let's say you use a piece of wire and ground the tab of the driver transistor, and every time you do the knocker, the fuse blows....

Or lets say every time you start a game, one of the pop bumpers locks on....

Or a diverter grounds out during multiball.....

#227 5 years ago

Breakers are usually Slo-Blo.

Where you using fast-blo fuses?

#229 5 years ago

Let's have some interesting fun.

Put your meter in AMPERAGE mode. ( you might have to move the leads to the AMP terminals, if your meter uses them)

Remove one leg of the breaker from the fuse clip.

One meter lead on the breaker, the other lead on the un-used clip of the fuse holder (so the meter is completing the circuit).

Now, read how many Amps the circuit is drawing....

#231 5 years ago

20ma is too small.

Put it on 5 or 10 amps.

#234 5 years ago

Using the circuit breaker, play some games.

Feel if any of the coils are hot.

If not, then use the 2 or 2,5A fuse.

There is 43v at the coils, right?

#236 5 years ago

Sorry about that.

Meter on DC volts, what voltage are you reading with a lead on both coil lugs?

#248 5 years ago

The problem with a 40 year old piece of commercial equipment, is that you don't know what the 100 other techs that have worked on the game have done to it.

"techs" may have swapped coils, diodes, parts, "stolen" power from other sources in the game, bypassed safety features in the game.....

I've seen where the transformer was incorrectly swapped from another game.

I've seen where someone gathered every broken circuit board they had and put them into a single "project" game for sale.

I've seen where someone sprayed WD40 into every coil, gumming up every moving part on a game.

So, since "we can't see it from here", us internet techs have to be pretty careful in doling out the online advice....better safe than sorry.

1 week later
#251 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

Since yesterday, I lost the GI, both on the playfield and in the backbox. The rest works, including the inserts lights. Everything seems plugged in, no burning on the new connectors. Fuses ok.
Ideas ?

What is the voltage on TP4 of the rectifier board? (remember to put your meter on AC for this measurment)

#253 5 years ago

One lead to the ground trace along the side of the board, the other to TP4, meter on AC

#255 5 years ago

Meter still on AC, do you have voltage on either side of that 20A fuse clip?

#257 5 years ago

Fuse is bad, or fuse clips are bad.

#260 5 years ago

There should be no resistance on the fuse.

Your meter should read it like if you touched the leads to each other.

#266 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

But what I mainly got from the long list of things you advocate to do, is that if that board really gives me trouble, I'll buy a new one.

No shame in buying new.

Save the old one, or give it to your local pin tech.

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