Nine Ball needs all three balls to be loaded for a game to start. FYI...
Mac
(Topic ID: 123214)
Linked Games
Nine Ball
Stern Electronics, 1980
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1 week later
If anyone has a scan of the playfield, it would be appreciated. I really need the center to lower part of the playfield area between the slings up to the wizard. Someone did a poor touchup, and then covered it all with Mylar, so I know I will lose what is left when I remove that Mylar.
Thanks!
If I cannot get a good scan from anyone, then my thinking is to scan my existing board to establish size, and "overlay" corrections based on photos on a Photoshop layer above the base. I should be able to align the new art to what is left of the old so that the alignment is good.
Thoughts?
Thanks Curbfeeler and aKa! No rush on the pictures... I have several other restorations in line ahead of this one.
Mac
2 weeks later
Quoted from aKa:Capacitor question : I didn't notice it at first but the ones I bought in a specialised store (so the guy knew his thing and seemed to understand what I asked for) are marked .47K. I gave the guy the reference Vid gave me (.047uF) but there seems to be a missing 0 on mines, which I suppose is quite a different value. Was I given the wrong ones or am I missing something ?
Usually caps labled .47K means 470,000 PicoFarads. which is is equivalent to .047 uF (MicroFarad)
I think you have the right thing.
Mac
2 weeks later
Quoted from aKa:The impossibility to start the diagnostic mode baffles me. I did it before, and the other buttons on the front are functionnal.
Anyways, there's two coils that are briefly energised during the beeping initialising sequence when I turn on the table. Is it normal or indicative of a problem with these two coils (the big target bank one and the loop drop target one) ? Can it be the cause of the under-playfield fuse blowing ?
Check for a stuck closed switch in the matrix row/columns where the door test switch is... if it does not see the switch close, it's not going into test mode. I had the spinner switch closing on me when I raised the playfield. Also leave the apron off and watch the balls flow down the trough... I had a problem where after a ball or two, the next one would not always roll forward, causing a stuck condition after locking a ball in the left stack area.
As for the fuse blowing, are you sure you are using the right value, and is it SB (slow blow) ?
Just some things to check that are common issues on the old 9-Ball... -Mac
Quoted from aKa:.
...Anyways, there's two coils that are briefly energised during the beeping initialising sequence when I turn on the table. Is it normal or indicative of a problem with these two coils (the big target bank one and the loop drop target one) ? Can it be the cause of the under-playfield fuse blowing ?
On the 3rd beep of the last 5 sequence the loop drop solenoid fires, and then on the last beep I hear another energize, but not sure which one. The drop targets, big target bank reset, does NOT reset during the initialization... that happens after starting a game, so you may have a short between two drivers.
Get the test mode working and it should be easy to confirm that.
Quoted from aKa:Still can't get into test mode. There doesn't seem to be any stuck switch on the door (I assume you mean the ones that are activated when you put a coin).
As for the playfield, I keep it in it's vertical service position because it's a pain in the ass to go back and forth between this position and the playing one. I repainted the cabinet interior sides and it's a manoeuvre that can scratch the paint. So no balls in the game, I just keep the switches closed with my hand to start a game. It works for this so it should work for the test mode (not sure it needs balls anyways).
So, still stuck.
It seems the test switch is not in the matrix. It has a dedicated line back to the MPU board. Check the switch its self. Those go bad a lot. Here is the circuit diagram for the test circuit:
9-ball-test.JPGQuoted from aKa:Oh, and that thing literally fell of the rectifier board when I touched it.
That thing.jpg
I should probably worry about it and replace it. What is it by the way (some kind of capacitor i would guess) ?
That is not a capacitor... it's a varistor. It is used to clamp voltage spikes above the rated value, 250 volts in your case. Replace it.... they are cheap.
Mac
Quoted from aKa:Does it need to have exactly the same specifications ?
Only if you want it to work as designed
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