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(Topic ID: 123214)

Restoring a Nine Ball

By aKa

5 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 293 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Classic_Stern
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders


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There have been 43 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Right flipper assembly.jpg
Left flipper assembly.jpg
Flipper assemblies placement.jpg
Right slingshot switches.jpg
Left slingshot switches.jpg
Flippers assemblies wiring.jpg

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#15 5 years ago

That's for credits. Added for home use. When you push that "added" button do you get credits? If not can you drop a coin through to get credits or manually move the wire that a coin would fall over to get credits?

#17 5 years ago

You can't add more once you hit 40 but it should start a game and go to 39. The one on the left is the "start button" and should start a game.

#18 5 years ago

Friend of mine had an issue recently where the wire at the inside hinge of the coin door broke off, and no buttons in the door were working. Can't start a game, can't add credits. If pressing the start button does nothing then maybe shoot a picture of inside the coin door.

#23 5 years ago

Orgy? Hmm. Okay the button the left is not stock. That was added to give credits without coins. The white one "should" start a game. I don't think there is a reason to flush credits. If you are saying you can't start a game using the white button, maybe check and see if one of the slam/tilt switches is closed. I see you don't have legs on there, maybe the tilt plumb or ball tilt are activated or even the slam tilt in the door???

#25 5 years ago

What's the history on this thing? Was it working when you bought it or was it dead when you bought it? Is it possible you didn't get a connector plugged into the boards when you brought it home and put the head back on?

Can you take a pic inside the head behind the glass?

#27 5 years ago

My Galaxy starts without balls, so I am assuming this will as well, but it would be good to see if you can get into the test modes. If not my guess is the wiring harness for the coin door isn't connected to the MPU.

#30 5 years ago

Well, sorry, there's just no other way. You're going to have to fly me out to take a look

Seriously, though, thanks for the pics. In Backbox2 can you lift up the two gray ribbon cables and show that connector? Just want to make sure it's plugged in and looking good.

Also can you snap a pic of the coin door open? Want to look for anything oddball about the wiring.

So did you try to press the test switches while it's in attract mode to see what happens?

#33 5 years ago

Okay, a few things to check. That credits switch that they "added" make sure the two black wires aren't accidentally touching all the time. Same with the blades. That switch should be open until you press it. Can't tell in the pic, but the soldered ends look very close together.

Next, the tilt plumb looks like it's "made" to me. Wrap a paper towel or something so it can't touch the sides for now, just in case (or just remove the plumb bob). the Rolling ball tilt looks fine, but the slam switch, I can't recall if that should be normally open or normally closed. Try starting a game both ways.

Is there a slam switch in the door? Try the same, both ways. A slam switch under the playfield? Etc. Make sure balls are in when you try these, but a game should start up...

Were you able to try the test/diagnostics button yet to see if there's any luck with that?

Sorry I don't have the schematics in front of me to see if the tilts are NO or NC.

#44 5 years ago

There was some confusion earlier. He could not get to test mode b/c the coir door connector in the head wasnt connected. He can start a game now and has other less severe issues here and there.

Op, that metal braided cable from the playfield and cabinet and head all need to meet and be screwed tight in the bottom of the inside of the head. This grounds the three to each other -- cab,head,playfield.

You are correct those machine screws should be replaced in the boards but for the time being one screw is doing the job.

#45 5 years ago

Oh also op, next time you buy one better to wait on tearing down the playfild until you verify everything electronic works 100%. Saves many hours of diagnosics later if there is an issue.

#53 5 years ago

1.25 Amp Slo Blow. I'd recommend you go to the manual and order 5 of every value in the game.

Edit: Shipping is more than fuses, so get all you need in 1 purchase.

1 week later
#61 5 years ago

What I normally do when I can't scan and must use photos is I put a few coins on the playfield on the outside of the art I'm trying to photograph and also a steel ruler. Then when I'm in photoshop later I can adjust the image for any skew or warp using the coins and ruler as a guide. A scan is better, of course.

#63 5 years ago

Yes, that will work for sure.

Also I know it's something new to learn, but most people who do restoration to get very professional results scan the playfield and trace the artwork in a program like Inkscape to make it vector art. When doing this I also find the idea above about the coins and steel rule to be helpful so you can get scale 100% accurate so you don't end up printing it the wrong size.

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