Dallas, TX
Nineball must be working all the way with classic stern parts. Any small perturbation to that can cause issues that may deter from the game. It deserves all the time you can put into it. GREAT GAME. One of the best.
(Topic ID: 123214)
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Nine Ball
Stern Electronics, 1980
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3 weeks later
Quoted from aKa:Oh boy ... Well I threw the original away a few weeks ago, so there's no chance to get that one back. As far as I can tell, no retailer is carrying it.
You say 1/4 inch, but I need at least 3/4 additional inch. I could remove the small spring in front of the beehive, but the knob would bang against it.
I feel a bit bad about it. It was stupid of me to not match the two rods ...
1st lesson in restoring a classic stern. Never ever throw away any of the used parts until the restoration is complete. You just cannot get original parts that are perfect.
3 weeks later
Quoted from vid1900:Those pins were used to align the flippers.
You want a straight line down the inlane wire guide and transfer the ball to the flipper with the minimum of "hop".
Chances are the correct alignment with the pins is with the rubber on (although this has been known to vary).
Don't even worry about the pins, just use a small straightedge, and make sure the flipper is at the SAME angle as the inlane wire guide.nine-ball-flipper-pins.jpg
The pins are used to support the ball when it hits the classic stern flipper mech and bat. It makes it so it does not "push" back on the metal stop piece and jam the flipper. Now I raise them up when I do a rebuild so it does not matter but that was what the pin was for.
Quoted from aKa:Oh, so I should make new one and put them on permanently ? I installed brand new flipper assemblies, but they are classic stern reproduction (from Pinball Life), so they should require the same kind of support.
Yes, But add 2 washers on the stop plate for the link. That will prevent the link from rising above it and jaming. Don't have a picture but will show you later. You can see where the link stops the tolerance is really low. Alittle more downward movement and it jams above the metal. Also the pins help with better action.
Quoted from aKa:Yeah, I'll try that. Since I was making a neat graphical explanation while you were posting, I'll post it anyways to make sure anyone interested can understand.
Side rails pressure.jpg
Yea, Nineball has a problem with the metal wire in the wrong spot. The hole where it was drilled. Even on my NOS field this was a problem. You can fill and fix but it is tough because of the right location is right next to the size of the hole. Bend it forward but I would not limit range. All Nineball's I have seen which is probably 15 have this same problem.
2 months later
Quoted from aKa:I have fixed the "extra" ball issue.
The switch test allowed me to see that the shooter lane switch did not register when I plunged the ball as soon as it is fed into the lane, as I enjoy rapidly shooting the ball just as it arrives in the shooter lane. The machine then give another ball a few seconds later, thinking something prevented the ball to reach the shooter lane.
It was tricky to see the issue since the switch registers if the ball sits just half a second in the lane. I tightened the gap of the switch to be more reactive, but just letting the ball sit in the lane for an instant before plunging will do the trick no matter what.
Thanks Superchicken for your valuable input. Now, if anybody has any idea about the gamebraking problem I detailed in post #269, I'll be glad to hear it, because I assuredly don't know what to do ...
Outside of grinding the plunger you also have to shim inside the target bank so the targets sit flush with the field when down or will cause the ball to wear the drop target channel or the ball gets stuck on the channel.
Quoted from Superchicken:The Pinball Resource has the whole target (about 1/4 of the way down the page):
http://www.pbresource.com/special.html
stn-a382-1.jpg
I may end up making an order from Bay Area Amusement because they're the only one to have the loop bullseye drop target that is missing from my machine, and those damn small rivets I can't seem to find anywhere.. They also sell various leds :
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=LBL
I think those are too short. Measure up.
Quoted from aKa:My parents bought for my birthday 3 month ago a reproduction backglass for my Nine Ball. While the reproduction is rather good, it doesn't have the same colors (darker blue, whites that appear more grey and plain) and in general doesn't fit as well as the original on the machine.
My original backglass lost some paint, especially in the yellows, hence the reason why I wanted a reproduction, but I'm thinking of putting it back, with less lights on the back, in particular where the paint is gone. I'd also like to put lights that produce less heat, to avoid furthering the paint loss (the backglass is not flaking, apart from what is already gone, but I believe heat would not do good).
I know I can put 47 type bulbs instead of the 44, but can I also put leds ? From what I understand, they flicker unless some modification is done to the lamp driver on some card, but is it also the case for the lamps in the backbox ? I'd rather keep it simple.
That backglass can be fixed easily. You need to stop the flaking using Triple thick though. I would not use too many LED's. unless they are the more diffused ones. You an use glass paint to fix the yellow.
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