(Topic ID: 60603)

Restore Time: Taxi

By Richthofen

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 400 posts
  • 84 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by PM_Jeremy
  • Topic is favorited by 38 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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#28 10 years ago

If you want a shiny new Taxi - tackle that cabinet - bondo is your friend. This restore may seem scary at first, but do a few and you will get the hang of it. You are going to have to pull those connectors to remove the pf. Check out my garage right now...MB, TAF, FH, and WH20 x 2 cabs in progress.

Scott

#29 10 years ago

oops forgot the pic

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#31 10 years ago

Be very careful - I've tried other vendors of "cheap" cabinets and they did not work out. I have not tried Let's Play Pinball, no experience with them. Just make sure it will work out. Taxi has a pf swivel and you want all the holes in the right place.

#36 10 years ago

Go - go - go! yank that stuff out!

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#41 10 years ago

put old bulbs in the sockets and shoot it with white primer. Good to go!

#43 10 years ago

That's the way I do most of mine that need a repaint - it keeps the paint out of the sockets.

#47 10 years ago

Like I said white primer will get you these results with bulbs in the sockets. I did these about 2 weeks ago...

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4 weeks later
#69 10 years ago

Christopher H. uses new cabinets since he doesn't pay for them and guess what - they are easier to use than fixing the old one. The rest of us have to live on a budget and bondo/filler will do fine.

Scott

3 weeks later
#82 10 years ago

PBL is the best place for a new lockdown bar/receiver. the wpc receiver will work.

#88 10 years ago

I'm pretty sure this is the guy I tried out a cab to see if it would work. Here is a pick with one edge flush - check out the other side...

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#94 10 years ago

I just use needlenose pliers to grip one side of the nut and start turning it until I can finish it by hand.

Painting season is done here since I paint in the garage. Hopefully finishing some stencil work on Knock Out this week before it drops below 60 again.

#101 10 years ago

To get the side rails off, you need a putty knife. I never use heat - just put the putty knife against the cab and slide it in as far as it will go starting on one end. You can wiggle it by hand, or if you like use a hammer to get it through the tape. Then move a few inches down the rail and repeat until you reach the end.

#105 10 years ago

Stick to it guys - the reward is when you play it the first time (after the bugs are out). Then the next one will be easier and you will do a better job.

3 weeks later
#112 10 years ago

It's probably bent to accomodate that screw. It should be a threaded post - not a screw. That was rigged.

1 week later
#133 10 years ago

best way is to use a small screwdriver to back them out just a bit, then put a rag on the cab and grab them with a claw hammer.

#144 10 years ago

Just wait until you find out you have to drill the new pf to get them to fit. Then you will be well on your way!

1 week later
#153 10 years ago

I agree - toss that sucker in the tumbler. Also a good thing to have is a cheap harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner - well worth the bucks.

1 week later
#156 10 years ago

Upgrade those flippers - get rid of the crappy springs...

Do not buy all new coils you can buy new labels from planetary pinball.

#161 10 years ago

I put entire harnesses in the dishwasher (without mechs) - just make sure you dry it pretty good afterward.

#163 10 years ago

I usually just leave them on. But make sure you dry it (compressor or hair dryer) soon after washing to prevent any corrosion.

#165 10 years ago

I have to say - if you are going as far as you are on this restore - do it right....Clean everything, polish/replace/plate metal parts as required, rebuild flippers/pops, replace light sockets if needed, etc.

1 week later
#173 10 years ago

replace the pop nails - pbl sells them cheap. Just tap lightly at first to thread them in.

#191 10 years ago

I bought a BSD for $900 and now have over $3K in it - it happens - if you love the game it doesn't matter.

1 month later
#207 10 years ago

put some tape on the drill bit to mark how far to drill - it takes the guessing out of it as long as you don't push down and move the tape

5 months later
#283 9 years ago

I use warm white retro on mine

1 week later
#294 9 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

Yeah I am going LED. Nothing crazy like colored lights in the GI or anything. Retro Natural Whites in the GI. Not sure what I will do with the insert lamps. Honestly incandescents run too hot and I hate changing bulbs, LEDs solve those problems They definitely change the look of the game but not enough that it isn't the same game.

I've been using comet 50/50 with frosted dome for inserts and the flex for ones that don't point directly at a lens. Also, those ball guides should be "regrained" by sanding with sand paper going in the direction of the metal grain. The trough guides can really get bad and marco carries most if not all.

#301 9 years ago

All part of the learning process. Key advise is always take your time. You did right by drilling it, the rubber hammer probably angled it when you hit it. I just use a very small claw hammer and lightly tap them until they start then go harder to get them to the proper level.

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