(Topic ID: 60603)

Restore Time: Taxi


By Richthofen

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 400 posts
  • 84 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by cad-kid
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

Topic Gallery

There have been 121 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

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There are 400 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 8.
#351 4 years ago

I'm with mof, what exactly is wrong? If it's just the artwork - screw it!!!

#352 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Hold up, hold up -- what are you sure is wrong?
Do you by chance mean where the yellow pole in the artwork doesn't line up right with the post?
-mof

Yeah. The shot is way narrower on the right hand side because the post isn't in the white circle as I think its supposed to be. Hence the ramp guide is messed up too, and the shot is about a 1/4 inch narrower on the right

#353 4 years ago

It's just the artwork -- every Taxi I've ever seen is like this.

I'll take a pic of mine later and show you mine.

My limited understanding about the CPR process, is that anything DRILLED is always going to be correct, anything DIMPLED can be off or hidden (which is a separate stage), and so it's very likely that you did everything correct.

Perhaps we can get a few people's pictures of the same area to help you gain some confidence here.

-mof

#354 4 years ago

Hope this helps. Mine is a factory with pulled mylar, and VG++ condition. And I re-populated my top-side from the ground up with few-to-no pictures to guide me.

-mof
201411-TX-right-ramp.jpg

#355 4 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

Ugh. This restore is killing me. Putting the new ramp guides in, and noticed I really effed up on the post by the right ramp/lock entrance. I followed the hole in the playfield but it must have been placed wrong by CPR on the playfield. I am going to have to remove the post, drill a new hole, and now there will be a hole under the guide and possibly visible on the playfield. *sigh*. I really feel like I can't get anything right sometimes.

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Yup the original was this way. See scan attached from my dad's machine.

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#356 4 years ago

From what I can see you just need to remove your right ball guide, and bend it it 1/16" closer to the post, and twist it 2-4' to get it flush with the post. Re-install.

-mof

#357 4 years ago

You guys are just... cool
If I ever attempt a restore, I hope you'll be there for me. Great reading, and this Taxi looks fantastic!

#358 4 years ago

yep, you just have to bend the guides. joe

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#359 4 years ago

Ok. Thanks for all the feedback everyone. I definitely see that CPR had it right based on everyone's playfield pics. I think the dimple for the right-hand-ramp-guide was a bit off, causing the guide to stick out. I can pull the guide out and drill a new hole for the screw, which should cause the guide to be 'in' more and make the shot clearance wider.

Thanks again, great to have the minds of so many pinheads available to save me from myself!

#360 4 years ago

Here Ed , a little affirmation for you.

Taxi 175.jpg Taxi 176.jpg
#361 4 years ago

Nate,
I'd remove all that mylar carefully and clean.
Your ball guide up by Gorby looks just like mine, and mine works fine.
The posts you noticed under that right plastic are exactly like mine too. When I first saw that, I was tempted to swap at least one of those out, but eventually left them alone. The one with the unused screw hole acts as a support for the plastic above it, as far as I can tell.

Dwayne

#362 4 years ago

Nice excuse for a break from putting Black Knight back together.

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#363 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

I'm thinking about cutting out the mylar around the inserts so I can clean the crud out -

The airport ride insert looks like it might even be wood filler??

Crazy.

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

Also, look at the wire ball guide photo, is this supposed to sit that far down on the pf??

Looks low. Probably sticking through the back of the playfield.

If it won't stay up, use a drop of white glue in each hole.

#364 4 years ago

Thanks Dwane and Vid1900 for the input. Will leave the posts alone, yeah, I think the post with the screw hole is supporting the plastic.

I did pull up the wire guide a bit - seems pretty tight so I'll keep an eye on it for slippage.

I'm *really* tempted to remove the mylar but haven't done it before and am not sure if I want to tackle it at this point. I'm not saavy enough to spray the pf with lacquer so would a few coats of wax be enough to protect the unmylard pf??

We'll see what happens once I cut around the inserts and deal with that, I might decide to take the plunge and remove it all - does using crazy glue to re-coat the inserts once they are re-seated sound like a good idea???

-Nate

I still can't believe someone slapped the mylar down ON TOP of all that crud?!?!

#365 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

does using crazy glue to re-coat the inserts once they are re-seated sound like a good idea???

No.

#366 4 years ago

More screw-ups, but more progress. Flippers are all set thanks to good debugging from Pinside user Linoleum (turns out one of the coils had a bad diode). Ready for ramps soon.

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#367 4 years ago

Well, there were 4 problems with the flippers...
1) The left flipper EOS swich wasn't opening enough to stop high voltage flow so the fuse would blow after about 4 seconds.
2) The right flipper's power/ground lines were on the wrong terminations
3) The right flipper's eos wires were on the wrong coil terminations
4) One of the right flipper's diodes was bad

After ~8 fuses the flippers were fixed

#368 4 years ago

fuse breaker.jpg
#369 4 years ago

Well, I know what I'm making a set of this weekend //O.o\\

#370 4 years ago
Quoted from Linolium:

Well, there were 4 problems with the flippers...
1) The left flipper EOS swich wasn't opening enough to stop high voltage flow so the fuse would blow after about 4 seconds.
2) The right flipper's power/ground lines were on the wrong terminations
3) The right flipper's eos wires were on the wrong coil terminations
4) One of the right flipper's diodes was bad
After ~8 fuses the flippers were fixed

Is that all you did

#371 4 years ago

On its way. Still have a bunch of adjustments, some plastics to add, and I have to screw down the ramp entrance flaps. Also the spring steel under the spinout ramp is too stiff; and the ball stays trapped in the spinout ramp instead of falling down.

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#372 4 years ago

Absolutely gorgeous.

#373 4 years ago

WOOOOOOOOW. That is one pretty machine.

#374 4 years ago

Very nice. Good job on this.

#375 4 years ago

Looks amazing. Great work.

#376 4 years ago

wow! Great job. I think I'll start a Taxi Restore thread also, for some moral support and help!!! I picked at the mylar last night and it's actually pulling off cleanly just from my pulling it! Soo that should be easier than I'm thinking. Stay tuned!!

#377 4 years ago

Richthofen did you end up putting in new ramps or are those the ones that came on your game. Looks beautiful by the way. I've got a Taxi with all new parts (cpr playfield, ramps, spinout, plastics, and backglass) waiting for a restore but no time. I hope mine comes out that good if I can ever find the time and don't break down and sell it.

#378 4 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

On its way. Still have a bunch of adjustments, some plastics to add, and I have to screw down the ramp entrance flaps. Also the spring steel under the spinout ramp is too stiff; and the ball stays trapped in the spinout ramp instead of falling down.

Mine did the same thing until I bent it more -- hard to reach while in the game...
-mof

#379 4 years ago
Quoted from Kcpinballfan:

Richthofen did you end up putting in new ramps or are those the ones that came on your game. Looks beautiful by the way. I've got a Taxi with all new parts (cpr playfield, ramps, spinout, plastics, and backglass) waiting for a restore but no time. I hope mine comes out that good if I can ever find the time and don't break down and sell it.

I used new ramps. so the right hand ramp decals looked great and the left hand ramp decals looked like crap :-/ I also ordered the small blue triangle decal from Curly's Shop Of Games. The ramps required a bit of finesse to fit right; I think the new ones were pretty stiff and the old ones had sort of formed into the correct position after being screwed down all that time. I'm still having the issue where the left ramp returns the ball too fast to the left inlane, so fast it spins out of the inlane into the outlane about 25% of the time.

#380 4 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

I used new ramps. so the right hand ramp decals looked great and the left hand ramp decals looked like crap :-/ I also ordered the small blue triangle decal from Curly's Shop Of Games. The ramps required a bit of finesse to fit right; I think the new ones were pretty stiff and the old ones had sort of formed into the correct position after being screwed down all that time. I'm still having the issue where the left ramp returns the ball too fast to the left inlane, so fast it spins out of the inlane into the outlane about 25% of the time.

Be sure and "flare" your wire forms out (1/8"+ each lower arm) to help feed the ball at top speed to the inlanes. (I copied my Diner habitrail wireform exit style.)
-mof

#381 4 years ago

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I still have the following adjustments/issues to work out:

1.) Solve left-ramp exit problem (ball exits with too much spin from left ramp and goes out the outlane)
2.) Solve Spinout ramp landing cup spring
3.) Solve launch ramp exit problem (wire form to spinout ramp exit isn't smooth so not all plunges make it to the cup)
4.) Fix Lockdown bar 'floatiness'. I installed a new lockdown bar and lockdown bar receiver. The fit isn't tight. I think this is because the receiver is sitting too high in the cabinet and should be lowered. That will also affect playfield level-ness
5.) Level the playfield
6.) Adjust the backglass lock so it locks the backglass in place
7.) Fix the flashers intermittently triggered by coils

Nice to haves:
Order the accessory stickers for the cabinet (fuse sticker, tilt sticker, etc)

#382 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Be sure and "flare" your wire forms out (1/8"+ each lower arm) to help feed the ball at top speed to the inlanes. (I copied my Diner habitrail wireform exit style.)
-mof

Sorry, I'm not sure I know what you mean. Do you mean bend the wireforms out so the exit is wider? Seems counterintuitive?

#383 4 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

4.) Fix Lockdown bar 'floatiness'. I installed a new lockdown bar and lockdown bar receiver. The fit isn't tight. I think this is because the receiver is sitting too high in the cabinet and should be lowered. That will also affect playfield level-ness

Did you adjust the brass screws yet, as opposed to moving the receiver?

#384 4 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

Did you adjust the brass screws yet, as opposed to moving the receiver?

Huh. I always wondered what those were for. I've never had to adjust them but I suppose it is worth a shot!

#385 4 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

Sorry, I'm not sure I know what you mean. Do you mean bend the wireforms out so the exit is wider? Seems counterintuitive?

Yes. Only I misspoke. Only flare the outside bar. 1/8" max.
-mof

I positioned my lens over each post to snap these.

201411-TX-flare1.jpg201411-TX-flare2.jpg

#386 4 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

Huh. I always wondered what those were for. I've never had to adjust them but I suppose it is worth a shot!

I buy new ones for $0.25 each or w/e from various vendors.
-mof

1 week later
#387 4 years ago

It's official. I have the most expensive Taxi in the world, most likely. I was tallying the total cost of the restore, and here's what I came up with...

drum roll...

Don't tell my wife...

$4,776.86

Welp. I didn't start out trying to spend that much. But the numbers don't lie. I've managed to track every expense. For those really interested in the nitty gritty of a restore, this might be valuable info. For those wanting to laugh that I have $5K into a game that won't fetch over $2.5K, well, have a good one Really though, i bought a lot of new parts that I could have attempted to salvage from the original parts (lockdown bar, receiver, side rails, etc). Live and learn. Game isn't going anywhere anytime soon so I don't mind really. I mean, I mind a little.

pinside.png
#388 4 years ago

For those keeping score, remaining adjustments:

Apply Triangle Decal to left ramp
Fix Carry Passengers Switch
Fix backglass lock
Adjust head latch for tighter fit
Fix interlock switch (doesn't register coin door being open)
Bottom pop bumper coil needs tightening
Adjust pop bumper dish springs
Fix Flashers firing by flippers
Fix Loose Head GI wire
Fix spring under spinout ramp
Fix launch / shooter adjustments
Move right ramp guide inwards
Fix catapult speed
Fix ball being kicked back into the shooter lane after drain
Adjust right ramp ball guide
Install Express Lane #1 and #2 Plastics
Install Spinout cover plastic
Level Game

#389 4 years ago

Don't forget to factor in the learning experience. You have tackle something a lot of people have never done or even thought of attempting to do.

#390 4 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

Don't tell my wife..

This is why I do not keep exact records.

#391 4 years ago

If it's any comfort, I'm right there with you, and I haven't even started my restore...
$1900.00 for my game
$499.00 for NAVL from Utah
new ramps, new playfield, NOS CPU board, and the list goes on......

#392 4 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

It's official. I have the most expensive Taxi in the world, most likely. I was tallying the total cost of the restore, and here's what I came up with...
drum roll...
Don't tell my wife...
$4,776.86
Welp. I didn't start out trying to spend that much. But the numbers don't lie. I've managed to track every expense. For those really interested in the nitty gritty of a restore, this might be valuable info. For those wanting to laugh that I have $5K into a game that won't fetch over $2.5K, well, have a good one Really though, i bought a lot of new parts that I could have attempted to salvage from the original parts (lockdown bar, receiver, side rails, etc). Live and learn. Game isn't going anywhere anytime soon so I don't mind really. I mean, I mind a little.

pinside.png 21 KB

This is why i dont even keep track, just spend spend spend, lol.

1 week later
#393 4 years ago

Question about the interlock/coin door switch. On System 11s does this switch turn off the high power? From what I've been reading that feature didn't come into play until WPC. If that's the case, what does the coin door switch do, and how do I test it? I replaced one but I am not sure how to tell if its working.

#394 4 years ago

Should be a memory protect switch blocking access to the RAM when the door is closed...

#395 4 years ago
Quoted from HighSpeed1:

Should be a memory protect switch blocking access to the RAM when the door is closed...

Cool. Does this switch present in the switch test? Basically I replaced the old switch (was really ruined by a beer spill) with a new switch. Old one had two connectors, new one has three (my guess is the three-connector switch gives you In, Normally Open and Normally Closed while the old switch had just In and NC or NO). Since I don't know which one to hook it to, I need to test to make sure the switch is working.

- Ed

#396 4 years ago

No it shouldn't register in a switch edge test..

2 weeks later
#397 4 years ago

Ok. slowly debugging remaining issues. My catapult coil just seems massively overpowered, yielding backspin on the ball and resulting in left outlane drains after catapult launches. I tried adjusting the wireform, etc. When I nail the ramp with the flippers it is totally fine.

Also I am rarely getting a ball ejected into the shooter lane after drain. appears the trough kicker is just too powerful? Or should I shim the rail that the balls sit on in the trough to sit lower?

#398 4 years ago

You used the same catapult coil, right? Don't forget the new ramps you bought are thicker and sturdier and absorb less of the balls' motion, and impact. The original ramps being thinner would have caused the motion and impact to be more absorbed by the ramp it self slowing the ball down some. This might be some of your increased speed.

#399 4 years ago

I saw right outlane rejects before I restored the game. It's definitely the right coil per the manual,
23-800. I wonder if I should try a stiffer spring inside the mech.

3 months later
#400 4 years ago

Amazing thread! I think the coolest part is seeing your new born son early on then seeing him several months later sitting on the machine while you play - neat!

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