Taxi
Williams, 1988I've got a large vibratory tumbler, but thanks Jim! If you can toss switch assemblies, etc into the tumbler well that's what I want to hear! I've got the crushed walnut medium but should I be adding any polish or other stuff to the mix as well?
Some flitz works nice. Brasso would also work or even novus 2 but not sure if it works nearly as well.
I agree - toss that sucker in the tumbler. Also a good thing to have is a cheap harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner - well worth the bucks.
Working on the other mechs. Not sure if I should be buying all new coils or not. If I re-use the coil, what's the best way around this? Should I clip the wires or go through the trouble of desoldering them?
Once I get the coils, how do I clean them? Can I just toss them in the ultrasonic cleaner? I assume that would ruin the coil wrappers?
Upgrade those flippers - get rid of the crappy springs...
Do not buy all new coils you can buy new labels from planetary pinball.
I print my own coil wrappers and yes you can toss them in the ultrasonic. Unless a could sleeve is impossible to remove the coil is fine and its pointless to replace.
-Jim
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Unless a could sleeve is impossible to remove the coil is fine and its pointless to replace.
I've had some success in drilling out the sticking sleeve and the coil inner diameter a bit. Works a lot of the time, to save the coil.
Robert
Quoted from WeirPinball:Upgrade those flippers - get rid of the crappy springs...
Do not buy all new coils you can buy new labels from planetary pinball.
+1 on this. Get rid of compression spring. You already have the bracket for the return spring.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9376
Here is the spring you need.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-364
I have done this to all of my machines. HUGE difference.
OK OK! I will get the return springs 
OK, this is more of a general question. As the mechs come off, its getting closer to time to pull sockets, switches, and the GI wires.
My plan was to leave the old GI on the old playfield, and on my new one, trace the path of the wires with a pencil and staple in new GI and new GI sockets.
Then I'd put the mechs back and put the wiring and switches back last. Should I be un-soldering all switches and insert lighting? Or leave them and clean the harness by hand?
IMG_0419.JPGI put entire harnesses in the dishwasher (without mechs) - just make sure you dry it pretty good afterward.
Quoted from WeirPinball:I put entire harnesses in the dishwasher (without mechs) - just make sure you dry it pretty good afterward.
Without mechs. But what about lamp sockets and microswitches?
I usually just leave them on. But make sure you dry it (compressor or hair dryer) soon after washing to prevent any corrosion.
Quoted from Richthofen:As the mechs come off, its getting closer to time to pull sockets, switches, and the GI wires.
To me removing and cleaning the wire harness, while doable, is a lot of work with the chance to screw something up that will take hours to troubleshoot...while yielding little real value.
I blow the harness/wires off with compressed air and wipe it with a damp towel/rag and call it good.
If I am going to remove the mechanisms, which isn't often, I do them 1 at a time and then replace and go on to the next.
Maybe I'm lazy, but I don't have hours and hours to spend.
Good luck with whatever you do.
Robert
I have to say - if you are going as far as you are on this restore - do it right....Clean everything, polish/replace/plate metal parts as required, rebuild flippers/pops, replace light sockets if needed, etc.
Quoted from MrSanRamon:To me removing and cleaning the wire harness, while doable, is a lot of work with the chance to screw something up that will take hours to troubleshoot...while yielding little real value.
I blow the harness/wires off with compressed air and wipe it with a damp towel/rag and call it good.
If I am going to remove the mechanisms, which isn't often, I do them 1 at a time and then replace and go on to the next.
Maybe I'm lazy, but I don't have hours and hours to spend.
Good luck with whatever you do.
Robert
It's a playfield swap so the harness has to come off
Quoted from WeirPinball:I have to say - if you are going as far as you are on this restore - do it right....Clean everything, polish/replace/plate metal parts as required, rebuild flippers/pops, replace light sockets if needed, etc.
Yeah going to clean everything I can, and replace a lot. Flipper Fidelity speakers, LED displays, etc.
I've not put my harnesses in the dishwasher. However, I have snipped off the small zip ties, then used Blech White, soaked on a rag, and hand wiped/pulled the cluster of wires. It's amazing the yellow/dirt that comes off. Plus, putting the brand new white zip ties on makes the wires look even better.
Jeez, finally, harness off. Good luck to me trying to get it back on!
There's still the stapled GI, I was hoping to order new sockets and wire for the new playfield. Also there's a few posts that are stuck to the playfield because they just spin. I think they're locktite'd. Even heat hasn't freed them from the t-nuts underneath. I think the t-nuts are ruined anyways given I tried to use pliers to hold them in place.
What's the deal with the pop bumper nails? As if drilling into a playfield isn't bad enough now I have to think about hammering in some nails into the playfield? Should I reuse or replace? do they thread in then hammer the last step?
IMG_0500-138.JPG
IMG_0499.JPGCheck which kind you have. There are two types. Shark fin hammer in screws and there are some that screw in to the playfield with a reverse thread and the bottom half is threaded for the pop bracket nuts.
BTW I'm working right along side you now. Cab is starting to get prepped tomorrow.
Finally got mostly caught up and this one is for myself and I might finally keep one. Taxi is a great game and I need to keep one of my restores in my lineup finally so I can benefit from my work and enjoy it. We will see what happens when its time for Allentown again tho.....
Quoted from Richthofen:Also there's a few posts that are stuck to the playfield because they just spin. I think they're locktite'd. Even heat hasn't freed them from the t-nuts underneath.
Just snap them and replace the screws and T Nuts. That's what I ended up doing with my Taxi, Diner and Black Knight 2000 machines. The System 11's were notorious for the lock-tite posts. I snapped about 10 of them on Black Knight 2000 when I redid it.
Chris
Thanks Chris. How do I determine the proper screw size? Never bought screws/hardware before. I assume there's a length (does length include the head of the screw?) thread size and gauge or width?
Quoted from Richthofen:Thanks Chris. How do I determine the proper screw size? Never bought screws/hardware before. I assume there's a length (does length include the head of the screw?) thread size and gauge or width?
The ones on my games were 6/32 thread machine screws. I bought 2 1/2 inch if I recall correctly, secured them underneath with washers and nylon lock nuts, then cut the excess length with a pair of side cutters (or lineman pliers). Worked like a champ, and I bought the screws in bulk from Lowes.
Chris
Quoted from Richthofen:Thanks Chris. How do I determine the proper screw size? Never bought screws/hardware before. I assume there's a length (does length include the head of the screw?) thread size and gauge or width?
Purchase them from Marco. Go on their site, find your game, and most posts will be there.
OK, just a few more questions. Tonight is the night I put in a BIG parts order.
Is this the proper flipper button? I can't find a reference in the manual.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16883-4
Also, does that come with the red 'nut' that needs to go on the inside?
Second, Any recommendations on a staple gun and staple sizes (for GI staples)? I don't have a shop so nothing air powered. Electric, battery, or manual would be great.
Third, I assume this is an acceptable lamp socket for the flush GI lamps?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5000-00
There's this, but I think that's a lower socket? help/advice appreciated!
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/E-120-176
Use this flipper button
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5026-32
Go with the first lamp socket you pointed out.
-Jim
Order placed. It was a lot more money than I expected, but they finally had standard width lockdown bars in stock, and my game had a beer spill, so ...
The positive thing is that I only paid $500 for the game so even if I blow $500 on parts, $700 on the playfield, and $500 for cabinet repair, I'm not into it toooooo deep ($2300 I guess). But I'm not going to sell it so who cares 
$2300 for cherry Taxi is a win. Wait until you tweak the habitrails to get the balls to exit at full speed...
-mof
$2300 for a fully restored Taxi is not too bad. The HS I am doing will be close to that, not even sure where the SI is now, way more that its actual worth.
You can't beat the satisfaction of taking something sub par and making it great. Plus it's a wonderful learning experience.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:$2300 for a fully restored Taxi is not too bad. The HS I am doing will be close to that, not even sure where the SI is now, way more that its actual worth.
You can't beat the satisfaction of taking something sub par and making it great. Plus it's a wonderful learning experience.
Well said, you are unlocking a LOT of achievements at once re-doing an entire game like this. You've inspired me to create and achievement unlocked thread.
-mof
2300 into an A system11 game isn't a big deal at all. Trust me your not into for more than its worth
-Jim
I bought a BSD for $900 and now have over $3K in it - it happens - if you love the game it doesn't matter.
Ok, another question from the n00b. What on the playfield do I have to pre-drill? I assume the small screws holding the mechs on can just self-thread into the playfield. But do I have to pre-drill post holes? Or just hammer in the t-nuts on the bottom then place the posts in?
Also the pop bumper nails, mine are threaded at the bottom and towards the head have two 'wings'. So twist gently until the fins, then hammer in at the end?
Also, staple gun suggestions?!
On things that are just dimpled I would pre drill to be safe and not split the wood or snap a screw/post.
Pop bumper screw/nails. You have the "shark fin" type. Just hammer them in the holes. Carefully.
-Jim
Sorry it's been a while since I've updated. I am still SLOWLY working on this. I've been super busy with another project, namely the birth of my son! I'm a new dad and while we plan to have only a small family, I'm already feeling proud and overwhelmed and everything else.
All mechs except the drop targets are completely rebuilt, been doing one at a time in the tumbler between baby duties (pun intended). See some before/after of the catapult. Metal parts tumbled, new spring, coil sleeve, coil arm 'bump', all parts cleaned, new coil wrapper, etc etc.
Also, my pride/joy/lack of sleep, Maxwell!
IMG_0324.JPG
IMG_0582.JPG
IMG_0578.JPGCongrats on the new baby!
I had 3 of them; 26 (twins) and 28 years ago. Cherish the young age... they grow up so quickly.
Quoted from erichill:Steve Young sells the side rail nails too.
http://www.pbresource.com/siderails.html
He does ? All I see are WPC side rails.
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Meriden, CT
Sana'a
