Anyone know the paint color(yellow) code for Taxi? I need to repair some of my cabinet on mine. I am struggling to find a paint code that isn't expired. Someone had one on here last year but when I went to Homedepot they said the code was old and they couldn't make it anymore.

Anyone know the paint color(yellow) code for Taxi? I need to repair some of my cabinet on mine. I am struggling to find a paint code that isn't expired. Someone had one on here last year but when I went to Homedepot they said the code was old and they couldn't make it anymore.

The connectors isn't what should be giving you fear. It's which screw/bolt goes to which hole. Hopefully you took pictures of the hardware coming out so you know which part goes where.

From what I understand the head was painted separately from the body so there could be a different shade on the head vs the body
--
Jeremy Agema
Central WI

Piece of cake! Looks like progress!

You'll get it no problem. Ever have any issues get it touch with me.

Nice meeting you again friday. Sorry we never caught back up later.

-Jim

That is true for mine.
-mof

Pick up a dental pick from the drug store or get a set of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

Mine as well. Not a very close match between the head and lower cabinet.

great thread. plenty of us with 'complete' taxi machines so if you need a "which way around does this bit go" answer just post it.

Have you done the numbers? If you sand down your current cabinet, and head, then fill the missing wood areas with bondo, or proper wood filler, then sand smooth, you could get the full decal set on ebay for $262.00. Looks like you're looking at a minimum $350.00 for new bare head only. It would take much more time to repair the cabinet yourself, but you'd come out cheaper in the long run, if cost is a factor at all. There are vids online from HEP to others showing how to sand and fill, and repair damaged wood cabinets. It's a daunting task, but you'd end up with the original cabinet, and lower repair cost, and same color yellow. Just a thought.

ebay.com link: Taxi Pinball Cabinet Decal Set

ebay.com link: TAXI Pinball Machine BACKBOX TEXT DECAL Die Cut PEEL AND STICK

One way to clean up the topper: You can sand it and remove the yellow just like you do with a headlight restoration kit. Start out with 800 grit and go finer on the flat surfaces. You are going to be wet sanding. Then use cutting compound and polish to restore a shine. It will take a while. But it does remove the outer oxidized layer of plastic.

Ed Cheung (Lots of Space Shuttle Restoration Stuff) says that super concentrated hydrogen peroxide will whiten yellow plastics. His link to the process doesn't work anymore. I do remember that you have to order the hydrogen peroxide somewhere, and it won't be terribly cheap.

This is the route I will be taking. I agree it's a bit intimidating as I've never done it before, but I think it will be worth the effort and I'm happy to learn on-the-job, especially with all the great resources and advice available here. I just received my decals I ordered from Planetary Pinball. I have pretty much everything I need, I just have to get started.

I read through Chris' recent ES restoration. He used a brand new cabinet and commented that System 11 cabinets can be problematic to restore due to "football" shaped plugs or something along those lines. He also suggests that over time (years) bondo and filler can create problems as well. My System 11s are keepers so this certainly has me leaning towards new cabinets for the ones that need significant repair. Though I will probably learn how to make my own before paying $800+ for one.

Chris

More pictures..

Christopher H. uses new cabinets since he doesn't pay for them and guess what - they are easier to use than fixing the old one. The rest of us have to live on a budget and bondo/filler will do fine.

Scott

Just sharing the info. I was not aware of the potential issues with the cabinets.

Chris

attached a pic of a 'football' .. seems its how knot repairs were done

football.JPG

That looks like a woodworking biscuit.

Said that I would post a pic of my yellowed Taxi topper after I whitened it up. Well, after trying out 3 different methods, here it is.

Process: My first attempt was a heavily concentrated bleach, OxyClean, and corn starch as a thickener, which I let sit in the sun for the day this summer. I did 3 applications of this method and had minimal results. Decided it would cost a fortune in concentrated bleach at the beauty supply store, so I abandoned. I then tried acetone, which removed some of the yellow, but not enough and was roughing up the finish. Third time was a charm: I found that Krylon made a plastics spray paint and primer. Even though the paint said no primer needed, I used 600 grit sandpaper on the topper first, layed down a few coats of primer, and then painted white with 2 coats. You can see a little area at the top left that looks rigid. I left the topper in my garage to dry after the first coat and came back to put the second coat on the next day. I didn't notice that a spider had laid down some webbing on the topper in between coats....will note next time, lesson learned. Didn't look bad enough to redo and it's out of site, so being my machine, I'm not too concerned.

topper.JPG

Heh....nope. That's what bright ass LEDs are for.

Also, the last thing I ever want in my backboxes is LEDs or anything bright. Makes it impossible to play with the glare (since I'm a dark-room player). If you are routing, then yes, your goal is to make the game impossible to play. Shove LEDs in every hole. =)

I go 47's in the backbox to keep it dark. That's my style. Same goes for the topper. My previous owner spraypainted mine white. Looks fine to me, and the bulbs light up fine. Again, I don't want it bright.

-mof

In my Taxi I put yellow 555's in the topper to dim it down then left the standard flashers for a bit of a pop when they go off. No one will ever notice except for me - that's what matters right?
--
Jeremy Agema
Central WI

You looking for new?

Used lockdownbar:
ebay.com link: Williams Pinball Machine Lockdown Bar Firepower Taxi Whirlwind Fun House Gorgar

Sent my High Speed lock down lever assy bar to these people 4 years ago, they re did it in the original Hexavalent Chromium yellow finish original to the bar at the time:
http://www.saporitofinishing.com/

Or you can just search for local metal finishers/platers and have your lock down lever assy bar done locally

PBL is the best place for a new lockdown bar/receiver. the wpc receiver will work.

I haven't heard that word in 20 years...

Was grody still being used in the 90's? Very mid-80's for me....

Chris

You can get a new one from Mantis Amusements (http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm). This is where I'll be ordering mine for my Taxi restoration.

Now that I really do the math...you're right. Maybe even late 70's? My recollection is grody.

Regarding new cabs, this guy is a forum member and got some good reviews for a cab that was at Expo. Seems very reasonable Shipping is a killer for me though.

http://www.xtremepinball.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65

I'm pretty sure this is the guy I tried out a cab to see if it would work. Here is a pick with one edge flush - check out the other side...

IMG_0175.JPG

IMG_0176.JPG

I used a nice de-greaser and simple green, some would offer bleach white instead. Put mine in the sink, sprayed the wires and plugs up to the transformer, then brushed with a toothbrush, cheap home depot paintbrush and rinse the wires and plugs only. Have a can of compressed air avail, and blow out the plug and wipe all dry, spray some cleaner on a paper towel and just wipe the body of the transformer.

I mix 1-3-2 parts of: de-greaser, simple green, and water in a spray bottle. I don't recommend using my mixture on any painted parts as it's strong. But I did clean all my boards with it, and simply spraying that solution on the boards made the nastiest stuff drool off. Brightened all my solder joints, and was safe enough for the solder mask.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-128-oz-Driveway-Concrete-and-Masonry-Cleaner-ZUCON128/100619236#.UmohzRDbUoM

I just use vice grips opened up wide enough to grab that hex washer and then do the rest by hand.

Lookin' good Rich. Cant wait to see the out come.

I just use needlenose pliers to grip one side of the nut and start turning it until I can finish it by hand.

Painting season is done here since I paint in the garage. Hopefully finishing some stencil work on Knock Out this week before it drops below 60 again.

Usually they are stuck on with double sided tape.

If you see "rivets", those are screw nails.

Sometimes you have these and double sided tape

screw nail.jpg

Guess I am chopped liver!