(Topic ID: 60603)

Restore Time: Taxi


By Richthofen

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 400 posts
  • 84 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by cad-kid
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

Topic Gallery

There have been 121 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

pinside.png
201411-TX-flare2.jpg
201411-TX-flare1.jpg
photo 3.JPG
photo 2.JPG
photo 1.JPG
fuse breaker.jpg
IMG_1637.JPG
IMG_1638.JPG
IMG_1636.JPG
image.jpg
Taxi 176.jpg
Taxi 175.jpg
P7100080.JPG
scan0010 - Copy.jpg
201411-TX-right-ramp.jpg

There are 400 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 8.
#1 6 years ago

My CPR Taxi Playfield has arrived! I'm super excited to take the Taxi I got last October and tear it down and restore it. This is daunting for me; swapping a playfield is definitely a step up from the other small tasks I've done. I'm hoping I can use this thread to chronicle my progress as well as pose questions and get support from the veterans here on Pinside.

First question: I'm going to order decals soon. The head has some pretty severe gouging at the corners. What's the best way to handle this? This is a joint where the cabinet is nailed together; should I be pulling the old nails out on the points where the wood is worn away?

IMG_1392.JPG IMG_1393.JPG

#2 6 years ago

Best of luck, taxi is such a great game, well deserving of a restore. Wish I had advice for the cabinet, but hey free bump.

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

First question: I'm going to order decals soon. The head has some pretty severe gouging at the corners. What's the best way to handle this? This is a joint where the cabinet is nailed together; should I be pulling the old nails out on the points where the wood is worn away?

I'm going to move this to the technical help sub forum. There are some guys here that have posted some amazing cabinet restoration pics and entire threads that can help you. As a non-exclusive example, check out what Trilogybear did in his Sorcerer thread. Amazing stuff.

#5 6 years ago

Taxi is not an easy "first PF swap" machine. It may not be as involved as some others, but it's definitely not on the easy half of the spectrum. I will start mine this fall as well (once it has cured at least 45 days as recommended). I'm a bit a nervous, but with care and lots of pictures, it will turn out well. My early Stern PF swap was a cake walk in comparison.

Do you have any tools, specifically a router? If so, you could use a router and a straight edge to remove a the corner cleanly and glue in a piece of solid wood along the seam. With a littel wood filler and some paint, it could look good as new. In my case, I will simply build a brand new cab and head, but I have plenty of tools and a decent amount of woodworking experience.

Best of luck.

-Steve

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from Evets:

In my case, I will simply build a brand new cab and head, but I have plenty of tools and a decent amount of woodworking experience.
Best of luck.
-Steve

Oh man, that's awesome. My cab is in ok shape, as far as I can tell. Wish you were closer, I'd definitely commission you to build me a new head for my game!

#7 6 years ago

Well lets go, tear this bitch down already!

#8 6 years ago

Pics Pics Pics!

You can't take enough pics of your process. These threads are always so fun.

#9 6 years ago

Good luck with it. I'll be paying someone to do mine and the decals!! I'm a DIY frickin disaster

#10 6 years ago

The corners of the head are going to have to be filled and sanded. And filled and sanded. And filled and sanded. Until you are sick of it. Still easier to fix than the the laminate boxes like the Bally 6803s. An original restored Taxi. Best of luck, my pinhead friend. I think I'll take a break from Pinside and go play me a game

#11 6 years ago

$229 for a complete WPC cabinet kit. Wonder if they could also do system 11? Considering my woodworking skills, this would make more sense to me vs. restoring a really rough cabinet. Though I totally understand if it is also about the experience of bringing it back from the brink as close to original as well. I just don't have the time....

http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=78

#12 6 years ago

I too have my CPR Taxi playfield, I've never done a swap, so I'm right there with you. I'm constantly told pictures, pictures, pictures, and video. Maybe this thread will become a best of the best P/F swap ideas and experiences.
Try this guy too..

http://www.letsplaypinball.com/cabinets.html

#13 6 years ago

You can never, ever, EVER take too many pictures. Trust me on this, and that's just from shop jobs. There will be SOMETHING you forget to take a picture of, even if you have 400 photos

Best of luck with the swap. i don't have the stones to do a full PF swap.

Chris

#14 6 years ago

Gah. This is pretty damn complicated. Trying to keep cables attached to their components, and disconnecting at the board. I don't look forward to re-assembling these connectors.

IMG_1402.JPG IMG_1405.JPG

#15 6 years ago

The topper is filthy. Dead bugs inside. Probably no good way to restore its color back to white, I assume? I've seen some people restore toppers by painting, but won't that affect the transparency? Love to hear suggestions.

IMG_1407.JPG IMG_1409.JPG IMG_1410.JPG

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

The topper is filthy. Dead bugs inside. Probably no good way to restore its color back to white, I assume? I've seen some people restore toppers by painting, but won't that affect the transparency? Love to hear suggestions.

I've been wondering the same thing. I have the new decals for it. How to get it back to being white again I'm not sure. I was thinking maybe letting sit in bleach or bright white or oxiclean for a long time.

#17 6 years ago

Anyone know what this part is? found it in the head, not attached to anything. Looks like it was 'modified'.

IMG_1411.JPG

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from PinWiz17:

I've been wondering the same thing. I have the new decals for it. How to get it back to being white again I'm not sure. I was thinking maybe letting sit in bleach or bright white or oxiclean for a long time.

Where did you get the decals? Can't find them anymore.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

Anyone know what this part is?

hard to see but it goes on lock cylinder and moves backglass mech up and down

2012-06-19_20.25.35.jpg

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

Where did you get the decals? Can't find them anymore.

I got mine from marco a while ago knowing the once I got my playfield from cpr a full restore was coming. The only place I've seen them lately is on ebay.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=230832192571

#21 6 years ago

There was a plastic whitening (using chemicals) thread a couple of years ago on RGP. If I can find it, I'll add the link.

-Steve

#22 6 years ago

I'm planning to join this party in the near future as my playfield is on its way. It will be my first swap and restoration as well. I'm looking forward to it.

#23 6 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

The topper is filthy. Dead bugs inside.

At least your topper has the dome light PCB. Mine was missing completely so I made one (http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-taxi-topper-dome-lights). Not as nice as a PCB, but you can't tell from the outside when the back glass is on.

#24 6 years ago

I bought the topper decals from Ebay and am satisfied with them, my left one is gone. I simply cleaned my topper with some goo gone on a soft cloth which got rid of any nicotine deposits and such. Don't think there is much for bringing it back to white. The plastic is yellowed from UV and heat exposure over the years and more brittle now than when new. The only replacements are inaccurate knock offs. Handle it like crystal!

This will help on your found part from the head.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-backglass-lock-to-get-for-a-williams-sys11-jokerznewbie-needs-to-know

#25 6 years ago
Quoted from Evets:

There was a plastic whitening (using chemicals) thread a couple of years ago on RGP. If I can find it, I'll add the link.
-Steve

Google for Retrobright. It's a mix of household cleaners that supposedly works. If you try it, be careful and do a small area first.

#26 6 years ago
Quoted from Richthofen:

The topper is filthy. Dead bugs inside. Probably no good way to restore its color back to white, I assume? I've seen some people restore toppers by painting, but won't that affect the transparency? Love to hear suggestions.

Yours is actually in great shape IMO, it's yellowed but the plastic seems to be good. Mine is not only yellowed but also extremely fragile, and a lot of the rim where the screw holes are is brittle and cracked off. I'd enjoy it as it is, but that's just me.

#27 6 years ago
Quoted from PinWiz17:

I've been wondering the same thing. I have the new decals for it. How to get it back to being white again I'm not sure. I was thinking maybe letting sit in bleach or bright white or oxiclean for a long time.

I've tried this with my topper and after about 3 coats (oxiclean + high concentrated bleach + corn starch (thickening agent)), I had decent results, but nothing spectacular. I think doing many, many, many more coats might work, but would get really expensive. I was told to use acetone and after wiping it on, wipe it off fairly quickly with water. I'll try this and post some results soon.

#28 6 years ago

If you want a shiny new Taxi - tackle that cabinet - bondo is your friend. This restore may seem scary at first, but do a few and you will get the hang of it. You are going to have to pull those connectors to remove the pf. Check out my garage right now...MB, TAF, FH, and WH20 x 2 cabs in progress.

Scott

#29 6 years ago

oops forgot the pic

005.JPG

#30 6 years ago

Yeah, the hard part is that I have never done woodworking or Bondo or anything like that. Last thing I want to do is have it come out all wavy or uneven or have it crumble off the game after I've painted it.

I also don't have a garage. Kind of tempted to just buy a new cabinet from Let's Play Pinball, now that I've seen the link. Easier than trying to paint in my basement. I kind of wish there was pinball apprenticeships. I'd love to spend a day with someone learning how to do this kind of work.

#31 6 years ago

Be very careful - I've tried other vendors of "cheap" cabinets and they did not work out. I have not tried Let's Play Pinball, no experience with them. Just make sure it will work out. Taxi has a pf swivel and you want all the holes in the right place.

#32 6 years ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

You are going to have to pull those connectors to remove the pf.

I bought some self-laminating cable labels to label everything before I pull it. These labels can be printed on the laser printer and give a very nice finished look and make it real easy to get all connectors back in their proper places. I got tired of using a pen on masking tape when removing the back box and wanted something that would look much nicer. Here is a link to where I purchased them in a few different sizes: http://www.cableorganizer.com/ziptape/print-on-label-sheets.html

#33 6 years ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

IYou are going to have to pull those connectors to remove the pf.

THIS.

Just take tons of pics. I was intimidated too at first, but EVERY machine has to have the head come off to get it in my basement. NO issues yet. GL!

#34 6 years ago

Head's already off Just stressing over next steps.

image.jpeg image_(2).jpeg

#35 6 years ago

Nice!

You got a tron now too huh? Damn, movin' on UP!

#36 6 years ago

Go - go - go! yank that stuff out!

006.JPG 007.JPG

#37 6 years ago

I have 3 to do as well, getting butterflies with this thread.

#38 6 years ago

Going to start with the backboard. If I paint this, should I be removing all the lamp sockets? What about the large blocks? they appear glued on, not screwed on. I could just mask/tape over the sockets. Also the blocks have these weird foam pieces. Not sure I'd be able to replace those.

Also how do I get these plastic standoffs for the meter board off without breaking them?

Paint recommendations? I'd be using spraypaint. Otherwise, I could just scrub with simple green/magic eraser, I guess.

IMG_1419.JPG IMG_1416.JPG

#39 6 years ago

I just repaired my blocks, they are glued and stapled to the light board, the foam strips held the plastic mirror, so that block would be completely covered, you can mask off the edges and top foam side of the block with the blue painters tape or similar, because it's easily removable. I simply glued my mirror to the foam strips because the sticky on the double sided foam was dried out. That's where the mirror goes. I also added foam around the stop-lite, Williams pinball palace sign, and meter display to block the light bleed from the other bulbs, made a huge difference. The lite-board is also adjustable in and out to prevent the bulbs from touching the translite and scratching/burning. The divider around the Williams sign bulbs is painted cardboard, and glued to the lite board. You should be able to gently knock out the standoffs from the back side with a punch or bottom end of a drill bit and rubber mallet. Just some ideas for you.

IMG_1778.jpg

#40 6 years ago

few more

IMG_1775.jpg IMG_1776.jpg IMG_1777.jpg

#41 6 years ago

put old bulbs in the sockets and shoot it with white primer. Good to go!

#42 6 years ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

put old bulbs in the sockets and shoot it with white primer. Good to go!

Why would I paint it with bulbs in the socket? wouldn't some of the aerosol of the paint get into the sockets, causing even more problems?

#43 6 years ago

That's the way I do most of mine that need a repaint - it keeps the paint out of the sockets.

#45 6 years ago

Old bulbs in sockets, spray it, remove old bulbs and install new. The old bulbs will keep paint out of the sockets.

I have used Krylon Fusion plastic paint on things like the topper, and they come out pretty decent. If the light is too dim after painting it (a couple light coats will work wonders, and probably won't block that much light...), maybe put some brighter lamps in there. As much as I hate to say it, perhaps some LEDs...

#46 6 years ago

Try this, tear some newspaper or paper towel into small pieces, loosely wad them up and press into the hole/socket in the light board, then pull out with tweezers after you paint, simple and pretty much free. If you accidentally spray too much paint on the bulb it'll run down the bulb to the socket. The paper will absorb and help prevent that.

#47 6 years ago

Like I said white primer will get you these results with bulbs in the sockets. I did these about 2 weeks ago...

003.JPG 004.JPG

1 week later
#48 6 years ago

I apologize for the delay. Things have been busy (wife is 5 months pregnant so lots of appointments, getting the house ready, etc.) Yesterday I painted the light-board a dull white after cleaning it. Used newspaper crumpled into the sockets to protect'em and masked off the foam. First photo is after, second photo is before.

Still thinking about what to do w/ the cab. put out a message to Doug at Let's Play Pinball but he hasn't gotten back to me. Haven't found anyone local that's been responsive yet.

IMG_1424.JPG IMG_1418.JPG

1 week later
#49 6 years ago

Finally got my tumbler, and I'm learning how to tumble parts. How do you guys clean the tumble medium out of the parts after you've tumbled?

Also, I bought one that ended up being gigantic. It's 'turbo' so I don't think I have to run it for days. Going to try for 8 hours, see how it goes.

amazon.com link »

#50 6 years ago

make sure your wing nut for your lid is on tight at all times!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
2,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Williamsburg, KY
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
There are 400 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 8.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside