The title says it all, boy is this one in rough shape. So I picked up a White Water at an auction recently. I was able to play it and inspect the exterior but not see inside. The game played well, playfield in in great shape and cab appeared decent - it was very tight between games so could not really see the sides.

I got it home and finally look inside.... my god why someone would do this to a machine is beside me and just sad. The entire power junction box is gone, wires are cut, taped, soldered, bunched... just a total mess of the harness.

Overall, I overpaid... typical, and par for the course for me. But, not letting that get me down. I'm all in, want to make this babe shine again.

So here is the Good:
Playfield looks great
Boards looks really good, no alkaline damage, no overheating
Yeti looks good just dirty
Everything works
Translite is good

Bad:
Cabinet has been screwed glued, nailed... its a mess, needs a new cabinet for sure
Wiring needs a LOT of help in the cabinet
most Mountains need to be replaced
Ramps need replacing
Topper dome is toast
Topper decal has a huge crease in it... may be salvageable
Plastics are yellowed
Coin door is not working at all
missing coin chutes

So first order of business is getting the wiring back to stock. Once that is done and I can verify its stable and reliable
, start tearing er down.
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Crash yes all ramps, plastics and boulders will soon be up for sale

Here are some pics. Someone decided to put a ton of wood screws everywhere lol. The game looks like it wasn’t even really played much all the ball drop zones have no damage.

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Well so far here is what the order list looks like:
• Brand new topper dome
• Brand new set of all ramps and subway from Starship
• Brand new set of plastics
• Mirco Playfield and mini playfield
• on a waitlist for new boulders.
• all parts to rebuild power junction box, and line filter box
• possibly going to just do a brand new cabinet, will see when i tear it apart.

Soon as I get all the power related parts, needs to get it back to stock and working reliably and then tear er apart.

Squeakman ya your telling me Ramps alone where 650. I did not get a deal lol. But love the game and love restoring so its ok

Yup I am very familiar with flame polishing and your right it can absolutely bring them back to life. My creature ramps look new as I did it to them. My ramps are not all that bad chances are I’ll flame polish them and sell them

Well, not much to report here. Basically in parts sourcing mode, after ordering parts, returning parts, and ordering more... I think I finally got all the correct parts to rebuild the power junction box. In case someone needs to do this in the future (as it's not easy to source all the parts due to naming) I have listed them here:

• Power junction box WPC-89: https://goo.gl/JDijmL
• Corcom 5VK1 EMI Line Filter: https://goo.gl/XqMoNu
• VARISTOR: https://goo.gl/1HkCQ2
• Thermistor 8amp: https://goo.gl/QeMJYD
• Fuse holder: https://goo.gl/ufTK54
• AC Service Outlet Snap-In: https://goo.gl/kbxjTs
• Box Line filter Chassis: https://goo.gl/aS8seL
• AC power inlet IEC: https://goo.gl/9KyfFT
• AC power inlet protective cap ( though it was called a boot lol): https://goo.gl/FxR4Fs
• AC Power cord: https://goo.gl/Ez2C7r
• On/Off AC Switch: https://goo.gl/FES6gG

LOL! northerndude you do great work man, what are you talking about. Its all about fun!

However, let's just say this one I may have to take a mortgage out on my house to complete this thing. I got WAY more than I bargained for. I know why whitewater is one of the most expensive games to resotre, But no giving up!!!

yes it is an import and most likely part of the hackery

Darn it!

dsuperbee yup the infamous playland whitewater... poor thing

More coin door hackery, some of the stuff that was done to this machine I just don’t get... like this; twist connectors with stray wires coming off? Look like the old operator was trying to hijack the coin door slots lol

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Well made some great progress today. Previously the coin door was not working at all. The interlock switch was nonexistent, coin switches where not working, test menu controls were not working, and the main wiring harness as seen in the post above had all sorts of hackery going on.

Took a look at the schematic, and cut soldered, heat shrink tube'd lots of wires and BINGO!! We are in business, all coin door controls work so I was able to get into the test menu, and to my pleasant surprise... all the switches where working aside from a few that needed to be re-soldered.

Yup already have a new topper done and going to try and get the wrinkle out if I can

Well the new playfield arrived. Without going into details pretty disappointed, in
some quality issues but I’ll get over that.

The larger disappointment was the blaintent disregard of customer service from micro. I was just astounded.

Onward we go
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So here is the short story. I purchased a NEW Mirco Playfield from a fellow pinsider (that's a little different story in itself). Evidentially he purchased it at TPF last year, and it has since sat in its box FLAT.

Now, the pictures the seller posted did not show the imperfections but I find it hard to believe he did not notice, and just shot them in the light that didn't present the issues. But, Like many, I bought the hype of Mirco playfields having the best clear, so at the time I was not even concerned, they are the best right!

I get the playfield and open it up and IMMEDIATELY notice lots of waves and uneven areas of the clear, almost to the point it looked like ball sized recessions in the clear. NOT NORMAL.

OR maybe I'm just being too picky / perfectionist??

I reached out to Mirco, and at first, he was pretty defensive and deflecting of helping in any way. Basically said verbatim "what do you expect me to do. when you buy a car a year later you can't just take it back to the dealer." Well, that was not helpful, and pretty abrasive but whatever.

After a long exchange of texts, trying to explain my situation and stressing that "customer service" is more important than your products, he is going to reclear it.

Now, I still have not received the return label, so we shall see... IF he does make this right I will be thankful and a believer in him and his products, where currently I was not.

I will keep you all posted.

Here are only 2 pics but what you see here is consistent throughout.

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In brighter news made lots of progress on the teardown today. Basically got everything out of the cabinet and the playfield on the rotisserie ready to get disassembled.

Lockdown bar is a little rough and the hooks on the inside are bent, but may be able to salvage.
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Plumb is missing, and the wiring here is all reconciled from the previous mess it was
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Cabinet pretty much cleared
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Sending all boards out to Chris Hibler to be fixed, cleaned and beefed up
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For the most part, the boards are really clean
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Backbox Cleared
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Noticed something interesting on my upper playfield that I have not seen before. Does mine have a metal disk where the ball drops, wonder if this was a protoype?
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Topper light boards need some new light sockets anyone know the part number on these guys?
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Next Playfield clearing!
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What an absolute fiasco this playfield has been. Decided to send it back to the original seller (whom is being VERY difficult) and just order a brand new one from Mirco

Mr Yeti needs a bath

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Any idea why the previous owner shimmed two of the Upper payfield supports?

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Well... looks like that got a little hot
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Looks like the dome melted and the smoke color bleed discolored the plastic above hahaha
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Lots more progress over the weekend. The goal was to clear the top, and start labeling parts and organizing them. As I removed more and more parts, I found lots of interesting things. Overall the Playfield is still in decent shape. The area near the pops needs new mylar is cracked and coming off.

Boulders are pretty rough but the top and right and left sides are pretty good
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I do think this machine was exposed to some moisture at some point as some of the lamp bases are rusty, as seen here, they will get replaced
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Ramps are cracked in the front, common.
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Otherwise most the ramps are in good shape! Nothing a bath and some flame polishing cant cleant up - these will be for sale soon!
Insanity ramp is in really good shape
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Clearing the playfield went smoothly didn't find too much out of the ordinary which was kinda a nice surprise.
Slings are beat
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Pops area, mylar is dunzo
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Some smart indivisual added this metal disk in the upper PF ball drop area
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About to remove the Upper
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Just need to remove remaining ball guides
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Basically, all cleared
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Staring in on the bottom. I label any connection that is getting de-soldered.... better safe than sorry

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Removed all the mecks from the bottom of the playfield
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Pop bumpers where pretty rough, these guys are getting totally rebuilt.
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Cleaning parts as I go, some are getting removed entirely for cleaning
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Targets looking like new!
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I noticed something where the subway mounts... this does not seem right? Just a larger rubber spacer and a MASSIVE screw that went all the way through the playfield? Is this normal?
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Lol! Thanks so much buddy I actually think I found a loose spacer matching that description in the bottom of the cabinet! Just need the screw.

Ok I was confused for minute, then realized that caliper must be centimeters. The spacer I have found is part 03-8371 measure 1 1/8” which is roughly 2.75cm so I think this is it?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-8371

Parts, parts, parts! thank you to pinball life and Marco, dunno what I would do without you guys .

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Ok what jerk I was finally a few pics of some parts. We have
Full pop bumper rebuild parts,
switches,
bulb sockets,
new stand up targets,
new coils wrappers,
cab protectors,
led flipper buttons,
3x flipper rebuild kits,
new B.B. clamp,
new playfield hangers,
new posts (going all light blue)
New light domes in orange
and a bunch o other stuffs
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Actually Davi I would agree with you on that one, when it’s brand new decals, yes they can and will cause rincles. However my new cabinet has metal cab protectors, and then these are used on top (more for aesthetics) so they will. Or even be touching the cabinet art . I did it on my fishtales works like a charm
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More cleaning, and starting to replace switches and bulb sockets. This is actually the first game I have had to restore a significant amount of the sockets. It's pretty interesting that the majority of the rusty sockets are along the left side of the playfield and not as bad on the right.

Chain of sockets behind the river targets where the worst, they are getting replaced
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More rusty sockets
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Brand new sockets and new wiring
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Wired back in the GI circuit
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New switches
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New Targets
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Next moving on to rebuilding all the coil mecks... ya this thing is beat
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oh interesting Davi maybe i will re-think those then i appreciate your help here!

FINALLY!!! Got my money back for that playfield, good god that was a nightmare, the seller was... let's just say VERY difficult to deal with. I think he knew the clear was flawed and played it off like he didn't know... then when I wanted to send it back he kinda fought it tooth and nail, but paypal obviously ruled in my favor, thank god it DID NOT send for friends and family.

But New playfield on the way from Brian thanks Bryan_Kelly !! Onward we go

Starting to clean, and rebuild all the mechs.

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Well made tons of progress on all the mecks. Every one was de-greased, washed, new coil wrappers, new coil tubings, any questionable part replaced, and put back together.
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Pops like new
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This coil is toast, was from the VUK
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Like new
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The yeti was a total mess
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Yeti bath time
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Time for some veneers
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All clean just need to reglue one of his arms to the hand
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Ball guides all cleaned, as was able to get out the majority of the serious ball lines

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Just got word from ChrisHibler that my boards are on the way back to me. He found the Chase lamp board was a bit of a mess. Someone had begun repair and left parts off. Root cause was probably a blown trace. It works 100% now. Driver was ugly with jumpers. Repaired that properly with headers, etc. the MPU Had corrosion under the battery holder that would have caused issues soon. Mpu now has nvram installed as well. Ready for years of fun!!

Well replaced almost every gi socket due to rust, and even some feature lamp sockets.

The topper light board had a busted socket
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Started cleaning the ramps, then going to lightly wet sand, flame polish and then they all will be up for sale.
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I don't think I left the garage today, for more than about 45 minutes. Lots and lots of soldering. Basically replaced almost every gi socket, about 6 feature lamp sockets, and a few flashers due to rust. The tumbler has been going 24/7... and I'm on my second one, the first one kinda blew up haha, good think i got the 15.00 added protection .

Reproducing the shooter lane decal
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cleaning all the harnesses and i found a nice place to hang dry them 'Merica
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Painted the cabinet vent screen blue found a spray paint that is darn close to the Whitewater cabinet color
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Lots of polishing, half these parts you won't even see when playing.. but i like detail.
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Micro switches getting replaced everywhere:
BEFORE
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AFTER
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A bunch of IDC connectors are getting replaced, and I had to do a ton of harness clean (soldering /splicing / etc...) up this is by far the worst harness I have worked with.
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The power transformer is getting the royal treatment
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Guess what arrived today playfield number 2! And boy look at that clear... this is how its supposed to look, no waves thank you @bryan_kelly
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What colors you guys think for the pop bumper bodies and skirts?
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Elicash beat ya to it! That was like my first order cliffy and mantis protectors

Squeakman that area of the PF has boulders on top of each pop, oranges / yellows go better with the boulders was my thought thanks for the input

Well another long but enjoyable day in the garage. got the main harness swapped over to the new playfield and a whole bunch of other stuff

Painting all the bolts matte black
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Then the first major order of business was straightening the lockdown receiver that was bent to all heck
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Installing all the T-Nuts. Im sure some of you are freaking out seeing a mallet in there. I prefer a mallet to "tap" the t nuts in just enough to hold, then i use my handy dandy puller tool works wonderfully, the key is the bearing.
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Time to make some custom cut mylar for the pops and ramp lane drops
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Lets mover er' over
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Ball guides and stands up targets in
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Pre-drilled the holes so these guys go in nice and easy
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Decided on orange bodies and white wafers, i like
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Time to wire in the pop lights to the GI circuit and using my favorite long nose stapler
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New Jump wires soldered in
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Pops are done!
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Slings are in
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the subway VUK in in
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More soldering, But im hungry time for a break
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Thanks for the posts guys, def gonna mylar that area of the upper PF. Finally done on the bottom for the most part and moving to the top!

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Light boards all ceaned and on! Flame polished the subway came out pretty good
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Bulb and more bulbs
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Handy dandy bulb tester
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Ball guides going on, starting from the back
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This is a must when installing on playfields with a thick clear... and my favorite watch in the background
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Looking good.
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Pops and posts,
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Hey Crash actually I was going to go 2smd frosted from comet... but I have never tried fluted, only concern would be glare if looking in the direction of one?

Oh those are 2smd faceted not fluted,
Faceted left, fluted right (u may already know the difference) disregard the non ghosting badge

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mbaumle thanks man have one However... though those boards are amazing... they actually don't work in every game, some just don't like them. I had one in my Fish tails and for some reason it did not like it, and kept blowing the LED OCD fuse... put it in my Creature... no prob. So I'm hoping it works.

Yup thanks guys I have both the cliffy protectors and mantis ramp protectors on hand . Also decided to go with 2smd frosted warm for gi

I didn’t realize that Cliff was so close so I decided to drive down to his place to pick up my white water protectors couldn’t be a nicer guy thanks so much @cliffys

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Cut some Mylar for the ball launch drop zone

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mollyspub Im with you on that thought, and honestly probably not needed... but it cant hurt and this mylar is SUPER thin to the point you will not even notice. I get my mylar from Ron Kruzman, his is the thinnest i have found

Got my new boulders today! They look great and man are they made well nice and thick. They are definitely less flimsy than the stock ones. Now just need to get the new signs riveted on. Since Im sure someone will ask these came from PSA in Australia, from what I gather they only have 1 set left. I was going to wait for Starship Fantasy, but seems 6 months is the consistent timeline whenever I ask.

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Thank you so much for that knowledge cosmokramer @bryan_kelly. I just reached out to Paul at virtuapin who's building my cab asking to lower the pivot holes 1/8" that's a great idea

Ok guys so need an executive decision here, as that had occured to me also... as random as it may sound I dont want to lose the glass tap. I feel its one of the unique features of whitewater... Pretty sure if there is space issues I can figure something out, little trimming here and there, heat gun etc... And yes! NoahFentz if you make it to norcal you welcome to come play anytime

OK that's kinda what I was thinking 1/8" is not much.

hahahahah

well Cliff helped me out today rivet the signs to the boulders... the only bummer is my plastic set was missing the boulder garder sign I reached out the Larry at Starship, hope he can send me one.
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I also decided to re-create the art so i could just remake my own, as this one does break a lot and nobody has them in stock.
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It's finally starting to look like something
Slings are done!
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Test fitting the boulders with the cliffy protectors fits perfect!
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Blue led Trough light
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Looking good
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Initially I had purchased the decal for the left sling ball guide then I realized Drano makes a super awesome plastic that looks like it was factory! Love it
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Yes he has a few left from.what he told me, just pm.him

Well there was a reproduction topper on eBay that was one of the better ones that twisted pins made, figured what the heck they are impossible to find.

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Another Great Sunday in the garage drinking coffee and working on the ol' White water.

Got the first ramp in, predrilled the holes and it fits like a charm
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First MAJOR order of business was installing the Mantis ramp protectors. Unbeknownst to me, these can actually be extremely challenging to get in just right. They can interfere with the 3D targets, and if you have a clear coated playfield the thickness added makes then basically impossible to install. Fear, not some very careful sanding and tweaking and they fit perfect.
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First, The target hole needs to be sanded and the back of it needs the clear basically removed
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Got the first one in there! But I was not a fan of how the inner part of the protector (non-ramp side) has a flange also and makes the lock shot entrance narrower, and it's really not needed.
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Let's take care of that
Before
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After
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There we go much betta!
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Next, I got the mini playfield together
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Test fitting i had to sand the back of the mini playfield a little cause the clear had bled over the edge and was adding thickness
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Whirlpool added and the mini is in!
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Look at that Happy Yeti all clean
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The whirlpool required a little bending with a heat gun to get the drain hole centered in the light board, but it fits perfect now!
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Rebuilt the upper playfield sign, both the old plastics where pretty yellowed
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Kinda hard to tell the old is left new right
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Like new!
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And installed
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Well i received the reproduction topper. The foil reproduction is not horrible, but definitely not as textured as the original, ill put up some side by side pics.

Finally got the last plastic riveted on thanks so much to cliff Cliffy what a great guy. This weekend hoping to finish the topside!

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This will definitely need to be repainted it’s not even close lol

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Elicash actually cliff, whom helped me with the rivets has a wide jaw table mounted rivet press... So with that it was no problem. But pretty sure the pin restore one would be just as capable

More great progress today. Basically, the playfield is done!

Spine Chiller ramp all together ready to go on
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And it's on!
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Ramp mounted perfectly, I'm amazed these ramps From Starship Fantasy fit really well, with minimal tweaking needed.
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Ball Launch Wireform is in
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Putting decals on the upper playfield "ball of yarn ramp" as im calling it.
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After lots of test fitting I got er in there, but man... this was not easy. I also oped for machine screws and nylocks where the ball of yarn ramp connects to the whirl pool ramp.
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First, I had to dremmel the bottom of the ramp entry cause the plastic on these ramps is slightly thicker. Then I had to trim the channel below the bigfoot, so his diverter didn't rub.
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Here is a top-down shot, man those ramps look like glass!
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Installed the lower playfield ramp
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And the Insanity falls ramp is in! I have not fully bolted it down cause im waiting on my awesome blue nuts from Chroma Pinball Wescobar
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Snuck in a nice double bendie, to add some blue hues down in the back
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ANNNDDDD... the final boulder fits great!
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Lookin just amazing if I don't say

Watch out man!
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Which way!?
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Thanks so much for the awesome decals PinballPimp
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Next on the order is getting skull mountain to match better, Still needs some work and color tuning, but looking 100% better.
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Hey Crash they are actually decals, not factory. Though I'd say they should have been

Ya skull mountain mod found it on Ebay ebay.com link: 0

Thanks Scott! I'm seriously taking this restore so slow as I want it to be the best it can. So far this is the best restore I have done, and very proud. I have some very subtle little improvements I'm doing but keeping very true to the theme next just need the cabinet and rebuild the power system

Got my missing mountain today. I was really excited to get this, while I don't mean to be cynical, its not really what I was expecting. Kinda looks like a bad popover haha. I'm going to try and paint it and do some distressing to help it, but I'm not sure I'm going to use it.

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jonesjb yes it is the famous trashed whitewater from play land

well, I think I found the last legit missing mountain! I am going to be selling the one above after I paint it better. Pm me if you're interested.

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Well trying to finish up every loose end that i can before my cabinet gets here so I can just focus on that.

Cleaned up the wiring on the 15 pin connector for the transformer... Clearly the old owner dropped his soldering iron or started a bbq in here cause a lot of the wired where melted together.

One was so bad i had to cut it and solder new wire on, you can see he wrapped it in heat shrink here
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wire cut and going to solder on new wire.
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the old connector had been destroyed and then glued
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Like new
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Now the harness side, it was kinda a mess too but not as bad
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Done
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New GI IDC Connector
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No more cracked left boulder
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Got my chroma nuts!
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This beauty arrived, man its cool! Can't wait to see it lit up
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Sanded and primer the old shooter gauge
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New paint ready for decal
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Better than new!
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Here is a fun comparison of the Twisted Pins topper remake and the original, look how much more texture the orig has, BUT, I must say the remake is pretty good, have to do a light test.
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close up
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Skull mountain has been paint matched and installed! Took some tweaking as it was not designed to play well with the mantis protectors.
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Today decided to clean up the old ramps and throw them on eBay came out great!... Except for the whirlpool lol, It was cracked and just slight heat opened up the cracks big time. but the rest looks great! If your interested here is the listing and comes with the boulders as well:
ebay.com link: itm
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The last of the chrome has arrived from Chris @sc93cobra. I am just always blown away by the quality. Thanks so much for what you do for the hobby Chris.

So far here is the chrome list:

• Legs
• lockdown bar
• both power boxes
• power cord cover
• side rails
• H channel
• glass back guide
• speaker panel base
• Topper front trim
too much? no way haha

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So its actually not as bad as it seems. first I would remove the VUK wireform. Then i would unscrew and remove the ramp that kinda wraps in from of big foot. Then unscrew the falls ramp. after that is done there is only 4 points of attachment you will find that are long metal posts. The connections are pretty easy to remember as they all have different pin connectors, but cant hurt to label them. if you have issues ping me.

Great question and i'm sure there are plenty of philosophies on this. For me, i dont label "everything" even though i have said that in a post hehe. I label all switch connections, to ensure the same switch goes back in the same harness side connector.

Any switch, target, or coil leads that de-soldered all get labeled, and pictures taken.

I actually didn't label GI or feature lamps on this build, but I did a pirates of the Caribbean in the past and I had to as there where tons of feature lamps in a circle and would be easy to mess up ... so i just used a naming index a for that ie.. F1-F9.... then if i need to label other lamps i would use a different prefix say M1-M3... Hopefully the "M" and "F" relate to some degree the lamps meaning.. example the rafts on White water R1-R9...

Hope this helps it really comes down to experience and what works for you... some times i use a label maker ... other masking tape and sharpie... my first game i did... I labeled EVERYTHING. ITs very time consuming but i was so thankful i did it when i came back months later to finish it...

Started diving into the speaker panel. I tried to salvage the panel plastic but it had some very deep gouges that I would have had to sand for a year to get out. So a nos one is on the way.

In the mean time made a template and repainted the grills blue
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Been out of commission for a while. Had a surgery on my leg and finally started hobbling around again. Got work a little on the pin. I needed to get the speaker panel all done as it’s the last thing before my cabinet gets here - hopefully next week

Originally I was going to use an illumated speaker panel, but after testing fittnent with flipper fidelity noticed some work would need to be done, nothing serious but u can see the wire would get crusaded by the speaker mount. I mean it’s a quick dremmel fix but I didn’t feel like doing it.
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Additionally either they don’t use the h-channel or mine they forgot to drill... sooo bailed on that. Keeping it stock.

Speakers in
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Needed to do a little trimming as always when using a color lcd and FF speakers
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After fits perfect
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Speaker grills staples on with new custom blue logos
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Chrome h channel
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New speaker panel plastic and chrome h channel all done
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