I may get one, upgrade the LEDs, and beef it up... I had good luck fixing old, cracked boulders with fiberglass resin and cloth, I bet that would make it strong enough.
(Topic ID: 225602)
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White Water
Williams, 1993
Topic Gallery
Walnut Creek, CA
cosmokramer for sure I think that would do the trick, I’m going to upgrade my leds also if they are not bright enough
1 month later
2 weeks later
Hey cosmokramer it did, but the playfield and back ox holds where not drilled
so ordered some paddle bits and hope I don’t mess it up drilling straight is my largest concern... as I imagine these holes are typically drilled before the cab is assembled with a drill press or guided drill... you would know best
Use a forstner bit to start the hole, the switch to a standard bit and use one of these...https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1312-DrillBlock-Handheld-Drill/dp/B00F1ZJFZK/ref=asc_df_B00F1ZJFZK/
You use paddle bits when you need a hole, that's mostly round and generally the size you want with tearout expected. You use forstner bits when you want a very round hole, exactly the size you expect.
Running wires through a joist? Paddle bit.
Drilling a precise hole? Forstner bit
Quoted from Soulrider911:Thank you just ordered! So Paul from vurtualpin suggested paddle bits over standard drill bits so that is what I had ordered?
They may be OK,, just test them in the drill block before you use them on the cabinet. I like starting with the forstner bits first because they do a great job of cutting through the decal without wanting to tear it...then I complete the hole with a standard bit because those work best in the drill block....
d1002 (resized).jpg
Thats crazy that after waiting for so long for a replacement it came with such an obvious error. I hate to say anything negative about Paul's business, but that should have never happened...
Quoted from cosmokramer:Thats crazy that after waiting for so long for a replacement it came with such an obvious error. I hate to say anything negative about Paul's business, but that should have never happened...
It actually isn't an error. Just as discussed earlier in this topic, every restorer has a different preference. Chris (HEP) likes them down and back 1/8", as do others. We, therefore, leave that to them. WH2O is even a special case, where there is two distinct placements, depending on where in the run it came out. It's not something we can 'undo' once done, and we ship great distances. Drilling them is a much bigger potential problem than not drilling them. I learned that the hard way. Never again.
I originally did do them for Soulrider911, but they weren't part of the original order. I did them as a favor when he asked. When we replaced the cabinet, we replaced the cabinet as ordered. I have apologized for missing that little detail. It was easy to forget after the extended backorder on the decals. :/
I am always happy to help when someone reaches out, as well.
Quoted from NoahFentz:It actually isn't an error. Just as discussed earlier in this topic, every restorer has a different preference. Chris (HEP) likes them down and back 1/8", as do others. We, therefore, leave that to them. WH2O is even a special case, where there is two distinct placements, depending on where in the run it came out. It's not something we can 'undo' once done, and we ship great distances. Drilling them is a much bigger potential problem than not drilling them. I learned that the hard way. Never again.
I originally did do them for Soulrider911, but they weren't part of the original order. I did them as a favor when he asked. When we replaced the cabinet, we replaced the cabinet as ordered. I have apologized for missing that little detail. It was easy to forget after the extended backorder on the decals. :/
I am always happy to help when someone reaches out, as well.
Fair enough, thank you for clarifying. I just remember that the first cab was drilled, so I thought it was overlooked on this one...
I love revival stories - this is great! I would lose my sh!t with the problems you experienced. I had to deal with a completely BUNK Mirco Funhouse play field. Clear coat cracking, Uneven, soft, holes drilled crooked and holes drilled 1/8" off to the right. I was under the gun (having someone who does restores for a living in limited space doing the swap) so instead of getting another Mirco (almost assuredly to have the same issues) I ponied up $2200 for a NOS play filed cleared by Kruzman. I spent so much money that I'll lost money if/when the day ever comes I decide to sell it. However, if it's a game you love the investment portion doesn't matter at the end of the day. It's just money - and you'll go to work to make more of it right? Right!
I've been considering restoring a TAF I just bought - nice to see your review on the cab you bought. I considered buying one from them and using RAD CALS instead of the decals.
WH20 is a sweet game and you're doing a fantastic job! So good your grand kids will be playing on the same hardware lol. Nice job dude!
PS - if I owned one I'd do the bumble mod!
No worries we will get er going and thankyou all for the help. cosmokramer @noahfentz. This is why this community is so great ask a question and you get answers
.
Ordered a set of Forstner bits!
CLEllison sorry to hear about your Mirco experience sadly these stories are becoming all too common with their playfields... I mean take a look at the JJP pirates post are chipping thread.
Oh and about bumbles, I’m going to pass not for me, and I love my yeti and put some serious time into bringing that dude back to life
Quoted from cosmokramer:Fair enough, thank you for clarifying. I just remember that the first cab was drilled, so I thought it was overlooked on this one...
No worries. I definitely thought it worth clarifying. I think it's also worth clarifying that we had to wait like three months (!?) for the licensed decals to arrive to match the backbox. It was a long wait for me, too. Not a position that's fun to be in. Ugh.
After nine years of cab building, I've fully replaced cabs for some pretty crazy stuff. In one instance, I had to replace a TZ cab for using 'OEM' hinges that didn't match the nickel plated 'OEM' ones he wanted to use. Apparently, there's about 5 different aftermarket 'OEM' backbox hinges for WPC cabs. When I offered to nickel plate hinges to match, I was told they wouldn't match the mirror blades!
I stand fully behind everything I build, so there has to be some assurances those silly, little things aren't going to cost me hundreds to replace and ship.
Ok I think we are finally back with some forward momentum.
Kinda funny to have two brand new whitewater cabinets sitting here
E2EF24E5-DDA7-4675-ABAA-B1AC44526826 (resized).jpeg
I was able to get the playfield holes drilled... which by the way is probably the most stressful holes I have ever drilled, as they have to be very accurate, and not tear the decals or wood. I used two bits to accomplish a clean cut thankyou cosmokramer for the suggestion.
D3082125-7FAF-4151-8F87-2794526F105A (resized).jpeg
Next I need to install new ground braid and start moving everything over.
1 month later
3 weeks later
Looks like this got put on the back burner for awhile...hopefully it will get going soon, I really think its going to look great.
Sorry for the delays on this one. Small update. Got the backbox on and wired up, I still have not “Flicked the switch.”
I have a pretty major surgery this next week - out of state - that I have been preparing for. So my hope is to finish this when I am back on my feet.
My reproduction serial labels about to go on
1B66DD32-8CB1-46BE-AF2B-422A249F5056 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
3 months later
It's finally ALIVE!! 100% error-free and plays AMAZING! This has been a long journey, and I am so excited to finally be able to play this amazing game. This was BY FAR the most involved restoration I have done yet. Mostly due to the rough shape this game was in. I thought it would be more fun to make a video. Enjoy!
Thank you IdahoRealtor lot of blood, sweat, and tears right there.
Calgary, AB
1 month later
Soulrider911 beautiful build. I just picked up a white water and plan to do a complete tear down and rebuild minus the playfield and cabinet swap. Would you be able to post or forward your order invoice from Marco? I’m mostly interested in all the small posts pop bumper hardware under playfield hardware etc you ordered. It would be much faster to make my order if I had your invoice for reference. Thanks!
BF043A76-48E6-4D0B-81D0-FF9FFA267B71 (resized).jpegRight on cconway84 congrats. Well, I didn’t place one order... it was multiple. I will see if i can dig up the invoices. However I just went off the manual and that is how I know how many of each posts, rubbers, etc.. to order. The manual can be found here: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2768
2 months later
New to the forum...your restoration inspired me to sign up! I’d be throwing out upvotes if I could. What an amazing job! Really, almost a scratch build, which I’ll be attempting. I’ve got a cache of WH20 parts on the way.
That apron is excellent! You sourced that from overseas? https://www.pinball-dreams.com/en/component/virtuemart/illuminated-aprons/illuminated-apron-white-water-detail.html
Anyone know where to source the wire ramps (shooter ramp 12-7044 and upper play field ramp 12-7049) and the 11 & 12 light boards (A-15764 and A-15767)? Will be going with LEDs in these in any case. Thanks in advance.
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