White Water
Williams, 1993Cliffy makes an essential metal strip that goes where the VUK pops the ball up to upper pf. That was an interesting mod with what looked like a large metal washer under some mylar.
But I really recommend the cliffy or else the ball puts a dent into the upper playfield wood. Eventually the ball will sit in the divet and get stuck.
nice work so far!
Quoted from Soulrider911:elicash beat ya to it! That was like my first order cliffy and mantis protectors
squeakman that area of the PF has boulders on top of each pop, oranges / yellows go better with the boulders was my thought thanks for the input
Your right. I completely forgot about the boulder plastics that go above them. I was just thinking about the clear ramps. I see what your doing now. I'd still go white at the wafer. I think I like the yellow a little better than orange.
Well another long but enjoyable day in the garage. got the main harness swapped over to the new playfield and a whole bunch of other stuff
Painting all the bolts matte black
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Then the first major order of business was straightening the lockdown receiver that was bent to all heck
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Installing all the T-Nuts. Im sure some of you are freaking out seeing a mallet in there. I prefer a mallet to "tap" the t nuts in just enough to hold, then i use my handy dandy puller tool works wonderfully, the key is the bearing.
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Time to make some custom cut mylar for the pops and ramp lane drops
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Lets mover er' over
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Ball guides and stands up targets in
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Pre-drilled the holes so these guys go in nice and easy
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Decided on orange bodies and white wafers, i like
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Time to wire in the pop lights to the GI circuit and using my favorite long nose stapler
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New Jump wires soldered in
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Pops are done!
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Slings are in
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the subway VUK in in
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More soldering, But im hungry time for a break
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I love these threads. All the work and technical stuff is wayyyyy beyond my capabilities...but I enjoy learning little by little. Thanks for sharing!
Quoted from Davi:Makes sense to add a piece of mylar.
An even better solution is to just place a cliffy protector there. It’s essentially a metal plate that’ll keep the ball from wearing divots in, and creating a ball hangup.
Quoted from mbaumle:An even better solution is to just place a cliffy protector there. It’s essentially a metal plate that’ll keep the ball from wearing divots in, and creating a ball hangup.
That area is not protected by Cliffy's WH2O set.
Cliff mentioned a possible redesign of VUK protector (extended version); I will contact him again.
Wh20Cliffy05 (resized).jpgThanks for the posts guys, def gonna mylar that area of the upper PF. Finally done on the bottom for the most part and moving to the top!
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Light boards all ceaned and on! Flame polished the subway came out pretty good
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Bulb and more bulbs
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Handy dandy bulb tester
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Ball guides going on, starting from the back
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This is a must when installing on playfields with a thick clear... and my favorite watch in the background 
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You have some in your box in the lower right in that first photo. I've seen them on MMR and AFMR and to me glare isn't an issue.
Side note. If you’re planning on using LEDs in the GI, you should 100% consider using the LEDOCD GI board. White Water is one of the few games that uses the dimming feature pretty extensively and well integrated with the game’s lightshow. Without the board, you’ll either need to turn dimming off, or live with the horrid strobe effect.
mbaumle thanks man have one
However... though those boards are amazing... they actually don't work in every game, some just don't like them. I had one in my Fish tails and for some reason it did not like it, and kept blowing the LED OCD fuse... put it in my Creature... no prob. So I'm hoping it works.
Ah I see. There’s clearly some naming confusion amount resellers. Yeah I prefer the appearance of the faceted LEDs in your picture.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=75
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:You're probably going to want to get these. Those green targets take a real beating.
https://mantispinball.com/product/whitewater-protector-set/
And these
20181014_181550 (resized).jpgQuoted from Soulrider911:Cut some Mylar for the ball launch drop zone
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Wise choice.
GWH2O 011 (resized).JPGmollyspub Im with you on that thought, and honestly probably not needed... but it cant hurt and this mylar is SUPER thin to the point you will not even notice. I get my mylar from Ron Kruzman, his is the thinnest i have found
Got my new boulders today! They look great and man are they made well nice and thick. They are definitely less flimsy than the stock ones. Now just need to get the new signs riveted on. Since Im sure someone will ask these came from PSA in Australia, from what I gather they only have 1 set left. I was going to wait for Starship Fantasy, but seems 6 months is the consistent timeline whenever I ask.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Got my new boulders today! They look great and man are they made well nice and thick. They are definitely less flimsy than the stock ones. Now just need to get the new signs riveted on
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Wow... Do you have a good source?
The plan by Starship Fantasy is very simple: 3 months from now. This is the default answer.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Got my new boulders today! They look great and man are they made well nice and thick. They are definitely less flimsy than the stock ones. Now just need to get the new signs riveted on
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I might as well mention this now. Because of the extra thickness of the ramps and then the mountains, you may have an issue with the playfield glass hitting them when you install it. I know I did...particularly the one one on the far right and the big one in the back.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:I might as well mention this now. Because of the extra thickness of the ramps and then the mountains, you may have an issue with the playfield glass hitting them when you install it. I know I did...particularly the one one on the far right and the big one in the back.
I had a customer request a WH20 cabinet to be built with the playfield pivot holes drilled 1/8 " lower for the same reason...
Great progress so far Brady, its amazing how fast you get these done...nice work
Thank you so much for that knowledge cosmokramer @bryan_kelly. I just reached out to Paul at virtuapin who's building my cab asking to lower the pivot holes 1/8" that's a great idea
Quoted from Soulrider911:Thank you so much for that knowledge cosmokramer bryan_kelly. I just reached out to Paul at virtuapin who's building my cab asking to lower the pivot holes 1/8" that's a great idea
Been following...your going to be very happy with your cabinet from virtuapin! They did my BOP 2.0
I talked to the Virtua Cabinet guy and he is super nice. The problem I had was a fully assembled cabinet from him was cheaper than the shipping. I wish we had a guy out west who did cabinets. I have a Sorcerer cab I've been considering just getting done, the old one is pretty rough. Btw, absolutely amazing work on this game, its gonna be amazing when done.
Quoted from Squeakman:I talked to the Virtua Cabinet guy and he is super nice. The problem I had was a fully assembled cabinet from him was cheaper than the shipping. I wish we had a guy out west who did cabinets. I have a Sorcerer cab I've been considering just getting done, the old one is pretty rough. Btw, absolutely amazing work on this game, its gonna be amazing when done.
You may want to call me again. I'm coming up with $250 for shipping (yes, I do eat a bit). That's less than a third of the cab price. 
I'm definitely excited to see this one finished. It's been my favorite table for years. Had one, sold it. Ugh.
Any chance I can come play it when you're done? Believe it or not, I have yet to play a machine restored in one of our cabinets! LOL
Quoted from Squeakman:I talked to the Virtua Cabinet guy and he is super nice. The problem I had was a fully assembled cabinet from him was cheaper than the shipping. I wish we had a guy out west who did cabinets. I have a Sorcerer cab I've been considering just getting done, the old one is pretty rough. Btw, absolutely amazing work on this game, its gonna be amazing when done.
Heres a sorcerer cab I built for a local pinsider....Im not too far from you
20180825_193534 (resized).jpgOk guys so need an executive decision here, as that had occured to me also... as random as it may sound I dont want to lose the glass tap. I feel its one of the unique features of whitewater... Pretty sure if there is space issues I can figure something out, little trimming here and there, heat gun etc... And yes! NoahFentz if you make it to norcal you welcome to come play anytime
I bought some reproduction boulders a few years ago. I don’t know who made them but I think I got them from Marco. They are thick, solid, came with decals and sign applied, and did not give me any clearance issues. Although they are missing some of the factory original painted details, the ball still hits the glass as designed.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Ok guys so need an executive decision here, as that had occured to me also... as random as it may sound I dont want to lose the glass tap. I feel its one of the unique features of whitewater... Pretty sure if there is space issues I can figure something out, little trimming here and there, heat gun etc... And yes! noahfentz if you make it to norcal you welcome to come play anytime
It's my understanding that it's going to hit the glass even 1/8" lower, probably even a 1/4".
It isn't a feature, it worked out pretty much by accident, but I think the ball gets a lot more than 1/8" air. You should be good.
I used to live in Los Gatos, but moved to be closer to family. Some day, perhaps ...
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