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(Topic ID: 247198)

resto: Space Odyssey (mof: 20190630)


By mof

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 101 posts
  • 14 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 months ago by LeChuck
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

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There are 101 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 1 year ago

After building a collection of "favorite 80's pins", I decided it's time to shake things up a bit, and go back even farther in time and try out some games where luck was more of a factor often with wider flipper gaps and tougher outlanes (or much worse!). I love the sounds and the immediate kinesthetics involved with EMs.

Do I love them enough to have one in the house and replace a top-20 80's game? I don't think so, but one can try?

But what if a good friend offers one up for free?

YES! Sold!

So I'm very excited to finally, after 7 years in the hobby, to dip my foot in the EM pool. Very exciting moment in time...
Fortunately, these FREE "barn-find" machines came with a guarantee of free unlimited phone/text support, and without it I would have been doomed, (not being an expert at reading EM schematics.)

With a few tools (he did drop off a required flexstone strip, so that was helpful!), solid state experience, and a trusted troubleshooter on the help-line, I was convinced I could get this thing running in a few days...

It came as a Space Odyssey and a Space Mission to be merged into one good game.
We unscrewed all the parts from both machines, then put the Space Mission cabinet and head on the side yard...

PLAN
I asked for a sensible battle plan. My friend suggested:

1. The Space Odyssey playfield was much nicer, this pretty much dictates it.
2. The Space Odyssey BG doesn't exist.
3. Using the bottom from Space Mission.
4. Using the backbox of course from Space Odyssey. Has a lot of missing baffling
5. Chose the best head and cabinet. (Space Mission I think)

Let's take a closer look, and see what we are starting with...

Also, as I'm a rookie with EM's -- feel free to chime in with any nomenclature corrections or suggestions...

space mission and odyssey (resized).jpg

OPEN QUESTIONS:
* How much will all the broken MDF mess with the BG lighting for controlled lamps? Will I have to rebuild any of it?
* Will I be happy with a used BG or do I have to plunk down $269 for a CPR with super saturated colors...
* Will I practice some vid1900-level work and level the PF and clear-fill all the inserts and paint the insert rings black? (This would be a good title to practice on for sure.)
* Should flipper buttons have springs in them?
* best pitch?

CLOSED Q'S
* How will I deal with all the bad sockets? Solved: Use the 443-Dremel, and check continuity between the parts!

DONE (44.5)
* CLEAN 150+ SWITCHES and CRY A LOT until the thing plays (10)
* Cabinet, troll it for parts with magnetic wand, and vacuum/clean it out (.5)
* Legs, set pitch and level (0)
* Solenoid test (0)
* Switch test (ensure "CPU" and Physical switches all register each switch) (.5)
* Playfield glass channel, rustaway and polish it (.5)
* GI lamp board, remove all bulbs, and install only 10 (my personal taste) (.5)
* Backbox, clean and vacuum it (.5)
* Plastics, clean and flatten (they look fine!) (0)
* Star posts, clean and wax, and reinstall (done for me) (0)
* Playfield, clean (done for me) and wax (.5)
* Plug, ensure it’s in good shape (0)
* Pops, molex and rebuild all three and adjust all leaves to hair-trigger perfection, install new skirts and lamp sockets (3)
* Acorns, install new set to match plastics, fill any holes that are loose (.5)
* Chimes, clean and polish up the unit
* Shooter, ultrasonic, and re-install; replace 1" spring if needed to keep tip from scraping against PF (1)
* Lockdown bar receiver, de-rust, clean and reinstall it (1)
* Flipper buttons, ultrasonic and reinstall (.5)
* Lockdown bar, de-rust, clean and install new foam (.5)
* Playfield brackets, (that seat in the lockdown bar) tumble and reassemble (.5)
* Backbox channel, derust and clean it up (.5)
* Tilt bob - center it, and ensure the ring has no tape or crap on it (.5)
* Score Reels, clean with water and Qtips (2)
* Power switch, clean it and the bracket (.5)
* Flipper button switches, replace with new parts
* Remove etching from lockdown bar (1)
* Orbit, buff and polish smooth, also the orbit bars (1) -- gotta do this, this one is rough to the touch, and they are not shiny at all
* fix match unit (.5)
* Kickers - slings, clean and reinstall (1)
* Kickers - holes, clean and reinstall (1)
* Coin door, remove any dents <-- big dent !!! (1)
* Coin door, disassemble (2)
* Coin door, scrub, clean, and de-rust all 100+ parts (4)
* Coin door flap, remove and de-rust it (if stainless steel) (1)
* Coin door, clean it, regrain it (2)
* Coin door, assemble (3)
* Woodrails, ensure all screws are in all the way and NOT stripped, to minimize contact with cabinet rails (0)
* Coin door, re-attach and check wiring and make sure it's all zip-tied away from colliding with the lockdown bar arm (.5)
* Shooter Lane protector, polish and reinstall (.5)
* Trough parts - tumble, clean and put a new sleeve in to get super crisp ball serves... (1.5)
* Legs, de-rust, polish and wax. Install new leg levelers and floor sliders (.5) 44.5

ON DECK (6+)
* Flipper assemblies, disassemble and clean, check part quality (4)
* Switch adjustments (1-2-3 lanes, outlanes) (.5)
* Leg bolts, polish and reinstall (.5)
* Coin door carriage bolts, remove and clean or polish them (.5)
* Slam Tilt (put rubber around for home use)
* Playfield guides and edges inside the cabinet, clean/wax them for ease of movement

SKIPPING
* restore the cabinet -- on second thought...
* restore the playfield (but leveling inserts is still open)
* Spinner, paint strip it, spray paint it, bake on the paint, and reassemble it (skipping)

CABINET (1-2 hrs)
* Cabinet wires, clean them for appearance
* Cabinet wires, ensure the 2 harnesses move freely when playfield is rotated up/down
* Fuses, review and replace to spec
* Instruction Cards, new acetate covers for them (0)
* Transformer, clean up transformer
* Fix front corner with clamps and glue! (.5)

HEAD / BACKBOX (2-4 hrs)
* Backglass, add enough foam insulation material on the lamp board and display edges until the backglass cannot move once everything is properly in place. Test your work by rattling the head to simulate good nudging. Remove the tilt bob first, to TEST the system. The pin should be dead quiet when you rattle it.
* Backbox, clean the lamp board, tumble and reassemble door brackets
* Backglass, clean both sides carefully
* Backglass, install new grip tape to better hold the backglass channel and trim
* Backglass channel, (if stainless steel) polish, clean or replace
* Jones plugs, set them for freeplay, correct game, sound, and/or set functions
* GI lamp board, verify no sockets twist or move when trying to install a cleaned up 47 bulb <== lots of bad sockets all over this thing !!! ack !!!
* rebuild baffling if needed for controlled lamps on lamp board

PLAYFIELD (2-4 hrs)
* Alignment, review any shots that send balls at the flippers, and adjust alignments as necessary
* Bulbs, install ultrasoniced 44s <== lots of bad sockets !!!
* Inserts, clean back of each one with a Q-tip!
* Inserts, ensure they are all flat. Adjust and re-glue any that are not
* Lamp (controlled) test
* Lamp sockets, review that all work properly, and clean/replace any that need it
* Lamp sockets, verify none twist or move when trying to install a cleaned up 44 bulb
* Posts, Ensure all posts are in the correct spot with healthy screws. Unscrew/screw them all back in
* Rubber kit, install new one (half done) (.5)
* Solenoid check, ensure they are all to spec (not too strong not too weak)
* Solenoid sleeves, review them all, and clean or replace them
* Wires, inspect EVERY wire termination for breaks/fraying and cut/re-solder as needed
* Wires, check all GI and ground wires on the sides of the playfield, and all staples to ensure none are getting pinched when the playfield is down (get your staple gun fired up)

#2 1 year ago

Here's a look at the cabinet. I won't be touching it, period -- other than perhaps straightening up the coin door. Looks like I need to build a backbox door out of wood eventually...

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#3 1 year ago

Here are the guts...

I see a few things to address beyond cleaning all the switches and contacts...

* mushroomed shooter
* rusted power switch
* dirty chimes
* dirty cabinet/head

-mof

87,021 plays ??? I wonder how much of that just came from troubleshooting the switches ? (haha)
20190629_Space-O_1-bottom-jones (resized).jpg20190629_Space-O_1chimes (resized).jpg

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#4 1 year ago

So again here's the plan:

1. swap parts so I have one whole machine to work on.
2. clean all switches in the bottom, check the fuses, then install the bottom -- test and continue.
3. install the backbox, then clean all those switches -- test and continue.
4. install the playfield, then prop it up and clean all those switches -- test and continue.

Then pray and see if you can serve up a ball...
-mof

#5 1 year ago

This will be the first time ever, that I don't just start right in and clean up the playfield first. This will take...

Patience.

A whole lotta patience. We have a 0% known quantity here. I hope to have it up and running in a day or two... assuming my hotline doesn't go dark on me, haha.

-mof

#6 1 year ago

Cabinet/Head "were" Space Mission, so we gotta start with some swaps...

First thing I'm noticing is how damn heavy these pieces are... Who wants to throw their back out? I'm thinking the best way to move them is to overhead press and keep the tummy tucked... who knows.

I was able to unscrew the bottom board and remove it solo (barely).

I think some critters had been in there, and I used my micro attachments to get some of the tighter corners.

From what I can tell the bottom of the cabinet is secure, and I can go ahead and install the bottom board for Space Odyssey.

I took apart the chime unit and got them in the rust-away, and then I'll tumble 'em... Just want that started. Lots to de-rust here.

I can't bear looking at that power switch cover, gonna get that in the solution too...

Gotta love life's little detours.

I presume, I can clip away those wires going nowhere on the back of the coindoor area... they are about 3" lengths.

-mof
20190629_Space-O_2vac-bottom (resized).jpg20190629_Space-O_2chimes1 (resized).jpg

#7 1 year ago

The anticipation -- I hope it's like having a new musical instrument set up in the garage. I expect it to be quite relaxing to have in here...
-mof

#8 1 year ago

Already lovin’ this thread! Keep it coming!

#9 1 year ago

First time doing this. Feels like about 1 minute per switch... I'm guessing 2 hours on the bottom board.
More confident I'll be able to play a game today/tomorrow.
Plug it in soon and see what we get...

I'd sure like to remove all the hardware and clean up this board, but... I think I'll save that for a grail some day...

Flip this thing around, and wrap up all these switches.

-mof
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#10 1 year ago

Dropped it in, and plugged it in...

After some troubleshooting and phone help, I think we've got it adjusted and goin...

Step2 out of the way...

-mof
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#11 1 year ago

3. Swap out the backbox score reels and clean 'dem switches!

That was a bit easier to move. I removed that lower door channel and dropped it in the rustaway...

vacuumed and wiped in there, got it pretty clean now.

20190630_Space-O_2backbox-clean (resized).jpg
#12 1 year ago

Got another issue. It's pinball. Lifeline helped me track it down. I think these two should both be attached to the red wire.
-mof
20190630_Space-O_2missing-wire-score-reels (resized).jpg

#13 1 year ago

Plastics and backglasses are available from our good friends at CPR. Colors on the backglasses aren't a true match as I am sure others will point out but overall they look amazing and I have one in my Space Odyssey. Specifically, it is the moon/planet on the left which is more yellow in the CPR version and more white in the originals I have always seen.

My suggestions as someone who owns one as far as your repair list goes:

Spend the $7.00-$10.00 Steve at Pinball Resource charges per pop bumper and rebuild your pops. You will NOT regret it, especially since you are starting with a "barn find" table.

PBR sells a flipper rebuild kit. It's $49.99 if I remember correctly. They will become snappy and strong again. You will not be disappointed. PBR also sells a chime unit rebuild kit that is only $7.50. It is so worth it and I know from your photos of your chime unit that it will improve the sound of our chime unit immensely.

If you want to talk about selling me the playfield you don't use I'd love to talk about it with you. Hit me up if you're interested. I have been looking for one for years and have posted in the PFs Wanted thread here multiple times with no luck. Again, shoot me a PM if you want to talk about it.

Reviews on Pinside aren't too favorable, but I really love my Space Odyssey/Space Mission. Have fun and good luck. Lots of helpful cats in the EM section of Pinside if you hit snags! I'll be following this thread closely!

Again, have fun and good luck! EMs are awesome!

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverBallKid:

EMs are awesome!

Thanks for the ideas, I'll respond in a bit.
-mof

#15 1 year ago

Score reels are alive, and of course, counting all funky... We chased down a few things, and I feel like we're close.

I gotta get this thing just right apparently... I tried pushing down on the bottom switch, then bent it back up, and now it works? WTF This took hours...

Player2 score reels: you summab*tch...

4. Playfield is next...

-mof
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#16 1 year ago

When do I get to clean anything? Those score reels are making me nuts...

20190630_Space-O_1scorereels1 (resized).jpg
#17 1 year ago

Here's the clean and shiny...
-mof

Ok I totally forgot the ones that are hidden from view... NOT DONE.

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#18 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverBallKid:

If you want to talk about selling me the playfield you don't use I'd love to talk about it with you. Hit me up if you're interested. I have been looking for one for years and have posted in the PFs Wanted thread here multiple times with no luck.

I hope you’re able to score the spare PF. I love the late Williams EMs. I have a Space Mission and Grand Prix.

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from Toucanf16:

I hope you’re able to score the spare PF. I love the late Williams EMs. I have a Space Mission and Grand Prix.

HA!!!
I have those two as well.
They are the only two EM pins I own.

Edit: I have the two player version Space Odyssey, but close enough.

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverBallKid:

Plastics and backglasses are available from our good friends at CPR. Colors on the backglasses aren't a true match as I am sure others will point out but overall they look amazing and I have one in my Space Odyssey. Specifically, it is the moon/planet on the left which is more yellow in the CPR version and more white in the originals I have always seen.
My suggestions as someone who owns one as far as your repair list goes:
Spend the $7.00-$10.00 Steve at Pinball Resource charges per pop bumper and rebuild your pops. You will NOT regret it, especially since you are starting with a "barn find" table.
PBR sells a flipper rebuild kit. It's $49.99 if I remember correctly. They will become snappy and strong again. You will not be disappointed. PBR also sells a chime unit rebuild kit that is only $7.50. It is so worth it and I know from your photos of your chime unit that it will improve the sound of our chime unit immensely.
If you want to talk about selling me the playfield you don't use I'd love to talk about it with you. Hit me up if you're interested. I have been looking for one for years and have posted in the PFs Wanted thread here multiple times with no luck. Again, shoot me a PM if you want to talk about it.
Reviews on Pinside aren't too favorable, but I really love my Space Odyssey/Space Mission. Have fun and good luck. Lots of helpful cats in the EM section of Pinside if you hit snags! I'll be following this thread closely!
Again, have fun and good luck! EMs are awesome!

I agree with the rebuilding advice above. The machine will play much better with the new parts. I cleared the playfield on my Space Mission and rebuilt all the playfield mechanicals. The game is very fast and fun. Bye the way I have a Space Odyssey playfield in my Space Mission. The only difference is the color of the pop bumpers. It works perfect. Good luck with your game.

#21 1 year ago

Playfield switches are done...

-mof

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#22 1 year ago

Atta boy! Keep it up.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

Atta boy! Keep it up.

Thanks.
100's of dead Qtips.
Best $1 ever spent at the dollar store!
-mof

#24 1 year ago

You are now a now a second generation graduate of the NicoVolta school of em repair!

#25 1 year ago

Of course there were many hiccups along the way, but my coach walked me through it all...

It's ALIVE !!!

#26 1 year ago

So wait a sec (*if* you can read schematics) -- does that mean EMs are easier to get working than solid state? That only took like 10 hours, (maybe 5 hours of cleaning and 5 hours of troubleshooting) and zero parts.

-mof

#27 1 year ago

I'm with you mof

I own both Space Odyssey and Space Mission.
My Space Odyssey is playable but the PF is not nice. My Space Mission, on the other hand, has a near perfect PF but everything else was trash.
So, first I was thinking, ok, let's put the Space Mission PF in the Space Odyssey cabinet since Space Odyssey is more sought after (for the nicer backglass), but then I've realized that... they are labeled in the middle of the playfield... no way I can sleep with a Space Mission playfield in my Space Odyssey

Anyway, I resigned myself and started to restore the Space Mission. And I agree, even if I like it a lot, my CPR backglass has some major differences with the original. Not sure if it's the same for everybody but inside the O letter they forgot to paint the little speck in blue...

Anyway have fun with the resto (you'll be done waaay before me, I started a year ago and I'm super slow

SM (resized).JPGSO (resized).JPGBGs (resized).JPGo (resized).JPGIMG_20190715_192657 (resized).jpgIMG_20190715_192610 (resized).jpgIMG_20190715_192616 (resized).jpg
#28 1 year ago
Quoted from manples:

done waaay before me

Well it's apple and oranges. I'm not restoring the BG, PF or Cabinet -- I aim for max playability, feel, cleanliness, rust removal, and move on...

clean games, looking good.
-mof

#29 1 year ago

Well, in that case, the fun is near

Does your match unit work? mine wasn't and it seems to be pretty common (needed to get a Ratchet Armature assy A-7989)

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from manples:

match unit work?

no idea...

#31 1 year ago

Isn't the match unit and the alternator the same unit?

#32 1 year ago

We got most of the last goblins out, seems like the "CPU" is 98% there. 2 players can play. Haven't tested match yet. Tilt works.

Now I get to work on some things I know something about !!! Williams games !!!
whew...

Shooter and chimes are next... they are bugging me.
pops rebuild soon.

I got really lucky, the last fella that had this ALREADY naptha'd the PF... so I just had to vacuum and wax it, and replace the rubbers (did the lower half for now) He may have cleaned up the flippers too -- they seem decent. I'll put new flipper switches on there, or maybe I won't !

I like how the flipper buttons are totally different. Look forward to seeing how they look when taken apart.

-mof

#33 1 year ago

I think it's time to get out the shopjob checklist and get to work... How about an hour a day for 30 days or so... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shop-job-master-checklist made a few edits, since this isn't a solid state.

(see first post -- I just moved it)

-mof

#34 1 year ago

Clean those sockets with your Dremel. Pull and stretch the spring and crimp in the sides.

This assumes the tabs are still tight

#35 1 year ago

Is the focus the spring or the sides? Some day, I need to meditate on how a socket works and where it makes contact...

#36 1 year ago

Use the same tip 443 you use on the switches.

#37 1 year ago

Good project! Fun game.

Quoted from mof:

So wait a sec (*if* you can read schematics) -- does that mean EMs are easier to get working than solid state? That only took like 10 hours, (maybe 5 hours of cleaning and 5 hours of troubleshooting) and zero parts.
-mof

I sorta think they are. Once you get the hang of how they work, they are pretty straight forward. Just like an old car, you gotta play them regularly so they keep running.

rd

#38 1 year ago

Let's get these pops done! I have heaps of Williams parts on hand. I think I'm going with new white skirts, but I'm keeping the inside part original, since we know new ones are not translucent (shame shame) Doing 'em one at a time. But why? Shrug...
-mof
20190706_Space-O_3poprebuild (resized).jpg

#39 1 year ago

Original mylar looks well intact, and did its job...

20190706_Space-O_3poprebuild4 (resized).jpg
#40 1 year ago

I'll use new rings too -- I used emery cloth on 'em first to take the edge off.
I'm even gonna re-use the lamp socket. Yep, I'm doing that...
20190706_Space-O_3poprebuild3 (resized).jpg

#41 1 year ago

We are good - lamp is strong with no fluctuations. Skirt seems properly adjusted.

Onto #2...

20190706_Space-O_3poprebuild6 (resized).jpg
#42 1 year ago

This second pop is in a b!tch of a location... it's behind a wall of relays. I loosened the relay screws a bit, and then used a flathead to turn my socket from a distance. It worked...

20190706_Space-O_3poprebuild7 (resized).jpg
#43 1 year ago

Well looky here!

I tell ya, I need to do this on all my pins, I have a couple without rebuilt pops. It makes such a big difference. I realize having them adjusted perfectly is most important, and I have that on all my games, but the extra clean "POP" is really nice -- you can hear it and see it.

-mof

20190706_Space-O_3poprebuild8 (resized).jpg
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20190706_Space-O_3poprebuildA (resized).jpg

#44 1 year ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

Clean those sockets with your Dremel.

Meditation complete. After 7 years, I finally put in the time to figure out how to test sockets... WOW!
Slayed 3 dead sockets tonight -- stoked.

Dremel slayer!!!
-mof

#45 1 year ago

You’ve helped me so much in the past 2 years here and there with solid state trouble shooting. I’m so glad to be cheering you on as you dive into the EM world! You got this man!

#46 1 year ago

I have it on 5-ball, I may move it to 3-ball since I can roll it twice...

Question for all SM/SO owners -- I never have the lights on the two inserts for left and right rollovers. When should they come on? (it could just be the sockets) but wondering the logic. I looked at some vids, and it seems they come on to start? Anyone know?

-mof (always rule-challenged)

Toucanf16
Coindork
Silverstreak02 
manples
SilverBallKid

#47 1 year ago

Yes, the left and right rollover lights should be on at game start.
Hitting the swinging target during game play should also turn them on or off as well as the center rollover for free ball.

IMG_3341 (resized).jpg
#48 1 year ago
Quoted from Coindork:

left and right rollover lights

I do not have AC to them. I can jumper them, so the sockets are both good.
...

#49 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

I have it on 5-ball, I may move it to 3-ball since I can roll it twice...

I wasn't going to say anything but now that you've brought it up, I've always loved the look of this game but I think it's WAY too easy of a player. I'll be interested to see if you come up with any playfield tweaks to make it more challenging.

#50 1 year ago

Those 2 lamps are driven from the change relay. Check the switch there that is Br-R on one side and yellow on the other.
pasted_image (resized).png

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Classic Game Rooms
$ 159.00
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 24.95
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Hookedonpinball.com
$ 1,000.00
Playfields
Pinball Playfields
$ 12.99
Cabinet - Decals
Bent Mods
$ 79.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 5.00
Playfield - Decals
Doc's Pinball Shop
$ 269.00
Cabinet - Other
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
$ 399.99
Cabinet - Toppers
COINTAKER.COM
$ 369.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
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