Another grail has arrived... with a smile on!

I just had a 1980 Stern Seawitch shipped across the US using STI and all they messed up was a twisted ankle on the front right leg. I'm a lucky guy, right?

It's a REAL GRADE A beater. I'll be replacing everything but the boards, the harness, the displays, and the cabinet. I'll be getting a BG and PF from John G. in Halifax, CA.

I'll write up a more interesting story here when I have time. Just wanted to get this process started. I have *lots* of work ahead before this machine is a respectable player.

Boards seem to work well. Connector issues for sure. Crispy Connectors abound. Missing a few pieces on the top side. Some broken brackets on the left orbit (I imagine this is very common with SW)

I'm going to guess this is a 60-hour shop job BEFORE doing the PF swap. I'll focus on that until Xmas, at which point I hope to begin and complete my HS PF swap over a week-long break.

-mof

Next post(s) will host all the "BEFORE" pics...

-----------------------
PARTS/GRADES (6) overall
-----------------------
* Apron: 7: has a few scratches that are "character flaws", not worth a replacement.
* Boards: 8: Everything seems to be working.
* Body: 5: pretty good shape. Lots of bondo/sanding in the future and repaint/stencil
* Backglass: 6: good restore candidate, otherwise need a new one from John G.
* Displays: 9: nearly perfect
* Inner Cab: 7: No holes, but I'm concerned about some stains that there may be some soft spots, haven't pried in there just yet.
* Legs/"Feet": 6: Legs are ok, but everything is rusted stuck.
* Plastics: 7: has a decent set on there, but I have a replacement set in the wings.
* Playfield: 4: warped, stabbed, planked, looking forward to the replacement.
* Shooter and Assembly: 5: Already replaced it with a new modfather shooter.
* Side Rails: 7: Flat and clean, no major bumps, a little rust
* Transformer: 8: Looks good.

PROBLEMS
1. replace a few controlled lamp sockets (hopefully it's just the sockets, and no transistors)

COMPLETE (34) -- (Goal is 1 hour per day... Currently on pace.)
* new rubber kit (X)
* install new modfather shooter (.3)
* plastic set bought from PP (X)
* playfield paid for from John G. (arrives Q1, 2015)
* clean and wax old PF (.5)
* clean and wax cabinet (.5)
* check rectifier TP's (.1)
* add beer strip to LDB (.1)
* install 3-prong plug (.2)
* vacuum/clean inside of cabinet (1.3)
* wiped upper inside of cabinet (.3)
* de-rusting lockdown bar (.2)
* de-rusting transformer board screws (.2)
* flipper buttons cleaned, brackets buffed (.5)
* clean and derust LDBR (1.8)
* re-pin and install new rectifier board (3.0)
* remove, clean, sand, varnish transformer board (1.5)
* install missing bracket (.2)
* swap out all old rubber post caps with new ones (for now) (.3)
* replaced all 44s in the PF with clean 44s for max brightness (1)
* replaced all 4 flipper assemblies, and cleaned 4 flippers (6)
* replace all BG bulbs with 47's (.5)
* set dipswitches for extra balls, and 3-ball play (.5)
* install new flipper button switches (1.5)
* fix chatter in slings with new switches (3.0)
* clean up instruction cards and print them nicely (2.0)
* polish spinner bracket and shooter lane ball stop (1)
* replace missing side carriage bolt (X)
* replace some starpost with blue starposts (.2)
* fix the upper left bracket (1.3)
* install ~50 new blue star posts (2.0)
* install bulb condoms on the three line-of-sight bulbs (X)
* install new legs/new levelers (polish leg bolts, and level it) (1.0)
* fix sticky drop target(s) by replacing drop springs (.5)
* cleaned up switch and re-soldered wires to remove intermittent behavior (.5)
* check all fuses (for good measure) (X)
* replace 2 big caps on solenoid board (for good measure) (1) [34]

TO DO LIST
HIGH

LOW
* power check (rectifier, lamp board, MPU, etc) (for good measure)
* driver board ground mods https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing#post-592756
* disassemble, clean up and rebuild pop bumpers
* clean and polish PF glass back channel
* polish BG channels and add tape to improve grip
* remove all carriage bolts from coin door, and polish them
* remove and de-rust the coin flap
* remove and polish orbit stainless steel parts
* clean all components under the apron
* replace a few ball guides with chipped chrome (piano wire)
* create and install "S" plastic -- https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/any-seawitch-fans-on-pinside/page/2#post-1974933

SOMEDAY
* disassemble and clean all three sets of drops
* full PF swap (80+ hours)
* clean up the coin door

GOAL: Keep total parts investment to under $2000 (not including base game cost). (Current plan $1185 short term.)

BOUGHT ($1315)
* John G's PF ($500)
* Seawitch Plastic Set ($100)
* new rectifier board ($110)
* new 3-prong plug ($5)
* new post caps ($5)
* new flipper rebuild kits from PBL with new coils ($190)
* new pop bumper skirts (yellow) ($10)
* new leg levelers ($5)
* 4 new bats +shafts (4x$3.75) ($15)
* new caps ($10)
* new legs ($75)
* new sling switches ($10)
* lamp socket replacements (50x$1) ($50)
* new flipper rubbers ($5)
* new drop target springs ($15)
* ~50 blue star posts ($35)
* new John G. BG ($175)

SHOPPING LIST ($45)
* new connectors ($10)
* (reserved $35)

SOMEDAY ($580)
* repaint cabinet + stencils ($500)
* new target set ($55) (might skip)
* scan and clean and redo some of the old school signs inside cabinet. (esp the fuse one)
* find new star targets ($25)

-mof

Pre-loading pics in the sunshine...
Enjoy...
-mof

201410-SW-SW.JPG201410-SW-PF.JPG201410-SW-PF-under.JPG201410-SW-inside.JPG201410-SW-inside-head.JPG201410-SW-inside-cab.JPG201410-SW-CD.JPG201410-SW-cab5.JPG201410-SW-cab4.JPG201410-SW-cab3.JPG201410-SW-cab2.JPG201410-SW-cab1.JPG201410-SW-BG.JPG

I am looking for a missing piece, I'll make a new post about it later...
-mof

missing part.jpg

He makes 'em from scratch.
-mof

Seawitch has a great playfield design.
This game is exactly what I expected.
It's a drop target bash fest. Fast action.

Oh if *only* it had voice and a 2-ball multiball. It would be even more epic...

Most bulbs are working on the PF. A few crap sockets, a few bulbs to replace...

Here's the official "BEFORE" picture to compare 100 hours from now...
=)

-mof
201410-SW-night.jpg

I'd like to thank modfather for the shooter rod that REALLY matches this game. I got the shooter rod "before" I had a lead on a game, and so his artwork was the inspiration to find and build a game around the shooter rod.
-mof

201410-SW-modfather.jpg201410-SW-modfather2.jpg

It sounds like Steve Young has the part for $6.50 -- I'll find out soon enough!
=)
-mof

Wow... this SW is the Krispy Kreme Connector darling of my collection. I'll be learning how to repin/replace connectors like a champ this time around, no option. Hehe...

Now the GI in the backbox is working, and it's out in the PF -- bad connectors anyone?

-mof

201410-SW-toasty-rectifier.jpg

Holy smokes, this old PF has a some warp...
I'll need more than a new PF -- I'll need new rails for it... yikes.
-mof

Rectifier board TP values check out: (T3, a lil high)

TP1: 5.85vdc
TP2: 245vdc
TP3: 13.85vdc (13.3 should be max, so a lil high)
TP4: 7.22vac
TP5: 46.6vdc

-mof

It's warped and planked and has a hole through it where the pointed arm prop goes into the shallow circle of thin wood. I'll show close ups later tonight.

Easy decision. I made the decision before I even found a SW. =)
-mof

_{Post edited by mof: Oh, I see you were askin' the other guy, haha - np...}

Mighty generous of you.

For the time being, I just need the two parts listed in the second post.
-mof

I'm considering touching up the blue by hand and mylaring them... They are just fine for now. I'll take that into account. Thanks man...
-mof

There's another Seawitch for sale out in the USA somewhere. Keep looking!
-mof

Yes on the missing part on the right.
No on replacing the left orbit guide with brackets.
-mof

It's not pinporn, but it must be done.
Tree Prong.
-mof

201410-SW-3-prong.jpg

Last night, spent an hour, and vacuumed the cab again, and wiped down every part, and every wire, to help diminish the "old school smell" and reduce that "not so fresh feeling"...

Look forward to giving it a good whiff tonight and seeing how much smell has been reduced.
-mof

I don't mind a little "old school smell" -- but this one was a bit overpowering when I got it. Just need it to calm down a little.
-mof

It smells much better now. Good hour of cleaning spent. It's past the "whoa..." stage, and it's more in the "hey, it smells like 1980 in there" stage...

-mof

* Transformer board out
* Derusting screws
* Lockdown bar receiver off, handle removed -- overnight in evaporust
* more cables wiped down
* inside of cabinet cleaned a bit
* flipper buttons cleaned, brackets buffed to a shine

It's actually a respectable inner cab now. This transformer is a clean one.
-mof

201410-SW-nice-xformer.jpg201410-SW-flipper-buttons.jpg

Yeah, I finally got sick of wondering once I got to 8 per power strip. It saves me time, that's for sure.
-mof

TY! First-time through cleanup is a grind, but it must be done.
-mof

Tonight, after returning from a pub and watching the Giants lose with some friends, I let those worries melt away with a little lockdown bar receiver de-rusting, sanding, cleaning, buffing, and more cleaning...

The results should payoff and last a while...
-mof

BEFORE
201410-SW-LDBR-before.jpg

AFTER
201410-SW-LDB-buffed.jpg
201410-SW-LDB-handle.jpg

3 hours and 50+ wires later, I have all the male molex pins ready to wire up J1,J2,J3 on the new rectifier board.

I decided to remove the transformer board and I'll sand it down nicely before hooking everything back up. I'll enjoy that on Sunday.

-mof

Transformer board sanded. Sprayed a little varnish on there. Sanded. Resprayed. Feels good to the touch, with a touch of sheen on there. That was the goal -- to have something looking stock, but much easier to clean for the next 30 years...

-mof

201410-SW-xformer-board.jpg

Pin-Logic dual plug board
201410-SW-pin-logic.jpg

Tom finally answered my question from Saturday night. Now I have the information I need to re-wire my rectifier board. My advice: Be incredibly patient when communicating with Tom, like you would with your grandfather. Ask things 5+ times, be persistent, and you might finally get your answer within a few short days.

-mof

Here's the transformer board re-installed. A few of the wires were a bit short when re-wired using molex connectors, so I've got a few tight wires. I can live with that. My main goal, is knowing I have a very clean interior with solid power, with minimal "old school 80's smell."

-mof
BEFORE
201410-SW-xformer-before.jpg
AFTER
201410-SW-xformer-installed.jpg