Here are copies of my checklists from:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/post-purchase-checklist
and
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shop-job-master-checklist
1. Batteries: replace batteries and ensure battery holder has no cracks or broken contact points. Examine below the batteries and ensure there's no damage. (Eventually, get the batteries off the board completely)
2. Boards: ensure all the boards in the backbox are mounted and grounded with screws. Several reasons for this. (Frequently there are some missing, which can allow for more board flex when plugging connectors back in. More screws = better grounding.)
3. Coils: Check the resistance of each coil against the spec. Check each arm and make sure there's no resistance to movement. Check each lug and look for broken/loose wires.
4. Docs: Get your game's documentation at www.ipdb.org
5. Flipper Coils: check them against the specification for right type. Inspect flipper switches.
6. Fuses: Check fuses against the specification
7. ICs: Make sure no socketed ICs (integrated circuits -- "chips") are installed upside down
8. Loose Items: After setting up the pin, before you plug it in, check the cabinet and back box for fallen loose items, using a bright light -- make sure no small parts have been wedged in somewhere
9. Power Cord: Check the power cord for damage and fraying. Be sure there is an undamaged grounded three prong plug installed.
10. Serial Number: Record the serial number, take pictures for your records
11. Voltages: Check the voltages on the rectifier board (with connectors unplugged) -- see various troubleshooting guides to learn what voltages to expect
12. Wires: Check under the playfield and make sure no wires are getting eaten away by moving parts (sling shot wires, and wires along the edge of the playfield that can rub against the cabinet sides) Check the coin door for clipped/cut GI wires that may be dangling free.
13. Nut check: A loose or missing nut can mean undue stress going to a part that is loose on the playfield. Make sure all posts and pop assemblies are well secured. Review all nuts quickly. You will likely find a loose or missing one on your first pass.
14. Add Fuses: Perform this safety mod on all your Williams pins made from 1977-1987. -- add two fuses to the bridge rectifiers to prevent fire. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11 (see section 4.2 Power Problems) Also see vid1900's tutorial on how to set it up: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2
CABINET (15-20 hrs)
* Apron, and shooter gauge clean it (use a minimal gentle cleaner, don’t remove any paint)
* Cabinet protectors, Install the metal PBL ones
* Cabinet, clean and wax
* Cabinet, troll it for parts with magnetic wand, and vacuum/clean it out
* Cabinet wires, clean them for appearance
* Cabinet wires, ensure the 4 harnesses move freely when playfield is rotated up/down
* Coin door carriage bolts, remove and clean or polish them
* Coin door flap, remove and de-rust it (if stainless steel)
* Coin door, clean it (clean up old stickers if needed)
* Coin door, check wiring and make sure it's all zip-tied away from colliding with the lockdown bar arm
* Instruction Cards, make new ones, and ensure you have new acetate covers for them
* Inserts, ensure they are all flat. Adjust and re-glue any that are not
* Leg bolts, polish and reinstall
* Legs, de-rust, polish and wax. Install new leg levelers and floor sliders
* Legs, set pitch and level
* Lockdown bar, de-rust, clean and install new foam
* Lockdown bar receiver, de-rust, clean and reinstall it
* Paint pen black on inside and outside of cabinet, coin door, and head edges to clean up the look
* Playfield guides and edges inside the cabinet, clean/wax them for ease of movement
* Plug, ensure it’s in good shape, or replace
* Power, check all board Test Point’s (TPs) against spec
* Power switch, clean it and the bracket
* Shooter, ultrasonic, and re-install; replace 1" spring if needed to keep tip from scraping against PF
* Speaker panel trim, clean and polish it
* Slam Tilt (put rubber around for home use)
* Transformer board, remove and clean under it if possible, (sand and varnish if possible)
* Transformer brackets, ultrasonic and reassemble, clean up transformer
HEAD / BACKBOX (10-15 hrs)
* Backglass, add enough foam insulation material on the lamp board and display edges until the backglass cannot move once everything is properly in place. Test your work by rattling the head to simulate good nudging. Remove the tilt bob first, to TEST the system. The pin should be dead quiet when you rattle it.
* Backbox, clean and vacuum it
* Backbox, clean the lamp board, tumble and reassemble door brackets
* Backglass, clean both sides carefully
* Backglass, install new grip tape to better hold the backglass channel and trim
* Backglass channel, (if stainless steel) polish, clean or replace
* Battery pack, install remote one
* Connectors, check all connectors for burn, and replace connectors where needed
* Dipswitches, set them for freeplay, etc and/or set functions using coin door buttons
* Display test
* Displays, wipe down glass and rubber
* Displays, review displays for proper rubber gaskets and replace with strips of weather insulation to ensure the glass cannot touch the displays, either in game, or in transport
* Fuses, review and replace to spec
* Fuses, review recommended upgrades to improve safety and add a few if advised
* GI lamp board, get it to proper level and height so the displays line up properly through the backglass
* GI lamp board, remove all bulbs, and install only 10 (my personal taste)
* Grounding mods, study what can help the integrity of the machine, and perform them
* Power board, replace 30 year old caps
* Solder joints, check all boards for cold solder joints and reflow as needed
PLAYFIELD (15-30 hrs)
* Acorns, install new set to match plastics
* Alignment, review any shots that send balls at the flippers, and adjust alignments as necessary
* Ball stops (above saucers), ensure they are polished and clean and reinstalled
* Bulbs, install ultrasoniced 44s and a few LEDs where needed
* Drop target assemblies, molex, ultrasonic and reassemble
* Flipper assemblies, molex and rebuild
* Flipper button switches, replace with new parts
* Flipper buttons, ultrasonic and reinstall
* Flipper return frames, remove bells, and install new set from Cliffy, align for perfect ball flow (in both directions, this could require filling and drilling new holes)
* Inlane switches, set to perfection so that moonwalking is easy and likely. If you don't -- switches can trap balls, and steal flow from the game. Make sure they are low, AND register all hits
* Lamp (controlled) test
* Lamp sockets, review that all work properly, and clean/replace any that need it
* Plastic protectors, create new ones from scratch for vulnerable high use areas
* Plastics, clean and flatten
* Plastics, install new ones where needed, and verify you have the supporting hardware (correct posts, etc)
* Playfield brackets, (that seat in the lockdown bar) tumble and reassemble
* Playfield, clean and wax
* Pops, molex and rebuild all three and adjust all leaves to hair-trigger perfection, install new skirts and lamp sockets
* Posts, tighten, tumble and re-fill all stripped holes
* Posts, Ensure all posts are in the correct spot with healthy screws. Unscrew/screw them all back in
* Ramps, remove and clean and reassemble, polish or regain if stainless steel
* Rubber kit, install new one
* Shooter Lane protector, polish and reinstall
* Slings, tune properly
* Solenoid test
* Solenoid check, ensure they are all to spec (not too strong not too weak)
* Solenoid sleeves, review them all, and clean or replace them
* Spinner, paint strip it, spray paint it, bake on the paint, and reassemble it
* Star posts, clean and wax, and reinstall
* Stationary targets, ensure they have good foam behind them, clean, and adjust them
* Switch adjustments (1-2-3 lanes, inlanes, outlanes)
* Switch test (ensure CPU and Physical switches all register each switch)
* Wires, inspect EVERY wire termination for breaks/fraying and cut/re-solder as needed
San Francisco, CA
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