Never let a grand wizard mess with your balls...
Or do you...?

We may never know the story behind Stern's Nine Ball from 1980, but it involves... nine ball billiards, and a wizard with the ability to shoot electricity from his finger-tips.

After getting a 1980 Stern Seawitch, I realized I had made a mistake and should have pursued a few more early Sterns (Nine Ball and Big Game) before filling my space with Williams and Bally machines.

A local Pinsider sold me his Nine Ball to free up some space. It had been sitting in his barn for 12+ years, with no MPU. Hopefully we'll get the thing to boot up before sundown -- it's gonna be a long day, but I'm gonna do this right...

Guide:
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1678/Stern_1980_Nine_Ball_Manual.pdf
-mof

TOC:
Pin unload: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/resto-nine-ball-mof-20150405#post-2368910
Diagnosing bad displays: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/resto-nine-ball-mof-20150405#post-2369071

EVALUATION:
=====================
PARTS/GRADES (5.5) overall
=====================
* Apron: 5: has some noticeable bad scratches that are more than "character flaws", replacement would be "very nice to have"
* Boards: 5: Everything seems to be working. I had to drop an Alltek MPU in there. (I haven't flipped the boards over yet to check for hacks). SDB has lots of issues. Will be rebuilding the HV section.
* Cabinet: 6: pretty fair shape. Good paint, decent seams, good shine, but a few deep long scratches. bondo/sanding in the future and repaint/stencil no question, but I can definitely enjoy it in current state.
* Backglass: 6: has a blown out corner. I already have a repro from John G.
* Displays: 4: A few segments and age related issues. Not perfect, but hopefully usable.
* Inner Cab: 8: Looks very good at first glance
* Legs: 6: Legs are painted grey, original, and have some weird scratches on them. The paint has actually stopped all rust, which is a nice thing. Two feet are stuck in there good. (sigh)
* Plastics: 6: has a decent set on there, I don't think there are too many "see-through" holes. Just two breaks/cracked pieces. Definitely need to flatten them all.
* Playfield: 5: Considerable wear. Cupped inserts. A few raised arrow inserts. Haven't checked to see how flat it is just yet.
* Pop cap: 7: aged blue, but 100% intact. decent.
* Shooter and Assembly: 6: needs a good polish. beehive plastic is kinda faded.
* Side Rails: 6: Flat and clean, all nails present. Didn't see any major bumps at first glance. Left edge has a strange long scrape on it.
* Smells: 7: Smells like an old game without that "rat piss" or "mold" or "coackroach" flavor to it. Not too bad actually.
* Transformer: 7: Looks decent.

==================================
Shopping List ($1000 budget, $625 current, $375 left)
==================================

BIG ($400)
* Alltek MPU $225 (have em)
* Repro BG $175 (have em)

SMALL ($225)
* flipper bats $7 (have em)
* flipper rubbers $3 (have em)
* flipper switches $10 (have em)
* 2 new flipper mechs and solenoids $80 (have em)
* lamp sockets $10 (have em)
* leg levelers $5 (have em)
* rubber kit $15 (Marco)
* shooter spring $1 (have em)
* solenoid sleeves $10 (have em)
* solenoid caps from big-daddy $15 (have em)
* HV rebuild kit $20 (have em)
* Extra used drops $20 (have em)
* Stern sticker $5
* Credit sticker $5
* Backglass trim $20

=================================================
SOMEDAY $1080: New PF $500+, Stencils $150, Cab repaint $300, Plastics $130
=================================================

COMPONENT PROBLEMS
* can't add credits -- cut wires in coin door (temp fixed by setting up alltek mpu for freeplay - temp fix)
* displays go out within 30 seconds or so of turning on. (solved with HV kit and SDB repair)
* displays ghosting (solution in progress! -- game was sold with 6-digit displays, should be 7-digit x 4.)
* 8-drop assembly finicky (fixed)
* sound is fixed by hacking the 16-pin cable. (fixed)
* controlled lamps are weak / flickering (NEEDS WORK)
* a few bulbs/sockets out in 8-drop grid, and both 3-bulb wow areas (NEEDS WORK)
* spinner arm needs plastic bushing so it can't jam right and come out of the bracket holes. (fixed)
* spinner doesn't hang properly (fixed)
* multiball saucer eject rides too high (fixed)
* switch 4 isn't always registering. switch leaf was in backwards of course. (fixed)

PHYSICAL PROBLEMS
* loose neck in cabinet
* loose side rails
* deep groove in underside of playfield that catches on the playfield bracket (bondo this)
* loose playfield bracket (rear of game) (fixed)
* loose playfield bracket (front of game) (fixed)

COMPLETE (39.0 hrs)
* Cabinet vacuumed (.5)
* Cabinet and Head cleaned and waxed (1.5)
* Legs have new levelers (1.0)
* Game pitched and leveled (.5)
* Fuses, review and replace to spec (.5)
* Power checks (1.0)
* Bolts de-rusted and cleaned (.5)
* Cabinet wires, ensure the 4 harnesses move freely when playfield is rotated up/down (.0)
* Shooter, dremel, ultrasonic, and re-assemble it (1)
* GI lamp board, remove all bulbs, clean them, and clean out all sockets (.5)
* PF controlled lamps, install new bulbs where needed to see whether it's socket or bulb issues (1)
* Repaired stuck solenoid arm in multiball eject (1)
* Solenoid Driver Board, replace 30 year old caps (1)
* Solenoid Driver Board, added 3 ground mods to reverse side (.5)
* HV Caution Shield - hand made with new sticker (1)
* Acorns, install temp rubber set during shop stage (.25)
* Plastics, cleaned with dish soap, warm water and a rag (.25)
* Rubbers replaced (most of them) (.25)
* Posts, tighten, tumble and re-fill all stripped holes (.25)
* Playfield, vacuum, brush, clean and wax (1)
* Star Posts, clean, and reinstall (.5)
* Dipswitches, set them for freeplay, etc and/or set functions using coin door buttons (.25)
* Removed, cleaned and re-installed bank of 8-drops (2.25)
* Replace spinner switch wire with a real one (.5)
* Troubleshoot sound problem, and solve it (1.5)
* Plug - replace (.5)
* Display test (.5) - starting to figure out what all the issues are
* Spinner, polish and lubricate with silicon (1/2 drop) (.5)
* Spinner, made and added spacer, flipped leaf over, gets 40 spins now (1)
* Screwed in playfield bracket better, front and rear (.0)
* Switch test pass (.25)
* Solenoid test pass (.25)
* Flipper assemblies, molex and rebuild (3)
* GI lamp board, remove all bulbs, and install only 10 (my personal taste) (.25)
* POP sleeve changed (.25)
* Apron, and shooter gauge clean it (use a minimal gentle cleaner, don’t remove any paint) (2)
* Fix drop bank (1)
* Fix wrong post (.5)
* Fix switch 4 (.5)
* Legs, Install floor sliders (.25)
* Switch adjustments, 2nd multiball switch needs a lil help, switch 4 in horseshoe (.75)
* Bulbs, install ultrasoniced 44s (.5)
* Solenoid sleeves, review them all, and clean or replace them (.5)
* Slings, ultrasonic, re-sleeve, and tune properly (1)
* Cabinet Power switch, clean it and the bracket (.5)
* Pop, rebuild and adjust all leaves to hair-trigger perfection (.25)
* Flipper button switches, set right # of spacers, replace with new parts (1)
* Flipper buttons, ultrasonic and reinstall (.75) (34.5)
* SDB repaired with HV kit (4.5) (39.0)

BACKBOX (8 hrs)
* Backbox, clean the lamp board, tumble and reassemble door brackets
* Backglass, clean both sides carefully
* Backglass, install new grip tape to better hold the backglass channel and trim
* Backglass channel, replace
* Connectors, check all connectors for burn (rectifier board)
* Displays, wipe down glass and rubber
* Fuses, review recommended upgrades to improve safety and add a few if advised
* Power, check all board Test Point’s (TPs) against spec
* Solder joints, check all boards for cold solder joints and reflow as needed

CABINET (14 hrs)
* Cabinet protectors, Install the metal PBL ones
* Cabinet wires, clean them for appearance
* Coin door carriage bolts, remove and clean or polish them
* Coin door flap, remove and de-rust it (if stainless steel)
* Coin door, clean it (clean up old stickers if needed)
* Instruction Cards, make new ones, and ensure you have new acetate covers for them
* Inserts, ensure they are all flat. Adjust and re-glue any that are not (2)
* Lockdown bar, de-rust, clean and install new foam
* Lockdown bar receiver, de-rust, clean and reinstall it
* Playfield guides and edges inside the cabinet, clean/wax them for ease of movement
* Transformer board, remove and clean under it if possible, (sand and varnish if possible)
* Transformer brackets, ultrasonic and reassemble, clean up transformer

PLAYFIELD (7 hrs)
* Drop target assemblies (2 of 3), molex, ultrasonic and reassemble
* Lamp (controlled) test (wow target set is now out, wasn't before)
* Lamp sockets, review that all work properly, and clean/replace any that need it (many are bad)
* Plastic protectors, create new ones from scratch for vulnerable high use areas (one plastic broke)
* Plastics flatten
* Playfield brackets, (that seat in the lockdown bar) tumble and reassemble
* Rubber kit, install new one (1/2 done)
* Shooter Lane protector, polish and reinstall
* Solenoid check, ensure they are all to spec

Unloading on Sunday. What a glorious day...
-mof

201504_Nine-unloading1.jpg201504_Nine-unloading2.jpg

LEGS OFF. Get up on the cart for your Cabinet inspection...
201504_Nine-dirty-feet.jpg
201504_Nine-body1.jpg201504_Nine-body2.jpg201504_Nine-body5.jpg201504_Nine-body6.jpg201504_Nine-body7.jpg201504_Nine-body8.jpg201504_Nine-body9.jpg

From what I can tell, the neck on this thing is dubious. I can pull on the panel with the 4 threaded holes in it for the head bolts, and it moves. Eventually, I'll need to learn to lock this thing all in with nails/glue or whatever is required. For now, I want to get things cleaned up so I can begin to run checks before trying to power it up.

-mof

201504_Nine-body3.jpg
201504_Nine-body4.jpg

The inside of the cabinet isn't bad -- has a coin box in here, but I wonder if it's original or what.
I "think" the entire harness is in here. fingers crossed.
Coin door is missing a solenoid, and has a few cut wires. Oh boy.
Rectifier board looks "ok"
-mof

201504_Nine-cabinet-coin-door.jpg
201504_Nine-cabinet1.jpg201504_Nine-cabinet2.jpg201504_Nine-cabinet3.jpg201504_Nine-cabinet4.jpg201504_Nine-cabinet5.jpg201504_Nine-rectifier-check.jpg

Under the playfield looks "ok" -- I found that I was unable to move a few of the solenoid arms... This has been sitting a LONG time... lots of work to do here.
-mof

201504_Nine-under1.jpg201504_Nine-under2.jpg
201504_Nine-crap-solenoid-arm.jpg

Outside the head, and inside the head...

Inside the head...

Boards look "decent". I haven't flipped 'em over to see what lurks on the backsides.
Wait a sec -- what's going on with the sound board ribbon cables. Oh boy...
I'm not a display guy just yet -- so not sure the condition of these things...
-mof

201504_Nine-head-before.jpg
201504_Nine-head2.jpg
201504_Nine-solenoid-board.jpg
201504_Nine-lamp-board.jpg
201504_Nine-sound-board.jpg201504_Nine-sound-ribbon-cables-with-hacks.jpg201504_Nine-inside-head.jpg201504_Nine-inside-head2.jpg

201504_Nine-backbox-instructions.jpg

201504_Nine-display1.jpg201504_Nine-display2.jpg201504_Nine-display3.jpg

Here's the playfield. Lovely touch up work, and some bizarre fluids filling in some damage. Oh brother...
Apron has some good scratches on it.
Lower PF has some blue paint spilled all over it -- that will be gone soon.
Two broken plastics.
But hey, a decent lockdown bar and receiver !!! (Gotta look for the little things!)
-mof

201504_Nine-PF-upper.jpg
201504_Nine-PF-middle.jpg201504_Nine-PF-lower.jpg201504_Nine-PF-lower2.jpg201504_Nine-PF-damage1.jpg201504_Nine-PF-broken-plastic.jpg201504_Nine-PF-apron-scratched.jpg
201504_Nine-body-lockdown-set.jpg
// Error: Image 387398 not found //// Error: Image 387396 not found //

WTF POST MOVE
// Error: Image 387399 not found //

Put the head on this beast, and review the harness.
Looks good. No burnt connectors that I can see.
-mof

201504_Nine-harness-out.jpg

I decided to start by getting the Alltek installed. It's nice to have one new MPU on hand for each manufacturer, since you can dial them up for any title. This board does 90 titles I think...
-mof
201504_Nine-alltek-installed.jpg

Prep the patient:
1. Vacuum everything
2. Clean and wax the body and head
3. Prep leg and head bolts, and the legs and "feet" (first evaporust THEN ultrasonic)

-mof

201504_Nine-body-cleaned-and-waxed1.jpg201504_Nine-body-cleaned-and-waxed2.jpg201504_Nine-body-cleaned-and-waxed3.jpg201504_Nine-body-cleaned-and-waxed4.jpg

CLEAN and CLEANER
201504_Nine-bolts-after-derust.jpg201504_Nine-bolts-after-ultrasonic.jpg

SHINY HEAD (with nice scratches)
201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-side.jpg201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-side2.jpg201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-side3.jpg201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-side4.jpg201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-top.jpg

201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed.jpg

The shooter was sticky AND the rod was stuck, so I dremeled off the extra material on the tip and got it out. I had to actually buzz the area where the e-clip is secured as well. That lip was catching on the inside of the bee hive plastic.
-mof
STUCK
201504_Nine-stuck-shooter.jpg
FIXED
201504_Finished-shooter.jpg

Next up is to follow the repair guides step by step and make sure we're seeing the right voltages...
We also put together a nice checklist here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/post-purchase-checklist

1. Check for low ohms on solenoids
2. Check rectifier board voltages
3. Check fuses
4. Check solenoid board voltages
5. Review the power cord
6. Review all socketed chips to ensure none are turned upside down
(anything else?)

-mof

I started with the solenoids. They all looked to be to spec, and measured with plenty of resistance:
-mof

1. Check for low ohms on solenoids

Coin lockout, C-36-5300, (don’t see a solenoid for it)
Drop Target (1), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (2), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (3), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (4), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (5), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (6), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (7), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (8), B-24-1600, 11.5
Drop Target (3R), B-27-2300, 32.5
Drop Target (3C), B-27-2300, 32.5
Flipper (L), J-25-475/34-4500, 6.0 (outside 2)
Flipper (R), J-25-475/34-4500, 33.0 (outside 2)
Lane Kicker, J-28-2300, 33.5
Outhole Kicker, J-26-1200, 10.5
Slingshot (L), J-26-1600, 18.5
Slingshot (R), J-26-1600, 10.5
Stand-up-target, J-26-1200, 10.5
Thumper Bumper, J-26-1200, 10.5

Next up was to hook up the solenoid board and review the TP's there:

2. Check rectifier board test points

EXPECT
TP1 (on AS2518-18) = 5.4 volts DC +/- .8 volts (4.6 to 6.2 volts). Fuse F1, bridge BR1. Used to power the "switched illumination" (feature lamps).
TP1 (on AS2518-49 & -54) = 6.5 volts DC (5.8 to 7.2 volts). Fuse F1, voltage regulator RP1 and RP2. Used to power the "switched illumination" (feature lamps).
TP2 = 230 volts DC, +/- 27 volts (203 to 257 volts). Fuse F2, diodes CR1 to CR4. Used to power the score displays.
TP3 = 12 volts DC (11 to 16 volts). Fuse F3, bridge BR2. Used to power the regulated +5 volts DC for the game's logic circuits.
TP4 = 7.3 volts AC, +/- 1.0 volts (6.3 to 8.3 volts). Fuse F5. Used to power the general illumination.
TP5 = 43 volts DC, +/- 5.4 volts (47.6 to 48.4 volts). Fuse F4, bridge BR3. Used to power all the coils.

ACTUAL
TP1,4.9vdc
TP2,200vdc
TP3,14.0vdc
TP4,7.0vac
TP5,43.0vdc

3. Check rectifier board Fuses

The 20amp fuse was a 25amp — oops! Caught one… HAHA !

-mof

4. solenoid board, TPs

J1,J2,J3,J4,J5 plugged in and nothing else.

(no load)

TP1,5.35
TP2,200
TP3,5.1
TP4,256 <— seems a bit high.
TP5,14.5

Everything is checking out ok...
Its time to plug it in and pray...
-mof

Day 1 wrap up...

Houston, we have lift off !!!
I put in 3 balls, and played a game. Oh boy, this is going to be quite a project. LOTS to do... She's a limping fawn right now for sure.
Bottom Line: I am going to learn a LOT giving this thing its sea legs.
All in a day's work.
-mof

Damage Report:
* can't add credits -- cut wires in coin door (will put Alltek in free play mode for now (no max credits #20)
* multiball eject stuck (hard to move manually, solenoid arm barely moves, I suspect WD40)
* displays go out within 30-60 seconds of a game running
* sound is (mostly) out
* bank of 8 does not reset during a game (only between balls)
* half the controlled lights are out (bulbs)
* solenoid board says "3-4 flippers only" -- do we care?
* shooter rod (was) stuck in housing
* loose neck in cabinet -- glass won't slide in unless you tilt the head back (uggg)
* loose side rails

201504_Nine-flash-pf-day1.jpg

Day 2:
Replace the caps on the solenoid board for good measure...
-mof

Here's a shot of the once-crispy rectifier board. I see some missing wires and pins. I sure hope the hacker hard-wired them on the back side. Oh electrical tape! That's always a good sign.
-mof

201504_Nine-rectifier-board-once-crispy.jpg

Ha, no that one I just unplugged...
(Yes I do have a lot of "fun" coming my way on this one.)
-mof

Day #2: I replaced the caps on the solenoid board for good measure. I was pleased to already have the kit here. I always try to keep one kit on hand for the "next one" that comes along.

TIP: Always buy TWO when you get an affordable repair kit of any sort...

TP2 and TP4 still give the same readings of 200 and 256.

I noticed some work on the back side of the board. Is that factory, or recommended mods? Almost just looks like replacing traces.

-mof

201504_Nine-solenoid-fix-complete.jpg201504_Nine-solenoid-fix.jpg201504_Nine-solenoid-hope-these-are-good-mods.jpg

Day #3:
Tinkered a bit.
Replaced all bulbs in the head, to get a sense of the bulb/socket issues. The backbox GI sockets are not rotating, which is nice. I took a lamp cleaning tool and a drill and went to work on all 40+ of the sockets, and it may have helped a bit.
Replaced most controlled lamps under the PF. I noticed the controlled lamps are weak, (adding new problem to solve)
Removed, cleaned, added a new sleeve and re-installed the multiball eject kicker.
-mof

Component Problem
Displays turn off after ~30 seconds.
Looking for help in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-displays-turn-off-after-30-seconds
-mof

Thanks Brian!
-mof

Yeah, no idea why I said that -- I feel much more like a 'dog-rescuer' in this hobby. Getting dogs out of abusive homes, and giving them love in my home.
-mof

Spent a few hours babying the solenoid driver board. I don't have a repair kit on hand, I'll have to order one.

1. I did the 3 grounding mods
2. I replaced the big caps
3. I reflowed the entire HV section
4. Measured some components to look for parts operating out of spec

-mof

Did a few of the recommended grounding upgrades to the Solenoid Driver Board.
-mof
201504_Nine-SW-SDB-ground-upgrades.jpg

I went off on a quick tangent and matched my HV Caution plastic on my Seawitch Stern SDU-100 SDB. I made two plastics with 1/16" thick lexan, and put a few tools to work, and then printed out a few labels on a new HP printer.

I could have bought them pre-made and saved a ton of time (and cleanup), but I thought it would be fun to try making them myself ONCE -- it's certainly gratifying each time I look at the finished product. It also makes me appreciate buying them pre-made. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/M-1837

Really put a few tons of dust on the belt sander. Clean up on isle 1!

An hour of fun.
-mof

PRINT LABELS
201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-labels.jpg

GRAB A TOOL AND CUT
201504_Nine-cutout-tool.jpg201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-first-cut.jpg

SAND TO A NICE RECTANGLE, HAND SAND AND DRILL HOLES
201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-yellow-and-clear.2.jpg201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-yellow-and-clear.jpg201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-yellow-and-clear3.jpg

ADD LABELS AND ENJOY THE BACKUP STOCK
201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-extras.jpg201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-installed.jpg

WTF HAPPA TO MY BELT SANDER - LEXAN SNOW
201504_Nine-belt-sander-needs-cleanup.jpg

Did some more chores around the house, and then treated myself to a playfield tear down, cleaning, wax, startpost cleaning, rubber swap, to see what the game should play like...
-mof

RUBBER MAP
201504_Nine-playfield-clean1.jpg

PLASTIC FIX (LET THE SUPER GLUE SET 20 MINUTES FIRST)
201504_Nine-playfield-plastic-fix.jpg

ULTRASONIC'D ALL SCREWED IN STAR POSTS
201504_Nine-playfield-starposts-ready-for-battle.jpg

OF COURSE SLING SWITCHES ARE INSTALLED WRONG
201504_Nine-playfield-switches-backwards1.jpg201504_Nine-playfield-switches-backwards2.jpg

CLEAN, WAXED AND HAPPIER
201504_Nine-playfield-ready1.jpg201504_Nine-playfield-ready2.jpg

So WTF is up with some of the star posts in Nine Ball with the hex bolts? You turn them and they don't unscrew. I look under the playfield, and they look like the end of a carriage bolt. Who thought this was a good idea? Why are they in Nine Ball, and NOT in Seawitch? Where should I lock in and hold the bolt, in order to turn the nut? Bizarre.

So many questions...

-mof

eh?
-mof

ok - link me which posts you ordered, I'm all for upgrading the mechs to make the game more serviceable.
-mof

BTW -- the faceted star posts in this game are the coolest ever. Why am I only seeing them on this game, and not Seawitch for example? They have no grooves for wax to get caught in. Very elegant.
-mof

I dug into the MASSIVE BANK of 8 drop targets. Started disassembling and taking pics.

Well. Well. Well...

I think I see part of the problem here...

-mof

DID I MENTION BIG?
201504_Nine-8-drops-big-momma.jpg

TGIM (Thank god it's molexed)
201504_Nine-8-drops-is-molexed.jpg

SWITCHES INSTALLED BACKWARDS? OF COURSE.
201504_Nine-8-drops-more-backwards-switches.jpg

MASSIVE COIL !
201504_Nine-8-drops-monster-coil.jpg

BROKEN WIRE - OOPS
201504_Nine-8-drops-1.jpg

IS THERE A MISSING COIL OR IS THAT STOCK?
201504_Nine-8-drops-big-momma.jpg

201504_Nine-8-drops-missing-coil-or-not.jpg

I guess there should only be 7 of the tiny .../3400 coils, per page 15 of the guide. Cool...
-mof

Does anyone know what the size of that coil sleeve is inside that monster coil? I'll ask Marco since they sell the coil...
-mof

Oh, I'm confused I thought you were swapping out the machine screw posts that go into the red plastic star posts... (that's what I was complaining about.)
-mof

2 hours of cleaning and re-assembling the drop target assembly. What a piece of work that beast is.
Replaced the 2 sets of 11 lights next to the 8-bank with new bulbs.

FINALLY got to play a game and witness earning the special and capturing balls for multiball. I couldn't do any of that before with a broken wire and switch not set up correctly. It's still a finicky B/S drop target mess, but it's kinda working now. Hey, at least the entire assembly is cleaned up.

-mof

Next up -- swapping sound cables and troubleshooting the lack of all sound.
Can I swap sound boards between Nine Ball and Seawitch? Are the unique sound chips on the sound board, or the MPU?
-mof

Sound problem solved. It was simply the 16pin sound cable. It had 2 pins disconnected. I hacked in two small wires into the system and it worked. Only strange this is that now the start up tones are lower in pitch than expected -- but game play sounds normal as far as I can tell...

Found a spare part in a box from an old spinner (thanks pinballrus) to replace the homemade spinner hanging switch wire on there.

-mof

I'll take some pics tomorrow night -- I'd like to identify the spinner that's on there right now. Something tells me it's not stock -- but the length of the spinner arms are both correct.

Next up: Switch tests and solenoid tests. (or troubleshoot the displays). and 3-prong plug.
-mof

As always, tyvm.
I wonder what the "S" is for -- what could it mean? Stern???
-mof

3-prong plug installed. (rough night)
-mof

Display ghosting problem solved thanks to this article:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-stern-meteor-ghosting-displays?tu=schudel5

My game accidentally came with a 4-set of 6-digit displays, doh!
-mof

New problem to solve, spinner doesn't hang properly.
Looking for help here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spinner-balance
-mof

I made myself a 1/16" polycarbonate spinner spacer to prevent the spinner from jamming right and knocking itself out of the spinner frame. (rather unique to this hanging spinner over the PF format)

This one won't work for the function required. I made the through hole too big. I'll try again later...

-mof
201504_Nine-spinner-washer.jpg201504_Nine-spinner-washer2.jpg

Spinner rotation alignment problem! It was definitely a lack of tension by the switch below. It never pulls down enough to bring the spinner back to a consistent short end down position. I'll try McGyvering something before I buy a new switch.

-mof

I nailed it.
* Added tension by adding a part from a EOS switch to increase tension
* reversed the leaf that was installed backwards
* wrapped the leaf material backwards around the hanging arm (through the playfield)

1. it now scores ALL spins
2. I can get about 40 revolutions on a good spin (on my other games I can get as good as 60 spins)
-mof

(pics later)

That's what I was thinking originally...
-mof

Try #2 at a spinner washer came out AWESOME. I made the through hole much smaller, so that the spacer would NOT trickle back down, and lose its purpose in life.

Now I'm 100% confident the spacer will lock and hold in place and prevent the spinner from jamming right and out of position on a strong hit.

201504_Nine-awesome-washer1.jpg201504_Nine-awesome-washer2.jpg201504_Nine-awesome-solution.jpg

Added a support from a bag of used EOS switch supplies to keep tension in the system to try and lure the spinner to a more vertical position. Works great, but the angle of the spinner isn't perfect, but it's consistent, and the ball strikes are resulting in a good little spin, so it's a big improvement. The important thing is the leaf was flipped around to where it should be, and now the scoring is great.

-mof

201504_Nine-better-rein2.jpg201504_Nine-better-spinner-reinforcements.jpg201504_Nine-better-spinner1.jpg201504_Nine-better-spinner2.jpg201504_Nine-better-spinner3.jpg201504_Nine-better-spinner4.jpg

This week:
* remove big-drops AGAIN and try and get them all to work properly (I have a few backup targets from a Big Game now)
* clean flipper buttons
* replace flipper button switches
* replace flipper assemblies when they come on Monday from Terry !
* fine tune pop (swap out sleeve)
-mof

2 hours well spent while the Giants shut down the Dodgers behind Bumgarner.
One of my favorite parts of a shop job is the apron and the ball eject area.
-mof

BEFORE -- untouched for 35 years maybe? Find me some Goo Gone for the apron!
201504_Nine-apron-before1.jpg
201504_Nine-apron-before2.jpg

AFTER -- I used 0000 steel wool and water to get 35 years of gunk and crud off the metal pieces, then I buffed them on the wheel, then ran 'em through the ultrasonic, then waxed 'em. I just focused on the inside part that touches the ball. My goal is to create a CRISP loud pop when the ball is served up. It should sound like a new game.

201504_Nine-after1.jpg201504_Nine-after2.jpg201504_Nine-after3.jpg201504_Nine-after4.jpg

Time to move a post!
Some idiot didn't have the ability to punch a broken post back out through the PF and install the post right back in the same hole. Instead, he chose to create a new hole in a bizarre spot.
Damn hacks.
-mof

201504_Nine-wrong-hole.jpg
201504_Nine-hole-filled.jpg201504_Nine-hole-filled2.jpg201504_Nine-hole-filled3.jpg

Time to attack the drops.
I picked up some used Big Game drops off ebay for $20. Good thing I had him ship the pins and arms of the drops -- look at the hack included in my original set!
Which pin doesn't belong ???
Also, one of the arms got really worn. I had to take the dremel to it and remove all that extra material that could eat against the plastic.
-mof
201504_Nine-used-drops1.jpg
201504_Nine-used-drops2.jpg201504_Nine-used-drops3.jpg201504_Nine-used-drops4.jpg

HOLY CATS!
The drops play GREAT now. I found out why they weren't dropping all the way down (my mistake on not putting the lower rod in correctly on one side. They REALLY all snap well now. I'm very happy.
-mof

Switch 4 isn't always registering. I'll flip over the switch that's installed backwards (like every other leaf on the game)
-mof

201504_Nine-switch4-backwards.jpg201504_Nine-switch4-backwards2.jpg201504_Nine-switch4-backwards3.jpg

Quick question, what happens if I keep restoring this game?

SCORES GO UP

"The more you restore, the better the score!" (c) -mof

Previous HS was like 1,080,000.

I'm hitting the 30-hour mark, and that's typically where a game really comes together in terms of playability. I need to adjust the pop better, and we are there.

201504_Nine-the-more-you-restore-the-better-the-score.jpg

Three important deliveries arrived:

PBL: flipper kits
Big-Daddy Enterprises: HV SBD rebuild kit (lower right)
Docent Electronics: New Sound-MPU ribbon cables

I'm so grateful to be restoring pinball machines in 2015. Using the internet to order parts, and having great vendors make this so easy.

-mof

201504_Nine-Big-daddy-order2.jpg
201504_Nine-Docent-electronics-order.jpg201504_Nine-thankyou-terry.jpg

Slings could be more responsive. They are tuned well. It's time to re-sleeve the solenoids, and clean the heck out of 'em.
-mof

DIRTY SIDE
201504_Nine-sling-clean.jpg
CLEAN SIDE
201504_Nine-sling-dirty.jpg
AFTER CLEANING
201504_Nine-sling-ultrasonic.jpg
BUFF THE TIP
201504_Nine-nce-polish.jpg

I like to have all my cabinet power switches in the same orientation. Pull towards you to power on, not left, not right not back.

Of course, any small metal brackets...

MUST.
BE.
BUFFED.

-mof

BEFORE
201504_Nine-light-switch-before.jpg
AFTER
201504_Nine-light-switch-after.jpg
INSTALLED
201504_Nine-light-switch-installed.jpg

Should I clean up these flipper buttons and switches? You be the judge.
-mof

201504_Nine-button-gross!.jpg201504_Nine-button-gross!2.jpg201504_Nine-old-switch1.jpg201504_Nine-old-switch2.jpg

Ok, you talked me into it.
SHAZZAM !
I strapped on a titanium sack, grabbed my butane micro torch, and tried to blend away the dry powdery look on the buttons. The results were mixed. The plastic darkened a little (ok), but they did shine up. There may have been a tad of bubbling from doing this, but it may have already been there. I didn't touch the outside of the buttons, where the fingers touch, since there's no room for error there.
I think it was an improvement.

-mof

201504_Nine-all-clean1.jpg
Polished one on the right
201504_Nine-all-flame-polished.jpg

Here are the switches installed, lined up, and with hair trigger feel. Love it.
-mof

201504_Nine-new-switch1.jpg201504_Nine-new-switch2.jpg201504_Nine-new-switch3.jpg201504_Nine-new-switch4.jpg

Get those flippers rebuilt and we'll have ourselves a PLAYER here!
-mof

201504_Nine-Old-flipperL3.jpg

Here is the situation on the old flippers:
I want the new flippers molexed in so I can remove them in seconds if I ever want to make an adjustment. Here are my steps:

-mof

201504_Nine-Old-flipperL1.jpg
201504_Nine-old-flipperL2.jpg
201504_Nine-old-slipper-R1.jpg

Let's start by clipping the wires with enough room to molex on either side (I want about 2" of available length on either side, so I'm really looking for a flat midpoint... think twice, cut once.)
-mof

201504_Nine-old-flipper-R2.jpg
201504_Nine-old-flipperL4.jpg

Next step. Clip the colored wires at the lugs, and clean them up, and strip the ends. For molex, you only strip about 3/16". For the yellow wires, just pick the longest one, and cut 4 equal wires, and strip and tin one end, when you feel good about all 4 lengths, then strip + tin the other ends.
-mof
201504_Nine-wires-clipped-at-lugs.jpg201504_Nine-wires-clipped-at-lugs-R.jpg
MOLEX ENDS ON RIGHT
201504_Nine-new-coil-lug-wires.jpg201504_Nine-switch-wires.jpg

Next step, attach the female molex crimp contact sockets to the wires.

Then insert your wires, and being to emulate the angles to match how it will sit in the system. This may mean shortening a few wires and re-tinning them.

-mof

201504_Nine-add-molex-crimp-contact-sockets.jpg

201504_Nine-insert-plastic-trim-ends.jpg

201504_Nine-insert-plastic-trim-ends2.jpg

201504_Nine-molex-ready.jpg

Separate the switch contacts a bit, and tin them.
-mof

201504_Nine-separate-and-tin.jpg

Next, take the soldering iron on a lower temp, like 650F and push down on each lug so that you free up a bigger opening in each one. Be careful, too much heat will put wear and tear on the plastic. Push down, and collapse the wires a bit.

Now you can estimate where you'll be aiming your wires. For the coils that share two wires on one lug, be prepared to have a lot of wire available to wrap the second wire around. I find it tough to get TWO wires through the lugs, and so this is my preferred style. You want physical contact, and then solder on top of that.

Focus on getting your molex to cleanly aim off to one side to mimic how the wires will flow from the coil on the playfield.

-mof

201504_Nine-one-thourgh-one-wrapped.jpg
201504_Nine-coil-ready.jpg
201504_Nine-coil-ready2.jpg

We're done on the bench.

Wipe off and clean your hanging wires hanging from the playfield, and strip/install the crimp contact pins.

I like to prep the crimp contacts with some pressure BEFORE I insert them so that the insulation doesn't catch.

-mof

201504_Nine-clip-wires-flat-at-PF.jpg

201504_Nine-more-clip-flat.jpg

201504_Nine-prep-molex-tool.jpg

201504_Nine-inert-ends-not-plug.jpg

Next step is to install the molex connector receptacle in such a way that it matches and aligns with the location of the molex connector jack coming off the coil.

Take your time with this and get it right the first time.

-mof

201504_Nine-installed-done.jpg

201504_Nine-installed-done2.jpg

Final step. Compare pics before and after -- ensure you have the right colors on each lug, and make sure you have the right colored wires coming in and going out of each molex connector.
-mof

LOOK GOOD?
201504_Nine-old-slipper-R1.jpg
201504_Nine-installed3-check-pics.jpg

WHAT ABOUT THIS ONE?
201504_Nine-Old-flipperL1.jpg201504_Nine-installed-check-pics4.jpg

GOLLY !
We are good to go, playing like a boss.
Now to stretch some super bands on and bruise up my thumbs real good...
-mof

201504_Nine-done-with-supers.jpg

At 35 hours in, it's official this game plays...
G-G-G-R-R-R-R-R-R-R-R-EAT !!!
I now officially recommend putting Nine Ball on your Wish List.
-mof

NOT FOR SALE
-mof

I'd like to post a movie to show how well this thing plays now, but... I have way too many sockets in both the GI and Controlled lamps that aren't behaving. I've already replaced all the bulbs, and put some effort in cleaning up the sockets with the lamp cleaning tool on the end of a drill. I'll have to become better with the sockets to win this war on this machine. I don't want to replace 10 sockets if I can do a better job cleaning the old crud off 'em. I may give it a shot tomorrow, but tomorrow's priority is rebuilding the HV section of the SDB.
-mof

VICTORY.

SDB repaired. Only took me 4+ hours to complete it. Good grief. Sore neck.
Upped my board repair skills a notch.
-mof

201504_Nine-old-HV-section.jpg

39 hours in 20 days, and got it playing well. That was a fun sprint.
Now back to Gorgar for a few weeks...
-mof

So, with Gorgar pretty much in the bag, and Fathom in a much happier place, I'm back to taking a look at Nine Ball.
Ah yes, now I recall what's up with Nine Ball...
MPU issues...
-mof

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-intermittent-mpu-issue-nine-ball