(Topic ID: 123950)

resto: Nine Ball (mof: 20150405)


By mof

5 years ago



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  • 107 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by mof
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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#1 5 years ago

Never let a grand wizard mess with your balls...
Or do you...?

We may never know the story behind Stern's Nine Ball from 1980, but it involves... nine ball billiards, and a wizard with the ability to shoot electricity from his finger-tips.

After getting a 1980 Stern Seawitch, I realized I had made a mistake and should have pursued a few more early Sterns (Nine Ball and Big Game) before filling my space with Williams and Bally machines.

A local Pinsider sold me his Nine Ball to free up some space. It had been sitting in his barn for 12+ years, with no MPU. Hopefully we'll get the thing to boot up before sundown -- it's gonna be a long day, but I'm gonna do this right...

Guide:
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1678/Stern_1980_Nine_Ball_Manual.pdf
-mof

TOC:
Pin unload: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/resto-nine-ball-mof-20150405#post-2368910
Diagnosing bad displays: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/resto-nine-ball-mof-20150405#post-2369071

EVALUATION:
=====================
PARTS/GRADES (5.5) overall
=====================
* Apron: 5: has some noticeable bad scratches that are more than "character flaws", replacement would be "very nice to have"
* Boards: 5: Everything seems to be working. I had to drop an Alltek MPU in there. (I haven't flipped the boards over yet to check for hacks). SDB has lots of issues. Will be rebuilding the HV section.
* Cabinet: 6: pretty fair shape. Good paint, decent seams, good shine, but a few deep long scratches. bondo/sanding in the future and repaint/stencil no question, but I can definitely enjoy it in current state.
* Backglass: 6: has a blown out corner. I already have a repro from John G.
* Displays: 4: A few segments and age related issues. Not perfect, but hopefully usable.
* Inner Cab: 8: Looks very good at first glance
* Legs: 6: Legs are painted grey, original, and have some weird scratches on them. The paint has actually stopped all rust, which is a nice thing. Two feet are stuck in there good. (sigh)
* Plastics: 6: has a decent set on there, I don't think there are too many "see-through" holes. Just two breaks/cracked pieces. Definitely need to flatten them all.
* Playfield: 5: Considerable wear. Cupped inserts. A few raised arrow inserts. Haven't checked to see how flat it is just yet.
* Pop cap: 7: aged blue, but 100% intact. decent.
* Shooter and Assembly: 6: needs a good polish. beehive plastic is kinda faded.
* Side Rails: 6: Flat and clean, all nails present. Didn't see any major bumps at first glance. Left edge has a strange long scrape on it.
* Smells: 7: Smells like an old game without that "rat piss" or "mold" or "coackroach" flavor to it. Not too bad actually.
* Transformer: 7: Looks decent.

==================================
Shopping List ($1000 budget, $625 current, $375 left)
==================================

BIG ($400)
* Alltek MPU $225 (have em)
* Repro BG $175 (have em)

SMALL ($225)
* flipper bats $7 (have em)
* flipper rubbers $3 (have em)
* flipper switches $10 (have em)
* 2 new flipper mechs and solenoids $80 (have em)
* lamp sockets $10 (have em)
* leg levelers $5 (have em)
* rubber kit $15 (Marco)
* shooter spring $1 (have em)
* solenoid sleeves $10 (have em)
* solenoid caps from big-daddy $15 (have em)
* HV rebuild kit $20 (have em)
* Extra used drops $20 (have em)
* Stern sticker $5
* Credit sticker $5
* Backglass trim $20

=================================================
SOMEDAY $1080: New PF $500+, Stencils $150, Cab repaint $300, Plastics $130
=================================================

#2 5 years ago

COMPONENT PROBLEMS
* can't add credits -- cut wires in coin door (temp fixed by setting up alltek mpu for freeplay - temp fix)
* displays go out within 30 seconds or so of turning on. (solved with HV kit and SDB repair)
* displays ghosting (solution in progress! -- game was sold with 6-digit displays, should be 7-digit x 4.)
* 8-drop assembly finicky (fixed)
* sound is fixed by hacking the 16-pin cable. (fixed)
* controlled lamps are weak / flickering (NEEDS WORK)
* a few bulbs/sockets out in 8-drop grid, and both 3-bulb wow areas (NEEDS WORK)
* spinner arm needs plastic bushing so it can't jam right and come out of the bracket holes. (fixed)
* spinner doesn't hang properly (fixed)
* multiball saucer eject rides too high (fixed)
* switch 4 isn't always registering. switch leaf was in backwards of course. (fixed)

PHYSICAL PROBLEMS
* loose neck in cabinet
* loose side rails
* deep groove in underside of playfield that catches on the playfield bracket (bondo this)
* loose playfield bracket (rear of game) (fixed)
* loose playfield bracket (front of game) (fixed)

COMPLETE (39.0 hrs)
* Cabinet vacuumed (.5)
* Cabinet and Head cleaned and waxed (1.5)
* Legs have new levelers (1.0)
* Game pitched and leveled (.5)
* Fuses, review and replace to spec (.5)
* Power checks (1.0)
* Bolts de-rusted and cleaned (.5)
* Cabinet wires, ensure the 4 harnesses move freely when playfield is rotated up/down (.0)
* Shooter, dremel, ultrasonic, and re-assemble it (1)
* GI lamp board, remove all bulbs, clean them, and clean out all sockets (.5)
* PF controlled lamps, install new bulbs where needed to see whether it's socket or bulb issues (1)
* Repaired stuck solenoid arm in multiball eject (1)
* Solenoid Driver Board, replace 30 year old caps (1)
* Solenoid Driver Board, added 3 ground mods to reverse side (.5)
* HV Caution Shield - hand made with new sticker (1)
* Acorns, install temp rubber set during shop stage (.25)
* Plastics, cleaned with dish soap, warm water and a rag (.25)
* Rubbers replaced (most of them) (.25)
* Posts, tighten, tumble and re-fill all stripped holes (.25)
* Playfield, vacuum, brush, clean and wax (1)
* Star Posts, clean, and reinstall (.5)
* Dipswitches, set them for freeplay, etc and/or set functions using coin door buttons (.25)
* Removed, cleaned and re-installed bank of 8-drops (2.25)
* Replace spinner switch wire with a real one (.5)
* Troubleshoot sound problem, and solve it (1.5)
* Plug - replace (.5)
* Display test (.5) - starting to figure out what all the issues are
* Spinner, polish and lubricate with silicon (1/2 drop) (.5)
* Spinner, made and added spacer, flipped leaf over, gets 40 spins now (1)
* Screwed in playfield bracket better, front and rear (.0)
* Switch test pass (.25)
* Solenoid test pass (.25)
* Flipper assemblies, molex and rebuild (3)
* GI lamp board, remove all bulbs, and install only 10 (my personal taste) (.25)
* POP sleeve changed (.25)
* Apron, and shooter gauge clean it (use a minimal gentle cleaner, don’t remove any paint) (2)
* Fix drop bank (1)
* Fix wrong post (.5)
* Fix switch 4 (.5)
* Legs, Install floor sliders (.25)
* Switch adjustments, 2nd multiball switch needs a lil help, switch 4 in horseshoe (.75)
* Bulbs, install ultrasoniced 44s (.5)
* Solenoid sleeves, review them all, and clean or replace them (.5)
* Slings, ultrasonic, re-sleeve, and tune properly (1)
* Cabinet Power switch, clean it and the bracket (.5)
* Pop, rebuild and adjust all leaves to hair-trigger perfection (.25)
* Flipper button switches, set right # of spacers, replace with new parts (1)
* Flipper buttons, ultrasonic and reinstall (.75) (34.5)
* SDB repaired with HV kit (4.5) (39.0)

BACKBOX (8 hrs)
* Backbox, clean the lamp board, tumble and reassemble door brackets
* Backglass, clean both sides carefully
* Backglass, install new grip tape to better hold the backglass channel and trim
* Backglass channel, replace
* Connectors, check all connectors for burn (rectifier board)
* Displays, wipe down glass and rubber
* Fuses, review recommended upgrades to improve safety and add a few if advised
* Power, check all board Test Point’s (TPs) against spec
* Solder joints, check all boards for cold solder joints and reflow as needed

CABINET (14 hrs)
* Cabinet protectors, Install the metal PBL ones
* Cabinet wires, clean them for appearance
* Coin door carriage bolts, remove and clean or polish them
* Coin door flap, remove and de-rust it (if stainless steel)
* Coin door, clean it (clean up old stickers if needed)
* Instruction Cards, make new ones, and ensure you have new acetate covers for them
* Inserts, ensure they are all flat. Adjust and re-glue any that are not (2)
* Lockdown bar, de-rust, clean and install new foam
* Lockdown bar receiver, de-rust, clean and reinstall it
* Playfield guides and edges inside the cabinet, clean/wax them for ease of movement
* Transformer board, remove and clean under it if possible, (sand and varnish if possible)
* Transformer brackets, ultrasonic and reassemble, clean up transformer

PLAYFIELD (7 hrs)
* Drop target assemblies (2 of 3), molex, ultrasonic and reassemble
* Lamp (controlled) test (wow target set is now out, wasn't before)
* Lamp sockets, review that all work properly, and clean/replace any that need it (many are bad)
* Plastic protectors, create new ones from scratch for vulnerable high use areas (one plastic broke)
* Plastics flatten
* Playfield brackets, (that seat in the lockdown bar) tumble and reassemble
* Rubber kit, install new one (1/2 done)
* Shooter Lane protector, polish and reinstall
* Solenoid check, ensure they are all to spec

#3 5 years ago

Unloading on Sunday. What a glorious day...
-mof

201504_Nine-unloading1.jpg201504_Nine-unloading2.jpg

LEGS OFF. Get up on the cart for your Cabinet inspection...
201504_Nine-dirty-feet.jpg
201504_Nine-body1.jpg201504_Nine-body2.jpg201504_Nine-body5.jpg201504_Nine-body6.jpg201504_Nine-body7.jpg201504_Nine-body8.jpg201504_Nine-body9.jpg

#4 5 years ago

From what I can tell, the neck on this thing is dubious. I can pull on the panel with the 4 threaded holes in it for the head bolts, and it moves. Eventually, I'll need to learn to lock this thing all in with nails/glue or whatever is required. For now, I want to get things cleaned up so I can begin to run checks before trying to power it up.

-mof

201504_Nine-body3.jpg
201504_Nine-body4.jpg

#5 5 years ago

The inside of the cabinet isn't bad -- has a coin box in here, but I wonder if it's original or what.
I "think" the entire harness is in here. fingers crossed.
Coin door is missing a solenoid, and has a few cut wires. Oh boy.
Rectifier board looks "ok"
-mof

201504_Nine-cabinet-coin-door.jpg
201504_Nine-cabinet1.jpg201504_Nine-cabinet2.jpg201504_Nine-cabinet3.jpg201504_Nine-cabinet4.jpg201504_Nine-cabinet5.jpg201504_Nine-rectifier-check.jpg

#6 5 years ago

Under the playfield looks "ok" -- I found that I was unable to move a few of the solenoid arms... This has been sitting a LONG time... lots of work to do here.
-mof

201504_Nine-under1.jpg201504_Nine-under2.jpg
201504_Nine-crap-solenoid-arm.jpg

#7 5 years ago

Outside the head, and inside the head...

Inside the head...

Boards look "decent". I haven't flipped 'em over to see what lurks on the backsides.
Wait a sec -- what's going on with the sound board ribbon cables. Oh boy...
I'm not a display guy just yet -- so not sure the condition of these things...
-mof

201504_Nine-head-before.jpg
201504_Nine-head2.jpg
201504_Nine-solenoid-board.jpg
201504_Nine-lamp-board.jpg
201504_Nine-sound-board.jpg201504_Nine-sound-ribbon-cables-with-hacks.jpg201504_Nine-inside-head.jpg201504_Nine-inside-head2.jpg

201504_Nine-backbox-instructions.jpg

201504_Nine-display1.jpg201504_Nine-display2.jpg201504_Nine-display3.jpg

#8 5 years ago

Here's the playfield. Lovely touch up work, and some bizarre fluids filling in some damage. Oh brother...
Apron has some good scratches on it.
Lower PF has some blue paint spilled all over it -- that will be gone soon.
Two broken plastics.
But hey, a decent lockdown bar and receiver !!! (Gotta look for the little things!)
-mof

201504_Nine-PF-upper.jpg
201504_Nine-PF-middle.jpg201504_Nine-PF-lower.jpg201504_Nine-PF-lower2.jpg201504_Nine-PF-damage1.jpg201504_Nine-PF-broken-plastic.jpg201504_Nine-PF-apron-scratched.jpg
201504_Nine-body-lockdown-set.jpg
// Error: Image 387398 not found //// Error: Image 387396 not found //

WTF POST MOVE
// Error: Image 387399 not found //

#9 5 years ago

Put the head on this beast, and review the harness.
Looks good. No burnt connectors that I can see.
-mof

201504_Nine-harness-out.jpg

#10 5 years ago

I decided to start by getting the Alltek installed. It's nice to have one new MPU on hand for each manufacturer, since you can dial them up for any title. This board does 90 titles I think...
-mof
201504_Nine-alltek-installed.jpg

#11 5 years ago

Prep the patient:
1. Vacuum everything
2. Clean and wax the body and head
3. Prep leg and head bolts, and the legs and "feet" (first evaporust THEN ultrasonic)

-mof

201504_Nine-body-cleaned-and-waxed1.jpg201504_Nine-body-cleaned-and-waxed2.jpg201504_Nine-body-cleaned-and-waxed3.jpg201504_Nine-body-cleaned-and-waxed4.jpg

CLEAN and CLEANER
201504_Nine-bolts-after-derust.jpg201504_Nine-bolts-after-ultrasonic.jpg

SHINY HEAD (with nice scratches)
201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-side.jpg201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-side2.jpg201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-side3.jpg201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-side4.jpg201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed-top.jpg

201504_Nine-head-clean-waxed.jpg
#12 5 years ago

The shooter was sticky AND the rod was stuck, so I dremeled off the extra material on the tip and got it out. I had to actually buzz the area where the e-clip is secured as well. That lip was catching on the inside of the bee hive plastic.
-mof
STUCK
201504_Nine-stuck-shooter.jpg
FIXED
201504_Finished-shooter.jpg

#13 5 years ago

Next up is to follow the repair guides step by step and make sure we're seeing the right voltages...
We also put together a nice checklist here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/post-purchase-checklist

1. Check for low ohms on solenoids
2. Check rectifier board voltages
3. Check fuses
4. Check solenoid board voltages
5. Review the power cord
6. Review all socketed chips to ensure none are turned upside down
(anything else?)

-mof

#14 5 years ago

I started with the solenoids. They all looked to be to spec, and measured with plenty of resistance:
-mof

1. Check for low ohms on solenoids

Coin lockout, C-36-5300, (don’t see a solenoid for it)
Drop Target (1), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (2), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (3), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (4), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (5), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (6), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (7), c1-34-3400, (didn’t check - hidden)
Drop Target (8), B-24-1600, 11.5
Drop Target (3R), B-27-2300, 32.5
Drop Target (3C), B-27-2300, 32.5
Flipper (L), J-25-475/34-4500, 6.0 (outside 2)
Flipper (R), J-25-475/34-4500, 33.0 (outside 2)
Lane Kicker, J-28-2300, 33.5
Outhole Kicker, J-26-1200, 10.5
Slingshot (L), J-26-1600, 18.5
Slingshot (R), J-26-1600, 10.5
Stand-up-target, J-26-1200, 10.5
Thumper Bumper, J-26-1200, 10.5

#15 5 years ago

Next up was to hook up the solenoid board and review the TP's there:

2. Check rectifier board test points

EXPECT
TP1 (on AS2518-18) = 5.4 volts DC +/- .8 volts (4.6 to 6.2 volts). Fuse F1, bridge BR1. Used to power the "switched illumination" (feature lamps).
TP1 (on AS2518-49 & -54) = 6.5 volts DC (5.8 to 7.2 volts). Fuse F1, voltage regulator RP1 and RP2. Used to power the "switched illumination" (feature lamps).
TP2 = 230 volts DC, +/- 27 volts (203 to 257 volts). Fuse F2, diodes CR1 to CR4. Used to power the score displays.
TP3 = 12 volts DC (11 to 16 volts). Fuse F3, bridge BR2. Used to power the regulated +5 volts DC for the game's logic circuits.
TP4 = 7.3 volts AC, +/- 1.0 volts (6.3 to 8.3 volts). Fuse F5. Used to power the general illumination.
TP5 = 43 volts DC, +/- 5.4 volts (47.6 to 48.4 volts). Fuse F4, bridge BR3. Used to power all the coils.

ACTUAL
TP1,4.9vdc
TP2,200vdc
TP3,14.0vdc
TP4,7.0vac
TP5,43.0vdc

#16 5 years ago

3. Check rectifier board Fuses

The 20amp fuse was a 25amp — oops! Caught one… HAHA !

-mof

#17 5 years ago

4. solenoid board, TPs

J1,J2,J3,J4,J5 plugged in and nothing else.

(no load)

TP1,5.35
TP2,200
TP3,5.1
TP4,256 <— seems a bit high.
TP5,14.5

#18 5 years ago

Everything is checking out ok...
Its time to plug it in and pray...
-mof

#19 5 years ago

Day 1 wrap up...

Houston, we have lift off !!!
I put in 3 balls, and played a game. Oh boy, this is going to be quite a project. LOTS to do... She's a limping fawn right now for sure.
Bottom Line: I am going to learn a LOT giving this thing its sea legs.
All in a day's work.
-mof

Damage Report:
* can't add credits -- cut wires in coin door (will put Alltek in free play mode for now (no max credits #20)
* multiball eject stuck (hard to move manually, solenoid arm barely moves, I suspect WD40)
* displays go out within 30-60 seconds of a game running
* sound is (mostly) out
* bank of 8 does not reset during a game (only between balls)
* half the controlled lights are out (bulbs)
* solenoid board says "3-4 flippers only" -- do we care?
* shooter rod (was) stuck in housing
* loose neck in cabinet -- glass won't slide in unless you tilt the head back (uggg)
* loose side rails

201504_Nine-flash-pf-day1.jpg

#20 5 years ago

Day 2:
Replace the caps on the solenoid board for good measure...
-mof

#21 5 years ago

Here's a shot of the once-crispy rectifier board. I see some missing wires and pins. I sure hope the hacker hard-wired them on the back side. Oh electrical tape! That's always a good sign.
-mof

201504_Nine-rectifier-board-once-crispy.jpg

#22 5 years ago

Wow...the entire J1 connector hard wired to the back side. You have your fun cut out for you.

#23 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Wow...the entire J1 connector hard wired to the back side. You have your fun cut out for you.

Ha, no that one I just unplugged...
(Yes I do have a lot of "fun" coming my way on this one.)
-mof

#24 5 years ago

Day #2: I replaced the caps on the solenoid board for good measure. I was pleased to already have the kit here. I always try to keep one kit on hand for the "next one" that comes along.

TIP: Always buy TWO when you get an affordable repair kit of any sort...

TP2 and TP4 still give the same readings of 200 and 256.

I noticed some work on the back side of the board. Is that factory, or recommended mods? Almost just looks like replacing traces.

-mof

201504_Nine-solenoid-fix-complete.jpg201504_Nine-solenoid-fix.jpg201504_Nine-solenoid-hope-these-are-good-mods.jpg

#25 5 years ago

Day #3:
Tinkered a bit.
Replaced all bulbs in the head, to get a sense of the bulb/socket issues. The backbox GI sockets are not rotating, which is nice. I took a lamp cleaning tool and a drill and went to work on all 40+ of the sockets, and it may have helped a bit.
Replaced most controlled lamps under the PF. I noticed the controlled lamps are weak, (adding new problem to solve)
Removed, cleaned, added a new sleeve and re-installed the multiball eject kicker.
-mof

#26 5 years ago

Component Problem
Displays turn off after ~30 seconds.
Looking for help in this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-displays-turn-off-after-30-seconds
-mof

#27 5 years ago

Did you say the game was sitting in a barn for 10 years? To add to your list, I would suggest repinning all connectors and I would solder in a GPE rectifier board as well. Also, in ninebody4.jpg, that wood looks rotten to me. You might want to pry off the neck and repair that section of wood. Otherwise, I don't think the head will ever tighten down that well if that supporting wood area in the cabinet is damaged.

I hope you enjoy this game after you complete all the work that you have ahead of you.

#28 5 years ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

Did you say the game was sitting in a barn for 10 years? To add to your list, I would suggest repinning all connectors and I would solder in a GPE rectifier board as well. Also, in ninebody4.jpg, that wood looks rotten to me. You might want to pry off the neck and repair that section of wood. Otherwise, I don't think the head will ever tighten down that well if that supporting wood area in the cabinet is damaged.
I hope you enjoy this game after you complete all the work that you have ahead of you.

Thanks Brian!
-mof

#29 5 years ago

A "limping fawn"? Great analogy!

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

A "limping fawn"? Great analogy!

Yeah, no idea why I said that -- I feel much more like a 'dog-rescuer' in this hobby. Getting dogs out of abusive homes, and giving them love in my home.
-mof

#31 5 years ago

Me too...you should have seen the house I rescued Xenon from. Wow what a pit. She was literally a diamond in the 'rough'.

#32 5 years ago

That is a fun game. Looking forward to seeing this one progress Mof.

#33 5 years ago

Yep. Looking forward to seeing it come along, as well as the guy's who just got one in France. This is the machine that popped my pin cherry, hopefully one will pop up in a year or so.

#34 5 years ago

Spent a few hours babying the solenoid driver board. I don't have a repair kit on hand, I'll have to order one.

1. I did the 3 grounding mods
2. I replaced the big caps
3. I reflowed the entire HV section
4. Measured some components to look for parts operating out of spec

-mof

#35 5 years ago

everytimes i see.........
MOF= "mother fu****"
as in "mofo" change that!

#36 5 years ago
Quoted from wnorwich89:

Yep. Looking forward to seeing it come along, as well as the guy's who just got one in France. This is the machine that popped my pin cherry, hopefully one will pop up in a year or so.

Yeah, I'm the guy. I'm just too lazy to make a detailed report on the work I do on the machine, like mof does. Besides, I go at a slow pace so it would not be that exciting. I'll keep posting questions here and there, and at the end you'll see some pictures.

It's a great pinball, and that's why I picked up one in a poor shape, I could not just let it go or let it die in some guy's shed. I'm sure it was the same for mof.

#37 5 years ago

Did a few of the recommended grounding upgrades to the Solenoid Driver Board.
-mof
201504_Nine-SW-SDB-ground-upgrades.jpg

#38 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

I'm just too lazy to make a detailed report on the work I do on the machine, like mof does.

I hear that, I'm more of a jump in and get it done guy. I figure that when I find one it'll need some work as well, it's great when anyone posts anything that can help others in the future.

Funny though, there were few around in Oct or so and then not much until the last couple of weeks.

#39 5 years ago

I went off on a quick tangent and matched my HV Caution plastic on my Seawitch Stern SDU-100 SDB. I made two plastics with 1/16" thick lexan, and put a few tools to work, and then printed out a few labels on a new HP printer.

I could have bought them pre-made and saved a ton of time (and cleanup), but I thought it would be fun to try making them myself ONCE -- it's certainly gratifying each time I look at the finished product. It also makes me appreciate buying them pre-made. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/M-1837

Really put a few tons of dust on the belt sander. Clean up on isle 1!

An hour of fun.
-mof

PRINT LABELS
201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-labels.jpg

GRAB A TOOL AND CUT
201504_Nine-cutout-tool.jpg201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-first-cut.jpg

SAND TO A NICE RECTANGLE, HAND SAND AND DRILL HOLES
201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-yellow-and-clear.2.jpg201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-yellow-and-clear.jpg201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-yellow-and-clear3.jpg

ADD LABELS AND ENJOY THE BACKUP STOCK
201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-extras.jpg201504_Nine-HV-caution-shield-installed.jpg

WTF HAPPA TO MY BELT SANDER - LEXAN SNOW
201504_Nine-belt-sander-needs-cleanup.jpg

#40 5 years ago

Did some more chores around the house, and then treated myself to a playfield tear down, cleaning, wax, startpost cleaning, rubber swap, to see what the game should play like...
-mof

RUBBER MAP
201504_Nine-playfield-clean1.jpg

PLASTIC FIX (LET THE SUPER GLUE SET 20 MINUTES FIRST)
201504_Nine-playfield-plastic-fix.jpg

ULTRASONIC'D ALL SCREWED IN STAR POSTS
201504_Nine-playfield-starposts-ready-for-battle.jpg

OF COURSE SLING SWITCHES ARE INSTALLED WRONG
201504_Nine-playfield-switches-backwards1.jpg201504_Nine-playfield-switches-backwards2.jpg

CLEAN, WAXED AND HAPPIER
201504_Nine-playfield-ready1.jpg201504_Nine-playfield-ready2.jpg

#41 5 years ago

So WTF is up with some of the star posts in Nine Ball with the hex bolts? You turn them and they don't unscrew. I look under the playfield, and they look like the end of a carriage bolt. Who thought this was a good idea? Why are they in Nine Ball, and NOT in Seawitch? Where should I lock in and hold the bolt, in order to turn the nut? Bizarre.

So many questions...

-mof

#42 5 years ago

That's the way Quicksilver is too. Seawitch doesn't have the high powered pops like these games have.

#43 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

That's the way Quicksilver is too. Seawitch doesn't have the high powered pops like these games have.

eh?
-mof

#44 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

So WTF is up with some of the star posts in Nine Ball with the hex bolts? You turn them and they don't unscrew. I look under the playfield, and they look like the end of a carriage bolt. Who thought this was a good idea? Why are they in Nine Ball, and NOT in Seawitch? Where should I lock in and hold the bolt, in order to turn the nut? Bizarre.
So many questions...
-mof

I had the same issue in my Nine Ball with a dozen of them. I ended up sawing them (the posts and the bolts within) and ordered new posts. I'll also order new bolts for all the posts, well the ones that have bolts because some have screws, this time with a head you can grip.

#45 5 years ago
Quoted from aKa:

I had the same issue in my Nine Ball with a dozen of them. I ended up sawing them (the posts and the bolts within) and ordered new posts. I'll also order new bolts for all the posts, well the ones that have bolts because some have screws, this time with a head you can grip.

ok - link me which posts you ordered, I'm all for upgrading the mechs to make the game more serviceable.
-mof

#46 5 years ago

BTW -- the faceted star posts in this game are the coolest ever. Why am I only seeing them on this game, and not Seawitch for example? They have no grooves for wax to get caught in. Very elegant.
-mof

#47 5 years ago

I dug into the MASSIVE BANK of 8 drop targets. Started disassembling and taking pics.

Well. Well. Well...

I think I see part of the problem here...

-mof

DID I MENTION BIG?
201504_Nine-8-drops-big-momma.jpg

TGIM (Thank god it's molexed)
201504_Nine-8-drops-is-molexed.jpg

SWITCHES INSTALLED BACKWARDS? OF COURSE.
201504_Nine-8-drops-more-backwards-switches.jpg

MASSIVE COIL !
201504_Nine-8-drops-monster-coil.jpg

BROKEN WIRE - OOPS
201504_Nine-8-drops-1.jpg

IS THERE A MISSING COIL OR IS THAT STOCK?
201504_Nine-8-drops-big-momma.jpg

201504_Nine-8-drops-missing-coil-or-not.jpg
#48 5 years ago

I guess there should only be 7 of the tiny .../3400 coils, per page 15 of the guide. Cool...
-mof

#49 5 years ago

Does anyone know what the size of that coil sleeve is inside that monster coil? I'll ask Marco since they sell the coil...
-mof

#50 5 years ago
Quoted from mof:

ok - link me which posts you ordered, I'm all for upgrading the mechs to make the game more serviceable.
-mof

You can find them at this retailer in France :
http://www.flipper-passion.com/index.php?cPath=105_178&osCsid=080a6e760f76ea397be81f5a4ce453ca
But I'm sure you can also find them elsewhere, they seem to be pretty standard gottlieb posts. Just be careful, there's two sizes (three are shorter ones on Nine Ball).

Quoted from mof:

I guess there should only be 7 of the tiny .../3400 coils, per page 15 of the guide. Cool...
-mof

You can't drop the target n°8 any other way than by touching it, so no need for a coil ...

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