(Topic ID: 134113)

Resetting/rebooting on Star Wars Trilogy (white star)

By radix

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by radix
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 years ago

Hello all,

I could really use your help. Been spinning my wheels on this for the better part of a day.

Condition
- Game constantly resets when J1 is connecting Power Driver Board to CPU/Sound Board
- Does not reset when J1 is removed
- Power driver board LED 204 blinks non stop
- CPU board LED 200 goes on for a moment and then turns off
- Game behavior is intermittent, sometimes audio plays for a moment, sometimes the display shows for a moment. Most of the time the - display and audio do not function and play field lights blink

Testing done
- Keeping J1 connected and removing all other cables (including display) from the CPU board besides power and J1 still results in reseting
- 5v power readings at CN2 connector was reading 5.25v, I reduced the R115 pot till 5.06v readings on the power board at R114 and 5.00v readings on the cpu 5v measure point
- Wall voltage is at 121 AC
- Tested the ground and ensured all screws on all boards are secure
- Swapped U212 (MS6264A) out with a RAM chip from a Monopoly
- Reseated the EPROM (U210) and CMOS RAM (U212)
- Switched out the J1 cable with a known good one and no change
- Tested all fusses
- Swapped entire power drive board with a known good one in a Monopoly. Resulted in same behavior but the rate of 204 blinking was faster

I dont know what to do for troubleshooting. It seems clear the problem is with the CPU/Sound board but I do not know how to test that. pinwiki.com and the manual dont provide a lot of guidance on testing the CPU board. Does anyone have a whitestar CPU/Sound testing guide or something to that effect?

#2 8 years ago

Post a good photo of the area of the CPU around the battery holder to the bottom of the board. I suspect battery leakage is your problem.

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

#3 8 years ago

Thanks Rob for your response! I don't think the issue is battery leakage is the issue. I see no signs of corrosion or board damage at all. I have attached two high resolution closeups of the board. Do you still think acid damage is the issue? If not any other ideas?

IMG_20150726_142754289.jpgIMG_20150726_142754289.jpg
IMG_20150726_142806382.jpgIMG_20150726_142806382.jpg

#4 8 years ago

Cut pin 3 on U218 on the CPU board and U210 on the driver board per Stern SB 112 - http://www.sternpinball.com/upload/downloads/sb112.pdf.

Swap places with the 68B09s on the CPU board.

Could also be a bad C30 on the 5v line. Unless you have an ESR meter to check it you could just swap it and see if that helps.

viperrwk

#5 8 years ago

Thank you viperrwk for the suggestion. I made the SB112 cuts and it did not change the behavior.

Swapping U6 and U209 68B09E CPUs did change the behavior a bit, rather then flashing the lights after a few moments of booting when they where switched the lights do not flash. Swapping them back results in lights flashing again. Not sure what to make of that or if I swapped the correct chips.

I do have an ESR actually but discovered the 9v in it is dead however if your talking about testing C30 on the power driver board that does not seem to make sense. I have already swapped out the power driver board with a known good one and had no change.

Any further assistance would be great. I am really at a loss on this.

#6 8 years ago

The CPU chips should be identically marked so it should be straightforward to swap them. I was referring to C30 on the CPU board which is the big radial bypass cap on the 5v line - 1000uf 16v:

http://web.archive.org/web/20120801023626/http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/CPU_Sound_Bd.pdf

viperrwk

#7 8 years ago

I got my ESR meter going and C30 on the CPU board reads .04, according to my meters chart a 16v 1000uf should read under .09 so it seems fine. I tested all the other caps and they all seem within range.

Regarding the CPU switch. I am confident I switched the correct ICs and that I seated them correctly oriented. I am just at a loss about the difference in behavior from moving them around. Any ideas what that is about?

#8 8 years ago

Pics look good, very clean. I've seen many times though, battery leakage actually drip from the top of the board, miss most of the middle of the board, and attack traces and components at the bottom of the board. Does some crazy stuff with display logic and between board communication since it tends to rest in those sections.

You definitely shouldn't be seeing any different behavior swapping processors. You see no tarnishing of the legs at all on the 6809 pins or socket?

--
Rob Anthony
Pinball Classics
http://LockWhenLit.com
Quality Board Work - In Home Service
borygard at gmail dot com

2 weeks later
#9 8 years ago

Thanks everyone for you assistance. This was a huge pain to work out but I wanted to get back to the group with details on what was needed. Many overlapping issues seem to have been at play here. I wont walk you through all of them but I did want to share the resolution. So all of these corrections where required to get to a fully functional system. Replaced the game ROM which was somehow corrupted, replaced the RAM module under the battery holder, replaced the J1 ribbon cable which was scorched from the fluorescent light. All those things created separate issues that combined in the behavior I described. Thanks again for the help!

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