Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Well I finally got the pop-bumpers figured out... I finally adjusted the switches so one bumper would not set off the adjacent bumper. After that I had to figure out why some of my bumpers were sticking in the down position, and setting off the failsafe built into the PI-80 board (if a bumper stays down for more than 5 seconds, it triggers a tilt, and give an error). Turns out my plungers were magnetized. I put a strip of electrical tape on my coil stops, and now the bumpers work pretty well.
So for now, I am going to call this done. It is not the prettiest black hole I have ever seen, but it is my black hole. It plays pretty fast and hard, and I think I have over 100 games on it, and I have yet to get a multi-ball, but it is fun.[quoted image][quoted image]
I just did a refurbishment of a Black Hole myself, although I started with a machine that was it relatively good shape. It had just been unmaintained and abused by grandkids (and myself when I was younger) in my parents' basement for a couple of decades. I managed to repair a couple of problems with the all-original boards but replaced the original power supply (5v leg died halfway through restoration) with the Rottendog GPS081. I also performed the ground mods, as is required by federal law.
But I had the exact problems with the pop bumpers -- one pops, they all pop. And then they stick down. I took them apart, cleaned everything, reassembled. Replaced a coil here, swapped a plunger there. Wrapped plungers, mounting brackets, and coil stop brackets in cloth and smashed them against things (in attempt to demagnetize). No change. I was really feeling stumped for a while. I ended up ordering complete rebuild kits from Steve, but in the end, I realized this was probably not necessary.
Domino pops: Yes, it's good to have the gap set well, but it's important to first make sure the skirt pin sits perfectly centered in the spoon when at rest. Also make sure the spoon is clean and smooth. Loosen the spoon switch screws and twist the switch body a few degrees left or right if necessary to get it just right. This gives you more leeway to set a wider gap without losing pop sensitivity.
Sticky rings: I'm about 90% sure the problem was not magnification, (I think this is a Pinside myth), but simply weak return springs. The brand new springs I got with the rebuild kit were noticeably stiffer than the tired and weak (1981 original) ones I took out. Once I finished the rebuilds, set the spoon and switch gaps... both problems disappeared and the machine plays great.
Great reading your restoration story! I'm curious if you hit any other snags.