Hi all

after transforming a count down into a space walk,
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoration-count-down-playfield-vs-space-walk
I begin the restoration of an original space walk
it is very damaged and we will have to resume everything
some photo of the PF into the machine.
space walk (1) (resized).jpg
space walk (2) (resized).jpgspace walk (3) (resized).jpgspace walk (4) (resized).jpgspace walk (5) (resized).jpgspace walk (6) (resized).jpg
the PF disassembledspace walk (7) (resized).jpg
some close upspace walk (10) (resized).jpgspace walk (9) (resized).jpgspace walk (8) (resized).jpg

we must remove all that is fragile at risk of starting again during painting or varnishing.
also sand all the wood parts.
the launch lane is very damaged and the ball has deeply dug the wood up to the top of the PF.
it will be necessary to sand deeply, but the minimum not to end up with insufficient thickness compared to the rest of the PF, not easy
the inserts are covered with a well-yellowened varnish and some have surface imperfctions.
I will dismount them so I can sand them more easily.space walk (11) (resized).jpg
before cleaning, it was set back from the surface and after, it's even worse, especially since the wood worked so much and the inserts came out almost alone just by turning the PF.
the diameter of the inserts being lower, impossible to wedge them perfectly with just glue only.
we can see the space by placing a small card.space walk (13) (resized).jpgspace walk (14) (resized).jpgspace walk (15) (resized).jpgspace walk (16) (resized).jpgspace walk (17) (resized).jpg
So I made shims in abs to get as much as possible to the right level, the problem is that the thickness of the insert is different and not one is the same, so I made different height to adjust at bestspace walk (12) (resized).jpg

here is a wedge in is hole space walk (19) (resized).jpg
I took posts from old fathom PF to put pressure while taking the glue.space walk (20) (resized).jpg
in this configuration it was easy, a mini PF to press everywhere at the same time with a weight on it for about 2 hours, (it's quick glue)space walk (21) (resized).jpgspace walk (22) (resized).jpg
for some cases, as I did not want to spend too much time sticking them one by one, I did pretty crazy editingspace walk (18) (resized).jpgspace walk (23) (resized).jpgspace walk (24) (resized).jpg
the preparation of the support is finished, the wood has been tinted, I go to the first stencil of simple formspace walk (25) (resized).jpg

I start with white and yellow.
I put a vinyl stencil on the entire surface of the PFspace walk (26) (resized).jpg
then, with a new Xacto blade, I cut the lines to make the stencils
space walk (27) (resized).jpgspace walk (28) (resized).jpgspace walk (29) (resized).jpgspace walk (30) (resized).jpg
i start with the white paint, ( airbrush)space walk (32) (resized).jpg
when it's dry, I hide the white
space walk (33) (resized).jpg
yellow paint always with airbrushspace walk (34) (resized).jpg
i remove the stencilsspace walk (35) (resized).jpg
soon

for now, I take care of all geometric shapes.
the details will be done with the brush, too complicated to do everything with stencils and not too possible either

actually, I seal with clearcoat layer between each important work, to protect on the one hand, and to allow the stencils to be well sealed.
the numbers and letters are not made by show of hands, it's a technique that I gave up a long time ago since I bought a cameo (cutting robot) that allows to do a job as clean as decals while being more reliable.
I prefer painting with decal, there is always a risk of reaction with the varnish and to get the right shade with a printer is really very difficult, except of course the black.

sure, i have original scans, see the link on my first post on this topic, i show the process

I knew that you would pass by there, do not worry, it was before he's restoration of course and with its shape, it was perfect

there are other people who do a lot of artistic work, I think of this member whose name I no longer have who customized a Frontier Bally.
Hep also and many others

you misunderstood, I wish it was almost finished.
I said it was more advanced than what I've shown so far.
reporting on his work is not easy when you do not know the right technical terms in English.

at such a missing level of detail, it's too risky to draw without benchmarks.
we made a "calque", I do not know the term in English, to make benchmarks
DSC02364_grande (resized).jpg
from there, no particular technique to explain, the pictures that follow show the progress of the work, everything being done with a brush.
at first, there is the transfer of the pins to the pencil (type HB) and then they are painted with the same size brushes, 5/0 and 10/0DSC02299_grande (resized).jpgDSC02328_grande (resized).jpgDSC02327_grande (resized).jpgDSC02326_grande (resized).jpgthe larger areas are filled with flat brushes like the left side of the face, the mermaid's eye and the starry sky

the followingDSC02332_grande (resized).jpgDSC02331_grande (resized).jpgDSC02330_grande (resized).jpgDSC02346_grande (resized).jpgDSC02345_grande (resized).jpgDSC02344_grande (resized).jpgDSC02351_grande (resized).jpgDSC02350_grande (resized).jpgDSC02349_grande (resized).jpgto follow, the end of the first stage

thanks for the technical termes, i think we can say " translucent paper" too ?
it's finished for the first stage.
i will put a coat to protect before continuing stage 2.space walkphase 1 (2) (resized).jpg

space walkphase 1 (3) (resized).jpgspace walkphase 1 (4) (resized).jpgspace walkphase 1 (1) (resized).jpg
the following ASAP

Merci pour cette info

the next
I noticed a drawing error when laying a stencil.
it can happen when I have to redo everything on a playfield, I do too much thing at the same time
as much to explain the correction, I make a reference with a positive stencil that will serve as a centeringspace walk (1).jpg
then I can center the stencil perfectly.
then I withdraw the positivespace walk (2).jpgo make the job easier, I cover a little with whitespace walk (3).jpg then, to paint in yellow is easy, otherwise I would have had trouble hiding the black linespace walk (4).jpg
then, same method for redspace walk (5).jpgspace walk (6).jpg
space walk (7).jpgit is done.
I will do the black line when the next coat of varnish, there is risk of doing it

here is how to proceed to align the stencils, I use the spinning around for alignment, with the photos is easy to understand
space walk (9).jpgspace walk (10).jpg

I pass the airbrush and here is the resultspace walk (11).jpgspace walk (14).jpg
we can see a green spot (it's mastic) on the "B" of "BONUS" on the right, a hole that I thought useful attracted me the attention when stencil, it was time to see
there it drooled because I paint on the paint directly, I did not have much choice, I suspected a little but it will be easy to correct after the next opening.space walk (13).jpg

space walk (12).jpg

and I finish today with red, always the same method.
stencils are laid and everything is protected with recycled paper
space walk (15).jpgspace walk (16).jpgspace walk (17).jpg
a little red paintspace walk (18).jpg
before removing the paper cover, I remove the interiors of the numbers and letters this to avoid dirtying the PF with sweat.
at this stage, we can not clean anymore, we must take great care, especially since we have a very hot summer, we had temperatures above 40 ° C and today still 32 ° Cspace walk (19).jpgspace walk (20).jpg
space walk (21).jpgthen I remove all the cachesspace walk (22).jpg
I also pass the adhesive on the stencil to remove a maximum of paint that does not fit on the vinyl stencil, there may be paint flake that may dirty the PFspace walk (23).jpg
and finally, I remove the stencilsspace walk (26).jpgspace walk (25).jpgspace walk (24).jpg
I filmed these long hours of work and put an X20 speed ratio to get a glimpse of the work in a short video of about 10 minutes, it's pretty funny to watch

I would say that I am 85% of the adventure,

hi all, the next.
too used to working on the count down, I noticed a mistake, I almost reproduce the drawing of the count down on this PF at the red boxes "100 or 1000 W / L" next to the ball exit right and left.
as I put a blue is already donelayer of white, it was necessary to redo the blue and the black.SW (1).jpg
as the tray was varnished, no risk of leakage of black paint, I cut a stencil directly on the PF and I hide to protect.
no need to cover a big surface, I paint a small surface with an airbrush with very little pressureSW (2).jpg
it's done, i can continuSW (3).jpgSW (4).jpg.
these double strapping inserts are quite difficult to make.
I use the positive guide for centering but it is necessary to make a double stencil cutting because as it is quite fine, remove the positive and keep the negative to place it on it is not without risk of deformation on the vinyl transfer.
so I throw a positive and a negative to keep a different of each for a perfect job.
I put the centering positiveSW (5).jpg
and here is the negative of the second stencilSW (6).jpg
once laid, still have to remove the two positivesSW (8).jpg

the stencil of this strapping is very difficult because of its large diameter and the delicacy of the edging.
pen markers make laying much easier.SW (9).jpg
another example of a centering templateSW (13).jpg
the most sensitive stencil of the PF, really very difficult this oneSW (10).jpgSW (11).jpg
I remove the positive once the complete stencil is stuck on the PF, otherwise it's too fragile
SW (12).jpg
I will do in two part the other inscriptions because there is a lot of promiscuity with other stencilsSW (14).jpgSW (15).jpgSW (16).jpg
soon with the nextSW (17).jpg

second step of the black contours, here are some detailsDSC02497_grande.jpgDSC02498_grande.jpgDSC02499_grande.jpgDSC02500_grande.jpg
the half circles with the 4 small inserts to do one time, otherwise it would have been necessary to wait for the next layer of varnish to avoid the leaks of paintings, it is not systematic but if it had to happen and it is necessary to start all the work of this pink area with its diabolical lines
stencils installation is nearly completeDSC02496_grande.jpg
DSC02501_grande.jpgDSC02503_grande.jpg
the big GTB logo easier to do than the little one in the pink zone.
this one I prefer to do in the next step, it is too close to the linesDSC02504_grande.jpg

some insights when removing stencilsDSC02506_grande.jpgDSC02507_grande.jpg
it's over soon, I'm going to varnish all this and finalize, there are lots of little details to finish, like the face of the pin up, a lack of pink
above the right star rollover and other details not visible from afar, and of course, the back
DSC02512_grande.jpg

the return and the end of this "resto"
sorry for delay,so busy with the end of the year, three pinball show in fourty five days.

here is a photo album of the playfield finally finished.
place to photos
the appearance is satin / matte.
it is obtained from gloss varnish and then sanded to 1000 water paper.
a light buffing by hand to remove micro scratches that are seen only in the dark.
it's the best technique I've found, if the playfield is sanded with finer paper, the appearance will come back brilliant.
the ultimate solution is to use matte varnish but it is very difficult to find in small packaging is really very expensive.
go for photos, if you have questions ...
space walk (3).jpg
space walk (1).jpgspace walk (11).jpgspace walk (4).jpgspace walk (10).jpgspace walk (2).jpgspace walk (5).jpgspace walk (6).jpgspace walk (7).jpgspace walk (8).jpgspace walk (9).jpgspace walk (13).jpgspace walk (12).jpg
The Movie

Thanks for reading