(Topic ID: 249120)

Rescue Space Walk Playfield


By F-2NIRO

11 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Frax
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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    #1 11 days ago

    Hi all

    after transforming a count down into a space walk,
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoration-count-down-playfield-vs-space-walk
    I begin the restoration of an original space walk
    it is very damaged and we will have to resume everything
    some photo of the PF into the machine.
    space walk (1) (resized).jpg
    space walk (2) (resized).jpgspace walk (3) (resized).jpgspace walk (4) (resized).jpgspace walk (5) (resized).jpgspace walk (6) (resized).jpg
    the PF disassembledspace walk (7) (resized).jpg
    some close upspace walk (10) (resized).jpgspace walk (9) (resized).jpgspace walk (8) (resized).jpg

    #2 11 days ago

    we must remove all that is fragile at risk of starting again during painting or varnishing.
    also sand all the wood parts.
    the launch lane is very damaged and the ball has deeply dug the wood up to the top of the PF.
    it will be necessary to sand deeply, but the minimum not to end up with insufficient thickness compared to the rest of the PF, not easy
    the inserts are covered with a well-yellowened varnish and some have surface imperfctions.
    I will dismount them so I can sand them more easily.space walk (11) (resized).jpg
    before cleaning, it was set back from the surface and after, it's even worse, especially since the wood worked so much and the inserts came out almost alone just by turning the PF.
    the diameter of the inserts being lower, impossible to wedge them perfectly with just glue only.
    we can see the space by placing a small card.space walk (13) (resized).jpgspace walk (14) (resized).jpgspace walk (15) (resized).jpgspace walk (16) (resized).jpgspace walk (17) (resized).jpg
    So I made shims in abs to get as much as possible to the right level, the problem is that the thickness of the insert is different and not one is the same, so I made different height to adjust at bestspace walk (12) (resized).jpg

    #3 11 days ago

    here is a wedge in is hole space walk (19) (resized).jpg
    I took posts from old fathom PF to put pressure while taking the glue.space walk (20) (resized).jpg
    in this configuration it was easy, a mini PF to press everywhere at the same time with a weight on it for about 2 hours, (it's quick glue)space walk (21) (resized).jpgspace walk (22) (resized).jpg
    for some cases, as I did not want to spend too much time sticking them one by one, I did pretty crazy editingspace walk (18) (resized).jpgspace walk (23) (resized).jpgspace walk (24) (resized).jpg
    the preparation of the support is finished, the wood has been tinted, I go to the first stencil of simple formspace walk (25) (resized).jpg

    #4 11 days ago

    I start with white and yellow.
    I put a vinyl stencil on the entire surface of the PFspace walk (26) (resized).jpg
    then, with a new Xacto blade, I cut the lines to make the stencils
    space walk (27) (resized).jpgspace walk (28) (resized).jpgspace walk (29) (resized).jpgspace walk (30) (resized).jpg
    i start with the white paint, ( airbrush)space walk (32) (resized).jpg
    when it's dry, I hide the white
    space walk (33) (resized).jpg
    yellow paint always with airbrushspace walk (34) (resized).jpg
    i remove the stencilsspace walk (35) (resized).jpg
    soon

    #5 11 days ago

    Incredible. Such attention to detail.

    #6 10 days ago

    You're doing a playfield this complicated with.....frisket? Maybe I'm asking something obvious, but I see on the Yellow you painted right over some speckle pattern at the top of the outlanes...and on the white, you painted over the numbers you'd theoretically need there to know where to cut the frisket? Will that be left that way, or are you going to then do waterslides or something to replace the more complicated art?

    I did this with Crescendo, and that playfield is much simpler, but it was still a TON of effort. Results don't lie though.
    c8747b035cfa574a8e91daa81a26c4f45e3aa5ba (resized).jpg

    #7 10 days ago

    for now, I take care of all geometric shapes.
    the details will be done with the brush, too complicated to do everything with stencils and not too possible either

    #8 10 days ago

    I would seal what is there with a clear coat before proceeding with a paintbrush . Unless you did that when you mention you tinted the playfield.
    Also , are you going to restore the numbers with freehand painting ? Using decals would be , in my opinion , efficient and more accurate .

    #9 10 days ago

    actually, I seal with clearcoat layer between each important work, to protect on the one hand, and to allow the stencils to be well sealed.
    the numbers and letters are not made by show of hands, it's a technique that I gave up a long time ago since I bought a cameo (cutting robot) that allows to do a job as clean as decals while being more reliable.
    I prefer painting with decal, there is always a risk of reaction with the varnish and to get the right shade with a printer is really very difficult, except of course the black.

    #10 10 days ago

    Love to see how you do the lettering, cant tell if its a stencil you cut or you actually imbed the decal?

    You are a master!

    Ken

    #11 10 days ago
    Quoted from F-2NIRO:

    actually, I seal with clearcoat layer between each important work, to protect on the one hand, and to allow the stencils to be well sealed.
    the numbers and letters are not made by show of hands, it's a technique that I gave up a long time ago since I bought a cameo (cutting robot) that allows to do a job as clean as decals while being more reliable.
    I prefer painting with decal, there is always a risk of reaction with the varnish and to get the right shade with a printer is really very difficult, except of course the black.

    Ok , did you measure or scanned the exact location of the letters you are about to restore to make sure everything is put where it was ? Since everything is covered by paint now.

    #12 10 days ago
    Quoted from phototamer:

    Ok , did you measure or scanned the exact location of the letters you are about to restore to make sure everything is put where it was ? Since everything is covered by paint now.

    you must be new here. look at F-2NIRO's post history. he has it covered.

    #13 10 days ago
    Quoted from lint:

    you must be new here. look at F-2NIRO's post history. he has it covered.

    I am not questioning ability or method , no mention on letter positioning though made me curious .

    #14 10 days ago
    Quoted from phototamer:

    Ok, avez-vous mesuré ou scanné l’emplacement exact des lettres que vous êtes sur le point de restaurer pour vous assurer que tout est mis là où il était? .

    sure, i have original scans, see the link on my first post on this topic, i show the process

    #15 10 days ago

    This is awesome. Following.

    Thank you F-2NIRO for documenting your amazing work!

    #16 10 days ago
    Quoted from F-2NIRO:

    sure, i have original scans, see the link on my first post on this topic, i show the process

    This solves all my questions ! Merci

    #17 10 days ago

    Hey, don't damage my sof mini pf with that hammer!

    #18 9 days ago

    I knew that you would pass by there, do not worry, it was before he's restoration of course and with its shape, it was perfect

    #19 9 days ago
    Quoted from F-2NIRO:

    for now, I take care of all geometric shapes.
    the details will be done with the brush, too complicated to do everything with stencils and not too possible either

    You have a lot more patience than I do, then. There's no way I'd even consider doing something like that, especially after painting over my reference LOL. Even with detailed scans, no way I'd trust myself. I suck at drawing freehand, too. Looking forward to seeing more.

    #20 9 days ago

    Lots of effort, but well worth it for this ultra-rare title. Can't wait to see the final result.

    #21 8 days ago

    I just read that other thread....this is absolute madness. Wow. O_O

    #22 8 days ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    I just read that other thread....this is absolute madness. Wow. O_O

    yes #frax he puts us all to shame

    #23 7 days ago

    Hi Franck,
    Looking forward for next steps! After talking to you yesterday, I know you’re almost done with this PF.
    So please, more pictures and explanations on that great job.
    I’m sure it will look gorgeous as usual

    #24 6 days ago
    Quoted from pinhead52:

    yes #frax he puts us all to shame

    there are other people who do a lot of artistic work, I think of this member whose name I no longer have who customized a Frontier Bally.
    Hep also and many others

    #25 6 days ago
    Quoted from BallyCrazy:

    Hi Franck,
    Looking forward for next steps! After talking to you yesterday, I know you’re almost done with this PF.
    So please, more pictures and explanations on that great job.
    I’m sure it will look gorgeous as usual

    you misunderstood, I wish it was almost finished.
    I said it was more advanced than what I've shown so far.
    reporting on his work is not easy when you do not know the right technical terms in English.

    #26 6 days ago

    at such a missing level of detail, it's too risky to draw without benchmarks.
    we made a "calque", I do not know the term in English, to make benchmarks
    DSC02364_grande (resized).jpg
    from there, no particular technique to explain, the pictures that follow show the progress of the work, everything being done with a brush.
    at first, there is the transfer of the pins to the pencil (type HB) and then they are painted with the same size brushes, 5/0 and 10/0DSC02299_grande (resized).jpgDSC02328_grande (resized).jpgDSC02327_grande (resized).jpgDSC02326_grande (resized).jpgthe larger areas are filled with flat brushes like the left side of the face, the mermaid's eye and the starry sky

    #27 6 days ago

    the followingDSC02332_grande (resized).jpgDSC02331_grande (resized).jpgDSC02330_grande (resized).jpgDSC02346_grande (resized).jpgDSC02345_grande (resized).jpgDSC02344_grande (resized).jpgDSC02351_grande (resized).jpgDSC02350_grande (resized).jpgDSC02349_grande (resized).jpgto follow, the end of the first stage

    #28 6 days ago
    Quoted from F-2NIRO:

    “ ...everything being done with a brush.
    at first, there is the transfer of the pins to the pencil (type HB) and then they are painted with the same size brushes, 5/0 and 10/0...”

    Beautiful way to restore a playfield .. 5/0 and 10/0 are my go to brushes for playfield restoration.

    #29 6 days ago

    This is just incredible work.

    #30 4 days ago
    Quoted from F-2NIRO:

    we made a "calque", I do not know the term in English

    'trace' is probably the closest.

    #31 3 days ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    'trace' is probably the closest.

    thanks for the technical termes, i think we can say " translucent paper" too ?
    it's finished for the first stage.
    i will put a coat to protect before continuing stage 2.space walkphase 1 (2) (resized).jpg

    space walkphase 1 (3) (resized).jpgspace walkphase 1 (4) (resized).jpgspace walkphase 1 (1) (resized).jpg
    the following ASAP

    #32 3 days ago
    Quoted from Frax:

    'trace' is probably the closest.

    Quoted from F-2NIRO:

    thanks for the technical termes, i think we can say " translucent paper" too ?

    [FR ON] Salut Franck, Traduire le terme "calque" n'est effectivement pas facile, parce que chez nous, on l'utilise à la fois pour désigner, à la fois le matériau (papier transparent), la méthode et même le résultat. Bref, on utilise un raccourci "familier" et c'est même devenu tellement naturel que dans Photoshop, les "layers" sont aussi traduits par "calques" alors que ca devrait être "couches". Pour ton dessin, on devrait plutôt dire "une esquisse réalisée sur papier calque", ce qui se traduirait par "a sketch made on tracing paper". C'est vrai, je te l'accorde, on ne parle pas comme ça dans la vraie vie [FR OFF]

    Hi Franck,

    Translating the term "calque" is actually not easy, because in France, it is used both to designate, at the same time, the material (translucent paper), the method (to calk) and even the result (a sketch).
    In short, we use a familiar shortcut and it even became so natural that in Photoshop, the "layers" are also translated by "calques" while it should be "couches".
    For your drawing, we should rather say "une esquisse réalisée sur papier calque", which would result in "a sketch made on tracing paper".
    That's right, I grant you, we do not talk like that in real life

    #33 2 days ago

    Merci pour cette info

    #34 2 days ago

    Lol, thank you. I don't know enough French to properly explain that, and Google wasn't being very helpful. That was confusing for me too, that 'calque' seemed to mean a bunch of different things.

    What's funny is "a sketch made on tracing paper" *is* perfectly serviceable English, even though it might sound ludicrous in translation.

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