First, check the fuses.

GI or feature lamps? If it's just GI, that doesn't usually mean much.

Next, check the pin out of the connectors that got mixed up. That can sometimes indicate what was fed where.

A2J1 (power supply)
1: +12vdc input (source)
2: GND
3: GND
4: +12vdc input (source)
5: +12vdc output
6: GND

A3J1 (Driver board)
1: GND
2: +5vdc input (source)
3: +20vdc input (source)
4: GND
5: +5dvc input (source)
6: +20vdc input (source)

I'm wondering if 20v got sent up through the ground connections, hitting all the boards. The wire on the ribbon cable that you indicated is the ground wire between the boards, so that leads me to believe that is what may have happened.

Worst case, most of the chips and polarized caps are toast, and maybe the transistors too. Probably all the boards will need repairs.

Best case--you're going to have to troubleshoot piece by piece as if it was a newly acquired dead machine. Start with measuring output voltage on the power supply, then moving onto the the MPU. LED blink codes for diagnostics will be limited, since DMD games largely rely on the DMD for game errors.

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys3/#led

Replace the fuses (with the correct values) and see what you get after that.

Those are the fuses for the display, power supply (which in turn, supplies voltage to all the boards), and feature lamps.

It really sucks not having local electronic shops. Always, always, before disassembly label every single connector and take pictures for extra incentive. Good luck to ya!!

For fuses.....try stereo stores [electronic retailers] , hardware stores and even appliance retailers/repair outlets . Standard sized and value fuses are usually on hand at most of these places.
Even marine outlets have them too.
Good luck. Tis a shame they never made the connectors unable to connect to other boards

Auto parts stores carry those fuses, and like Hawk said, those others.

"all lights come on"--feature lamps for GI? If it's GI, ignore it. It is diagnostically irrelevant here. That just means the power is on and has nothing to do with the circuit boards.

Did you measure the output voltages coming out of the power supply? If that isn't working properly, nothing will. You'll need some schematics handy to see which pins are which.

Auto parts stores usually have the 32v rated fuses. Better to use the 250v rated ones for applications in a house where 115v-120v is standard. I've found them at Lowe's & Home Depot.

Honestly..... you really fkd up sorry to say . You will spend more time and money trying to repair those boards than the actual game is worth if you cant repair yourself. Send out to be checked and start there. Needless to say what coils and other stuff got fried.

Ok, voltages are where they are supposed to be.

Unfortunately, for a completely dead machine with no boards showing any life, it's going to be very difficult to diagnose anything without proper diagnostic equipment.

I'm pretty sure you sent 22v to the ground plane of every board, which would have killed most, if not all, the chips, and possibly caps (since the voltage was going in backwards), and possibly some transistors.

If you're comfortable with board work, this won't be a quick fix. There is not extensive information on system 3 boards since they aren't as common as other systems, and they don't have too many problem areas that needed extensive documentation.

If you are not comfortable with board work, ask around with some of the guys who do board repairs. It probably won't be cheap, but they would have the right equipment.

Also, note that most repair shops/guys will not take boards that have obvious signs of being previously worked on. So, if you make attempts at repair and foul up the board, traces, pads, etc, you might be stuck.

I'm surprised the connectors fit the reverse way. From working on my Mario every connector seemed to only fit one way.

Oops, I misread that. Yes, if you are getting nothing out of the power supply, then address that first. It's a simple board, thankfully.

1) Inspect the back of the board for cracked solder joints or burnt/broken traces. If the surface looks wrinkled, that's normal--that's just the sealant.
2) Inspect the two capacitors. If they are bulging, leaking, or burnt, replace them.
3) test the output leg of the LM338K regulator directly (it's the trace that eventually connects to R2, C2, and J2-1)
4) If it is reading nothing, consider replacing it.
5) Leave J2 disconnected.
6) Test the output voltage and adjust the potentiometer so that the output is 5v +/- .03v
7) While the game is off, connect J2, turn on the game, and see what you get. Since there is now a load on the 5v, adjust the pot as necessary to get 5v +/- .03v

I think you probably got lucky and just smoked the power supply (you have no 5 volt which drives all the other boards), you wont know until you get the power supply working though. That power supply is extremely basic, I think I completely rebuilt mine for around $10 in parts.

You can buy a brand new plug and play replacement here- http://pbresource.com/boards.html#gtbsys3 or you can send yours out to be repaired. At $39.00, most repair guys will be more expensive than a new board.

One pin goes to ground.

At this point, I would try replacing the regulator. 22v coming up from ground was probably too much for it.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=%20LM338K

Those caps look ok. They're non polarized and they haven't cracked or popped apart, so they're probably fine.

If you are comfortable doing the rebuild, just go ahead and do everything. It will not take up much time, and really, at this point, it is probably a good idea to just do it since you already have it apart. I am willing to bet that you smoked that lm338, but with this part of the machine being so critical to the rest of the function, go ahead and rebuild it.

If you arent comfortable rebuilding it, go ahead and send it my way, and I will take care of it for you.

Can you post a photo?

The climbing to infinity is correct behavior. If your meter has no capacitance test function the process should be, discharge the cap, set meter to highest resistance setting, connect leads. You should see numbers, then infinity. Several videos online, watch one to double check yourself (and my advice! lol)

http://pbresource.com/eleccomp.html
Pinball Resource is the place to go for Gottlieb parts. Tell them you need capacitors C1 and C2 on the Rescue 911 power supply board. If you don't have a manual I suggest you get one from them.

It's possible. But what exactly do you mean by "nothing"? Blank screen? Flashes zero-some value-repeating?

The schematic should have a list of parts. I'll upload a photo of my Rock manual.

tmp_12859-20160917_13140958087849.jpg

All the components are on the parts list in the manual for the power supply.

C1 is .1uf 50v (ceramic axial cap)
C2 is 4.7uf 10v (ceramic axial cap)

Greatplainselectronics.com carries them. Components from PBR are usually more expensive.

Where did you buy the replacement LM338K and how much did you pay?

My bet is that you got a counterfeit LM338K part. There are a number of sellers with them at about the $2.50 mark (both Aliexpress, Ebay, and even Amazon). The Price for legit factory new parts is now almost $50:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/LM338KSTEEL-NOPB/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvu8NZDyZ4K0bykmGFCCERa

Many months back, it was around $25.00. The ones Ed sells at GPE at $9.00 are legit and are new old stock inventory purchased before many of the manufacturers stopped making TO-3 parts.

About a year ago, I purchased a couple of batches from different sources for the $2.00 mark and they were all counterfeit. I suspect they are actually remarked LM317Ks. They work as adjustable regulators but can only handle 1 amp or less. More than that and they fuse their internal conductors instantly. Some of the counterfeits I received had the same markings as yours in the photo (H:1027).

Circuit is pretty simple. If the resistors all check out okay, and the connections are solid, it should function. As was mentioned, don't worry about the caps as long as they are not shorted. You might see charge/discharge of the 4.7ufd but your meter isn't going to respond to the tiny 0.1ufd value.

Here is our old discussion of the counterfeit parts.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2013-has-been-a-bad-year-for-electronic-component-supplies/page/2#post-2601133

If you did not get your LM338K from a known reputable source, I suggest you rebuy and replace it again.

GPE = Great Plains Electronics.

Forceflow linked to it above. Buy with confidence.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=%20LM338K

I wouldn't spend $50 for the part either. We used to be able to buy them in quantity for under $8.00. But all good things must end. As I described in the other post, Instead of having to buy 2 LM338Ks for the application I was using them in, I was able to buy a small adjustable switching regulator PCB from china that handles 15 amps for around $12.00 shipped. It even runs a lot cooler. I also managed to buy a few originals off ebay for around $5.00 each but the seller obviously had old originals and a very limited number.

Your inside photo proves its a bootleg part. IF you look closely, I would bet you can see one of those tiny whiskers is fused open.

In your case, if you don't want to risk another $9 plus shipping purchase, you might want to consider the $39 option for a replacement that was listed above. Of course, keep in mind, if there are other shorted components on the other PCBs and you still have the power connectors connected, even a good regulator will shut down due to its internal over current protection.

Oh man... I did not like that discussion over there. Apocalyptic type stuff.

I am pretty sure the Bourn's 10 turn trim pots have a pattern to the leads so you probably didn't get it wrong.

The original LM338K is rated a 5 amps which is why it has multiple conductors inside. The counterfeit, if it was even a regulator (as opposed to a remarked cheap transistor,) could only handle 1 amp max.

Get a legit part and you should he okay.

Might be a good idea to open a dispute and/ore click the report link on the item ad report it as counterfeit.

The Amazon seller refunded the price and apologized. The eBay seller wanted them returned. $19.00 to return $25 in product. Instead, I left neg. Feedback and a warning. And they never took the auction down. So they really don't care who the rip off.