Finishing up my shop job on my STTNG and I'm blowing F107 which is 5 amp slo-blo g.i. fuse. The only thing I did with g.i. was to install new lamp sockets in my pop bumpers. So I'm thinking I got something wired wrong. The being said, would someone please take a picture or two to help me out? I think the issue has to do with the upper right pop where the white and green wires are involved.
thanks in advance!

_{Post edited by Solder_Splash: title change}

Thanks for the reply. Switch wires are fine. I just need see how the lamp sockets are wired.

Yes I think they will. Funny how things don't work when you get creative with your wiring
My bad for not documenting how they were wired before I pulled them. Might also help of I had a wiring diagram.
Thanks for your reply.

I'll definitely follow up. I'm in the home stretch and getting this thing back together. Hopefully I wI'll be destroying the Borg after assimilating some turkey tomorrow.

Ok so it looks like the pop bumper lights may have been a red herring. I got them wired correctly and F107 still blows. I've been lucky and have never experienced a g.i. short until now and this thing has got me stumped.
I went ahead and disconnected the pops illumination just to take them out of the equation.
With connector J121 connected my F107 5 amp sb blows immediately. I assume this means I have a short somewhere on the PF, correct?
I've done a visual on all gi in the string. Started removing bulbs and inspecting sockets but I don't seem to be getting anywhere.
Am I on the right track here or am I missing something?

The fuse does not blow if J121 is not connected. I will check the resistance between J121-5 and J121-10 later tonight and post my findings.

I will also mention that gi row#1 is out as well. Fuse F110 is good and I checked continuity from pin on J113 to fuse and pin on J121on the other side of fuse to eliminate it from being a connector issue. I suppose my next move here will be to check for 6.8 VAC on pin J121-7 as I chase this part of it. From looking at the wiring diagram it also appears that I can swap connectors J120 & J121. I never realized that (probably since I never had a gi issue before).

Thanks. That will probably be my next step.

So I measured the resistance between J121-10 and J121-5 and it seemed within the normal range as compared to readings I got on the other gi strings. Certainly not a dead short that would blow a fuse. I'm out of 5 amp Slo-blo's so I stick a standard 5 amp fuse in F107 and guess what? ALL my gi comes on and the fuse doesn't blow.
Last night I pulled the subway and VUK assemblies to give them a good cleaning. I'm thinking that whatever was causing the short was "fixed" when I pulled that stuff. I did find one bulb in string #4 that was burnt out so maybe the short was there? Who knows but either way I'm glad the issue is gone. I'm not maring this as "solved" until I have the rest of the game back together. Don't want to jinx myself
Thanks again for the advice.

Grrrrr! Now gi string #4 is out again. Fuse did not blow but now I only have .3v ac on pin J121-10

Thanks. Yeah the voltage is missing for that string. My thoughts right now lean towards a burnt trace somewhere in that circuit. I blew several fuses trying to eliminate the short. My guess is a trace took some of the stress and now I have open circuit. I'm going to step away for a day or so and just concentrate on putting up a new highscore.
When I get this bug worked out, I just might put the game up for trade or sale.
20141129_120207.jpg

Thanks Schwaggs. That should make tracking it down a lot easier. Now I just have to motivate myself to stop playing and pull the board. I'm thinking that even with all the GI strings working that the game is still way too dark with standard bulbs. I'll probably switc all the GI over to some type of LED bulb.

Ok so I got around to pulling the board. Connectors and header pins all look pretty good.
I buzzed all the traces as indicated in the zaza diagram found in the pinwiki link above. No broken/burnt traces. Of course not, that would have made things too easy.

Next I tested J115-5 for 7V AC. Voltage is present.

Then I tested the 2N5401 and resistors associated with Q16. Everything looked good there.

Lastly I tested the 74LS374 @U1 with my DMM as outlined on Pinwiki. Again everything thing looks OK here. I haven't hit it with the logic probe yet since the board is currently of the the game.

That leaves me with the triac at Q16. I'm pretty sure there's no way to test this other than replacing it.

Am I missing anything here?

Problem seems to be solved. I repinned j115 and J121 and now all my gi is back.
I doesn't make any sense since the circuit buzzed out but whatever.
As far as the short on the PF, a socket by the upper flipper had its tabs touching each other.
I must have bumped it when I pulled the that flipper at the start of the shop out.
I chased my tail for a day or two but I got it all sorted out

Thanks!
Nothing like a freshly shopped game. Put in a lot of time getting it done but worth the effort.
STTNGshopped out.jpg

Thanks man. It is a nice player's game for sure. The Treasure Cove process really brought the playfield back to life.