I guess this is up to you if you value having an original piece of paper that you can put in the manual or frame and hang on the wall. I don't have the original certificate for mine either (I bought a reproduction too). I would be more concerned with the condition of the game than anything else.

As far as the manuals are concerned, you can still find original gold manuals if you look around. It is available for download because there are several things different between the gold and standard, notably the flippers.

That's the price if it was a high-end restoration in mint condition.

If it's just your average TAF, then it's way over priced.

I haven't really seen a TAFG go for much more than a regular TAF. Maybe $1 or $2k more, but not several thousands more.

Condition is what really matters, for the most part.

Most of the TAFG's listed for $10k plus end up getting marked as unsold:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&ad_machine_key=3

TAF for comparison:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&ad_machine_key=2

Plus, someone could potentially convert a regular TAF into a TAFG, since there are only a few parts that would need to be changed out. Some regular TAFs even came with TAFG cabinets due to mix-ups at the factory. So, you have to be careful about checking what is or isn't a genuine TAFG, especially if you're paying a premium for one.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-862X-1

http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/spareparts/playfield-parts/pop-bumper-parts/pop-bumper-caps/complete-sets/bally-williams/addams-family-gold-bumpercap-set.html

Yep you can turn a standard into a Gold without too much problem. Id look to make sure the plaque is on the front of the cabinet, it has the fliptronics board and HV cutout switch. Most probably wouldn't go that far to dupe an unsuspecting buyer.

Well, both TAF and TAFG have a fliptronics board. I'm not sure when they switched over to from version 1 to version 2, though. I've seen TAFG's with version 1 installed as well as some with version 2. Version 2 is backwards compatible, so you should be able to use it to replace any version 1 boards.

TAF's don't have an interlock switch? I almost thought they did.

Example plaque:

http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=21&picno=20798

The Thing ramp? They are all silver--it's just steel.

A lot of folks throw decals over those. However, TAF has a red box, and TAFG has a gold box. The gold thing box is hard to get, and if that's not gold and red instead, that's usually a big clue that it's not a genuine TAFG. The bookcase is blue on a TAF, and gold on a TAFG. gold bookcase parts are available, but if it's blue, it's another obvious sign that it's a regular TAF.

Manuals go missing all the time. I would worry more about the parts in the actual game, rather than separate manuals or paperwork.

Can you upload some of the photos of the game here?

I really suspect that it's just a regular TAF, considering that decals were added to the bookcase and thing box. Most TAFG owners don't usually seem to do that to the TAFG gold parts.

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The crossover wire ramp is gold on TAFGs.

Oh, I was thinking of the thing ramp between the two entrances of the plastic ramp.

Yes, the wire ramp is another clue.

That one looks genuine to me. I still think the asking price is too high, though.

The crossover wire ramp and the wire guard along the top edge of the bottom arch are brass plated on TAFGs. I don't see that on the pictures in the link. I agree, it's too much for that particular machine. Not sure why people have to plaster stickers on Thing's box and the floor of the bookcase. It's just that much more to have to remove.

The apron itself should also be gold. The one pictured in the ad looks like it's from the original run. Ask to see a picture of the serial number sticker. TAFG's will have the newer style black on white computer generated stickers, versus the original run that were blue and white. It's possible that someone had an original gold machine, but then swapped out some of the gold parts out for original run parts. I myself am not a big fan of the gold pop bumper caps and prefer the multicolor original style.

Regular TAF aprons have chains that are clearly a gray color. The chains on the apron for this one look gold to me, though the paint might not be fully intact.

Looking at it again, it looks as though you are correct. The lighting makes it hard to discern, but it looks more gold than it does silver. Also the serial number sticker on the front of the cabinet is in the correct position, and is the right size, even though there is no longer anything visible on it. It's a 3 slot coin door meaning that it was an export game, and most games under #500 went outside the USA, with the exception of the machines taken by the design team and other WMS people at the time, so that also appears to be correct.

I'm not sure why someone would just change out the gold metal to silver, unless it got tarnished at some point where they decided the silver would look better?

Maybe the welds were damaged and it needed to be replaced.

Another subtle thing to check is to see if it has a modular computer style power cord for the back of the cabinet? I think they changed to that for the gold run, but the originals had a pull out cord that's permanently attached?

It does have the extra ball buy in button under the shooter rod.

The original brass plating on most wireform ramps is very thin, so if someone polishing trying to remove oxidation or corrosion gets carried away it will easily come off. Not saying that's the case here but just a thought

I think the gold production run came in 1995, 2-3 years after the original run and hense the system and hardware differences everyone is referencing

The "half and half" games were built in between the 2 runs. I'm not sure if early or later, but those hybrid games are actually the most rare of TAF machines. I've owned all 3 types and those look the best in my opinion, with the gold cabinet and standard colorful playfield plastic pieces.

Just FYI that's called an IEC jack or plug. If you're sitting down I can tell you a little story about them in the world of High end audio (my other hobby) We often use IEC power cords that cost a much as an entire Pin or more! And the power conditioner I use to plug everything into costs as much a NIB Pin, and actually makes a huge difference. Anyone want to buy a $5K power cord to put on their Pin? Who knows how cleaner power may up your personal best score!