(Topic ID: 170486)

Reproduction Aprons

By brenna98

5 years ago


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  • 873 posts
  • 230 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Miguel351
  • Topic is favorited by 112 Pinsiders

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Stern Elec Apron 2 (resized).jpg
Stern Elec Apron 1 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
left.PDF (PDF preview)
4AE3E967-C12E-4AA0-AA9F-83B41916F59C (resized).jpeg
Untitled-1.pdf (PDF preview)
F8795644-3E14-4B09-9124-9BF55AC2ECF1 (resized).jpeg
Eight-Ball-Deluxe-white-1981-Pinball-Apron (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20211124-205219_Chrome (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20211124-205514_Chrome (resized).jpg
70s bally apron (resized).jpg
Full Playfield (resized).jpeg
8da29864ef14fd2ac6a20c9ad6d4321906e44948 (resized).jpg
1C4B1D54-2A8B-4B4D-8186-1B466564BA81 (resized).jpeg
69218F57-AF18-47D1-A1CB-EC1462EDA4DA (resized).jpeg
2B1CDAF3-C3C9-4D8A-9A90-1D03C92F767F (resized).png

There are 873 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 18.
#851 4 months ago

The kerning is one of the issues with those apron decals; most of the fonts are also not true to original. Plenty of shortcuts used to make those decals.

#852 4 months ago

Does anyone know where can I get decals for my Sorcerer apron?

#853 4 months ago
Quoted from tandem2:

The kerning is one of the issues with those apron decals; most of the fonts are also not true to original. Plenty of shortcuts used to make those decals.

This is just sad to me, as a graphic designer. These kinds of details are immediately noticed by even the untrained human eye/brain and need to be as close to perfect as possible so as not to distract from or "sour" the whole piece. It should be also said that they can be some of the easiest things to do in graphics. People will notice that long before they ever notice how the upper right chevron is thinner than it is the left side. In fact, it looks like the black screen's registration is slightly off, too.

This early stuff is pretty easy, too. It's just sad. If there was a job available in it and someone could get me nice scans and overall dimensions, I'd remake the apron artwork for every pin ever made up through 2000-ish. And I don't use tracing programs... TAF took me well over 40 hours to perfect. I don't mess around.

#854 4 months ago
Quoted from prenfrow01:

Does anyone know if Eight Ball Deluxe repro aprons are available anywhere?

I have a really nice high quality vinyl apron EBD decal I'd sell.
NOT the classic arcade junk

It is the original white color like in the flyer.
https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=762&picno=4182&zoom=1
Most 1981 EBD's apron color is white cream due to aging / sunderization (yellowing). Best to sand off old paint and paint / powder coat white again before applying the decal.

Eight-Ball-Deluxe-white-1981-Pinball-Apron (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#855 4 months ago

OK. I'm looking for Rocking horse crap I know, but has anyone got a really nice fathom apron I could buy, or a set of the quality Fathom apron decals.

#856 4 months ago
Quoted from Grefla:

OK. I'm looking for Rocking horse crap I know, but has anyone got a really nice fathom apron I could buy, or a set of the quality Fathom apron decals.

How about a fathom apron magnet?
Pm me if you want a picture of it.

#857 4 months ago
Quoted from Grefla:

OK. I'm looking for Rocking horse crap I know, but has anyone got a really nice fathom apron I could buy, or a set of the quality Fathom apron decals.

I created this forum with a list of sites that sell apron decals. I believe that PPS and Marcos are buying their decals from Classic Arcades (EBay seller), and some European sites as well. Make sure to look closely at the colors as some people have issues with the Classic Arcades overlays and decal colors.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/apron-decal-options

#858 4 months ago

Please someone make the classic stern apron decals!

#859 4 months ago
Quoted from bluespin:

I created this forum with a list of sites that sell apron decals. I believe that PPS and Marcos are buying their decals from Classic Arcades (EBay seller), and some European sites as well. Make sure to look closely at the colors as some people have issues with the Classic Arcades overlays and decal colors.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/apron-decal-options

Yeah like the EBD apron decal for sale above. If you are going to all the trouble of making the freakin' decals you should at least get the colors right. And right means the way the real machine is.. not some obscure prototype wet dream from a flyer that never existed in the real world. That's the reason the EBD repop aprons sucked too. All that work just to screw the pooch on the colors.

#860 4 months ago
Quoted from bluespin:

I created this forum with a list of sites that sell apron decals. I believe that PPS and Marcos are buying their decals from Classic Arcades (EBay seller), and some European sites as well. Make sure to look closely at the colors as some people have issues with the Classic Arcades overlays and decal colors.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/apron-decal-options

Thanks, I have only heard bad feedback for the classic arcades stuff, incorrect fonts, incorrect size of stripes etc. I believe there are some good repro aprons out there as per this forum thread - but they aren't being produced any more, and the pinball rescue guys aren't making them either.

Something to do with the guy who owns the copyright to Bally I believe???

#861 4 months ago
Quoted from Grefla:

Thanks, I have only heard bad feedback for the classic arcades stuff, incorrect fonts, incorrect size of stripes etc. I believe there are some good repro aprons out there as per this forum thread - but they aren't being produced any more, and the pinball rescue guys aren't making them either.
Something to do with the guy who owns the copyright to Bally I believe???

Yes, Pinball Rescue stopped making/selling the Bally decals long before they closed shop due to the copyright issues. It's a bummer since I bought a few from them and like them. I still have 2 EBD apron decals from them in my parts hoard.

#862 4 months ago

In the absence of decent decals, if you wanted to scan your old apron, clean-up and provide the file to a print shop as a one-off for yourself... what product do you ask them to print it on?

Maybe this has been discussed before? For a Bally decal for example, what thickness, type of adhesive, paper/inks, coatings?

Thanks.

1 week later
#863 3 months ago
Quoted from emsrph:

In the absence of decent decals, if you wanted to scan your old apron, clean-up and provide the file to a print shop as a one-off for yourself... what product do you ask them to print it on?
Maybe this has been discussed before? For a Bally decal for example, what thickness, type of adhesive, paper/inks, coatings?
Thanks.

Just messing around and trying to learn Photoshop. That software is powerful but has a steep learning curve. Think I have the shooter gauge close. The other pieces look a little easier..

Anyone have some suggestions for the decal type to get printed to make my own apron? Thanks.
F8795644-3E14-4B09-9124-9BF55AC2ECF1 (resized).jpeg

#864 3 months ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Just messing around and trying to learn Photoshop. That software is powerful but has a steep learning curve. Think I have the shooter gauge close. The other pieces look a little easier..
Anyone have some suggestions for the decal type to get printed to make my own apron? Thanks.

If you have access to it, I'd actually recommend using Illustrator for this kind of stuff. As you can see in your picture, the edges aren't sharp as Photoshop uses raster images while Illustrator uses vector art. How they're different is that vector art is scalable with no loss in resolution. The same can't be said for raster images. Photoshop's print quality is determinant on many different settings being maxed out to ensure crisper lines, but that also means huge file sizes.

If you start learning Illustrator, you'll be learning by drawing with lines and shapes that will stay nice and clean regardless of who prints them, as long as they print them as vector files and not raster images. PDF's retain vector image integrity perfectly, and most all printers can print PDF files just fine. Here's a quick copy of the graphic you did in PS, but done in Illustrator. It's saved as a PDF to retain its clarity. Took me about 10 minutes to do. It's not 100% accurate since I was just working from your screenshot. Once you get good at Illustrator, you'll be able to churn out stuff this fast, too. A lot of EM stuff is nice and easy like this. Untitled-1.pdf

Once you have a finished artwork file, and it's sized correctly, you'll save it to a PDF. I would clean the old artwork off the apron as best you can and leave just the main color on it. Depending on how the artwork was printed on the apron, it could just wipe off with some light solvent(I know it does on some 90's B/W games!) or if you have to sand it off, you can repaint it or you could even possibly have it powder coated, if you want. Then, depending on what kind of printer you have, you should buy home-printable waterslide decal paper. Yes, the stuff they use on model cars; you can make whatever you want, for yourself! They make it in white and clear, but I'm guessing your apron is white, so the clear paper should suffice. However, the white would be fine to use as well. You could even get a sheet of both and see which ones work better, if you'd like.

Here's a decent page describing most of the brands and their pros and cons:
https://www.tomostudio.com/best-waterslide-decal-paper/

Once you have settled on the proper decal paper type, printed them, and applied them, you'll shoot a couple coats of clear over the whole apron and once that's settled and cured, it should look damn near factory!

#865 3 months ago
Quoted from Miguel351:

If you have access to it, I'd actually recommend using Illustrator for this kind of stuff. As you can see in your picture, the edges aren't sharp as Photoshop uses raster images while Illustrator uses vector art. How they're different is that vector art is scalable with no loss in resolution. The same can't be said for raster images. Photoshop's print quality is determinant on many different settings being maxed out to ensure crisper lines, but that also means huge file sizes.
If you start learning Illustrator, you'll be learning by drawing with lines and shapes that will stay nice and clean regardless of who prints them, as long as they print them as vector files and not raster images. PDF's retain vector image integrity perfectly, and most all printers can print PDF files just fine. Here's a quick copy of the graphic you did in PS, but done in Illustrator. It's saved as a PDF to retain its clarity. Took me about 10 minutes to do. It's not 100% accurate since I was just working from your screenshot. Once you get good at Illustrator, you'll be able to churn out stuff this fast, too. A lot of EM stuff is nice and easy like this. [quoted image]
Once you have a finished artwork file, and it's sized correctly, you'll save it to a PDF. I would clean the old artwork off the apron as best you can and leave just the main color on it. Depending on how the artwork was printed on the apron, it could just wipe off with some light solvent(I know it does on some 90's B/W games!) or if you have to sand it off, you can repaint it or you could even possibly have it powder coated, if you want. Then, depending on what kind of printer you have, you should buy home-printable waterslide decal paper. Yes, the stuff they use on model cars; you can make whatever you want, for yourself! They make it in white and clear, but I'm guessing your apron is white, so the clear paper should suffice. However, the white would be fine to use as well. You could even get a sheet of both and see which ones work better, if you'd like.
Here's a decent page describing most of the brands and their pros and cons:
https://www.tomostudio.com/best-waterslide-decal-paper/
Once you have settled on the proper decal paper type, printed them, and applied them, you'll shoot a couple coats of clear over the whole apron and once that's settled and cured, it should look damn near factory!

Thank you Miguel351 for those details. Vector is a huge improvement in sharpness. I'll need to learn and move forward with that format.

Wish I could upvote your post more than once! It’ll take me awhile but here’s the before for eventual comparison:

4AE3E967-C12E-4AA0-AA9F-83B41916F59C (resized).jpeg
#866 3 months ago

I's slowly recoloring the apron(then fix it edges) and fit two parts into one
and see if i can print it. fingers crossed

anyone smarter then me care to make these

left.PDF
#867 3 months ago
Quoted from rvdv:

anyone smarter then me care to make these [quoted image]

If you can print an apron decal with “s, inc.” you’ll be the smartest person to ever print classic Stern apron decals.

#868 3 months ago

I have this if anybody wants it. not guaranteed to be perfect, made from my Dracula.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dpah54xr2hvmyfn/Stern%20apron.ai?dl=0

pasted_image (resized).png
#869 3 months ago
Quoted from rvdv:

I's slowly recoloring the apron(then fix it edges) and fit two parts into one
and see if i can print it. fingers crossed
anyone smarter then me care to make these [quoted image]

I made a scan of a similar repro decal I bought a few years ago. I'm not good with graphics and decals maybe someone here can clean it up and make something of it.
Stern Elec Apron 1 (resized).jpg
Stern Elec Apron 2 (resized).jpg

#870 3 months ago
Quoted from 20eyes:

I made a scan of a similar repro decal I bought a few years ago. I'm not good with graphics and decals maybe someone here can clean it up and make something of it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

If someone takes on this project, please add the missing text in the manufacturer’s title. The name is Stern Electronics, Inc., not Stern Electronic. That missing text on the Pinball Rescue decals has always bothered a lot of collectors, but they were the only option out there.

#871 3 months ago

The R in “FOR” doesn’t have a straight leg either — compared to the scan above. Need someone obsessive about these details to work on it.

#872 3 months ago
Quoted from dr_nybble:

The R in “FOR” doesn’t have a straight leg either — compared to the scan above. Need someone obsessive about these details to work on it.

I’m not sure why people use premade fonts instead of tracing the original lettering

#873 3 months ago
Quoted from radium:

I’m not sure why people use premade fonts instead of tracing the original lettering

What a lot of lazy graphic artists do is either use a website or special software to find a font that matches as close as possible to the letters they're trying to reproduce. But, in doing so, they typically fail to check every single letter to be sure they're all accurate. They find one that's about 90% correct and call it good. Well what happens over time is as all the original examples go away either by people restoring and using the readily available bad artwork, by trying to fix the artwork they've got(which can result in minor errors here and there), or by games that just "leave the earth"(get thrown away, parted out, or left in a barn for decades and slowly wither away), the original version of the artwork can get lost. As people just keep making copies of copies, you get what I call "design drift". An effort needs to be made to get it right the first time. Sure, your final product is fairly cheap and you don't make as much on each sale compared to the man hours spent recreating the graphics, but at least you've made them correctly and preserved said art for posterity. What's really sad is a lot of times when you're laying out artwork you're reproducing, you put the new stuff on top of the scanned image of the old stuff. Things like the leg on the R of "FOR" should've stuck out like a sore thumb to the guy working on that artwork. Of course, so should have the "S, INC.", but you get what I'm saying.

Or, you could be like PPS and just simply OWN all the factory original screens for all the artwork. I know he's got the screens for most all the B/W playfields, but I don't know if that includes apron art.

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