Mine is a little bit beat up so for a decent price I'd be in for one.

I’m interested in 2 of these

put me down for one, pm me payment info

Same for me.

Put me down for 2 please!

I took you hand sketch and recreated it using AutoCAD. A few of your dimensions didn't quite add up so I tried to interpret (re-interpret) them the best I could. This pdf version, if printed on a 8 1/2 x 11 page should be full size but that's why I have the 1" witness lines to check against. If this looks good, I can provide you with a file format (iges, dxf, AutoCAD) that the fabricators can use to program their CNC cutting equipment with.

El_Dorado_Ball_arch.pdf

Shoot me a PM and I'll send you the dxf version. I'm stuck working from home right now so it was a fun diversion to create it.

I'll jump in for two.

You should have at least 20 made.
I don't think you will have any problems selling the other 19 with all the variants of that game out there. I've done four copies of "Gold Strike" alone in the last few years. In each case I had to reuse the original part after smoothing and polishing it. It would be a good idea though to make sure the proper material is used to make them. You want them to be at least OEM grade. For home use games, they'd last forever.

The 304 stainless should be adequate for a home use application. It is not quite as strong as some standard carbon steels but those would be susceptible to rusting if not plated. Ideally, you should use polished 304 material (even if it is slightly more expensive) to avoid having to polish each part by hand or live with the dull, natural finish.

The OEM part was most likely stamped steel 1010 cold rolled sheet. Typical hardness would be “Rockwell B” 60 with a yield strength of 44,000 psi.
304 stainless cold rolled sheet typical hardness would be Rockwell B 70 with a yield strength of 34,000 psi.

I’m assuming your looking at 16 ga (0.060”) material.

So what does this mean?

The sheet arch rail is dead soft as compared to the pinball (about as hard as you can get for steel).

Most ball arches I’ve seen (including the OP’s) have a burr or deformed metal where the contact pressure is max. This means that the arch metal is both wearing and yielding. Think of yielding like pushing your finger into playdoh. The playdoh just moves out of the way of your finger pressure. In the pinball v. arch case the rate of movement is extremely small for each hit.

In the OP’s photo there are two deformed spots (well probably more). The reason is that the ball is impacting the curved surface and rebounding in a straight line directly to the second deformed spot and so on. Eventually the ball will start a true roll along the curved arch.
So yield strength is important. 1010 stamped steel is 33% stronger than 304 SS.

The slightly elevated hardness of 304 over 1010 sheet is insignificant as compared to the pinball which is ultra-hard.

On the other hand most modern ramps are brushed stainless steel. What I don’t know is the stainless steel grade. 304 SS is the entry level and most widely available grade. There are many other SS grades that are harder and stronger.

Also:
The 304 stainless will most likely need to be a #4 brushed finish

The 1010 carbon steel will need to be chrome plated or at least painted.

Even with water jetting the ball rolling surface may need sanding.

All that said, 304 will most likely be fine for a home use application. For a game on route, maybe not.

I'd be in for 2.

304SS is OK for me. Please confirm the final gauge matches the gauge of the original.

Working with fabricators regularly, I have two comments.
1. If they are going to copy the original, be sure they don't copy the dents.
2. I suggest you have them do a sample of the design they plan to produce and test fit it in your game and compare to the original for accuracy before releasing the full run.

Please count me in for 2.

I'm happy to buff up mine. 2B is good for me.

What is the price differential for the #8 finish. If not that much more that would be the easiest and closest to original.

If notably expensive I would be OK to live with the 2B which is the most common you will find with stainless plate/gauge material.

I'd be in for one!

I'll buff it if I have to. No big deal. If it is only a few bucks difference, I'd opt for the pre-polished.

BTW, up my order to 2 units instead of one.

I would be in for 1

Awesome, thanks for doing this!

I’m in for 2 , I have gold strike/ Eldorado
To restore

Thanks!

I’m looking for wade Krause Eldorado playfield, Hes going to run it soon

Let me know

I’m up for mirror finish highest grade

Pinball rescue sell a plastics set for El Dorado and included with this is 2x plastic versions of this. #8 would look much nicer though.

I almost forgot. I'll take (3).

2B finish is fine for me.... top of the play field...under a plastic...no one will notice.

Doug D.

I'd be up for the #2 finish. I can deburr and polish as needed.

I agree and assume those that can work on a pinball machine can polish a piece of metal, or know someone who can. Don't make this order a chore for yourself.