(Topic ID: 267091)

Repro El Dorado top arch track. They’re here!


By jasonspoint28

39 days ago



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  • 138 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by jasonspoint28
  • Topic is favorited by 8 Pinsiders

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There are 138 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 39 days ago

I’ve been looking into what to do with the arch track for my Gold Strike and following some Pinside advise I contacted a local water jetting company. Here’s the price breakdown for parts. One would cost $64, but ten would only be $9.70 each.
C72130D6-64B9-4641-9E5F-4073A9BBA400 (resized).jpeg

Edit: here’s the running list of people requesting arches.

Me 1
GSones 2
tandem2 2
boilerman 2
Tyamry 1
Phillips88 2
mojonitro 2
MikeO 2
Pinballer73 2
Kingpin22 1
okletsgo 1
whitey 2
nsduprr 3
midniight 1
gameroomfan 1
Mikala 2
dmarston 1
Zavadosa 1
bicyclenut 1
Bee-barf 1
firefighter 1
MarkG 1
paulace 2
JAG94 2
scampcamp 1
snextime 4
DanT 1
jrpinball 2

Total 45

If I forgot you, let me know.

#2 39 days ago

Here’s my original. Rather beat up.

I was hoping that I could get about 9 other people interested in one, so we can keep the cost down to $10, maybe $15 with shipping.
F8B6F971-5E89-4548-80F1-6F82FA192472 (resized).jpeg044D407C-ED46-4C4B-BFF8-2BFEC5C614A8 (resized).jpeg

#3 39 days ago

Here’s the drawing I made for the water jetting company.

HPSCAN_20200423170442828.pdf
#4 39 days ago

Mine is a little bit beat up so for a decent price I'd be in for one.

#5 39 days ago

I think $15 is pretty good. If 20 people were interested, price would be under $7, so I guess maybe $12 with shipping.

#6 39 days ago

I’m interested in 2 of these

#7 39 days ago

I would think the part would be used in all the El Dorado variants like Solar City, Target Alpha, Gold Strike, Lucky Strike, Canada Dry, and maybe even City of Gold. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

#8 39 days ago

put me down for one, pm me payment info

#9 39 days ago
Quoted from boilerman:

put me down for one, pm me payment info

Same for me.

#10 39 days ago

Put me down for 2 please!

#11 39 days ago

Thanks for the responses, I’ll start a list and get the manufacturing started. Tell your friends, the more that are made, the less they will cost.

#12 39 days ago

I took you hand sketch and recreated it using AutoCAD. A few of your dimensions didn't quite add up so I tried to interpret (re-interpret) them the best I could. This pdf version, if printed on a 8 1/2 x 11 page should be full size but that's why I have the 1" witness lines to check against. If this looks good, I can provide you with a file format (iges, dxf, AutoCAD) that the fabricators can use to program their CNC cutting equipment with.

El_Dorado_Ball_arch.pdf
#13 39 days ago
Quoted from GSones:

I took you hand sketch and recreated it using AutoCAD. A few of your dimensions didn't quite add up so I tried to interpret (re-interpret) them the best I could. This pdf version, if printed on a 8 1/2 x 11 page should be full size but that's why I have the 1" witness lines to check against. If this looks good, I can provide you with a file format (iges, dxf, AutoCAD) that the fabricators can use to program their CNC cutting equipment with.[quoted image]

Holy smokes, that’s exactly what I need! I tried to download the trial version of AutoCAD and it failed (or I failed), hence the hand drawn sketch.

I think my printer may be 0.001” large, but it’s very close. I cut out the shape from the print and laid the part on top, and then laid the paper on top of the part. They look extremely close, check the pics. The guy from the water jetting place said a .dfx would be good.

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#14 39 days ago

Shoot me a PM and I'll send you the dxf version. I'm stuck working from home right now so it was a fun diversion to create it.

#15 39 days ago

The quote I got was for 304 Stainless steel. Would that be the appropriate metal for this part, or should it be something else? My original part is quite magnetic. Would 304 stand up to the pounding it takes from the ball, or is there something better suited for this application?

#16 38 days ago

I'll jump in for two.

#17 38 days ago

You should have at least 20 made.
I don't think you will have any problems selling the other 19 with all the variants of that game out there. I've done four copies of "Gold Strike" alone in the last few years. In each case I had to reuse the original part after smoothing and polishing it. It would be a good idea though to make sure the proper material is used to make them. You want them to be at least OEM grade. For home use games, they'd last forever.

#18 38 days ago

The 304 stainless should be adequate for a home use application. It is not quite as strong as some standard carbon steels but those would be susceptible to rusting if not plated. Ideally, you should use polished 304 material (even if it is slightly more expensive) to avoid having to polish each part by hand or live with the dull, natural finish.

#19 38 days ago

The OEM part was most likely stamped steel 1010 cold rolled sheet. Typical hardness would be “Rockwell B” 60 with a yield strength of 44,000 psi.
304 stainless cold rolled sheet typical hardness would be Rockwell B 70 with a yield strength of 34,000 psi.

I’m assuming your looking at 16 ga (0.060”) material.

So what does this mean?

The sheet arch rail is dead soft as compared to the pinball (about as hard as you can get for steel).

Most ball arches I’ve seen (including the OP’s) have a burr or deformed metal where the contact pressure is max. This means that the arch metal is both wearing and yielding. Think of yielding like pushing your finger into playdoh. The playdoh just moves out of the way of your finger pressure. In the pinball v. arch case the rate of movement is extremely small for each hit.

In the OP’s photo there are two deformed spots (well probably more). The reason is that the ball is impacting the curved surface and rebounding in a straight line directly to the second deformed spot and so on. Eventually the ball will start a true roll along the curved arch.
So yield strength is important. 1010 stamped steel is 33% stronger than 304 SS.

The slightly elevated hardness of 304 over 1010 sheet is insignificant as compared to the pinball which is ultra-hard.

On the other hand most modern ramps are brushed stainless steel. What I don’t know is the stainless steel grade. 304 SS is the entry level and most widely available grade. There are many other SS grades that are harder and stronger.

Also:
The 304 stainless will most likely need to be a #4 brushed finish

The 1010 carbon steel will need to be chrome plated or at least painted.

Even with water jetting the ball rolling surface may need sanding.

All that said, 304 will most likely be fine for a home use application. For a game on route, maybe not.

#20 38 days ago

I'd be in for 2.

304SS is OK for me. Please confirm the final gauge matches the gauge of the original.

#21 38 days ago

My piece has a thickness is 0.050”, which corresponds with 18 gauge. Thanks for all the responses, such great info. I’ll take the original to the water jetting place and see if he can match it.

#22 38 days ago
Quoted from jasonspoint28:

My piece has a thickness is 0.050”, which corresponds with 18 gauge. Thanks for all the responses, such great info. I’ll take the original to the water jetting place and see if he can match it.

Working with fabricators regularly, I have two comments.
1. If they are going to copy the original, be sure they don't copy the dents.
2. I suggest you have them do a sample of the design they plan to produce and test fit it in your game and compare to the original for accuracy before releasing the full run.

#23 38 days ago

I gave the fabricator a call and spoke with him about what metal to use. 304 is probably the choice that makes the most sense, but he’s stuck on a 2b (matte) finish because that’s what he typically uses. I asked about a #8 mirror finish, but he said it would be more expensive, harder to get, and the cutting process would damage the finish.

75E97D14-57B1-40A9-BBE0-DC4639112767 (resized).jpeg
#24 38 days ago

I see 3 options here, maybe more.

1-go with 2b for lowest price and each individual purchaser would be responsible for polishing to their desired level.

2-go with 2b, but I could polish all parts to a mirror finish. I would have to increase the price for my time and polishing materials.

3-convince fab shop to use #8, which increases price and would still need some level of polishing.

#25 38 days ago
Quoted from GSones:

The 304 stainless should be adequate for a home use application. It is not quite as strong as some standard carbon steels but those would be susceptible to rusting if not plated. Ideally, you should use polished 304 material (even if it is slightly more expensive) to avoid having to polish each part by hand or live with the dull, natural finish.

I think I agree with you on this, I should have another conversation with the fab guy about #8.

#26 38 days ago

Please count me in for 2.

#27 38 days ago

I'm happy to buff up mine. 2B is good for me.

#28 38 days ago

What is the price differential for the #8 finish. If not that much more that would be the easiest and closest to original.

If notably expensive I would be OK to live with the 2B which is the most common you will find with stainless plate/gauge material.

#29 38 days ago

I’ll call him again on Monday about the finishes and additional cost. I wanted to get a bit of feedback from you guys first.

#30 38 days ago

I'd be in for one!

#31 38 days ago

I'll buff it if I have to. No big deal. If it is only a few bucks difference, I'd opt for the pre-polished.

BTW, up my order to 2 units instead of one.

#32 38 days ago

I would be in for 1

#33 38 days ago

Cripes alfrighty, I’m up to 17 requests already! I should order more than 20 for sure. I’ll give it a week or so before ordering to give people some time to get their request in. Also, it will take at least a few days to get the drawing and original part sent to the fab shop, have them cut a sample, and send it back to me for approval.

#34 38 days ago

Awesome, thanks for doing this!

#35 38 days ago

Ya, you betcha! I started out just trying to get one made for myself, but it’s way more cost effective to make a bunch. Plus I get to help out others and make lots of great games even better. Win, win, win!

#36 38 days ago

I’m in for 2 , I have gold strike/ Eldorado
To restore

Thanks!

#37 38 days ago

I’m looking for wade Krause Eldorado playfield, Hes going to run it soon

Let me know

#38 38 days ago

I’m up for mirror finish highest grade

#39 38 days ago
Quoted from whitey:

I’m up for mirror finish highest grade

That’s what I’m gonna shoot for.

#40 38 days ago

Pinball rescue sell a plastics set for El Dorado and included with this is 2x plastic versions of this. #8 would look much nicer though.

#41 37 days ago
Quoted from kimbleseven:

Pinball rescue sell a plastics set for El Dorado and included with this is 2x plastic versions of this. #8 would look much nicer though.

Ah, I’ve seen those for sale and was wondering why they were plastic.

#42 37 days ago

I almost forgot. I'll take (3).

2B finish is fine for me.... top of the play field...under a plastic...no one will notice.

Doug D.

#43 36 days ago

Just a little bump.

#44 36 days ago

Hi , may I purchase one ?

#45 35 days ago
Quoted from midniight:

Hi , may I purchase one ?

Sure, I’ll put you on my list and keep you updated about the fabrication and price when I get more information.

#46 35 days ago

So, here’s the info from the water jetter about using polished stainless. Doesn’t look good.

Does anyone know if laser cutting is a better option than water jetting for mirror finish?

I’m thinking of looking into what the local tech college can do for me once they open again.

0B4D9E8F-CAB2-4A12-8609-BBEBDC12CC53 (resized).jpeg4C7984A9-BFD8-4BFD-A1DB-446CC8D45128 (resized).jpeg
#47 35 days ago

Here’s the matte #2 finish quote for comparison.

2ACF55DE-A586-4FBF-9035-06D5F42C8DB0 (resized).jpeg
#48 35 days ago

I also checked into pricing for a sheet of stainless. The local distributor only offers #2, which would cost me $165 for a 4’x4’ sheet.

Its starting to look like getting these parts cut from a sheet of polished stainless is a pipe dream.

Any thoughts?

#49 35 days ago

I'd be up for the #2 finish. I can deburr and polish as needed.

#50 35 days ago

I agree and assume those that can work on a pinball machine can polish a piece of metal, or know someone who can. Don't make this order a chore for yourself.

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